Roses are a beautiful and colorful plant that can be grown in your garden year after year. To care for roses, follow these essential rules:
- Water: Roses require at least 6 hours of full sun per day, preferably in the morning. They need a well-drained, sunny location with good drainage.
- Fertilize: Roses grow best in slightly acidic soil with efficient drainage. A loose, loamy soil promotes good drainage but still holds enough water for their blooms.
- Watering: Water roses regularly to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
- Watering early in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves by watering around the base of the plant.
- Applying organic fertilizers: Organic fertilizers can help maintain the health and vigor of roses.
- Pests and diseases: Choose a rose that is hardy and resistant to pests and diseases to prepare yourself before planting.
- Pruning: Regularly prune your roses before the new growing season to ensure they remain healthy.
- Disease prevention: Use organic fertilizers to prevent pests and diseases from affecting the plant’s growth.
In summary, roses are a beautiful and easy plant to grow with proper attention to detail, proper planting, pruning, fertilization, disease prevention, and pest management techniques.
📹 7 Rules for Pruning Roses
Rose pruning can be intimidating for beginners. Garden advice on the topic is often presented as a set of “rules” to follow for …
How to maintain a rose plant?
Roses require at least 6 hours of full sun a day, well-drained, nutrient-rich soil, and moderate water to maintain their health. Water should be applied directly to the root zone, not to the leaf surface, to decrease the spread of fungal diseases. When pruning roses in early spring, open the center to improve light penetration and air circulation, creating an environment less favorable to fungal disease development.
Maintaining a tidy garden, including eliminating dead, dying, and diseased plants and parts, is crucial for maintaining the health of the plant. This includes cleaning up potentially diseased rose leaves, as fungal spores on fallen leaves can overwinter and return in the spring.
How to keep a rose plant alive?
To ensure the health and best display of flowers, rose bushes require six to eight hours of sunlight daily, well-drained soil, and protection from the sun. In hot climates, they thrive in hot afternoon sun, while in cold climates, planting next to a fence or wall can minimize winter freeze damage. Roses are best planted in spring or fall, with early planting allowing roots to establish before winter dormancy. Bare-root roses are available in early spring and should be planted soon after arrival. Container roses offer more flexibility in planting time.
How do you keep roses blooming?
Roses are a popular flower due to their showy blooms and enticing fragrance. To encourage rebloom, roses need proper care and consistent attention during spring and summer. To achieve this, follow these tips from several rosarians:
- Water your rose bushes properly, avoiding over or underwatering them.
- Fertilize regularly, and inspect your roses for pests and disease.
- Provide adequate sunlight, at least six hours a day.
- Inspect your roses for pests and disease, and ensure they are in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade.
- Inspect your roses for pests and disease, and take steps to prevent them from reblooming. By following these tips, you can ensure your roses continue to bloom for longer.
What makes roses bloom again?
Roses require regular fertilization to promote abundant blooms. Start by enriching the soil with organic matter like compost before planting and use a balanced rose fertilizer or slow-release granular fertilizer during the growing season. Follow the instructions from your middletown flower shop on application rates and timing. Pruning and deadheading are essential practices for rose care, removing dead or damaged wood and weak or crossing branches before new growth begins. Deadheading redirects the plant’s energy towards producing new buds.
Send rose flowers to your loved ones as a thoughtful gesture. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of common diseases like blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust. If detected, treat the affected plants with appropriate fungicides or natural remedies. Keep an eye out for common rose pests like aphids, thrips, and spider mites and use insecticidal soaps to control their populations and prevent damage to the blooms.
How do you protect a dying rose plant?
In order to rescue a rose, it is recommended that the plant be pruned by half if it is tall and leggy, and that it be given a boost by regular watering. It is also recommended that the plant be fertilized, protected from pests, and treated for or prevented from developing diseases. Additionally, general maintenance should be performed to ensure the plant’s continued health and productivity.
What does an overwatered rose plant look like?
Overwatering flowers can be caused by excessive water, fertilizer, or light. Symptoms include wilting flowers, yellowish leaves, brownish flowers, and dry stems. Overwatering slows plant growth and produces less flowers. Leaves may also appear yellowish, dry, brittle, and dull. If the plant is droopy and dry, water enough to create a damp soil without overly soaking or floating. If these symptoms persist, the plant needs more water and should be gently watered.
If the soil appears dry and crumbly, water the plant again. Most soils contain moisture all day long, but if the soil appears dry, it may be time to add mulch or topsoil. It’s important to monitor the plant’s progress and adjust watering levels accordingly.
How to keep potted roses alive?
Potted roses are becoming increasingly popular as they have a longer life span, especially when well-cared for. To keep them happy, provide them with at least 6 hours of direct sun per day, as they are not shade-lovers. Move them to a sunny spot indoors near a north-facing window to keep them happy in the short term. Keep them watered regularly, ensuring the soil is dry out completely and not overwatering. Avoid fertilizing, as roses don’t like soggy soil.
Transplant them when they are ready to bloom, as they require a lot of resources, including water. Ensure that excess water drains from the base of the pot to prevent waterlogging. By following these tips, you can ensure that your potted roses continue to thrive and provide a beautiful and lasting gift for your loved ones.
Do you cut off dead rose blooms?
Once the desired floral arrangement has been completed, the finished flower should be severed, allowing any residual buds or blooms to continue their flowering process. The entire flowering head should be removed by cutting the stem just above the first leaf with five leaflets. Any stems that are disproportionately tall should be pruned back to the height of the rest of the plant, creating a neat, rounded shape as the pruning is carried out.
How do you take care of an indoor rose plant?
Growing indoor roses is a fun way to enjoy the colorful flowers of roses all year round, regardless of the weather. Rose enthusiasts, known as rosarians, are finding new ways to bring their favorite blooms into the home. Winter is the perfect time to start your indoor rose garden, as plants are dormant and bare root plants are available everywhere.
To keep indoor roses healthy, water them daily or every other day, and keep a small amount of water in the pot’s drip tray. Fertilize monthly with a water-soluble variety designed for use with roses. Most rose plants can be grown in a sunny corner or window area, but some species work well with artificial light. Miniature roses require the highest amount of light, so choose them only if you have lots of sunshine or grow lights.
Plant your indoor rose garden in January or February, when plants are dormant. Choose a deep container approximately as wide as the plant’s canopy and provide good drainage. Use a soil mix that contains the nutrients and drainage material appropriate for the species you have selected. South-facing light is best, but you can locate your plants anywhere in the house that provides six to eight hours a day of sunlight and plenty of air circulation.
Ideally, ideal temperatures at night should not drop below the mid-60s, with a stay in the 70s during the day.
Does sugar make roses last longer?
To keep cut flowers fresh longer, dissolve 3 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons white vinegar in warm water. Cover cut stems with 3-4 inches of water, pour 1/4 cup of soda into the water, and use clear soda if using a clear vase. A spritz of hair spray can also help keep flowers looking fresh. Mix 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar and 2 tablespoons sugar with the vase water, and change the water every few days to enhance the flowers’ longevity. This simple solution can help maintain the freshness of cut flowers for a longer period.
📹 How to grow Roses | Grow at Home | Royal Horticultural Society
Roses are a classic and instantly recognisable plant, ideal for almost every style of garden Visit the iconic Festival of Roses at The …
A question/ comment about sealing freshly pruned canes: Cane borers have been a huge problem in my garden for years. I have been sealing the pruning cuts with woodworking glue and it doesn’t work, they bore right through the glue. How can we prevent/ control cane borers in freshly spring- pruned canes?
Very well explained. I live in England and I always prune my roses between the last week of February and the first week of March. I deadhead regularly and feed twice a year with a granular rose food. I’ve had my roses for many years and they are beautiful every year. Many people think roses are hard work but I always tell people that’s not true.
You have such a lovely place. The flowers make it look so cozy and inviting. I can just imagine the joy your roses bring. I came across your website as I was looking to find someone who had the Pilgrim Climber. I have 2 that I will be planting very soon. Yours is gorgeous. I also love the color of your shutters. I have been wanting to paint my main entrance door with a similar color, but my son didn’t think it would look good on our home. After seeing your shutters, I am going to show him how pretty yours look. I grew up in the mountains of Virginia on our family farm. I have so many wonderful memories of those times of working alongside my family whether it be in the fields or our vegetable gardens, but my favorite memories are of the times spent with my mama and grandma and their roses. Many of the roses on our land had been planted by grandma as a young wife. She had planted rambling roses throughout the property. They grew wild and were huge and draped beautifully over the fencing in random areas. When the winters began to give way to spring, I always had a sense of overwhelming happiness. I knew the roses would follow and soon, masses of pink and white blooms just exploded everywhere. I remember lying in my bed and how strong and sweet their scent was and how that scent drifted through my open window. On days that there was no school, I would grab a book or my guitar and set out to one particular rose bush that grew alongside a back meadow and just beyond an old mulberry tree.
I am an experienced gardener but have never attempted roses. I have 3 rose bushes, in pots, that I am developing. I am very excited and nervous! LOL! I am going to move them to the next largest pot today. I don’t want to plant in the ground because it is quite hot here now. (NC). I have learned SO much from your articles! The “crossing branch” theory is quite interesting to me because it the way one would prune a young youngish tree. So, on with the day. Thank you again.
What a helpful article! My husband and I moved into an old (200 years+) cottage in Wales last year. One of the main reasons for the purchase was the garden! Oh my goodness, what a beautiful place it is! But it’s been left for about 2 years because the old lady who lived here went into care. I feel very bad for allowing the state of it to worsen (apparently she lived for gardening and was chairwoman of the local horticultural society!!) but to tell you the truth… I dont know a lot about gardening! But I have been pruning back to make sure we can move around and to stop nothing from getting truly out of control (although I need to hire someone to do the HUGE weeping birch): the lawn gets cut etc. we have a Japanese quince which looks like its getting strangled and a f… the yellow one at the beginning you mentioned (see?! Not a clue!), and LOADS of roses!!!! LOADS! Unfortunately they’re mostly once-blooming but a couple go throughout the year. I haven’t touched any of them because I’m afraid of killing them, but you’re article has helped loads. I feel i know exactly what i need to do now. Thank you!
I prune my neighbour’s bush twice a year and she’s always delighted. 😉 The last week in March…quite vigorously…as it’s proven to encourage swift new growth, then again in the last week of October, more to shape it for the coming year. It’s worked for me for over five decades, regardless of species. Another reason for pruning is to ensure air circulates, keeping the plant cooler in hotter weather and to enable the gardener to spot insect infestations more easily. Incidently, cutting on a downward slant, away from the thorn, so water doesn’t pool on the cut, lessens chance of infection getting in that way or the stem splitting, as we clearly saw in one of your stems. Obviously, it’s your website, so you’re free to scoff at the experiences and opinions of professional gardeners, who understand why practices are employed, over centuries, and passed down through apprentices. Happy gardening. 🙂
This article had a lot of good info. The house I just bought has over 100 rose bushes, and I have never cared for roses in my life. They are probably 5 – 10 years old and are beautiful. BUT, I’m concerned about the pruning. These roses have not been cut back for several years. The stems are thick and woody, some of them are 8 feet tall. Do I still cut them back to 2 feet? How do I know which branches are suckers and which I should keep?
I have ordered a David Austin climber that I plan to train on an obelisk. I have always believed my coastal NC climate was not rose friendly. That may still be true but I plan to go in it with as much knowledge as possible. Thank you for good clear instructions. You make me believe I can be a rose grower.
I think the importance of precision and tool hygiene is often understated. I think of it this way- doctors used to amputate limbs in a variety of horrific ways which often became infected, sometimes killed the amputee, sometimes the person was left alive but with a brutal wound that probably made their lives much harder to adapt to- that is until we developed a better understanding of anatomy, sharper, smaller tools, and antiseptics! It’s no different with plants ☺️ Treat them like they have feelings (cause they do! 💚)
I seem to come back every year to remind myself – thanks for the clear, no-nonsense explanation. I have a special rose to care for this year onwards; it’s a Marie Louise, gifted as a memorial to my late grandmother of the same name. It’s a once flowering old rose and is going to be in a pot for the next year or so. I’m really nervous of pruning this next year so would appreciate any tips. Thankyou!
Rule #6: From my experience (growing roses in Australia), the way you prune a cane depends upon several factors. a. The diameter of the cane; smaller canes can be pruned perpendicularly without any sterilising. Just look how the rose naturally does it for proof. b. The angle you cut larger canes can range from about 10 – 40 degrees. Use your rose as a guide to what angle it likes best. Too steep an angle (like 45 degrees in some instances) can cause dieback to occur. c. Sterilising the ends large diameter canes is advised. A bitumen based pruning paint works well. It certainly prevents dieback. The amount of and type of pruning depends on what you want to accomplish, whether you want high quality single stem roses or just lots of roses. Generally the harder you prune, the less flowers are produced.
I’ve found your website for the first time today and I am now not so scared to prune the roses! It does feel a little shocking to see the before and after of how you pruned the Fellowship rose but after seeing you do it, I feel more confident. Thank you for your straightforward explanations and I will follow your guidelines next year as it may be too late to do this pruning at the end of May here in Kent, England.
Thank you for an easy-to-understand guide and demonstration to prune roses. I am the person you speak of, afraid to prune so I avoid most. I have a prized rose that I am desperate to learn to prune properly – Let Freedom Ring. It is a long-stemmed Hybrid Tea rose in a beautiful red that wants to grow very tall. I know I am in the ideal location for this rose because I live within 10 miles of where it was hybridized. Actually, I blew it – my great Uncle was the hybridizer. I had only met him once and my dad passed shortly after I learned of this rose, I always said I’m going to call or visit, I didn’t and he passed away. Loved your article, subscribed and will be following and looking at prior articles.
It would be nice if you make a little ” update of the pruned rose ” article once it’s in bloom or when it grows back to see how it will look =) Not sure if it’s just me but I think it would be nice to see, always awesome to see beautiful flowers ^^ oh and Also could you make a article about Why are potential reason why a rose won’t bloom/flower ?
Thanks for this article. very helpful to have the “myths” simplified and dispelled! I have been intimidated by roses in the past, (i think because of the variety and mythologies around them, and now I see that pruning them is essentially the same as any shrub. dead, damaged, diseased, crossing and shaping. Thanks again! I go forth to prune!!!
Thank you for your time spent making this article and sharing your knowledge. Its a great help, and I just added 6 months as I live down under in New Zealand. Loving my rose garden, and many of my guitar students have commented on our new rose gardens dressing up our front yard. So Thank you once again for your time and knowledge.
Nice clear vid, thanks. Having grown roses for 30+ years, I would add few comments. Pruning: autumn light pruning to avoid wind rock, spring pruning for most, BUT, different species require different pruning, e.g. once flowering ramblers – prune immediately after flowering, early flow ring shrubs likewise for a second flowering. Also, get to know your plants, if they are struggling, mulch & fertilise well, and v light pruning, or none at all. I did a hard pruning two years ago, & some roses struggled to recover, this year, almost no pruning for the climbers. But with basic good care, roses are surprisingly forgiving & productive. And the scents… don’t get me started, they vary enormously.
I liked the tip about making our 1st prunings on roses & maybe other blooming shrubs, when the Forsythia are in bloom, & that Quince branch in bloom was such a beautiful sight! I’m imagining it looked lovely in a vase, & might’ve rooted for you. The real reason to cut any stem on any plant at an angle is so that rain, or water from a hose will roll off & won’t sit on the cut, possibly inviting disease or mildew. Which is why it’s best to water nearest the soil & not on the stems & leaves for the same reason.I learned the lesson the hard way with my 1st rose shrubs, many years ago. An angled cut will dry faster & therefor will also heal faster. The seemingly harshly cut shrub you showed looked beautifully done, to me. While not all roses need to be cut back to that extent, I’ve seen that cutting low on an overgrown & gangly or unbalanced shrub encourages new growth to emerge lower on the stems, so we can create new opportunities for growth emerging lower on the stems. Then we can maintain the new offshoots which will be emerging at roughly the same level, & then prune just above outer facing buds, all at similar levels to encourage a more even looking, more compact, vase-like form, to begin with. Then depending on our shrubs, we may keep them compact, or let the 1st flush of spring growth go & let it arch & spill over, or ramble over a fence, or up it’s arbor, as it was meant to do.. In Spring, when rejuvenating any shrub, like a rose or a Lilac, as you said – first remove any dead, diseased or broken branches.
Thought your article was great. Really appreciate it. I live in Virginia near DC. and I’ve never pruned my roses back, but intend to now (early June). Any concern about the heat or insects damaging the plants? They are dense, very tall and just need to be thinned out in general. Thanks again for all the great information.
You are pruning roses with a lot of emergent growth. I have always believed that i must prune when there are buds and stems, and after danger of frost, but if I prune stems with leaves showing, it’s too late and I might kill the plant or set back flowering to miss the season. Your pictures show lots of leaves. Asking just to try to understand how late is too late? And by the way this is the clearest, best explanation I have ever found! Logically organized. Thank you very much!
Hi Jason, is there a rule about how thick the stems are allowed to be? I didn’t take care of my rose bushes for a couple of years (back injury) and they’ve become pretty ornary, thick at the bottom, over the diameter of a sharpie for example. Do I prune above the thick base of the rose bush now, or can I take it way down to try to bring it back to some semblance of a shapely bush?
Good article. However, I was told the reason you cut at an angle is to help guide the direction of the way the rose stem will grow for shaping it in a more longer time period. I never heard of putting anything on the cuts before, either. So, those old wise tells are new to me, LoL . Learn something new everyday. Tyfs!
Thank you for the article! I live in the Fraser Valley, and when we purchased our house we inherited a number of roses. One of them was incredibly tall – over 8 feet – and as far as I can tell as a total beginner, it was not pruned properly for years and years. I think it must be a grandiflora (sparse foliage, big pink fragrant blooms in groups). I have cut out the obviously dead wood and removed all the small twiggy bits to try and get a better understanding of the plant, and trimmed the tops of all the canes by 1/3. Now I’m a bit stuck – the canes coming out of the crown are almost all barked over and very thick (3 cm in diameter), and the productive growth seems to come out of branchings of these huge old canes well over a foot off the ground. If I cut some of these right back near the crown will that stimulate fresh new canes from the crown itself? Should I wait till next year to do that since I have already pretty aggressively pruned this plant? Thank you!
Thanks for this, I have an old woody rose, probably a traditional old English rose, with simple white flowers, fried egg like. It has a about 4 main stems, and is probably 12ft or something. It’s near a path, so it actually pays to have it more ridgid and not blow over into your face! It can’t get too vase like for the same reason. And cutting it down low, could be problematic. I cleaned it up a little bit last year, and took out face whips, and other old and dead growth. But now am thinking I’d like to tighten it up and have it as two main stems with forks, then into flower. It’s probably a once bloomer. The wood is probably at least an inch or more, in width. Will it heal and even bud on this thicker older wood?
Thank you for the article. I have knock out roses which are compact and difficult to prune at times. I appreciate you discussing crossing stems because I believe that happens with my knock out roses. They’re very compact in the middle and difficult to prune. I also have been afraid to cut off too much, now I’m not.
Lucky me, I found your website doing a search on pruning & dead heading roses. Very helpful website, thank you, nice to know the slant cut is not here or there, btw, & you’ve such gorgeous roses, a beautiful farm,& such a lovely location love all the bird feeders too. I have one hybrid tea, a Double Delight I’ve had since 1989 and I’m very interested in preserving this rose, I love that rose.. The other is a white Iceberg floribunda 2010 or it was white. I moved both to southern NH from Bostom, strangely the floribunda white Iceberg when it bloomed the second summer, the roses turned red. It was transplaneted twice, my husband dug it in first but it was too deep I moved it to another location all together. I have done a search and find some change colour slightly, but this was shocker from white to red not pink I just did a search and I see there is a variety called Burgundy Iceberg ours was certainly white in Boston, and this is a deep red not like the Burgundy, it was white when I first transplanted it in August 2016, red in 2017. It use to be very beautiful in white and very fragrant, it’s still pretty just odd that is red. I wonder if it was grafted and I cut the wrong part off or damaged it when transplanting twice. In any case thank you for your website.
👍 I would add, that if someone is unsure where around a bud to cut or when is the exact right time, just left about an inch above the bud and clean the cut later in the season when new shoot is hardened enough. For those who want to be super precise, I found very useful using bonsai tools, like concave cutters or knob cutters.
Thank you so much. I have a couple very stalky “rose bushes,” if I can even call them that, in my back garden which I have randomly “cut/pruned” over the years with no instruction. I’m finally perusal a couple articles on how to do it the correct way and I’m finding your article for beginners to be very informative and helpful. Thank you so much for this article.
I just purchased a home and there are several old rose bushes around the home. I am not even certain of what kind of roses they are…. maybe climbers, as they seem to be very gangly and out of control!! I would like to prune them back a bit before winter hits, but not sure what to do!! I live in Colorado…… thank you so much for any tips you might have!!
Hello There, You speak very well indeed. I learned such a lot perusal your very beautifully filmed article. What a place, of somewhere inside-a-dream, (loving ROSES all day long) is where you make your livelihood. Most informative “class”. Thank you. Is easy to tell, you are one individual who regularly speaks the TRUTH front & center. And, you are good at it! You’ve Light about-you. & shines out just beautifully. Good job! Well done! CLS
I just adopted my first rose plant. Its an established color magic rose plant i got from home depot. Its got 9 beautiful flowers but they could look better. I really want to learn how to care for her properly. She’s on a big balcony with lots of space since its just her. She’s in a good spot for sunlight. Do you have a recommendation on how big a pot we should buy? What’s the best soil? How often should I water her soil? I’ve got bypass pruning scissors, rose food, and gloves. I know we need to get lots of more stuff this weekend. So many things to learn! My grandmother had beautiful roses, she’s gone and I gotta learn this all on my own. Luckily we have the internet now and cool people like you to make up for it 🌷
Thank you. Absolutely lovely to listen and watch. After too much cold and too much rain, I’m about to go out into my South Oxfordshire garden and get pruning. My forsythia hasn’t come back after moving it last year but the damson blossom has come out in the last three days and the cherry and apple blossom have been out in the orchard about a week. Feeling more empowered after hearing you.
Thank you! One thing I do on the subject of sealing cuts, is that needing to prune a larger stem where you need to use your saw, I dab on some ground cinnamon on the fresh cut which is a natural anti-fungal. No need to repeat it after a rain, just to get it on when the cut is fresh. For me it works like a charm. I also do this on fruit trees if I have to remove a limb rather than a branch, or a sucker which may grow too close to ground level.
Fabulous article! Just went outside Maine, zone 5b (March 21,2022) and saw my David Austen rose bushes and my other knockout rose bushes (I only have 4 rose bushes) needed pruning, but I realized I didn’t know if it was the right time to prune. So, thank goodness I found your article’s. I do have a forsythia, so will wait for that to bloom, or at least till danger of frost is gone. Took a page of notes and really appreciate how informative this was. Thank you!
That was great as we’re just about to run a rose pruning course and it’s something I’ve been keen to do for a long time as there’s no-one in Scotland doing it (only one rose grower now too!). I attended David Austin Roses for a couple of years on their whole day course and latterly went to Peter Beales in Norfolk, both of whom I’m sure you are very aware of. I was heartened by the fact I didn’t gain a great deal (seem to be doing it mostly right) but there was info I really wanted on the older style once flowering roses. Only been gardening for 20 years and currently only have about 500 roses (although quite a few house size!) in the 16 acres I look after. I have to admit that the commercial growers have a time constraint and their pruning methods differ somewhat from those of us who have hours to spend (or are paid to do so) for a finer tweaking. An old rose like ‘Blue Moon’ that really grows like a bunch of raspberry canes really benefits from the outward bud whereas maybe ‘Wendy Cussons’ with its very prostrate habit, well not so bothered. Mostly into HPs, Portlands and very much Bourbons which fair so much better in the cooler climate of Scotland than Southern England. I do recall the presenter at David Austin saying that he pruned his roses when he was tired of his Christmas guests and that was usually on Boxing Day! Most amusing I thought. Far too much myth around the subject and I love going to new gardens and rejuvenating roses that are often in a parlour state.
Thank you for your article! As other’s have said, I’ve watched a lot of articles, but yours is the most instructive. I planted vine roses that grow on a trellis against my garage with clematis. They have grown beautifully. Until a month ago. The blooms stopped blooming – they die in their buds. From my research, it appears they have a fungus ( Botrytis Blight is my guess). I had let the stems criss cross and grow thick with the clematis which I am sure is what lead to the fungus (we had a wet May and first part of June). I bought some copper fungicide. I saw in your comments that it may be too late in the season for a vigorous prune. What do you recommend? Go vigorous to air it out wait or ??? Thank you!!!!
I really enjoyed this. Thank you for the resource! On a quick aside. The reason I was told by my grandfather, who was a master rose gardner on the angled cut, was to keep any water from pooling in the tiny depression formed as the end dries out and getting into it and causing rot. I think it’s a very unlikely thing, but I can’t stop myself from cutting them on an angle. 😉