The depth of greenhouse pipes is crucial for optimal performance. Ceres recommends burying pipes 2-4 feet below grade to ensure they are above the water table. In some cases, pipes can be 15 to 21 feet deep, but this depth is not necessary for performance. Root zone heating systems for greenhouses provide heat directly to the growing media rather than heating the soil.
Corrugated pipes with a 3in diameter are recommended for snaking around the garden at about 6 feet depth, with each pipe about 200 feet long with a fan. Shallow installation prevents the greenhouse tubing from reaching the stable temperatures of the soil deep underground. Earth battery greenhouses (GAHT) are another option for greenhouses.
The standard length for PVC pipe is 20 feet, and with a 12-foot-wide hoop house, the height in the center is approximately 6 1/2 feet. Insulation board 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick can be installed vertically around the outside of the foundation to a depth of 1 to 2 feet. One climate battery should be installed even lower in the ground, ideally 6-8 feet underground, to capture some of the earth’s latent heat.
Pound rebar into the ground about 15″ deep on the outside of the frame at two foot intervals, leaving 15″ sticking up out of the frame.
📹 Poor Man’s Geothermal
This video shows how to build a “poor man’s geothermal” system for a greenhouse. The system uses a network of pipes buried underground to regulate the temperature of the greenhouse, taking advantage of the stable temperature of the soil. The video explains the materials needed, the installation process, and the benefits of this system for year-round growing.
How deep should the soil be in a greenhouse?
To grow plants in a greenhouse, start by tilling the ground, digging the soil to a depth of 8″ to 12″, and ensuring ample ventilation. If using a rototiller, leave both doors open for cross-ventilation. Shape raised beds with adequate path space and a spot inside each door for easy access. Rake the soil away from the sides of the greenhouse, leaving a gap of 16-18 inches. Add soil amendments like organic minerals and compost, and water the beds lightly.
Cover with a row cover to encourage weed seeds to sprout before planting. After about 10 days, remove the row cover and use a flame weeder or collinear to remove weeds without disturbing the soil. Plant seeds into the clean seed bed, water in, and cover again with the row cover until germination.
The workflow of plants may vary depending on the crop, but the secret to efficient growing is to find the sequence that works best for each crop. If building a hoop house, consider Harnois Greenhouse in Canada for a greenhouse plastic cover and Bootstrap Farmer in the US for a DIY greenhouse kit with a poly plastic cover.
What thickness is best for greenhouse?
The optimal thickness for greenhouses in moderate climates is 6 mil, while 8-12 mil is recommended for cold climates and commercial operations. The longevity of quality greenhouse plastic is contingent upon proper installation and maintenance. In particular, ultraviolet (UV) protection is of paramount importance.
How deep should greenhouse beds be?
The soil inside a greenhouse should be 8 to 12 inches deep for easier access without bending. As raised beds grow taller, turning the soil with a shovel becomes more difficult. Ventilation is essential for greenhouses, and there are various options available, including standard Sturdi-Built Greenhouse features, exterior glazing, thermal options, Bayliss Solar Vent Openers, orchid gardening, cannabis greenhouses, and more. Other greenhouse options include Deluxe Glass-to-Ground, Garden Deluxe, Nantucket, Solite, Trillium, Tropic, and Tudor.
Can a greenhouse sit on gravel?
Greenhouse models can be installed on various surfaces, including grassy areas, concrete slabs, gravel-filled areas, slabs or patio bricks, raised wooden plinths, or dwarf walls. Planning ahead allows for the selection of materials and groundwork. A list of the best floors and bases for greenhouse installation is provided, allowing you to choose the best one for your garden and new structure. Grass or soil can be the least expensive and easiest option, as it provides a suitable base plinth. Other common greenhouse base options include concrete slabs, gravel-filled areas, slabs or patio bricks, raised wooden plinths, and dwarf walls.
How deep to dig for a greenhouse?
An Underground Greenhouse, also known as a Walipini greenhouse, is a structure submerged 4-6 feet below ground level. It uses radiation and emissivity to heat materials, with blacker materials absorbing more light. Reflecting light with white or shiny surfaces can increase brightness, spreading productive growing light. Materials like stone and metals transfer heat effectively to cool areas, while insulators can slow heat transfer to cold areas. Convection occurs when hot air rises and leaves cool areas near the ground.
Is 4mm polycarbonate ok for a greenhouse?
4mm polycarbonate sheets, available in clear, are optimal for use in greenhouses, cold frames, and shed windows as a replacement for glass and for allowing light while providing a slight degree of obscurity.
Is 4 mil plastic thick enough for a greenhouse?
The thickness of greenhouse plastic is crucial for its durability, light transmission, and insulation properties. A minimum thickness of 6 mil is recommended for most greenhouse applications, offering a balance between strength, longevity, and light transmission. Greenhouse plastic comes in various thicknesses, from 3 mil to 11 mil. To determine the appropriate size, measure the length, width, height, and length of the hoops of your greenhouse structure. Greenhouse plastics come in transparency levels, including clear, opaque, and white. Clear plastic allows the most light, opaque plastic filters light, and white plastic has limited applications.
How thick is sheeting for greenhouse?
Greenhouse covers come in a range of 3 mil – 12 mil, with the most common thickness being 6 mil. The thickness of plastic sheeting depends on factors such as the frame material, the application of the sheeting, and the expected weather conditions. A thickness gauge can help determine the thickness of your plastic sheeting. If your greenhouse is built from weaker material like PVC and the plastic sheeting material is too heavy, it may collapse, especially in strong weather.
Thicker films should be used on wood or metal structures. Growers should also consider that PVC or polyester frames can react chemically with polyethylene sheeting, resulting in faster erosion. Consult an expert to evaluate your specific growing conditions and choose the right thickness for your greenhouse.
How deep are pit greenhouses?
Pit greenhouses are energy-efficient, as they are essentially holes dug into the ground with an attached glass structure. They maintain a temperature of around 50 degrees year-round, which is 10 degrees warmer than an above-ground greenhouse. To maintain a 70-degree temperature, only 20 degrees need to be raised. Most plants require constant 60-degree temperatures, so pit greenhouses stabilize the temperature, reducing energy costs and allowing for year-round plant nurturing.
Plant selection is crucial, but allowing the greenhouse’s temperature to fall below 50 degrees is not recommended. Cold weather crops like kale and broccoli can grow lower temperatures, while warm weather plants like peppers and tomatoes require higher temperatures. Plants are often grown directly in the soil in pit greenhouses, but extra depth is needed for drainage and the floor is sloped to encourage water run-off.
Is 4 mil plastic thick enough for greenhouse?
The thickness of greenhouse plastic is crucial for its durability, light transmission, and insulation properties. A minimum thickness of 6 mil is recommended for most greenhouse applications, offering a balance between strength, longevity, and light transmission. Greenhouse plastic comes in various thicknesses, from 3 mil to 11 mil. To determine the appropriate size, measure the length, width, height, and length of the hoops of your greenhouse structure. Greenhouse plastics come in transparency levels, including clear, opaque, and white. Clear plastic allows the most light, opaque plastic filters light, and white plastic has limited applications.
Should a greenhouse have a dirt floor?
Planting directly into the soil in a greenhouse provides several benefits for growers. It provides a natural, holistic environment, promoting healthier root development and overall plant vitality. This method reduces the need for artificial soil mixtures and containers, saving time and money. It also allows better water drainage, preventing waterlogged roots and potential diseases. The soil acts as a thermal mass, regulating temperature fluctuations within the greenhouse.
Finishing the greenhouse floor with stone, pavers, or gravel is popular due to their compatibility with raised beds. Raised beds connect directly to the soil beneath the greenhouse, allowing plants’ root systems to grow deeper into the soil below grade. Pavers, flagstone, or crushed gravel can be used as walkways between the beds. Concrete floors or slab flooring are another option for greenhouse growers.
📹 Earth Tube short…
I have had these earth tubes running for almost a year and they have kept the place warm all winter and cool in the summer.
So the 8″ tube exchanges more heat than the 6″? Wow, that’s counter intuitive. I’ve considered doing earthtubes for the earth sheltered ICF house I’m building into a hillside BUT I’d have to zigzag the tubes, getting 200 linear feet in 100 foot distance downhill. Then there’s a ride up the next hill (which is also my property an additional 300 feet) but I’m concerned because the low spot between the hills fills up with water every time it rains. I can just imagine if I ran it up the other hill I would get condensation filling the low spot AND possibly the tubes “floating” up through saturated soil.
Thanks for the update! I’m still hoping a bit for a full update on the actual isolation plan. I read your web site, but that seems a bit outdated at the moment (understandebly). Anyways, your project is a huge motivation for me to investigate efficient living, confort by design and smart ways of harnesing energy. I wish you all the best!
Well done Simon…I haven’t been perusal for a long while, that looks fantastic and well planned, most earth tubes I’ve seen are way too short…you and the missus have taken up a huge project almost to completion, hats off to you both that is a huge achievement 👌👏👏👏👏👍 I have to mention your parents and the kids are a great help as well!
Fantastic! Thank you for showing your working set-up! Materials 1) Aprilaire Dehumidifier 2) double-walled HDPE pipes (4″x2 & 6″x2) 3) AC Infinity inline duct fans x 4 4) galvanized steel lath 5) furnace filters Design *You slope the 4 pipes 250′ up toward the house and make pipe fittings soil tight but not water-tight to allow condensation to drain. *You have a machine room below grade. From there you pull air into the dehumidifier and then push air into the home. *Galvanized steel lath at earth tube entry (& eventually furnace filters?) Did I get that right? Did I leave anything out? How many sqft is your home?
In humid climates circulating water through a fractional hp circulating pump through a H2O air coil and an air delivery system might be another way to go. Instead of burying air tubes you bury irrigation tubes in a closed loop. The one additional thing I would consider is an undersized mini split perhaps the one that runs on solar to dehumidify.
Just finding your page, and will be building a home at 4000 feet in North Carolina right on the Tennessee line. Wanting to put in earth tubes to supply the air for my ERV, the question I have is concerning mold and mildew growing on the inside of the tubes with the humidity is high as you’ve indicated in the temperature using the humidity mold growth chart mold would be growing have you experience that I’m wondering if mold would grow with air movement like it does inside the tubes so I’m hoping your answer is no mold is growing 🙂
great project! I have similar Earth Tubes installed in my house (Southern Brazil, mostly hot climate, only needed for cooling, 4x6in tubes, 50m long, coming downhill to the house). Now I need to figure out how to increase air flow: Should I install a solar collector (solar chimney) on the roof, or install a fan in the incoming Earth Tube? I see you have several fans with about 50W each. Have you ever measured the air temperature increase after vs before the fans?
This is really impressive at 55 deg F when it is 90+deg F outside. Do you know what the ground temperature is in the summer or the temp in the earth tubes in the ground? My local ground water averages about 72 deg F in a higher humidity are in FL. I wonder if I can get anywhere near 55 deg F if I did earth tubes??. Thanks.
Bad idea. Yes, it works. Got it. No argument. You are going to have to have condensation in those tube, and folliwign the condensation, you’ll have mold & mildew. Have fun cleaning that out! A better way is to run 1″ flexible pipe and pump water through it, then a radiator in your house to exchange the heat. No mold. No mildew. Much better control. Only marginally higher power requirements.
You should have just used the earth tubes to cool an air-to-air variable rate inverter A/C condenser and air handler in this room instead of using a constant on/off/on inefficient dehumidifier. This will keep the outdoor humidity from even entering the conditioned space in the first place because the only air being conditioned is indoor air. You will use far less energy this way. You also can’t use “tables” to tell what your humidity is. You need to take a wet-bulb measurement of the actual room.
What do you mean by “kept the place warm all winter”? 50 degree air isn’t warm, and likely was cooler in the winter.. I could understand cooling and warming a air cooled condenser of a mini split.. But introducing this wet air to the home in summer requires allot of energy to dehumidify. And the potential for mold, living under ground, and drawing air through earth tubes is to high for me.. The only way for it to be safe is if it was all down hill. And even then, I would only supply earth tube air to a condenser or HRV intake.