This video demonstrates the process of building an elevated garden bed with a hinged cover, which serves as protection against pests. The primary pests in this case are birds. The video also provides a step-by-step guide on how to create a hinged hoop cover for a raised bed garden, which can be referred to as a hoophouse, cloche cover, or hinged low tunnel.
To create a hinged hoophouse for a raised bed garden, start by preparing a wooden box that was originally used for storing vegetables. Seal and insulate the box, then cut 2in x 2in x 8ft boards to size. Build the garden cover frame structure, attach chicken wire, and install hinges and barrel bolts.
To create a hinged garden cover for raised beds, create two rectangles out of 2×3 lumber so that they rest perfectly on the raised bed when laid on top. This beginner-friendly project allows you to protect your plants from pests, weather conditions, and extend their lifespan. This DIY garden bed cover with fence is perfect for those looking to protect their precious raised garden beds from animals.
📹 How To Build A Hinged MULTI-USE Garden Bed Cover!
HEY GUYS! Today I’m showing you how to build this multi-use garden bed cover! Perfect for chicken owners as well! This fits …
Should you cover raised beds?
Winter protection is essential for gardens, especially in areas with snowfall. Experts recommend covering garden beds with thick or plastic to protect sensitive plants from damage, soil erosion, nutrient depletion, and harmful weed growth. Covering all gardens, including trees, shrubs, and perennials, is beneficial. For sensitive plants, mulch or burlap can help survive winter, while roses should be covered with burlap. For vegetable gardens, harvest cool weather crops and cover them after harvesting. This helps prevent soil erosion, nutrient depletion, and harmful weed growth.
What should you not put in a raised bed?
Raised beds are ideal for growing a wide variety of edible plants, but not all plants can or should be grown in them. Some plants grow too large for raised beds, such as potatoes, asparagus, artichokes, rhubarb, corn, wheat, rice, and winter squash. Raised beds can be challenging to maintain due to the need for ladders, which can be dangerous for harvesting plants. It is essential to consider the specific needs of each plant when choosing a raised bed, as not all plants can thrive in raised beds. Therefore, it is essential to carefully consider the type of plant and the space available for each plant to ensure the best growth and care.
How do you put a bottom on a raised garden bed?
Wide-mesh hardware cloth, stainless steel mesh, landscape fabric, burlap sack, or newspaper/cardboard can be used to line the bottom of raised garden beds. These materials keep weeds and burrowing animals out, but allow earthworms to pass through. Earthworms are nature’s gardeners, aerating and enriching soil for plants. Staple the cloth to the bed frame during construction and ensure it remains in place for years to come. This durable material is designed to prevent burrowing animals from affecting the bed frame’s functionality.
How do you close the bottom of a raised garden bed?
To keep out weeds in raised beds, add physical barriers like burlap or weed barrier cloth to the bottom of the bed before putting in soil. You can also use several layers of cardboard as a weed barrier, but remove tape and glossy print areas first. The cardboard will break down in about 4 to 6 months. If you live in a location with pests like voles and moles, put hardware cloth at the bottom of the bed before filling it with soil. Layer landscape fabric or cardboard on top of the hardware cloth for weed control.
These barriers provide protection without sacrificing good drainage. Most raised beds with bottoms are made of steel, as it is strong enough to support the weight of the entire bed once filled with soil.
What is the best thing to line a raised bed with?
Raised garden beds with legs are designed with a bottom. It is recommended that this space be lined with a permeable material, such as a weed mat or landscape fabric, to prevent soil loss during watering. The optimal material for lining a raised garden bed is contingent upon the specific bed type, the overarching garden objectives, and the prevailing environmental conditions. The most commonly selected materials include:
Should I put fabric on bottom of raised garden bed?
Landscape fabric serves as a raised bed liner to prevent soil erosion and minimize nutrient loss risk. It helps maintain water-soluble nutrients from the soil, preventing water from gushing out too quickly. To make installation easier, you can buy materials separately or use bundles like the landscape fabric and heavy-duty staple bundle, which includes 3″ x 50″ weed barrier landscape fabric with 8 or 11 gauge staples. This makes building a raised bed garden more efficient and cost-effective.
How do you secure a raised bed?
For single-level frames or lower structures, use fixing plates and angled brackets to secure timber lengths together. These fixings provide additional support in corners and across tall frames. For a traditional finish, drive timber dowels down through sleeper lengths for added strength and support. Use an auger bit to pilot a hole that matches the dowel diameter, then hammer the dowel lengths into place until snug. The excess can be removed with a universal handsaw for a flush finish.
To protect the timber from rot, wear, and decay, treat it with a suitable finish, including specialist treatments, dyes, varnish, stain, and oil. For more tips on application and maintenance, refer to the 5 ways to treat exterior wood.
Why put cardboard in the bottom of a raised bed?
Cardboard provides a damp environment that attracts earthworms and other beneficial soil microorganisms. It can be used in raised beds and vermicomposting bins, serving as bedding and food source. Vego Garden’s in-ground worm composter is a low-maintenance option for soil enrichment. Cardboard can also serve as pest protection against burrowing pests like gophers, voles, and moles. To prevent dirt and debris accumulation, add a gopher net. Landscape fabrics are permeable, but dirt and debris can accumulate over time, making them impermeable. To protect plants, add a layer of cardboard to garden beds and place netting above it.
How do you anchor a raised garden bed?
Building raised garden beds on a hill or slope is a simple and effective way to create an ideal growing space for plants and vegetables. Begin by building the box and placing it on the slope. Use blocks to lift the box up to a level position, position 2’x4′ corner stakes in each corner and screw the garden box to these posts. Remove the supporting blocks from under the bed frame.
Fill in the space between the box and the ground using tapered pieces of wood and screw the boards to the ground stakes. Fill in the front and side gaps with dirt and start planting. Raised garden beds offer numerous benefits, including being adjustable to any height, reducing back strain, keeping out rabbits and other animals, providing a clean division between lawn and garden areas, reducing weed control, eliminating the need to walk in the garden area, allowing gardening in nontraditional locations, and allowing the soil to warm faster in the spring, especially if the bed is made from heat-absorbing materials like stones or concrete.
What’s the best thing to put in the bottom of a raised garden bed?
A raised garden bed is a versatile and efficient way to grow plants in your garden. It provides a space for growing various plants, allowing you to create a healthy ecosystem and attract beneficial wildlife. To build a raised garden bed, start with a layer of coarse material like gravel or small stones for drainage, fill the bed with a mix of topsoil, compost, and other organic materials, and use rainwater collected from a water butt as a sustainable water storage solution. If desired, add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Select appropriate plants or seeds based on their sun exposure and soil type, arrange them according to their spacing needs, and establish a regular watering schedule based on their needs. Avoid overcompacting the soil and ensure adequate drainage. Regularly check for and remove weeds to prevent them from competing with your plants. Avoid overcompacting the soil and ensure the bed has adequate drainage.
Maintaining your raised garden bed is crucial for its success. Test your soil every year to check for nutrient levels and pH balance, adjust as necessary, and add compost or other organic matter to replenish nutrients. Water your plants regularly, focusing on deep, infrequent watering to encourage deep root growth. Apply a layer of organic mulch to conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weed growth.
Check your plants regularly for signs of pests or disease, using organic methods like companion planting, beneficial insects, or natural pesticides to manage pests. Use weed barriers or landscape fabric, clear out leftover debris, loosen the soil, and replenish the mulch layer as needed. Monitor water levels, especially during hot periods, and continue weeding and pest control.
In colder regions, cover the beds with mulch or burlap to protect the soil from erosion and nutrient loss. Inspect the structure of your raised beds periodically for signs of wear or damage, repair any loose boards or eroded edges, and consider adding additional supports or reinforcing the sides if necessary.
Companion planting in raised garden beds can significantly enhance the health and yield of your garden by grouping plants that benefit each other when grown together. This approach can include improved growth, pest control, and better use of space. For raised beds with legs, lightweight and durable materials like landscape fabric or fine mesh hardware cloth are ideal for good drainage and aeration.
When setting up a raised garden bed on concrete, drainage and root health are key concerns. Start with a layer of landscape fabric to prevent soil from washing out, followed by a layer of gravel or small stones for drainage. Fill the bed with a mix of topsoil, compost, and other organic matter for a nutrient-rich environment for plants.
Cost-effective ways to fill a raised garden bed include using locally available and recycled materials, such as cardboard or newspaper as a weed barrier. By following these guidelines, you can create a successful and productive raised garden bed for your garden.
Should raised garden beds have bottoms?
Raised garden beds can be left unlined, but this lacks protection against weeds and pests. If the bed is less than six inches deep, no barrier is needed to provide plant roots with enough space to grow downwards. For beds deeper than six inches, a layer of protection should be placed between the raised bed soil and the ground. Lining the bottom of a raised bed can also protect soil from extreme temperatures and prevent excess water drainage.
Despite lining the bottom, raised beds should not have an enclosed bottom, as they should be left open to the ground for plant roots to grow further for nutrients. A minimum of eight inches of soil is required for most plant root systems, but aiming for eight to 12 inches for optimal growth.
📹 How to Build a HINGED HOOP HOUSE for a Raised Bed
In this video I’m showing you how to make a simple DIY hinged hoop house for a raised bed. Check out the School Of Traditional …
Ha, I am glad you embraced the imperfect. I never do anything perfect so it is good to know I might have success with this project. It is very windy here at times. I might need to put some locks on the edges to keep it from blowing away. Thank you for showing how to do this. You always make it look easy.
I’m here from the link on today’s article about overwintering pepper plants. I’m in 8a (10-20F) here. I just made my first garden this year in containers on the deck. One 2×4′ planter table and five 5 gallon planters. I spent a huge portion of my growing season waiting for my peppers to develop fruit so overwintering the ones I want to keep is my new focus. If I modify your plans here for my small table, do you think it will be enough in 8a even with open air below? I have a south facing wall with brick down low, but I don’t think it will be enough by itself. I’m thinking of using either of these in conjunction with large incandescent Christmas lights for more heat on the coldest nights. What do you think?
Your instructions are almost exactly as we built our first hoop bed. We added metal pole props on each end that fit into holes on the 2×4 to keep it safely raised while working in the bed. I found that the 2×4 made it too heavy for me to comfortably lift, so the next one my husband trimmed the 2×4 to make it strong, but much more lightweight.
Impeccable timing as we got down to the high 30s for the first time last night here in NC and I knew I have to get my frost protection ready. One question I’ve always had regarding the hinged covers is how do you access the plants on the hinged side? One reason for building beds no more than 4 ft wide is so that you can easily reach all the plants. I’m tall but my arms couldn’t effectively reach 4 ft to tend the plants.
Amazing Brian! You are always impressing me with what you have figured out to do. I already fiberglass rod sections that are held together with metal links and was thinking of just connecting them to the outside of the raised bed. There are also clips to hold the fabric on the arches. Then it occurred to me, how will I get in to plant and harvest easily and your hinged framework is the answer. My goal has been to extend the growing season, and this seems totally possible. I built a lean against my house frame, which over wintered my cabbage plants (to grow seeds) and protected my blueberry containers from our harsh northern Illinois winter. I’m sure some help came from heat escaping the house, but that was enough encouragement for me to try in on the raised bed. Another thank you, Brian, and may the Lord keep blessing you and yours.
BEEE-utiful! I can’t wait to make my husband build these for me! We have issues with groundhogs, squirrels, bunnies, and ALL the bugs, so my husband built 3’ high wood and wire “fences” around my raised beds. These hoop houses seem like a better idea because it’s hard for me to get into the beds with the fencing but I could just open these. Thank you!
I wish someone would do a article for raised beds that are metal. I have multiple galvanized raised beds and need to implement shade and insect covers for them. It’s hard to know how to do it if there is no wood to screw into. But I get the general idea. Thanks for the info! I am always learning from your website.
Great article! I’ve been having trouble with raccoons digging up my raised beds. They aren’t eating the plants, just digging them up & digging holes. I think they’re after worms(?) from the worm-filled compost I spread on the beds. As my beds are lined with gopher wire, I know it’s not gophers. Do you think plastic is enough to keep the raccoons out, or should I be looking at hard-wire cloth to cover the tops of the beds?
With this same design – for vastly colder climates – even Alaska and northern states (away from convection winds and blizzards) one can install the same covering to the inside. This takes a little more skill, as one needs to pre-drill the PVC pipe and “T” and “+” intersections accepting a wood screw. One then screws in the bottom portion of the sheeting across the closest hinged area of the hoop house, pulling and tightening the sheeting. One moves up (with “multiple !” screw points – washer and wood screw) the PVC piping, pulling and tightening and attaching the sheeting. This might be even more easy, if the whole hoop house structure is inside the garage or work area, as one more easily “rolls” the hoop house on its back and one moves across the PVC piping and screwing down the inside sheeting. Eventually, one finishes off the last plastic attachment and cuts off the excess sheeting length. What is this double sheeting all about ? It makes a semi-sealed double plastic sheeted hoop house. The same technology of putting plastic sheeting on one’s windows (in those northern Midwest states) outside and inside. This creates an air barrier (around that cold convecting glass window and the wind) that also heats up with infrared sunlight – and keeps the hoop house even more insulated and warm. Warm in so much that you can literally (~almost~) grow a summer crop in the middle of the cold winter ! A little more work, a little more product – but in the end – if you want to grow all-year round – and have a temparate grow zone – this is a ready prepper option.