This beginner’s guide provides essential information on starting seeds in a seed starter greenhouse. Seeds should be germinated in temperatures around 70 to 80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with nighttime light, and can be started in early spring or after the last frost date. To ensure best success, start seeds in the greenhouse around six to eight weeks before the final expected frost date for your area.
For fast-growing tender plants like courgettes, squashes, pumpkins, cucumbers, French beans, melons, and sweetcorn, start them off gradually for an hour or two, then move onto a few hours before leaving them to fend for themselves. Germination takes 14-45 days after the warming period.
For best results, start seeds 6-8 weeks before your zone’s average last frost date. Start seeds in the greenhouse around six to eight weeks before the final expected frost date for your area. Cool season plant seeds that grew best when direct seeded into the soil before the last frost can be started as well.
To ensure successful seeding, start by using fresh seed and test for germination first if using leftover seed from the previous year. For best results, germinate seeds in temperatures around 70 to 80 degrees F. and provide light for the newly germinated seedlings.
📹 Seed Starting Masterclass: Complete Guide to Grow Seedlings
Seed Starting Masterclass covers everything you ever wanted to know on how to grow seeds into healthy and strong seedlings.
Can a greenhouse be too hot for seedlings?
To ensure optimal greenhouse ventilation, use a maximum-minimum thermometer to monitor the temperature and be alert for signs of plant damage. Open doors and vents on sunny days, and temporarily remove panes to help during heat waves. Fit automatic vent openers to ensure roof vents open even when you’re not around, but remember that it takes time for the wax to expand. Provide alternative ventilation such as doors and side vents to prevent damaging temperatures. In changeable weather, vents and doors may need to be partially open to limit sudden temperature increases. Larger greenhouses may require automated ventilation and shading.
Shading is usually required from mid-spring until early autumn to release some heat but limits the light plants receive. Use only the minimum amount of shading to keep temperatures below 25-27ºC (77-81ºF), allowing as much light in as possible, especially for edible plants like tomatoes. Sun-loving plants like succulents may not need shading, but providing shade can make the greenhouse more pleasant.
Will seeds germinate in a greenhouse?
Growing seeds in a greenhouse allows for control over the plant’s environment, allowing for sowing at any time of year, depending on your climate zone’s winter temperatures. This allows for easy transition of greenhouse-grown flowers, fruits, and vegetables to your garden. Seeds can be ordered based on desired plants, with options for organic non-GMO seeds. Careful planting directions, including temperature, depth, and care, are essential. To prevent fungal disease, use sterile seed-starting trays and soil, and regularly disinfect the greenhouse with diluted bleach.
What temperature should a greenhouse be for seedlings?
Starting plants for transplanting into gardens in the spring should be done in greenhouses six to eight weeks before the last expected frost date. Seeds should germinate in temperatures between 70 to 80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with night temperatures not dropping below 50 to 55 degrees F. The greenhouse temperature should be carefully monitored, as it can get cooler at night. Seedling heat mats can help maintain consistent soil temperatures, and greenhouses with fans or windows can vent hot ones.
Seeds are usually started in open flat seed trays or individual plug trays, prepared according to their specific needs. Seeds are planted in well-spaced rows for easy thinning, watering, fertilizing, and treating diseases.
Should I open my plastic greenhouse in the day?
To ensure optimal greenhouse ventilation, use a maximum-minimum thermometer to monitor the temperature and be alert for signs of plant damage. Open doors and vents on sunny days, and temporarily remove panes to help during heat waves. Fit automatic vent openers to ensure roof vents open even when you’re not around, but remember that it takes time for the wax to expand. Provide alternative ventilation such as doors and side vents to prevent damaging temperatures. In changeable weather, vents and doors may need to be partially open to limit sudden temperature increases. Larger greenhouses may require automated ventilation and shading.
Shading is usually required from mid-spring until early autumn to release some heat but limits the light plants receive. Use only the minimum amount of shading to keep temperatures below 25-27ºC (77-81ºF), allowing as much light in as possible, especially for edible plants like tomatoes. Sun-loving plants like succulents may not need shading, but providing shade can make the greenhouse more pleasant.
What seeds grow best in a greenhouse?
Salad vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, and lettuce are easy to grow and have high yields. They thrive in greenhouses and can be grown up a trellis or wall to save space. Other staples like pole beans and snap peas can also be grown in this configuration. Greens, such as cut and come-again lettuces and microgreens, are essential for a salad and require shallow containers. Onions, carrots, kale, cabbage, and broccoli are also suitable for greenhouses. Cold-hardy plants like leafy and bitter greens and root vegetables can keep you eating fresh all year. Remember to leave space for harvesting these vegetables.
How long to start seeds indoors before planting?
Starting seeds indoors is recommended six to eight weeks before the last frost in your area, as most plants are ready to go outside four to six weeks after starting the seeds. Starting seeds indoors offers a less expensive way to populate your garden, as most vegetables and ornamental plants can be started from seeds. Each plant has its own specific needs for starting seeds indoors, such as seed depth, growing medium, and water and light exposure.
To start most types of seeds indoors, choose the right container, select a spot with enough light, and augment the space with grow lights and a heat mat if necessary. Keep seeds moist but not too wet, and gently prepare them for the outdoors by hardening them off.
What month do you start seeds in a greenhouse?
Plants grow quickly in greenhouses, so it’s not advisable to start seeds indoors before early March or early April. Plants will reach for light, which can be a problem for some growers. To prevent this, they should start seeds under a clear plastic cover and remove it when the seeds sprout. It’s also important to ensure that the growing tips are within 15 cm of LED or fluorescent lights to prevent stretching.
Plants grow faster and taller in warm conditions, especially under grow-lights indoors. The heat is higher than in natural conditions outside, so indoor grow-lights are ideal. If temperature adjustments aren’t possible, adding wind can strengthen stems and keep them shorter. A small fan can help move air around plants, strengthening them and keeping them shorter. Add a fan to your indoor grow-op or greenhouse growing area immediately.
What seeds need darkness to germinate?
Light plays a crucial role in the germination of certain crops, such as ageratum, begonia, browallia, impatiens, lettuce, and petunia, while others germinate best in the dark. Seed catalogs and packets usually indicate light requirements, but when sowing light-requiring seeds, do not bury them. If covered, lightly cover them with fine peat moss or vermiculite to allow light to reach the seeds. Provide supplemental light by suspending fluorescent lights six to 12 inches above the seeds for 18 hours per day. Oxygen is essential for germination, and a loose and well-aerated growing medium is essential. Limited oxygen supply can severely retard or inhibit germination.
Do you need grow lights to start seeds in a greenhouse?
Seedlings should be placed close to windows or in a greenhouse with the most light to ensure optimal growth. Artificial light sources, such as T5 fluorescents, can help maintain compactness and health of seedlings. These lights are highly effective and inexpensive, making them a valuable tool for starting seeds. Starting seeds in a greenhouse or indoors at the right time, with proper medium, atmospheric conditions, and lighting, can lead to higher germination success and healthy seedlings ready for the upcoming growing season. For more information, visit arcadiaglasshouse. com. Start your seeds at the right time and provide the proper medium, atmospheric conditions, and lighting to ensure a successful growing season.
Can you start seeds in an unheated greenhouse?
Seedlings can germinate in an unheated greenhouse during colder months, such as late winter to early spring. They can be placed in their seed starting trays or pots when they are still tiny, and can be transplanted when they have just two sets of leaves upwards, usually 2-4 weeks old. The ideal temperature for starting seedlings in an unheated greenhouse is around 18 degrees Celsius or 65 Fahrenheit, with a nighttime temperature of around 10 degrees Celsius or 50 Fahrenheit. Too much temperature drop can hinder seedling development, and anything over 24 degrees Celsius or 75 Fahrenheit is considered too warm.
Can seeds germinate without warmth?
It should be noted that not all seeds require the use of a heat mat. This is due to the fact that certain crops, such as lettuce, spinach, and peas, are capable of germinating effectively at room temperature. The optimal germination temperature for spinach is 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Once germination is complete, the heat mat should be disconnected in order to prevent undue stress to the roots and the potential for the plants to bolt. This ensures the optimal conditions for seed germination while preventing electricity waste.
📹 Seed Starting Success: Sow Like a Pro! 🌱
Let’s start at the very beginning; a very good place to start. When you read you begin with ABC, when you GROW you begin with …
When using trays, I always sow just one seed in each cell unit. I achieve redundancy by sowing 3 times the plants I need. Say, I want 4 plants, then I populate all the 12 cells of a small 3 x 4 tray. Even with old seeds, I end up with at least 5-6 beautiful plants. When time comes to plant them outside, I offer the excess to some friends and neighbors, they never go to waste.
Forget Christmas 🎅🏻 I think this is the most wonderful time of the year 🤣 seed starting is the best feeling of hope & new beginnings for the new year. There’s nothing better than getting your hands in the soil again & the smell of damp soil when you open your greenhouse!!! Great article as always Ben 👍🏻 happy gardening everyone 🌱☀️👩🌾💚
This guy is adorable and he just saved me from purchasing some unnecessary clutter. I was looking at buying some seedling heating mats but have never used them and didn’t know if they were worth the cost. I also just decluttered and am averse to buying things I don’t absolutely need. My seedlings will be going on top of my giant, American fridge in my kitchen. Thanks!
I gave my first seeds of the year a bath in a chamomile tea, for a couple of hours. So they could suck full of moisture before they came into the soil. I was really surprised how good that worked. I had the first green leafs on the 3rd day (cocktail tomato and sugar melon). Most sweet peppers showed up after only 7-10 days. That was really incredible. I did the first sowing about 2 weeks ago and added the seeds of salads, radish, onions, chard, brassicas, and some flowers during the following days (based on the moon calender). In between almost every single seed did germanite. It was the first time i tried out the bathing method. I guess i’ll keep on doing this for the following sowings. 😊🌱 Wish you all a good start into the new gardening season! 💚
Ben, I keep harping on the garden planner, but, it has taken a load off of my “when to” list. One big mistake I have been making is my timing. I had no idea a few of my seeds needed to be started outside- only. A couple of days ago, I had my trays and seeds ready. I stopped to check my planner and got a shooo, moment. Outside- in 2 weeks. For new gardeners- the planner will more than pay for itself when you don’t lose seedlings for planting at the wrong time, or the wrong location. And, the bigger thing you can save is stress of figuring it all out by yourself! Stick with Ben and most of all- don’t stop because you made mistakes. I have been “trying” to grow a garden for 20 years….I refuse to stop trying for those reasons! 😁 It’s nice to go outside and see what the squirrels left me for dinner. 😅
I use an old electric blanket for bottom heat for germination. It works perfectly, especially for the heat loving plants, and especially because my cottage is never overly warm 🤓 Okay, I’m finished binge perusal your articles now. Thanks for doing your part to help me get through the winter while I wait for garden season to begin again.
Have always had a dream for my own veg plot. I had low confidence as any success was short lived and didn’t come to fruition. Was confused in how and what to start with . After searching online, for advice, I could relate to found your articles calm and easy to understand . all my questions were answered I was too embarrassed to ask. Thank you for not over complicating the beauty of growing my own veg .
Every year we get so excited about starting seeds that we start too soon. Not ready a bad idea, but they get so big and we have so many that we run out of room. We don’t have a greenhouse, so in the house they stay. I did purchase two smaller greenhouse/netting set ups which will allow for room outside this year. I will be starting bunching onions and cabbages in the next couple weeks, and tomatoes and peppers in March. Thank you for all your tips, suggestions and inspiration! Happy planting from Missouri, USA.
Tomato seeds sown a week ago are germinating nicely, I’ve started them early for a few years now following the advice of a neighbour who has many years more experience. This year I’m trying a mix of seed compost and vermiculite for the first time. I always water my tray or pot before adding seeds so that there is less chance of them floating around after careful positioning. Many thanks for another really useful article.
I’ve been really liking the Garden Myths (he has a blog and a YouTube website) improved kitchen towel/baggy method for sowing seeds. They basically take up almost no room until they’ve germinated, and then you know that you aren’t wasting compost/pots/trays or windowsill space on non-viable seed, or seed that is going to take weeks to germinate. I currently have far more pepper/chili seeds in my tiny propagator than I could fit in there if I’d sown them into pots or module trays. Well worth checking out!
Me and my granddaughter are starting our own veg plot this year, we planned starting our brasicas and onion seeds this weekend, but it’s been so cold wet and windy we decided to spend our time in doors coudled up perusal Disney instead, no chance of potting seeds indoors the wife would kill us 😂 there’s always next week, onions cabbage cauliflower brocoli will be our first seeds in, in the past I’ve been so busy working 6/7 days a week the only thing I was good at is buying the seeds 😂 but she has inspired me to give it a go, I’ve cleared the garden and we will hopefully have 3 raised beds for March, we can put our seed trays indoors once planted up, I don’t mind wet and cold I can’t stand strong winds I hate been outdoors on windy days, so next weekend hopefully 😉
My remarkably sturdy kale is still going strong (about four winters old now I think) and I gathered a bunch of its seeds last year. Planning on planting some of the best looking seeds from that this year. Hoping I’ll manage to gather seeds from them eventually and help to evolve this kale to my environment as much as I can.
I keep a handwritten journal to record what I have sewn and where and when. I could use the one in the planner, but I like writing in my pretty notebooks….lol. I write everything in there, what where and when as well as when the seeds pop and when the first leaves show, when they are planted up into pots and when I start to harden them off. When I do start in pots I use clear plastic bottles as covers. They work great because the lids can be taken off to allow for ventilation.
I germinated on damp paper towel in Tupperware covered with plastic wrap, then transferred into plug trays. I got 100% germination on almost everything! I don’t have heating mats so my other option was to leave the trays outside, but there was a thunderstorm and the trays filled up with water and drowned the seeds and all the perlite floated to the top 😂 so I tried again with the paper towel and it worked great!
Thanks for the tips, I have mentioned before about my big garden project,it’s going really well,and I have started sowing flower and veg seeds,with about 60,% growth success,I have learned from my mistakes,and I have maybe being getting carried away a bit,but it’s has brought joy,I just love it when the seeds start popping up,with you help on your website I can only get better,👍
I’ve only recently stumbled onto your website but I’m really enjoying the articles and their useful information. I have a small balcony and I managed to grow a few radishes and carrots in containers last year but most things didn’t germinate at all. This year I’m absorbing all the information I can and have lots of seeds starting off which is exciting 😀 I’m determined to have a successful container garden this year and having lots of fun learning!
I like the idea of using seeds from already existing plants (veg). Rather than always buying seeds. I grew peppers last year from the seeds of the peppers we were eating. I watched a article recently where a slice of tomato was put into soil and a Timelapse article showed the sprouting, it was fascinating.
Hi Ben, You are the man for the beginner, like me, you are so informative you give the new guy the confidence to not worry so much. I shall be looking forward to the next one you mentioned for beginners, and hope you won’t mind people asking you things they are not sure of, although you do cover most things. I bought myself a couple of grow lights as I wasn’t happy with the window light, and having to turn pots etc round. Today I have put tomato, pepper, and lettuce. 10 days ago cauliflower, kale, carrots, and am hoping things work out as I see many professionals do a lot of early sowing so would like my trial to be ok.🤔😊👍
If you want to more strentgh seedlings you need to take them out for 1-2 hours daily if you don’t have enough time use a usb powered little fan (with programmable timer) for thick seedlings. When the seedlings swing by the air they produce hormone for thickness (what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger)
Hey Gentle Growers! I learn tricks with labels every year. This year, I select my seeds and then I write up my labels in my office even before heading out to the seed table. That means that if the cleaning fairies come into the office and put away all my seeds, I at least can find the labels and then fish the seeds out (again) from the seed box. I am grateful both the office fairies and those who keep me company in the bottom of the garden 😉 Cheers!
Going to try this for the first time tomorrow. We have.. bean pole, radish, cucumber, and watermelon to try from seed. The others are from the nursery ready to go. Possibly the watermelon is too soon, but it’s looking like a sunny, warm year where I live. Thank you for the tips, and I’ll be sure to try them.
I’m planning to start Tomatoes and peppers maybe end of March. I want to try something new this year. I have a large old heating blanket, ill spread it on my grow table and turn on the control settings so the earth will keep warm at all times while the germinate and start growing 😀 will have to put a plastic or something over the blanket to keep it dry or it might start to mold
I noticed your slug traps were open and not covered. I cut a two litre bottle in half and then trim another piece off each half the same width as the bottle which I use as a roof. The roof I staple to each side of both halves and fill with my slug bait allowing them to last longer free from dilution from rain.
Great tips, Ben! I’m starting my leeks and onions this week, and later this month will start celery, spinach and peppers. I started most of my veggies way too early last year and had no room to pot them on. I also just ordered a mini greenhouse that I hope will alleviate my small space woes this year.
You are so fun to watch and learn from! I love your easy-to-follow approach and light-heartness. Question: how does one stop cabbages from being ravaged by cabbage moths? I’ve tried companion planting, dish soap and water, washing the eggs off the leaves every day … nothing has ever worked for me! All my beautiful cabbages end up as chicken feed 100% of the time 😭 Thank you!
I’ve got some of my winter garden still in the ground, but the onion, garlic & potatoes are now planted as well as the tomatoes. The onions are sprouting. Just harvested the broccoli and cauliflower, but the cabbage is still trying to form heads. The Japanese eggplant from last spring survived all through summer here in Mesa, AZ and has been loaded with blooms and veggies. I’d like to expand my garden, but the north side of my house is shaded by the house.
I have been starting my own seeds indoors for 10 years and have great success. This year I am having a hard time getting excited about starting any. Last summer I fought with invasive grass in my garden beds and the mosquitos and ticks were awful. I dreaded going out to my garden. I lost a lot of harvest because of these factors.
I love your Himalayan honeysuckle beside your greenhouse, Ben! I miss mine at our old house; it was huge after I brought it back to life… May have to put it on my list of shrubs to add to the garden this year… I’ve already added hydrangea and buddleia for the wildlife last year and I know they love the cascading flowers of the Himalayan honeysuckle too. Keep up the good work, my garden planner has been amazing for my winter/spring layout amendments and planning already this year! Thanks. Sammi (Crewe, Cheshire) x
Thank you so much for your wonderful articles! I just discovered you recently and I am so grateful for your knowledge, how succinct you are, and your bright attitude! One thing I don’t understand is why we have to thin the seeds. Can you please explain that to me? Sometimes I have more success with something I am new at when I understand why I am doing it ha ha!
Growing maize seed I soaked the seeds in water then on a wet day after preparing the bed outdoor I planted the seeds about 3 inches deep it’s four days a few seeds have sprouted out their leaves only two leaves appeared, some still haven’t sprouted out today I watered it again looking for surprise tomorrow. Thank you
I’m going to try my hand at winter sowing for the first time this year. I’ve put out yellow and red onions, extra garlic cloves that I had leftover from fall, and prairie cone flower seeds so far. I’m going to try a variety of other seeds too as a scientific experiment, so I’ll know what works for next year as well. Thanks for your articles, all the best.
I’ve always had relatively good luck layering a garden soil/compost mix underneath a seeding mix and growing under a timed grow light and fan. The one thing I have never had luck with is Brassica, but I have a feeling that has more to do with the fact that we go from frozen to bolting temperature in the span of about 6 weeks.
With all the variability of a safe planting time here in 6B I will stagger-start tomato and pepper seeds. For most it’s recommended to start 6 to 8 weeks out. But it can be 3 or 4 weeks difference year to year on when it’s safe to put them in the ground, temperature wise, meaning early starts may be too tall and unstable to get a good start and late starts may be too small. So in a row of 5 cells I will start 2 cells at my most optimistic time, then 1 cell a week later, then 2 cells a week later. I give away the excess. This also is a good strategy for starting the continuous sowing plants like lettuce. I’ll stagger the starts to have a new plant go in the ground at useful intervals.
We got an allotment last year in November. And have just started to sow some things inside now. It’s very exciting stuff. Iv sown seeds into the plug trays with the lids with air holes? Unsure if they should be open or closed really sorry if I’m being dim haha. And also tried some tomato seeds inside a ziplock bag and kitchen roll. Did them last Wednesday and already sprung to life though not sure how big they need to be before planting on again into cell trays? Many thanks and I found you via instagram fab articles!
Ben, just a quick question about seed starting mix. Yours looks like it already has some moisture in it. Should you moisten the mix before loading your plug trays? It’s hard to get water into it if it’s dry…. and you risk washing away your seedlings. I’ve seen recommendations for both ways…what are your thoughts?
The biggest improvement I made in seed starting was purchasing a heat pad. I had tried epazote 1 year without the pad and had 0 germination. The seed company suggested the pad and sent a replacement pack of seeds. I was skeptical and didn’t think it was necessary. Using the pad, the new pack of seeds had over 90% germination. I looked at germination temperatures for what I start indoors and most have the best germination at 86°F. The pad has made a tremendous difference in my success rate especially in the warm weather plants. I highly recommend one. Started broccoli, salad greens, scallions, beets, alyssum and snapdragons. Going to start another batch of broccoli so the harvest is staggered a bit. Next up are tomatoes and peppers in a week or so to be followed by more flowers. Then it’s direct sowing of peas, spinach, beets and radish after I make the first of eight raised beds. Going to be a busy spring.
Got the sweet peas started a couple weeks ago, and lettuce this week. Leeks seeds refuse to germinate in two tries. But it’s early; I’ll try again. My basement growing space is small, so as the seedlings appear, I’ll move them to a glassed in porch. That’ll give them light and begin the hardening off. Learning as I go.
really enjoying all the advice but can I get either an explanation or a article about what potting mix is and how it’s different from just the soil in your garden or perhaps a mix of your own compost and soil. I see you using it every time you plant anything and it feels like if you have to buy it it’d be a large expense over a whole season, so do you make it yourself somehow or no?
Brilliant article, I am just starting my own self sufficiency journey and my seed sowing has been abysmal! From your article can you confirm is seeds for germination NEED light or does heat trump light in the germination phase? I have the perfect location if it just needs heat but I am struggling to identify a good place for light and heat as it moves around the house throughout the day so think I may need a grow light.
Just as I was starting to watch this article I decided to sort my seed packets the way you have. I found an old folder I used for seeds ages ago and I thought I had emptied it completely. Lo, and behold I found seeds from as far back as 2005!!! I can’t believe they’ve been with me for so long! Three house moves and I never found them! *facepalm. You bet ya I’ll try and germinate them to see what I can get lol
Before my grandfather used to plant his seedlings in the gardens he used to let the ducks run around for a while. He used to call them biological weed whackers they would eat the wild foliage but more importantly they devour pests especially slugs and snails. And also leave behind a high rich nutrient natural fertilizer. And then he would planted seedlings. So we would end up with a lot of homegrown fruits and vegetables organic raise duck, delicious duck eggs and it all seem to work out for my grandfather.
I use a commercial seed starting mix with fertilizer as part of the mix. If I am starting with seeds in 6 compartment trays and they are plants that need 8-12 weeks (under grow lights) before setting out, is there a point at which I should start watering with a dilute fertilzer solution? If there a way to tell by looking at the plants, and what, exactly is “dilute”? Love your planner!
These tips were super helpful, thank you for sharing! I wonder – how do you deal with leggy seedlings? I see that fans will help from the onset, but I do find that my tomatoes, peppers and cuke often get quite long and leggy and feel quite frail. Any recommendations for what to do both prior to prevent this, but also, reactively if it does happen – to tackle this issue?
thanks for sharing. If I break down the cost, from start to finish for me, I am better off going to the store. but the fun I have is priceless. the tomato I am growing is just too thin, the conditions its in,, will have to wait another month to start, but the cucumber man looks so strong and maybe a better one to start early for me, Yeah I can do a greenhouse but todays cost is way overpriced on glass, plexi and all. that is LIFE, just saying. i thank you for the vid
Just a crazy question……Do you end up with mystery plants no matter what? I don’t know why…..possibly grand children, but I always end up with something that does not belong. This past year was a surprise cucumber plant that grew in a tray of tomatoes. The seeds look nothing alike so I know I didn’t plant that seed in that tray….but there it was.
This year, i wanted to avoid the transplanting to save time and loss so i sowed in larger plug seed trays than usual. Unfortunately I had a lot of lost seedlings. Many just died out or struggled and were unhealthy. Im not sure if it was the different plug size or if something else happened. Is plug size a factor?
I had an old security camera laying around so I put it in my greenhouse pointing at the big patio thermometer, the heater, the fan & of course my tomato starts I have in solo cups. The idea is I can sit in my easy chair in the house & check on the temp & see if the heat is running or the fan. This camera snaps a pic every 1 minute for 1 minute plus a 1 min article. Each morn I review all my camera pics and when I hold down the key they all play as a fast slideshow. I can see the plants moving about sometimes they lean to the left, then they lean to the right & I can see them grow a bit taller. It is really neat to watch. REMEMBER>>> seeds are a miracle in a shell. !
First year gardening, no research, and it was successful. 2nd year, gained more knowledge, tried to utilize it, and it was literally hit or miss. This year, more research (to avoid last years fails) more info, but my seeds don’t even want to germinate in the tray! They sprout in the tissue. But when I put them in dirt?! Nope. Idk wtf is going on. I feel like all this info messed me up. I guess I have a natural green thumb, but trying to follow so many gardeners advice, I think messed me up. I planted my garden over a month ago and my greens are just sprouting. 2 years ago, I was harvesting them after 2 weeks.
I always wondered what the point of that “seed-starting” mix was, vs. just using potting soil, or God forbid, soil from your own garden. The finer granularity explanation makes a bit of sense; I hadn’t considered that aspect. Still…I call bollox on it in general. It’s annoying to saturate, it doesn’t really exist in the normal, natural conditions seeds have somehow gotten by with for millenia, and just seems like an unnecessary complication.
In the article you say it’s best to use peat free compost in order to lower co2 emissions. The planet is at a historically low co2 level in the atmosphere and is nowhere near optimal level (I can provide citation if required) and just to add that co2 is required by plants just as oxygen is to humans. If anything we should be using more peat in compost not less.
It’s so sad that gardening equipment involves so much plastic. Why does the mass industry use plastic and gardeners buy? Seed trays, pots, soil bags, ties, supports, cage material, feed, weed and bug sprays. We talk about organic gardening and saving the planet but as gardeners ourselves we are not taking care to refuse plastic usage. Some may argue plastic is not so bad for the planet, but what about landfills?
maybe stay on toptic and not green wash comments on peat mining releases carbon when …. mining for oil to make your seed tray releases carbon up loading 11 times to youtube per article so all servers have your 1 article around the world releases carbon using the internet releases carbon buying seed you havent kept requires shipping releases carbon.