Wet sanding is a process used to refine and smooth the surface of your boat’s fiberglass. It involves using a combination of water and abrasive materials to gently remove a thin layer of the gelcoat. Before starting the process, it is essential to prepare the area where you will be working, prepare a bucket of water, put on gloves and safety gear, begin wet sanding, rinse off the boat’s surface, dry the boat’s surface, and apply polish or wax (optional).
Wet sanding can be messy and contain toxic chemicals, so it is crucial to wear goggles, mask, and gloves before starting the process. Discover Wet Sanding 101, your ultimate guide to mastering the art of wet sanding your boat for a flawless finish. Essential tips, techniques, and tools are needed to bring your get coat back to life quickly and in fewer steps with the proper wet sanding tips and techniques.
The key to wet sanding is leaving as much material as possible, being careful not to break through the existing gel coat, which is not very thick. The absolute rule of thumb is to start with the least abrasive grit that will get the job done, whether it’s sanding or compounding. Start by spraying the hull liberally with the water/soap mixture and press the pad to the surface you’ll be working on.
In summary, wet sanding is a method used to remove surface scratches and restore the finish to its original condition. It involves using a combination of water and abrasive materials to gently remove a thin layer of the gelcoat.
📹 How to Wet Sand a Boat Properly ⛵️ (Remove Fiberglass Oxidation & Restore Faded Gelcoat)
Hey guys! Today I’ll show you how to wet sand your fiberglass boat to get rid of the fade and restore the perfect shine of your bass …
Is it better to wet sand or dry sand?
Wet sanding is a method of sanding surfaces using water or a lubricant, which affects the type of abrasives and finishing process. It creates less airborne dust, making it safer for indoor use and providing a smoother finish. Wet sanding is effective in achieving superior finishes and addresses issues associated with traditional dry sanding. One significant advantage is its ability to reduce dust production, as water traps dust particles and prevents them from becoming airborne. This makes it ideal for high-quality surfaces like auto bodies and fine furniture.
Is it better to sand wet or dry?
Wet sanding is a process that involves sanding surfaces to create a cleaner, glossier surface. It is particularly beneficial for interior projects, as it minimizes mess and dust accumulation. Wet sanding is necessary when achieving an ultra glossy finish without skipping any steps, as it can be noticeable in the end and may lead to a need to fix mistakes, which can add time to the process. The choice of sanding depends on the project and desired look, such as a glossy finish on car, furniture, or wooden guitars.
If a matte or brushed finish is desired, wet sanding is likely not necessary. To achieve a glossy finish, dry sand first and then wet sand. If a mirror-like finish is desired, buffing and polishing can be used. Overall, wet sanding is essential for creating a professional and polished surface in interior projects.
Can I use soapy water for wet sanding?
To clean a surface, cut sandpaper in half lengthways and soak the bottom half in water for 5 minutes. The top half should remain dry to attach to the squeegee or handle. Attach a suitable grit of sandpaper to a sanding tool and sand in a back-and-forth motion, applying light pressure. Take time to determine the required pressure, as too much can damage deeper layers of paint and make the process more difficult. The paint should seep into the water, tinting it and seeping into scratches and scuffs. If the water darkens, it’s usually a sign of excessive pressure.
Do you need a special sander to wet sand?
Wet sanding is a finishing process that requires specific waterproof sandpaper and is typically done by hand. It typically uses high-grit sandpaper from 1000 grit to 3000 grit and above, while dry sanding typically begins with 600- or 800-grit sandpaper. A backing pad is recommended for uniform finish. Wet sanding is done in a straight line, first horizontally and then vertically. Wet sanding adds another element to achieve a smooth, lasting finish, while dry sanding is a more aggressive approach that allows for quick removal of material with low-grit sandpaper. Dry sanding can be done by hand or with power tools, but typically uses small circles to remove material and minimize deep scratches.
What liquid to use when wet sanding?
Wet sanding involves using water to lubricate sandpaper, WD-40 for bare metal, and detergent to reduce water tension on the surface. Most sandpaper requires a backing pad to prevent folding and create a smoother finish. Sanding blocks can be purchased for wet sanding, especially in drywall. To achieve a uniform finish, use linear movements with perpendicular motions, going horizontal and then vertical or vice versa. The ridges and valleys of fingers can easily translate to a surface when using a sanding block. Sanding blocks are most commonly used in drywall sanding.
Should you use soapy water when wet sanding?
The text posits that although soap is not a prerequisite for optimal outcomes, its inclusion may prove beneficial in preventing paper clogging and paper grabbing. In the event that detergent is employed, it is imperative that a thorough cleansing be conducted with a prep sol or an analogous solution prior to the application of a clear coat. To achieve the longest lasting result, it is recommended to use 600-grit sandpaper and spray clear coating. Additionally, the text references the utilization of assorted grits of wet and dry for the attainment of optimal outcomes.
Can you wet sand a boat with an orbital sander?
The answer is no, as hand sanding edges is not recommended if there is no interface pad or the gel coat is thin. To achieve the best results, machine sanding with a 6 inch, 8mm orbital polisher/sander with an interface pad is recommended. Set the machine on no higher than two to reduce the possibility of pigtails. Ending at the lowest possible grit will provide the best results in terms of gloss and depth. For example, cutting after 1000 grit makes a glossier finish than cutting after 3000 grit, but requires less polishing stages.
Mirka Abralon, a mesh abrasive with a built-in interface pad, is recommended for its effectiveness. A 500 grit disc should be used only when 1000 grit is not effective in removing severe oxidation and dead gel coat.
Do you wet sand with water?
Wet sanding is a sanding process that uses water or another liquid as lubrication to wash away grit particles, preventing sandpaper from building up with material and causing scratches. The best liquid for most materials is water with a small amount of detergent, which reduces scuffing and helps wet paper and material completely. WD-40 can be used as a lubricant for bare metal sanding. The purpose of wet sanding is to achieve an even surface finish after dry sanding, as it removes large scratches left by dry sanding. If done correctly, the surface will gradually level out, and the scratches will become smaller until they are no longer visible when light reflects off of them.
Do you need soap to wet sand?
To clean paint, wet sandpaper with automotive soap in a bucket of water to prevent burning. Cut the sandpaper in half lengthways and soak the bottom half in the water for 5 minutes. The top half should remain dry to attach to the handle.
Sand the affected area with a suitable grit of sandpaper and a sanding tool, applying light pressure as you go. It may take time to determine the required pressure, as too much can damage deeper layers of paint and make the process more difficult. Applying light pressure helps prevent damage and ensures a smooth finish.
How do you wet sand properly?
This procedure involves wet sanding a surface to remove paint imperfections. The severity of the paint finish determines the grit of sandpaper used. Start with 1000 grit, ensuring the area is wet before sanding. Apply light to medium pressure, evenly gliding across the surface. Rinse away excess sanding material and keep both the sandpaper and surface well lubricated.
Next, move onto 1500 grit sandpaper to remove slight imperfections. After achieving a smooth surface, finish with 2000 grit sandpaper. Rinse the area thoroughly and apply a polishing compound to a soft cloth. Apply water if the compound drys out, making it more workable.
Next, use a scratch removing product to remove most fine scratches. Add a light spray of water to the scratch remover if it drys out while rubbing it into the painted surface. Clean off any excess polishing compound or scratching removing product before moving onto the wax stage. When waxing paint, ensure that it has cured, as the wax can prevent proper curing. Rub the wax into the surface thoroughly and let it sit on the surface for a minute before wiping down the surface.
Do you polish after wet sanding?
After wet sanding, use inexpensive polishes to restore paint shine. These can be applied by hand or with a random orbital tool. Although polishers may not be as effective as hands, they save muscle energy and are less likely to burn through thin paint than high-speed buffers. After polishing, apply a coat of P21S carnauba wax, which is not inexpensive but easily applies and creates a nice shine.
📹 How To Wet Sand A Boat | Full Boat Detailing Tutorial | My EXACT System! | Revival Marine Care
Want to learn How To Wet Sand A Boat? In this video I go over my exact system for Wet Sanding A Boat. This video is a full Boat …
Looks great! If you’re scared to do this I would suggest starting by hand! with 800 grit and going all the way to highest level of paper you can get.. did my 04 skeeter bass boat and it turned out great!! Looks like new again! Take your time keep the paper wet and don’t move to the next grit too fast! Work in small areas and keeping the paper wet is the most important part. Get a bucket of water and keep it soaked! Good luck. Thanks for the article!
Hi, what DA tool and rotary buffer do you recommend for the DIY? I’m not looking to do this professionally but I do own two boats which I would like to bring out the shine. One of the boats, I removed the registration numbers and you can still see them as “shadows” on the hull. This particular boat’s hull still has a decent shine but the numbers thing is bothering me and I figured that now that I have the numbers off, it would be good idea to at least compound the hull and I am hoping I can remove the shadows with just compound rather than wet sanding. Thanks in advance!
I’m working on a 1988 38′ Carver yacht. It had a lot of mold, mildew and algea on it when we bought the boat. We hired a pressure washing company to pressure wash the boat. It appears they used bleach in their pressure washer and it etched the gelcoat. Will sanding and polishing bring that back do you think? Or am I just screwed? Lol
Well damn after reading the comments i feel i stuffed up, I took the name paint off my glass boat with 240gr on a 2 inch drill pad it worked a treat but there’s still ghosting, i moved onto 320 then 600 then did the whole side with 800, there’s a few small scratches i sanded out with the 800 too, I’m a bit hesitant to polish with that ghosting but am concerned about using the more abrasive discs again. Edit, the boat is 20 years old and white.
I have a bass boat with a bright red sparkly gel coat and it is absolutely faded. 0 shine. The sparkles shine a little but the coat is faded as ever. Can someone point me in the right direction of a good grinder for this? Im guessing i cant just use a milwaukee or dewalt angle grinder? Or maybe i can? Does it gotta be a certain rpm like buffing?
Good article but starting at 320 grit is way too aggressive. You’re going to take away way too many micron layers of your gel coat after you do this a few times you literally will be burning through it. You can get away with starting at an 800 or 1000 on a DA and then go up from there to maybe a 2500 and buff it off of that This method you’re doing would take way too much time to get rid of all your sanding marks, but that’s just my opinion There is definitely more than one way to do the job. It’s just what I’ve seen work for me over many years. The coarser u go on your paper, the more steps you have to take and you will always have swirl marks left over some places
45degree shots in the afternoon sun shows nothing of what this job is about. I’m sorry friend. Show us this process pointing directly on the gel coat and in direct sunlight. That’s when you see the quality of your work. I also feel that you’re using WAY to much product on your pad. Rubbing and polishing is not about using force at all. It tells you that you’ve not done the wetsanding steps good enough. IMO – just what I see in this article. Good luck. Looks like you made it to the finish line.
In my humble opinion, compound is all you need. A rotary and a wool pad. I’d have that gelcoat done in no less than 6 hours and it’d last. If you took me seriously, you’d make more money and have more time for better boats and more clients. Wetsanding is so 20th century. Even done right, waste of time 99% of the time.
Yo Drake, I just got into detailing boats about two years ago in New Jersey and I just stumbled into your articles recently. The results you get are incredible and the tips are truly helping me! I have been perusal and yes of course liking as many articles as I can. I have so many questions as I am perusal about certain nuances but just slowly picking up more as I watch more articles. Regardless, thank you very much and keep the articles coming, no detail of how you get the job done right is too small to share!
Great article!! I snagged most of these products and had to start with hand wet sanding 320, 600, 1000. Other than that followed the steps. Boat is a 98 Hewes redfish 18 that looked like it has never been waxed or polished. It came out looking like new! Wish I could upload the photos!! Thx again for sharing!!! Mad props to you, took me 6hrs to do the left side!
Dude… you’re articles are taking my detailing to from a good detailer, to a grrrreat detailer. Definitely going to add the grios and flex to the arsenal! I’m a Marine tech by trade… but detailed for awhile when I first got into the field, and with a buddy with his own detailing business in Florida. So I’m atech first, detailer second… between consulting w/ my buddy and perusal your articles, it’s really helped me alot in just the few days of discovering your articles. I just started my own marine service & detail business last summer, so I’ve been getting back into buffing/ detailing again and i was having a problem with this boat i was buffing and saw one of your articles and it immediately helped me. I was working it too fast. Slowed it down & followed the side/side- up/down- side/ side method and BAM. Been perusal/ listening to your articles all day today and learned a FUCK LOAD. from tools, products, pricing, quoting, what to look for and learning the wet sanding process. Just wanted to give you a shout out! And idk if you’re the one doing the article editing or not…but it’s phenomenal. Very engaging, good music and you do a kick ass job explaining everything. Now get your products back in stock so i can buy your shit!
Ive been a detailer for 23 years now and it looks like you really have it down well.I use the Rupes and the Makita orbital with a double sided wool pad.I use Sonax compounds and they work great, little dust and don’t dry out fast.Also 99 percent of my jobs are now ceramic coated, that stuff is amazing.
First of all, beautifully done! All through the article i was wondering why you did not do the bottom of the boat. Yes, i know, it’s a lot of work, but it keeps the boat in pristine condition. And when you do this on a yearly basis, the amount of work is doable. Thanks again for all the informative article’s.
Ever tried Smoove products? If not, try just 1 bottle of the pro cut. I have brought some boats that were overcooked in the Florida sun back to life with that stuff and a wool pad. Loved the article and your attention to detail is impressive! I do restorations (mostly classic Makos) and seems like biggest part of restoration once structural and cosmetic repairs are made, im just an underpaid, glorified and well…broke detailer. Lol. I kind of do what ThatBoatGuy does, however, he finds all the good deals on facebook market.
Awesome articles! I’ve got a 10 year old 21ft Tidewater bay boat I’ve owned since new and have some yellowing, especially on the console. I can’t wait to try this! A couple of questions.. 1) What speed do you run the Abralon pads? 2) I have dual chrome looking vinyl stripes running along the water line. Can I run over these and the decals with all of the steps or should I avoid them with the Abralons? 3) Can I use 303 Fabric on vinyl cushions? 4) What boat do you personally have? We go to Orange Beach for a week every summer and run between FloraBama Yacht Club, Pirates Cove and Robinson’s Island. Thanks for hooking us up with the articles! Mark from Oxford, MS.
I left a comment and ask a question while perusal. Now that the article in over I just have to say that you really know what you are doing. I have sanded and buffed for years and could leave a book of advice. But still I am very impressed!!.. My knowledge or skill with a buffer doesn’t even touch yours….
Beautiful job. I had my boat detailed this spring and the black hull came out great, but the gentleman told me that the white topsides and interior were too far oxidized to restore. When I saw your process it made me think that I was mis-informed…as long as you don’t go through the gelcoat, it can be brought back. What are your thoughts on this matter?
I only wish I had the skills to get my recently purchased 1985 Tiara Pursuit looking that good. I’m dealing with good gel coat under old stickers and heavy oxidation on the rest. I’d be happy if it looked half as good as this boat did when you started. I have picked a few techniques though, so it should help. Thanks
I feel like having your articles is like a cheat code😂. It saves us so much time.😊 One question, where I come from there are no ardex 600 but I find some Meguiers oxidation removal(heavy cut compound it says) do you thing it will work the same? And no such a thing as forced pads, there is some Chemical guys pads, rupes and a lot cheap no names, what I need to look for when choosing one? Any difference in steps doing sea boats? Thank you for everything, God bless 🙏👍
I am purchasing a 1999 Key West Boat 2220 CC. The in and out needs restoration. Do I need to wet sand or can I do a good wash and then go into the Starke R and then the Starke Medium? or the Menzerna? or the Presta Gel Coat compound? So many products, not sure the best order of product to use with having to restore. Also, what is the best way to remove old decals and if I am going to replace decals when is the best time to apply back on the boat? is it after the compound? Trying to be on a budget. What should be done with the bottom up to the waterline?
It’s boat prep season so I’m revisiting Your articles. I was trying to timeline your articles to see if you were not using LevelR at the time you made this article. The Hatteras was more oxidized than this and you did not wet sand. Was that because it was paint or because you were not using LevelR by the time you shot this. After a solid 10 hours behind a rotary using LevelR, I am surprised at a wet sand on this boat.
Thanks for sharing the solid knowledge. I’m about to get my boat back in shape and had a question…..After pulling the pin striping and stickers from my boat there was a surprising difference between the finish under the stickers and the good looking finish on the sides. Is it possible to get the gel coat closer to the original shine/luster (under the stickers) by using this method IE wet sanding, buffing, and polishing?
Drake, thanks for another great article. Drake, I feel a bit vulnerable around boat graphics and decals, especially those that have custom printed (as opposed to lettering). I’m aware that vinyldecals differ in their composition, but do you have any general advice about polishing (and maybe sanding) around these basting things? Pleased help. Gratitude!
wow nice work and great description of the products and their uses, Not that it really matters, but the pattern you are using i have hear it being referred to as basket weave or checker board, basically you work is similar to car paint correction, just its more aggressive but now that i have a boat i am going to use your articles as my research, thanks so much for sharing your process, regards, PS can you get anything from clay barring a boat? Mac
Thanks for the Great article! You mentioned that the Menzerna 400 is more of a polish on gel coat boats! I have a boat where some graphics have been painted over the gel coat and then a Clear Coat shot over the paint. In these areas where the paint occurs would you recommend to maintain the same process as outlined in your article or should I go lighter of a cut in those painted areas? Thanks for your help!
Drake, question for you that you detailers never seem to talk about when wet sanding and rubbing. How do you wet sand and rub around decals, lettering and raised lettering without burning through or tearing them off and getting in between the letters, both decal and raised. Any info, tricks of the trade and help would be much appreciated. Maybe you could do a article on that topic, I cant be the only one to ask. Thanks…
I have a 1990 Ranger Bass Boat that has been pretty well preserved. It has a metal flake cap and sides and a gray gelcoat hull (non-metallic) Actually it was stored covered in a shed and the front bow was exposed to the sun and the hull has faded. I want to restore the entire boat. Can you cut this finish. I have detailed cars and have decent tools and equipment. I’m just not familiar how forgiving the gelcoat is and how much I can or need to cut. I also watch these articles on a white, non-metal flake or even a finish with color in it. Does your same process and advice remain the same on a smaller, metal flake with color, fiberglass bass boat. I wish you could attach photos on youtube like you can on Facebook
Another great article, thank you. Have you done this type of work in boat storage facilities? Do any of the products you used here require special cleanup or disposal from an environmental perspective? I plan to detail my boat in while in winter storage (outdoors) in New Jersey, and most marina’s include rules in their contracts that seem to require drop cloths and such (although it’s not clear if it applies to this kind of work). For example: “Owner must place drop cloths beneath the vessel when sanding and painting and must properly dispose of all paint chips, debris, etc. The owner agrees to clean and police the work area prior to the launch of the vessel. Boat owners shall be responsible for any toxic material, which is generated from the boat owner’s vessel. ANY DISCHARGE FROM VESSEL RESULTING IN SOIL CONTAMINATION WILL AUTOMATICALLY SUBJECT OWNER TO SOIL REMEDIATION CHARGES WHICH WILL BE BASED UPON SIZE OF CONTAMINATED AREA. Vessel owners must keep the areas clean and free of debris around where the vessel is stored or the Marina will do so at the owner’s expense.”
Hey bro wondering if you can help me out I got an inquiry about a job 33 foot boat but it’s in the water are looking to get it buffed it has faded paint, How can I go about doing this I was thinking maybe getting a rubber dinghy But I can’t go all the way to the water with my buffing pad, I don’t really know if I should try and do the job or just tell them I can’t do it wondering if you could help me out let me know your thoughts thanks
Drake great job man and very good articles. I absolutely dont know anything about any kind of sanding. Your articles and teaching makes it very easy to understand. I started on my sea ray 370 today and was scared to death to put sand paper on it but went with it.. When I got my boat a few months ago it was and is VERY chalky and oxidation very heavy. I am using the products I have on hand and hope it all pans out.. I started all by hand with 600, 800, 1000, and 1500 sandpaper. I am using the marine31 heavy oxidation and then the polish and wax to finish. Looks like a very deep shine.. I taged you on Facebook with so stared up pics.. Thanks man and keep up good work.. will continue to follow all articles…
I just recently got a bass boat. Has that bright red sparkly gel coat.. well it has it under the accessory mounts and what not lol. Anyhow I’ve been hand sanding 400 grit and it looks better but it’s not matching the color yet. Is it possible to bring the original color back out? Boat hasn’t been cleaned in years. Its faded pretty bad. Wednesday I’m gonna hop back on it with and orbital. I did it by hand for a couple hours but it is exhausting and unfortunately I’m still getting that white shit. I’m guessing it’ll be a better and much easier finish if I use my orbital sander?
Hey bro I got a boat that’s heavily oxidized tried using oxidation remover with a buffing pad it worked a little bit but not very good then I tried using 1500 grit sandpaper Came out a little better but not very well also I plan on getting 800 grit and 1000 grit What do you think? Also I was going to buy a palm sander Do you know of any that are safe to do with wet sanding? Thanks
Drake – I just finished wetsanding the toe rail and inside walls of my 17′ Sea Pro CC and it turned out great. When I went to wetsand the hull w/ 1000 grit, it left swirl marks all over. Is this normal and should I move on to 1200, 1500, then compound? I didn’t leave any swirl marks on the rail or inside walls.
I have a white boat that is heavily oxidized and real chaulky. I ordered some 500,1000,2000 Mirka abralon & some Abranet 800,1000 6inch disc. I’ll be using the Griots G9 da for sanding with the foam interface pad. Could you tell me what order I should go with these different grit sizes. I know in one of your other articles you had mentioned that the Abranet cuts a lot more aggressive than the Abralon. I was thinking maybe go with the Abranet 800 or 1000 first and then go Abralon 500 and up? Also do you still recommend the interface pads from Amazon that you linked in you other article. Do they hold up pretty good? Thank you for any help!
You should see some of the hack jobs in NY, these guys on longisland suck. Every single one of them. Boating world in NY is a joke, almost all mechanics/detailers will hit an entire boat with heavy cut and call it a day. If there’s chalk, forget it, they don’t know and don’t want to be apart of it. Only clean gel coat, absolute joke over here. Good job man for doing the right thing I wish I knew someone that can do my boat, I’m not a detailer but I like to keep things clean I’ve had bad luck with 6 people so far. And I have pictures and end junk (quality) to show it.