Tomato Cultivation Tips For Plastic Greenhouses?

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is a cost-effective and easy way to maintain a controlled environment. Plastic greenhouses offer the benefits of a permanent greenhouse without the need for costly materials and can be easily moved. They are lightweight, easy to assemble, and often held together with click-together poles. To grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, select the right tomato varieties, plant them in optimal conditions, and provide consistent care and maintenance.

Starting with tomato seeds, plant them shallowly in moist soil mix early spring. When seedlings emerge, ensure they receive the right light. To grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, maintain daytime temperatures between 70-80º F and nighttime temperatures around 60-65º F. The right potting mix is essential for preparing individual pots, and sow the tomato seeds half an inch deep and one inch apart.

Tomatoes continue growing at 18°C (65°F) two weeks after germination. Plant your young tomato plant into soil deep enough to cover 2/3 of the plant or at least up to the second set of true roots. Position the greenhouse in a spot that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight each day, supplementing it with grow lights if possible.

Tomatoes can be grown from seeds or transplanted as seedlings. Site selection is crucial, as tomatoes need full sun, at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Place the pots in an area of the greenhouse receiving at least four hours of direct sunlight per day.

In summary, growing tomatoes in a greenhouse requires careful selection of tomato varieties, optimal conditions, and consistent care and maintenance.


📹 How To Grow Greenhouse Tomatoes | #1 Most Profitable Crop In The Market Garden

In this week’s episode, JM Fortier shares some of his tricks to master greenhouse tomatoes. Tomatoes are the most profitable crop …


How do you support tomatoes in a greenhouse?

To secure a tomato plant in a greenhouse, attach a taut wire across the greenhouse and attach a cane to it. Another option is to tie a soft string to the wire and tie the other end loosely to the base of the tomato plant. The string should be slack to allow the tomato to gently wind around it as it grows. The author, a daughter of a farmer and market gardener, has a background in the outdoors and has worked at Hayes Garden World, focusing on environmentally friendly gardening. She has an HND and BSc in Conservation and Environmental Land Management.

Do tomatoes grow faster in a greenhouse?

Tomatoes thrive in a warm environment, so growing them in a heated greenhouse or before transplanting outside can yield the earliest crops. However, most people don’t have this luxury. To start tomato harvests quickly, RHS Chief Horticulturist for Communications, Guy Barter, suggests covering plants with fabric or using a light-weight material to prevent cold nights from affecting the plants.

How do you grow tomatoes in a cold greenhouse?

To protect tomato plants from cold, use row covers, fleece, or bubble wrap during chilly nights and water them during the day. Regularly monitor growth and environmental conditions, such as temperature fluctuations, moisture levels, and pest activity. Prune plants as needed to promote airflow and prevent overcrowding. Harvest tomatoes in late summer to early autumn when they reach full color and are firm to the touch. Regularly pick ripe fruits to encourage continued production throughout the season. Proper care and attention will ensure a healthy and productive tomato crop.

Can tomatoes stay in a greenhouse?

There are various tomato varieties available, some suitable for outdoor planting and others thrive best in a greenhouse. Traditional tomato varieties like Cherry tomatoes (favorita), Plum tomatoes (Roma), Gemini, Beefsteak tomatoes (Marmande), and San Marzano are ideal for greenhouse cultivation. These varieties require ample light and the right temperature to thrive, making them suitable for outdoor or greenhouse planting.

Can you grow tomatoes in a plastic greenhouse?

The use of large conservatories, greenhouses, or polytunnels allows for the cultivation of heat-loving plants to full maturity, thereby extending the harvest period in late summer and autumn. Plastic tomato greenhouses represent a more economical option, capable of supporting the growth of two or three plants to full maturity. Additionally, they can be utilized for the cultivation of chillies, aubergines, sweet peppers, and cucumbers.

Can tomatoes get too hot in greenhouse?

The University of Delaware states that tomatoes can tolerate extreme temperatures for short periods, but prolonged exposure to temperatures above 90°F (32°C) or 72°F (22°C) can cause the plant to abort flowers and fruit. This is because the pollen becomes sticky and nonviable, preventing pollination and causing the blossom to dry and drop. Most references suggest temperatures between 90-95°F (32-35°C) damage pollen and cause flower abortion. To combat this, greenhouse growers can use shade cloth, which provides shade without sap and falling leaves.

Why are my tomatoes dying in my greenhouse?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Why are my tomatoes dying in my greenhouse?

Tomato plants can wilt and die when they are not properly watered, which can be caused by various factors. Lack of water, fungal wilt diseases, tomato spotted wilt virus, walnut toxicity, and stalk borers are some of the potential causes. Tomato plants require approximately 1 inch of water per week, which can be re-established when soils are dry. A thorough watering once a week during hot, dry weather is sufficient. If using an overhead sprinkler, water the plants in the morning to reduce foliar disease problems.

Verticillium and Fusarium wilt are two common diseases that affect tomatoes and other tomato plants. These diseases overwinter as fungal spores in garden soil or on infected plant debris. The fungus enters the tomato plant through the roots, grows up into the main plant, and blocks water and nutrient movement, causing the leaves to turn yellow and wilt.

What is the lowest temperature for tomatoes in a greenhouse?

Tomato cultivation requires temperatures between 21-27°C (70-82°F) for optimal growth, pollination, and development. Nighttime temperatures may be 16-18°C (62-64°F). Tomato plants thrive within this range, exhibiting quick development, large yields, and high fruit quality. Depending on variety, they may grow well between 15-32°C (59-89°F). Germination of tomato seeds should occur between 18-29°C (65-85°F).

Can I grow tomatoes in a plastic bucket?

To grow tomatoes in a 5-gallon bucket, create at least a dozen holes at the bottom to allow water to drain easily. Fill the bucket with your chosen soil, which should have a good water-holding capacity, such as peat moss or coco coir. Choose a location with full sun, ensuring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for optimal growth and flavor. Dig a hole in the soil and sprinkle the recommended amount of fertilizer into it to feed the plant roots. Plant the roots deep enough so that at least 1 inch of the stem is covered. Fill the bucket with more soil and gently press it around the tomato plant to keep it in place.

Do tomatoes grow better in a greenhouse?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Do tomatoes grow better in a greenhouse?

Tomatoes thrive in greenhouses, producing larger, earlier crops. A detailed guide can guide you through each step in growing tomatoes. While they require attention like frost protection and regular watering, the benefits of home-grown tomatoes are worth it. There’s a wide variety of fruits, colors, textures, and flavors to choose from, making it a great choice for all tastes. Growing tomatoes also offers plants of different sizes, locations, and spaces, from tall to vigorous. Enjoy your home-grown tomatoes all summer long, fresh and juicier than in the supermarket.


📹 Are Plastic Greenhouses Any Good? How Long Do They Last & Are They Worth It?

12 month review: Are those cheap walk-in plastic greenhouses you can find on Amazon worth it and how long do they really last?


Tomato Cultivation Tips For Plastic Greenhouses
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

28 comments

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  • Mine has lasted over 3 years and still going strong! it’s protected somewhat from winds tho with short, surrounding trees and a bit of a fence. I laid a few bricks on the flaps on the bottom. Amazingly, it looks almost new. In intense sun, I put a piece of shadecloth on top. It’s been a total win for me, all things considered.

  • Awesome article. Yeah, I had one of those greenhouses before I started my website and it was just a sail. Blew away to the neighbor’s with the first decent wind storm. I use low tunnels now and have built a plastic, removable (but much sturdier) greenhouse off our entry (we own our property and are rural, so no one cares, thankfully). BTW, I do like your article style. I know that this is your most popular article so far, but, you’re right, it’s quick, to the point, and very informative. I think your website will keep growing quickly with this style.

  • I have two of these plastic greenhouses I don’t remove the covers every winter one has lasted 5 years and is still going strong I weigh mine down with breeze blocks and occasionally rub the zips teeth with a candle which keeps them working smoothly of cause they are not as good as a real glass greenhouse but I find them to be a good value for money alternatives.

  • I found a solution to the problem of holding the whole thing down, without relying on the guy ropes. I simply dug a trench around the perimeter and buried the bottom edges of the plastic cover under eight inches of soil. It holds the whole building in place and slows down the process of plastic cover failure. I typically get two seasons from each cover, though they are often looking a bit ratty by the end of the second season. Duct tape is my friend!

  • This is the exact greenhouse my wife got me for a gift some years ago. It is not good quality so I constructed and reconstructed it each year to try and help preserve some of its lifespan. It did work pretty well for me to store some pots and soil and also protected delicate seedlings from early spring weather. It worked fairly well, but parts started to break a bit over time, and it was only last season that the green cover became too ripped to use anymore. I used mine for about 5 years or so, maybe 6. I would love to have a real well-built greenhouse, but one of these cheap ones will get you started.

  • I got one over lockdown. The cover lasted a couple of years before perishing. I still have the frame, I also have a smaller shelf model which is still serviceable. I think they’re basically a good idea, but they need extra securing against the wind and it would be nice if the covers were more durable and the guys provided were fit for purpose. It would also be good to be able to get replacements.

  • Agreed. The plastic framed style greenhouse is not sturdy and a problem. We have a metal framed 6×10 that has held up well. It expands just like a canpoy shade frame but comes with the standard plastic greenhouse canopy. The canopy splays at the bottom to the entire thing could be held down with landscaping bricks if wanted. Last fall, here in east central USA, we had an artic blast with high winds. It did no damage to the structure. Metal accordion frame. That’s my recommendation. Thank for sharing mate.

  • My zip broke after the 1sr year so I sewed it closed over winter and got a second hand cover from a friend but it was too thick to let the light in enough to get a good crop of tomatoes. He and I built a new wooden framed greenhouse with corrugated PVC panels and roof it is excellent. I used some old shower doors and made a cold frame form the off cuts and another shower door for the lid. Most of the project was repurposed fence posts and the doors free given from my mother as she had redone her bathroom.

  • They are very cheap but also very prone to wind damage, so they tend not to last longer than 2 or 3 years, depending how exposed they are to the wind. I have a smilar one to yours which I put up about 3 weeks ago, it cost £60 and I will be pleased if I get 2 seasons out of it. It is on a patio so the ground pegs are no use, instead I weighed down the lining edges with a mixture of concrete slabs and compost bags. When the cover becomes damaged beyond repair I will dismantle it and use the shelves in my glasshouse, but for now I’m happy to have doubled my growing space for toms, peppers and Qs. Happy growing season everybody. ☺

  • There’s still plenty of time to start your seeds! Some might say now’s the ideal time…. Get growing and follow these seed starting guides: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMNjC6h_XSTaHKD60LdVhQ7wE8VETFUit Have any of you had experience with plastic greenhouses or something like a polytunnel or cold frame? How long did yours last and what went wrong with them? And also what did you do to fix the problem? I’m thinking of trying more, help me and everyone else here dodge a bullet!

  • I have one and they are alright for starting things off but it’s in a sheltered spot by trees and some fencing. If it was a more open spot I’d look elsewhere. Mine doesn’t have any vents/windows so it can get pretty hot and humid and lacks air circulation, especially when the door is closed – maybe something to consider for some plants.

  • I had the smaller walk in one gifted to me at Christmas about 1/3 size of yours, used it at my windy allotment, the zip broke after about a week but I opened one side of the zip puller and repaired it. I fixed each door side corner inside on a stake and used heavy duty stakes outside and strapped it to my shed, it was good while it lasted, at the end of the season it was starting to rip. Over winter I picked up a free greenhouse from fb and I now use the shelves inside the glass greenhouse.

  • Mine lasted just under 2yrs. We’ve had several wind storms and it made it through with flying colors. But the last wind storm finally broke one of the corner fit pieces. The windows were pretty useless after the first 6 months and the zipper on the door just came apart a few months ago because of the wind.

  • I just got that same greenhouse. I bought lumber and brackets to build a wooden frame around it. I plan to build my own door and also put another greenhouse tarp over the outer wooden layer. Really I just bought the greenhouse because it gives me so much vertical gardening space. Hopefully I can keep it warm enough. In the summer I will have to just take off the covers entirely and put loose weave burlap over the frame because it’s in the sunniest spot in my yard and I had some plants struggle with the heat this summer.

  • Hello Alex, it’s nice to meet you. I like the way you present your information. I just ordered two rather small greenhouses similar to the one you showcased. They are going in my box room to experiment on growing mushrooms and microgreens during the winter (I live in the mountains). Of course, I’ll have to do something about the boxes first…

  • I built mine on top of cedar beams and attached the bottom tubes to the beams with conduit clamps. No problem at all with winds at all, it is very secure. I use shade cloth in the summer and in winter on very cold nights I cover it with 16’x20’ canvas drop cloths and put a milk house heater set on low. Last week we had low twenties at night and this set up held the inside temps at 45 degrees or better. The zipper has gone bad, I simply bought one of the zip up plastic tarp assemblies from a paint store. They come with nice zippers and can be attached to the existing door opening with high strength Velcro.

  • You might consider doing winter sowing. Check Youtube for different methods. Basically, you’ll use plastic transparent or translucent jugs and turn them into mini greenhouses. You plant them with proper drainage and good quality potting soil, WITHOUT THE CAP OR SCREW TOP, and put them outside in late winter (February-mid April for me). Nature takes care of the watering and knows when the seeds should break dormancy and sprout. It’s a mobile and inexpensive way to grow seedlings, although your volumes would require many jugs. We go to fetch ours from recycling bins the night before trash is picked up. Works well and worth trying, at least on a small scale. Label each jug well, both inside and out, and you’ll get some healthy seedlings in just a few months.

  • I got a low tunnel mini green house from Amazon last year and had good success germinating and growing cold hardy vegetables from seed in the early spring. I weighted it down with extra rocks and bricks to keep the cover in place. In summer it was difficult to keep it cool enough to use even with it completely open. I removed the cover and put it indoors for the winter to preserve it for another season. I’m planning on getting a second tunnel for this year.

  • My Chinese Celery survived the winter, -28 coldest night wind chill, (-10 normal) thanks to some straw and the greenhouse I have nice pickable celery stalks popping up in April. Maybe I’ll make me some Tuna Salad for lunch! Edit: I had a cheap 50 dollar greenhouse secured to a raised bed, so it didn’t fly off in a hurricane, the cover dissolved to a net though after 2 years so I got a good one made of PVC instead. Supposedly 10+ years but it has a 3 year cover warranty… worth the 100 bucks IMO.

  • Use ground anchors (large screw shaped things) inside the tent, then get long adjustable straps that go through the ground anchors around the frame and pull the whole structure to the ground (and the straps act as sway bracing). That will secure it good. The whole thing should be dismantled at the end of the season really.

  • I’ve bought this exact one twice in 10 years. Is it perfect? Not at all? Is it cheap? Very. Will it protect your plants in winter? Yes, to an extent. I put mine up in November, and take it down in May. Mine spends the winter under a covered patio, against a wall, on a south-facing porch. There, the wind can’t get to it much, and in north Texas, our winter storms come from the north, so it’s an extremely sheltered spot. I’ve had hibiscus plants survive inside of it. My husband and I weight it down with very heavy flat cement tiles, and we add additional cross-ties on the frame. We throw a blanket over the top when the snow and ice hits us. During the absolutely shattering winter of 2020, all of the plants on the outside-facing wall of the greenhouse froze, since we had no electricity for a few days. My family spent time camping out around the living room fireplace wearing all of our warm clothes and blankets, and I was surprised to find that the greenhouse plants that were against the house wall survived. (I couldn’t believe it.) Downside: Aside from the flimsiness, when you take this apart in spring, you’ll pour rusty water out of some of the rods. Eventually, they’ll rust through completely. When you go to assemble it, it’s helpful to use a rubber mallet to get everything together in good, squared-up form. When you go to dis-assemble it, it can be really, really tough to get the rods out of the connectors. The plastic connectors can crack or break completely. The little tie-downs and pathetic coat-hanger hooks they give you are utterly useless, so you’ll need to make other arrangements.

  • I’ve had a plastic mini greenhouse for two winters now, I unzipped it this March, and realised there was a lot of water in the pots inside, I couldn’t figure out where the water came from, on closer inspection I realised that the roof was full of tiny holes in between the squares of the plastic material, how or why they got there is beyond me, but it has ruined the little greenhouse.

  • I have two of the house shaped coldframes with the same construction/material. One of the zip’s went within a year but so far after 3 years the frames still not rusted through but the plastic is now becoming perforated so I have wee square holes appearing at the top where the sun is strong . Perhaps I will get 4 years out of them.. I have also had some of the wooden framed and aluminium framed coldframes from Aldi or Lidl and they only lasted about 3 years as the polycarbonate in both of them disintegrated due to UV . I now have a green house will real glass thankfully

  • If you’re interested in the greenhouse you can find it here: amzn.to/45eC2FM (Amazon Affiliate*). It’s been six months since I purchased my second greenhouse (and fixed the first) and both are standing strong this year with no signs of damage. If I can figure out where I’ll put it, I might even buy a third…. There’s been a lot of continued interest in this article – I really hope you’re finding it useful. Thank you all for your support and let me know if you’d like to see a follow-up / 2-year review article in the Spring. *As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I will only ever recommend things that I really use or that I really like (and if I link to something that’s not 100% fantastic, I will tell you). Proceeds go back into improving the website.

  • My partner bought me this very same greenhouse against my protest as i seen it as a poor quality fix. After building it, I found that the green cover was way too tight for the frame and attempting to zip the door closed added more tension to the overall green cover, and split the sides at the door way. I erected the greenhouse behind a large structure protecting the green house from one side and to the back of the greenhouse. A 3mtr X 3 mtr shed was already standing protecting the rear of the greenhouse, which only left the other side, but that wasn’t a problem as there is a horse training round yard there, so the greenhouse was protected on 3 sides from strong winds. Mother Nature, in her awesome power, cared not for my strategic placing and simply cartwheeled the greenhouse from where it was to another location, yes I installed the ground pegs that came with the product. Ultimately I used a ratchet strap and anchored the green house to the ground. All in all, as I predicted, a waste of money at $200 + Au, so not entirely cheap for the product. I would not suggest getting one, save your pennies, and buy a decent quality greenhouse.

  • IMPORTANT INFO…. These mini green houses are ok ..BUT BUT BUT the covers rip easy and deteriorate after a few years and replacement covers cost almost as much as the green house it self,DO NOT use the ties and loops on the cover as its these places rip first, They WILL be shook by strong winds and will shake all the plants off the shelves even if weighted down with sand bags so reinforcing the frame is essential and build separate shelves that are not connected to the greenhouse frame, They get too hot in summer and too cold in winter .

  • Possibly depends which one you get. I’m in Blackpool so can get very windy. Mine lasted 10 months in my garden, 1 season. I bought a cheap polytunnel for my allotment that lasted 4 weeks, ripped to shreds, then bought another more expensive one and its lasted 2 years so far and still going. Bought a glass greenhouse for my home garden instead. I also use plastic cold frames at home they’re great.

  • For the life of me, I don’t know why manufacturers choose green as a color. It is a Greenhouse. Not a Green House. Green is the color plants throw away because they cannot use it… That is why plants LOOK green. They are shrugging off that frequency. it is wasted photons… You literally filter all the USEFUL frequencies out and leave the trash. Bizarre. I had one for a year. Threw it out. Everything was spindly and anemic.