To ensure the longevity of your shower, it is essential to apply a moisture barrier before installing your finished wall. Wallboard should be rated for a moist environment, and sealing your walls is crucial. Many showers still lack waterproofing or have poor or improper waterproofing. To waterproof a shower, you can use a combination of liquid waterproofing adhesive and tightly seal the walls.
To waterproof a shower, start by creating a clean foundation by removing debris, inspecting the backerboard for damage, and repairing any imperfections in the surface. Waterproofing provides a barrier preventing moisture and water from seeping into the walls and doors. Whether renovating or building a new home, waterproofing your shower is a crucial step. A simple, 2-inch alkali-resistant mesh tape or PVC self-adhesive caulking sealing tape can be used.
Tiling your shower with tile, such as cement board with a vapor layer, is another option. RedGard waterproofing membrane is one of the easiest ways to waterproof a tile shower. The most effective and reliable solution is a separate waterproofing membrane on primed shower walls before tiling. Apply cement board tape to joints, corners, and other areas where the floor and walls meet. Use self-adhesive backer board tape over all seams, along the edges of the wall, around windows, and along inner corners. Install reinforcing membrane where the floor joins the walls and around the drain. Once again, paint the area, then put the membrane down and give it a second coat.
In summary, waterproofing your shower is essential for its longevity and longevity. By following these steps, you can create a secure and long-lasting shower that will last for years to come.
📹 How To Waterproof A Shower – DIY At Bunnings
Applying a waterproof barrier is an essential part of preparing to install a shower. This video from Bunnings will show you how to …
What is the cheapest way to waterproof a shower wall?
Bathroom waterproofing with liquid membranes is a cost-effective and easy method for surfaces that come into contact with water or moisture. This method can be applied to both walls and floors, including horizontal areas like shower benches, shelving, half-walls, niches, and shower floors. The process involves brushing, rolling, or spraying a liquid membrane onto the substrate, similar to applying paint. To avoid pinholes or voids, multiple coats are recommended.
However, it is important to consider mil thickness, cure times, and mud beds when installing liquid membranes on horizontal surfaces like shelves, half walls, and niches. Vapor barriers should be installed behind the substrate, especially if installing a steam generator in the bathroom. Sheet membranes, bonded to the substrate with thinset mortar or adhesive, are commonly used and are easy to see. Overall, liquid membranes are a cost-effective and effective method for waterproofing surfaces in bathrooms.
How do you waterproof a shower wall without tiles?
PVC is a lightweight yet strong bathroom wall material made from two sheets of PVC with a mesh structure. It is 100% waterproof and can cover large areas easily. However, it is susceptible to scratches and cracks and requires replacement if damaged. Marble is a timeless material with a unique look and is strong, withstands repeated damage, and is 100 mold-resistant. It can last a lifetime if maintained correctly.
However, it has a high price tag, is difficult to source due to its finite nature, and requires regular sealing due to staining from acidic materials. Additionally, it is heavy and may not be suitable for some bathroom redesigns due to its heavy weight. Overall, PVC and marble are both excellent options for bathroom wall materials.
What happens if water gets behind tile in shower?
Water damage behind tiles can cause various issues, including drywall damage, rot, and tile falling off. In severe cases, it can lead to mold, posing a serious health risk. Identifying the issue early is crucial for effective repair. However, it’s possible that water damage is not immediately apparent, leading to the need for professional help. In such cases, it may be necessary to seek professional help.
What happens if water gets behind shower wall?
Moisture or dampness in a shower can lead to various issues, including mold growth, structural damage, and compromised building materials. If the area around the shower appears wet or feels damp, it should be addressed. This can be seen in wet patches on the walls or floor, as well as a lingering humidity in the air. A musty smell, especially around the shower, may also indicate water damage. If the shower walls are tiled, water may be getting behind them, causing damaged or loose tiles. It’s important to remove the loose tiles to see what’s going on behind them and determine if there’s an issue.
What should be behind shower wall?
It is imperative that the tub or shower be insulated in a manner consistent with that of the exterior walls, and that it be covered with an air barrier comprising cement backer board, rigid foam insulation, or non-paper-faced drywall. The edges and seams of this barrier must be sealed.
How do you waterproof the wall behind a shower?
To waterproof bathroom walls, install a watertight membrane on the outer wall, seal all openings, cracks, and joints, and use weatherstripping on all exterior doors. Showering is a common activity in bathrooms, but it can also cause leaks, causing water to seep into walls and foundations. To ensure showers are waterproofed, seal gaps, cracks, and penetrations in the enclosure, keeping moisture from seeping in and water from getting out. Benefits of shower waterproofing include preventing moisture from seeping in, preventing water from getting out, and identifying suitable products for achieving this.
Do you waterproof behind shower tiles?
It is recommended that waterproof shower walls be installed prior to tiling in order to prevent the leakage of moisture through gaps. Such leakage can result in the growth of mold, the attraction of pests, and the loosening of grout, which may ultimately result in the breaking of tiles.
What is best to put behind tile in a shower?
Cement board is a popular backer board that provides a solid surface for tiles to adhere to, is water-resistant, lightweight, and easy to cut. It can be installed using thin-set mortar or other adhesives and is lightweight and easy to cut. When combined with cement tiles, it gains even more durability. However, it can be highly absorbent and may cause mold and fungal growth if not covered with a waterproof layer.
Fiber cement boards, similar to cement boards but containing reinforcing cellulose fibers, are slightly more expensive but provide added strength and flexibility in wet conditions. They come in different thicknesses to accommodate different tile sizes.
What are the four types of shower waterproofing?
There are four main types of shower wall and floor membranes: sheet membranes, liquid membranes, foam wallboards, and foam shower bases. When remodeling your shower, waterproofing is crucial to strengthen its structural integrity and prevent moisture problems. DIY enthusiasts can waterproof their shower to ensure a successful remodelling project. Before waterproofing membrane systems, there was no universally accepted strategy for shower walls, except for the shower pan liner, which extended 2. 54 cm above the shower base.
Can you waterproof a shower without removing tiles?
Shower Plug is a waterproofing sealant designed for tiles, grout, and masonry surfaces. It is a clear liquid that can be applied and wiped away in one simple application, preventing shower leaks, mold, efflorescence, and making tiles and grout easier to clean. Ideal for DIY and professional users, it is 100 UV-resistant and can be used indoors and outdoors. It is used in various applications worldwide, including showers, balconies, driveways, and building facades. Once applied, it leaves an invisible finish.
What do you install behind shower walls?
Moisture management is crucial for maintaining the health of a home, especially in areas like bathrooms and kitchens. It is recommended to install cement board or an equivalent moisture-resistant backing material on walls behind tub and shower enclosures made of tile or panel assemblies with caulked joints. Avoid using paper-faced backer board, such as paper-faced drywall, behind seamed tub and shower enclosures.
Instead, use an alternate approved product like fiber-cement, fiber-reinforced gypsum, glass mat gypsum, or fiber mat-reinforced cementitious backer panels. If a monolithic tub and shower enclosure is used, a paper-faced backer board can be used if it meets ASTM mold-resistant standards (ENERGY STAR).
📹 How To Install Cement Board and Waterproofing For Tile Shower Walls – Complete Step-By-Step Guide
In this video, I show you how to install cement board and waterproofing for tile shower walls. A complete step by step guide on the …
Just came across your website and watched the article. Two things. 1st, instead of using cement backer board, I switched to Johns Mansfield Go Board, it’s available at the blue big box store. It cuts like drywall and is completely impervious to water, unlike concrete. 2nd, most shower pan manufacturers recommend installing the backer board to the top of the flange, not over it. The tile or other material will then come down to 1/8″ from the bottom and get siliconed. This will leave a gap so that water can’t wick up behind the final wall in case the silicone gets compromised. Other than that, it was a good tutorial.
Been installing tile new for about 20 years, the only big box we have is HD. Here’s some solid advice. 1. Straight edge & plumb the studs & corners, shim if need. 2. Use Aquabar paper over your studs & go over shower lip. 3. Leave a ⅛” gap at your cement board seams (#8 nail) 4. Tape with alkali resistant mesh! 5. I have always used Flexbond thinset & had great results! We live near the 29 Palms Marine base & get shook all the time from the bombing & small quakes are the norm. I’ve never had a shower leak or crack. For what its worth thats my experience tiling MANY showers.
I’ve been doing showers and bathrooms for decades. Out in the field we normally pack out are studs. We packed them out quarter inch or so. That way the cement board or HardieBacker board slide to write down over in front of the flang of a tub or shower. No rabbeting out or back cutting the cement board,or hardiebacker board like you’re doing in this article.
Thank you for a great article. Honestly, we had not idea the detail that went into this work. We hired a contractor to gut and redo our bathroom. Sadly, we did not do our homework and hired him vai work of mouth and one recommendation. We had to let him go because we could see halfway through the job, he had no idea what he was doing. After perusal your article, I have a better understanding of feedback to give him and what to watch with the new contractor. I should have watched more articles. LOL.. Sadly, we lost about $16,000 because we did not get more bids, and we did not get more knowledge ourselves. Bathroom had to be re-gutted (yup all of it) and all new materials purchased, as well as paying for a new contractor to fix the screw up of the first one. Live and learn.
Isn’t it recommended to remove the paper face of the insulation if you’re using a waterproof membrane over the backer board? Otherwise, mold could become an issue due to moisture being trapped between two impervious materials. I’m a complete novice, but I came across this advice several times in recent months. I learned this while researching my own project whether or not to remove the vapor barrier before installing my shower on an exterior wall. Thanks for your efforts; I’ve learned so much from such articles and the comments
Hi Josh, I’ve just discovered your website and I must say you are an amazing teacher . I have a couple of questions. About a month before perusal your article, I installed 1/4 inch cement board on the Walls of my shower, is that a problem? Can I do anything to it to make it work? Or do I have to remove it and use 1/2 inch? My second question is, do the walls need to be perfectly level or the bit of unevenness can be even out with thinset when tiling? Thank you
This is really great and straight forward article. I’ve done a lot of drywalling and odd jobs construction and feel very confident in my abilities but it’s always good to go through a article dry run with to make sure I’m not forgetting something; especially if it’s a project I haven’t done in a while. It also helps to go through the needed materials list to ensure I have everything for the job before I began. There’s nothing worse than getting started only to find out you need to run back to the local hardware store! Aghhh You also have some great tricks to make the job go easier when possible. Thanks for your article’s I’m definitely a subscriber. Fireman Michael
Another fantastic showing of your work. Yes drywall background comes in really well to take and coat the corners and seams. I’ve used a brush as well to put the thinset in the corner and wipe it down. So glad to see the application of the sealer as well when using cement board and even hardi backer. Doesn’t suck the moisture out of the thinset as quick too. Great job Josh. 👍🏻
I am in the process of renovating my shower.. I have seen 10 different DIY articles on this topic.. no one suggests using liquid nail like you do .. is this just an insurance thing or does the cement board manufacturer recommends that ? and also the flange thing you recommend to do… does it actually have any purpose ?
I have to rebuild my shower in my brand new house that the contractor really messed up. After perusal several articles on the subject, I stumbled upon yours and what a relief. I am confident that with your explicit instructions, I can now tackle the project. I will have to demo the tile out to the studs and start over so your articles really came in handy, now to gather materials. BTW, the building contractor will repurchase the tile if I do the work. His sub went out of business :~(
Josh, excellent articles. Thanks, I have a question. My son’s contractor did a poor job laying tiles on his shower floor. The shower has a square drain and the contractor grouted all the way around four sides of the drain. Now for basic clean up and hair clogs removal, we have no way of easily pulling off the drain cover. Would it be safe to use some scouring knife or rotary blade to scrap off the grout on all four sides of the drain screen? They can’t even use the shower anymore as the water pools on shower floor and takes long long time to slowly drain, in the meantime, standing water is weakening the floor and dislodging the tiles. Thank you for your (or fellow reader’s) helpful comments.
Hey Josh, I agree with all the other comments, EXCELLENT series on cement board, shower pan install, tiling, and grout… Complete and Fantastic stuff. I have a shower that needs every single onenof these vids. From shower pan replacing to tiling. I feel 1,000% more comfortable with rhe whole project having your vids in my back pocket. Will let you know how it goes/turna out. Ciao
A title guys with years of experience says that you place the cement board on top of the lip of the pan to stop water wicking up. leaving that space means water can’t travel up and make contact with the cement board. Yes, you can use caulking between the gaps if you rest the cement board on the base, but cauling won’t stop water perminately, especially in a shower with plenty of water spashing around.
I like your articles but for my shower installs, I use a poly styrene backer board called “GO Board” from Johns-Mansville (approx $26 for 1/2″ x 36″x 60″) instead of cement board (approx$14), Go Board is waterproof and doesn’t need a painted waterproof membrane ($60-$150) or tape ($10) for the seams and the corners. They have a “GO BOARD” adhesive ($16 for a 10 oz tube) that you spread over the seams and screw heads. It cuts with a utility knife and is dense enough to use bugle head backer board screws ($35). Cement boards need a waterproof membrane painted on it to keep from absorbing moisture. I’ve added up the costs and using “Go Board” is about the same cost and a lot quicker and more waterproof instead of a product like cement or hardi backer board that can and will absorb moisture.
Hey Josh, I like your website and content, it’s been very helpful as I am remodeling our bath room. I am taking out a tub and installing a Delta walk in shower kit. I do however have a question or two. When installing the backer board, in your experience are you putting the board on top of the lip or the tub/shower? Your thoughts and recommendation would be appreciated.
Josh, thank you for taking time to show step by step process, being so thorough. I Have never done any of these projects, but you sure do a great job taking the mystery out of building a home DIY. I am in the early stages of planning to build a house, and I want to do most of the work myself so “can save a ton of money” and get the satisfaction of doing it myself. I have subscribed to your website, and will be perusal many more articles. Your website is the MOST thorough and BEST website I have found on home building. No one shows, and explains it as simple as you. Thanks a bunch and keep up the great work. You are helping lots of people! ALL the best to ya!
Hi Josh, thanks a lot for you articles. They are great and straight to the point. One question I have is regarding the gap between the backer board and the ceiling. Do I need to fill it in with thin set or something, or just fill it after tile is installed (with silicon calk)? I am going to install tiles up to the ceiling. Thanks a lot.
We are remodeling our bummy little fixer upper and the bathroom has regular sheetrock installed on the walls,however we are not planning on installing a shower only a tub,should we switch out the sheetrock to cement boards for waterproofing or would it be fine to leave the sheetrock ?we are also planning to tile the floor and halfway up the wall. Pls no hate comments we are trying to diy everything because we are working with a very tiny budget
Well I did one of my first shower tile jobs directly onto old plaster walls a few months back. Hopefully I get some time out of it at least. I took down the old shower wall insert paneling, scraped as best I could, waterproofed two coats, then used a product called echo prim to provide a rough cement board like surface for thin set to adhere too. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this. If nothing else, it was good practice. Thx!
There’s a bit of controversy about whether or not an installer should, or should not cover the lip of the shower base (or imbed their board in the shower bedding if not using a fiberglass base as you are) to prevent water from wicking up into the concrete board. The idea is to end the sheet short of the shower pan lip and the tile would overhang onto the lip of the pan (in your case). What is your opinion regarding this? How does your method prevent wicking?
Hey Josh great article We got several estimates by contractors and they said the waterproofing of the cement board is unnecessary. These are reputable supposedly contractors in our area Do you think they are off base I like the idea of waterproofing as you showed on your website. Also where are you located? Thanks for the great article.
Great article! Question for you: I’m planning on putting backer board on a faux fireplace in my living room so that we can add on stack stone tile. Do we still need the mesh tape and the thinset if it’s not going to be in a wet environment like a shower? Or can I just put the sheets on and then tile over it?
1-Plywood on the base is a good idea, but the crumbs from the cement board will get between the plywood and the shower base. Protect the base completely with cardboard or whatever before the plywood. 2-First shim the the studs out from top to bottom to accommodate the shower pan up turn on all the walls including the walls out side the shower so sheetrock and cement board are in plane . 3-Start from bottom up leaving a 1/4 gap on ontop of the shower base. Much easier. 4-Leave 1/8 inch between sheets for mortar to key into the sheet. The but joints on the shorter walls will create a bulge in the wall do to orientation of the boards. 5-Fiber tape needs to be ALKALINE resistant! 6-The thinset around the mud ring on the diveter is pointless. The mud ring gets removed when valve is trimmed out. 7-Water proofing is optional not mandatory! 8- Water proofing comes in 1 gallon buckets.
I use 6″ window flashing tape on the flange and up the wall, then install the cement board above the flange so water doesn’t wick up the wall in the cement board. DO NOT REST CEMENT BOARD ON THE SURFACE THAT WATER SITS ON! IT WILL SOAK IT UP LIKE A SPONGE AND CAUSE MAJOR MOLD PROBLEMS! Same idea as a pan liner and having a gap above the wet bed so the water can drip rather than soak it up. Other than that,good tips and install
Question. Is this different than hanging drywall? We always put drywall on 8ft tall and only 4 wide so we have no seam that isn’t on a stud. A house we just finished had it the other way and we had a 4 ft high seam all the way around the room with no stud behind it. The top row of drywall has (over 40 years) slid down against the bottom piece, creating a buldge we had to sand out and retape.
What do you do with the edge of the wall where the tile and curb of the shower meet the wall outside of the shower (in our case that wall isn’t tiled and we don’t want to tile it). How do you make sure the water doesn’t leak between the tile and the waterproofing and onto the wall just outside the shower?
Great stuff as usual!!! Question: when you install the backer board vertically you lose the seam indetation mentioned at 9:08… does that matter much? Kinda related… I ‘helped’ a “pro” tile a couple showers a few weeks ago in a group home. I was shocked to see that he used green board, and of course NO waterproofing material, in the shower surrounds. When I asked him “WTF??” he said, with a straight face, that it didn’t matter :(.
Not to be negative but I don’t think you’re supposed to have the back board touching the shower pan on the inside of the pan. This week create a wick for water to come up and create mold. From what I’ve seen you need to have it on top of the lip or even above a gap. Then the tile will sit over the hole down to the pan.
A few things… you don’t need adhesive, you’re using the wrong tape and you need to read the directions on the back of the mortar bag. Mapei mortars require 5 minute mix followed by a 5 minute slake then another 1-2 minute mix. Also, the amount of water you need to use is easily calculated based on the amount needed to mix a full bag.
Hey good buddy, I have a tub surround I want to rebuild, and at the top edge of the tub, where the tub meets the backer board, in some places it is like 5/8 in front of the stud. In other areas, the stud is just about right up against the tub edge. I know this can’t be rare, but what is the solution. Thanks and thanks for the articles!
If you’re installing 1/2″ Durock cement board, their installation instructions indicate you can also use 1-1/4″ cement board screws, 8 inches apart on walls and 6″ on ceilings. 1-5/8″ isn’t a bad idea though. Also, gluing Durock up with construction adhesive is an unnecessary step. It’s not indicated by Durock. It’ll be Hell for the next guy having to scrape or sand Liquid Nails off the studs for a smooth, flat surface.
All i see is a southern Jared Leto doing tile in yes the cheapest way, well cheapest as long as the water proofing holds up because if it doesn’t, it will be more expensive than any other waterproofing system because it will rot the heck out of your walls which mmmm ive heard bad things about the water proofing used here. I know it’s more expensive but the schluter way is the way to go cus its proven to be the best water proofing system as long as its installed correctly. Honestly i recommend just being patient and saving your money so you can not have to potentially spend more later on. But kudos to this guy I especially appreciate the way he notched out the bottom of the cement board for the lip of the shower pan cus yeah that kick out can be nasty.
I found a Hardi Backer that is already waterproof, It cost about 21.00 a board at Home Depot. You should not have to use the water proofing if you use the more expensive Hardi backer. There is a article of a guy using Schulter band to seal the corners instead oof the fiber tape, so I am going to use it instead.
Thinset is very hard and inflexible so if there is any wall movement at the corner wouldn’t it readily crack and break the tape? Is there any other means generally used of retaining a semi flexible corner joint so as to not to risk tearing the waterproofing and compromising the waterproofing? Why not just use the rubberized waterproofing tape and coating directly I.e no thinset as you aren’t filling any recess?
I’m wondering if he knows why they used mastic (Glue) to install tile years ago,and flipper house’s, cost is one, plus Glue last 8 to 10 years, it’s fast and easy,wonerboard is like fresh mud or cement, only if you’re walls are off so will your tile be,it still leaks, only takes longer, nothing is forever, only death.
Can’t believe you started up on the top with the wallboard, I had to stop perusal😀 Just kidding. But for the life of me, I struggle understanding why so many apply the mesh tape? Showers stalls are typically small, I simply use wood blocking, either 2 x 4 or small scraps of three-quarter plywood to reinforce & screw all seams. But 1st I lay a bead of good caulking on the top edge of the installed board, then set the other board right on top👍 Then simply red guard or similar. If you were to allow a film of your waterproofing to dry, you would find its tensile strength much greater than the tape you installed. Anyway, if water should somehow penetrate your red guard waterproofing, Please explain how mesh tape & thinset will stop it. Also, do you find your walls uneven due do thinset? Thx for the input
We love your shower walls. They’re a great way to make the most of your space, and they help keep the water out of the rest of your bathroom. But they can be hard to install, especially if you don’t have a lot of experience with sheetrock and/or plumbing. That’s why we love HYDRO-BLOK Shower Wall Panels! They’re easy to install, waterproof, and can be used in any room of your home—not just the shower!
Cement board is not required by code. It is suggested that it be backed with a water proof product when used, which makes more sense than a rubber based surface treatment that can be peeled off simply by removing the tape involved in masking the base? Not a good surface for tile adhesion, and pricy at $300??
so where is your 2ft and 4ft anf 6ft levels and framing square?? because every house that I have installed a shower in. Not a single one has perfectly flat studs, just to go and slap some cement boards on the wall. especially since you was worried about the shower pan lip(last shower I had to rip down the center stud about a 1/2 inch to make it flat. Sometimes I think its still better to do it the old school way, and use tar paper, wire mesh, scratch coat, than float the whole dam thing on screet sticks, That way you know it will be absolutely flat and perfectly square and extra water protection and you know its not gonna go anywhere .Thats how I learned how to do showers 25 years ago and those showers are still solid and water tight today. (Durock cement board is okay but if you notice that you can usally just screw into it once and after that it will either go thru or wont the hold the board and you have to put another one next to it, so if you think about how much a wooden stick home moves over the years from earthquakes, temperature and humidity as it expands and contracts every season.) You already know eventually the screws are not gonna hold the cement board anymore.( also I see the liquidnalis attempt to help with that) but everyone already knows liquid nails also eventually gets brittle and breaks apart( id use it maybe for glueing a box or something stationary that doesn’t move or get exposed to heat and moisture( not the opposite as a bathroom, has both #1 humidity from shower steam, then heat or A/C from the house that pulls the moisture out and dries it.
Water proofing cement boards is a waste of time and money. These boards have a moisture resistant coatings only need to mesh tape joints and seal with thinset can use a heavy coat of oil base primes on joints after taping . Tile and grout is water proof on ensure the corners are properly caulked and maintained over time because that’s where the grout may Crack and have water penertation. Install backer boards to lip of rub or pan and tile to 1/8 off the tub and pan after a heavy bead of Caulking behind the tile and finish bead of Caulking on face of tile. Cement boards and backer boards are water proof. Water proof is highly recommended if tiled shower floor and curb is bring insulated because grout often cracks where the wallet the floor.
Cement board is not waterproof. A vapor barrier should be installed under cement board, but keep not installing a vapor barrier because i appreciate the repair job down the road. And before anyone screams about red guard, it is not the best surface to set tile on, nor is it compatible with every combination of mastic and tile. Do research and you will see
Several very odd things. Destroying the nice edge next to the bath lip. Hanging over the destroyed edge and not waterproofing that edge front and back just sucks up water at the wettest spot! This renders your waterproofing useless. The waterproofing keeps water from failed grout lines from drying, it will stay wet. Concrete board won’t fail when wet and will dry. Tile is waterproof! Create a good grout line, deep between the tile, it’s waterproof. Waterproofing the board reduces tile adhesion, with heavy tile a big problem. Fibreglass tape is installed with a layer of thin set laid down first, then the tape and more thin set, see manufacturers article! There should be a small gap between boards for expansion. The tile hangs over the top lip with silicon behind the bottom edge, not mortar. The bottom edge of the tile has a small gap above the bath so silicone gets a good grip. My current bathroom Reno with 2’x1’ heavy marble tile will have the following: Studs that line up, with planing and shimming the length where needed. Extra studs were easy to add. Stud faces are lightly planed to reveal fresh wood for glue adhesion. A generous amount of glue used to adhere the board and backer screws used every 8 inches, as per manufacturer. Fibreglass tape applied between grout layers and 1/8″ gap between boards. Waterproofing applied as a 2″ wide strip behind grout lines but nowhere else to maximise tile adhesion. The tile overhanging the bath lip is masked with tape when mortar applied, the tape removed and silicone applied.
Nope, 1st of all the cement board rest on top of the flange of the shower Pan…the area underneath is filled with thin set having an 1/8″ gap between shower pan surface to thinset. Thinset is far superior to that cement board in water resistant capability. 2nd there is an 1/8″ gap between board. The gap is simply filled with thin set. 3rd, You do not do the mesh part.. That is only required if you are not using a waterproof liquid membrane. If you are using a waterproof liquid membrane then you will need to use a fiberglass mesh and not that crappy cement mesh tape. Most liquid membrane applications will tell you to set your fiberglass tape using the liquid membrane, then coat the surface twice, once rolling product on horizontally, and the 2nd coat rolled on vertically. This person that did this article obviously doesn’t read the specifications of the product that he is using.