Orchids are difficult to propagate due to their need for fungal symbionts during germination. In this video, Jason Ligon and Tito Tomei discuss how to propagate orchids in the lab using sterile micropropagation techniques. However, cloned plantlets are genetically homogenous and less suitable for conservation and repopulation than genetically diverse seedlings.
Orchid propagation is essential when there is only one plant left in the natural habitat, as it allows for bulking up the population. Singapore’s critically endangered species, Orchida, is an example of a plant that can be propagated using micropropagation. Factors such as humidity, air movement, light, water, temperature, and feeding must be considered when propagating orchids.
In-vitro propagation using tissue culture methods is another method for growing orchids. Vegetative propagation can be accomplished through division, back bulbs, and offshoots. Growing orchids from seed or tissue culture/clones is not easy, but it can be done by a motivated home grower. Some orchids have been successfully micropropagated on semi-solid media supplemented with various plant growth regulators.
Orchids are known for being difficult to grow indoors, but they can be grown in non-sterile conditions on ant gel. A study developed a protocol for in-vitro micropropagation and acclimatization of Epidendrum nocturnum using organic supplements. There are three main techniques for growing orchids in more water: full water culture, semi-water culture, and semi-hydroponics.
📹 Aseptic transfer or flasking of orchid seedlings
In this video, I take you into the laboratory to show you how orchid seedlings are aseptically transferred from one flask to another …
Are orchids hard to propagate?
Large, overgrown orchids can be difficult to divide, but examining the plant before cutting can make the process easier and ensure strong divisions that produce vigorous growth quickly. After a mature orchid has grown and flowered for several years, a beginner can either repot the plant into a larger container or divide it into two or more separate individuals. If the plant has only one lead, it can be divided into groups of three or four pseudobulbs, known as divisions or back bulbs. If the plant has several leads, it can be divided into one or more divisions and one or more back bulbs.
The actual cutting of the rhizome is usually done after the plant has flowered, but before repotting. A V-shaped notch is cut more than half way through the rhizome, and the plant is not disturbed until the dormant “eyes” on the back bulbs begin to break. Once new growths are started, the plant can be taken from its pot, broken up, and repotted. After the division has been repotted, the plant should be carefully sprayed but not watered until root growth has become evident. Plants may then be given more water and treated as established plants.
Backbulbs can be placed in a clay pot with a pad of sphagnum moss in the bottom, and a daily spray with water is recommended to keep the plant and moss hydrated.
Why hasn’t my orchid bloomed in 3 years?
Orchids require adequate light to produce flowers, and insufficient light is a common cause of failure to rebloom. Leaf color indicates the amount of light, with a grassy green color indicating sufficient light for blooming. Orchid DealWire offers free access to orchid vendors’ special promotions and exclusive savings, ensuring the plant receives the necessary amount of light for successful blooming.
What is the best method of propagation for orchids?
Orchid propagation involves removing the plant from its pot, shaking it to remove most of the mix from the root system, and cutting the rhizome linking the pseudobulbs. Large plants can make multiple divisions, provided at least three green bulbs are left on each division to give them a good chance to recover and flower again next season. Most orchids have a sympodial growth habit, but paphiopedilums and phragmipediums should be divided only if they fall apart during re-potting. The best time to divide any orchid is when new growths and roots begin to appear.
Back cutting is another method for orchids with non-clustered pseudobulbs and distinct rhizomes, such as cattleyas. It is best to leave at least three growths on either side of the cut, as this will force an eye on the older side to produce a new lead. After back cutting, both divisions should be left in the pot undisturbed until new growths and roots are established. With mature plants, more than one back cut can be made and all divisions left in the pot for later separation or to allow a specimen plant to develop.
How long do orchids take to root?
To ensure new roots appear in your peat-based media, mist the foliage and top of the pot with fresh water. This “shock time” helps maintain humidity and allows new roots to start at the base of the plant. This process may take 2-5 weeks, depending on your conditions and the time of year. Increased watering should begin when new active roots appear, and it is recommended to water gradually. Young plants in small pots may need more frequent watering after new roots appear. After roots reach the pot’s edge and go down into the new medium, continue your regular fertilizing schedule. For specific watering recommendations, refer to other culture sheets.
What is the hardest orchid to take care of?
Habenarias, often considered one of the most challenging orchids to grow, are actually one of the easiest to maintain. The key to their culture is watering, as they go through a monsoon-type growing season in their native habitat. The plants are developed from dormant corms in the parched soil, and the rains soften the soil in early spring, causing them to grow rapidly until midsummer. When the rosettes of leaves slow down, watch for emerging flower spikes from the center of the rosette. The plant should be watered but allowed to dry slightly between waterings, as it produces new corms for next year’s growth.
When the foliage starts to appear dying, stop watering and repot in dry mix. Check every week for signs of growth and water if necessary. An occasional misting by mid-April can spark the plant if no signs are present. Habenarias purchased as bare-root corms should not be planted until April, as damp soil mixes can alter their growth cycle.
Habenarias require a light level of 1500-23000 lux, moderate shade, and strong air movement.
Is it hard to get orchids to rebloom?
Orchids bloom once a year in the wild, but when grown indoors, they can bloom multiple times a year, potentially every 3 to 6 months. To encourage reblooming, maintain plant health and allow them to rest in a dormancy before flowering again. Moth orchids bloom on slender flower spikes, which can sometimes bloom multiple times. Encouraging plants to bloom on an existing spike can help get new orchid flowers faster. However, if the spike is past its prime, remove it to prevent energy loss.
Key signs to look for when deciding whether to remove an orchid flower spike include small buds, green spikes without visible buds, and withering or brown spikes. Leave the spike in place to rebloom, while clip it off at the base of the plant to conserve energy.
Do orchids rebloom on old stems?
The Phalaenopsis orchid, or moth orchid, is the only orchid that reblooms on the same stalk, while other orchids bloom from different stalks. To trim this orchid, trim the flower stalk, not the pseudobulbs. Most orchids do not have pseudobulbs, so if you grow Dendrobiums or Cattleyas, trim the flower stalk at the base of the plant. If you notice a bulge in the stem, it is a pseudobulb and should not be cut.
If there are leaves growing off a stalk, don’t cut them. If the spike is dying and looks brown, trim the stem at the base of the plant. As the orchid blooms annually, wait until next year for more flower spikes to grow before cutting the stalk at the base.
Why are orchids hard to keep?
Orchids often face root rot, which can cause dropping leaves, lack of blooming, and unhealthy plant stalks. To address this issue, dig out potting material around the roots and look for black, mushy roots. If the roots are rotting, remove the orchid from its pot, tap off the potting material, trim off bad roots, and treat the remaining roots with fungicide. Allow the roots to dry before repotting.
If the leaves are turning yellow or dried out, it may be exposing the orchid to too much direct sunlight. Move the orchid to a cooler area with indirect sunlight. If the roots are too tightly tangled, it may indicate that the pot is not providing enough space for the orchid and may need repotting during its next dormancy cycle.
What is the easiest orchid to keep alive?
Moth orchids, including the species Doritis and Phalaenopsis, are relatively straightforward to cultivate medium-sized plants that produce flowers with a long vase life. These plants require filtered light and regular watering, with brief periods of desiccation. The blooming period extends from winter into late spring. To receive the latest information, including tips, articles, and instructional videos, subscribe to our mailing list.
Can you root orchid cuttings in water?
Water culture orchids, also known as hydroponic orchids, are a unique way to grow houseplants with exotic flowers and characterful roots. These plants can be cultivated by novice growers with only an appropriate container, water, sterile tools, and patience. Despite the challenges of blooming and caring for aerial orchid roots, proper care can improve the health of ailing plants. Follow an expert tutorial to experiment with water culture orchids and elevate your houseplant collection.
How are orchids cultivated by micropropagation?
Orchids, the largest family of flowering plants with colorful and fragrant blooms, are crucial for floricultural and ornamental purposes, including pharmacological research. Traditional methods of propagation are slow and insufficient, leading to the dominance of micropropagation and tissue culture in orchid production technology.
Orchids are unique in their size, shape, color, structure, number, and fragrance. They play a significant role in international trade, hybrid development, and commercial cultivation. However, traditional methods are slow and insufficient to meet demand. Orchid seeds, which can be produced in large numbers, are non-endospermic and require a michorrhizal association for germination. Fungal associations provide sugar and other nutrients required for seed germination, resulting in only 2-5 of seeds germinating in their natural environment.
Knudson’s discovery in 1922 revolutionized orchid propagation and cultivation by showing that orchid seeds can germinate in vitro without fungal association. Tissue culture is a method that uses controlled conditions to produce clones of plants with the desired genome. Plant parts like shoot tip, leaf segments, pseudobulbs, aerial roots, and floral parts have been successfully used for in vitro propagation of orchids. Meristem and leaf tip culture are more popular and have been extensively used for propagating commercial species and hybrids.
Tissue culture technique has also been effective for obtaining virus-free clones. Micro cloning is now being used on a commercial scale for propagation of various orchid genera, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Odontoglossum, Phais, Vanda, and others. Explants taken from shoots of 5 to 7. 5 mm long are reported to be the best plant material for propagating endangered and floriculturally important epiphytic orchids.
📹 Deflasking Orchids – explained!
In this video, I show how to deflask (or remove from tissue culture) some dendrobium seedlings from a cross that I made.
It’s cool seeing orchids in such a juvenile stage. Puts into perspective how much time has gone into the mature specimens we buy at the store without a second thought. I”m curious if you’ve encountered any content on what happens as orchids age. I know it might vary by species…I have an oncidium that I’ve uppotted recently and I was wondering if the growth of each new pseudo-bulb compounds in a way that makes future flower spikes larger (more inflorescences) or do they kind of cap out? It’s very hard to find straight answers on these kinds of questions.
Ive been wondering about an orrchid seedling i bought as to wether it should have been sold or not, was in a nursery pot in moss with a 1cm nub of root. Was barely in a medium and no root system at all going on. Was my first orchid too 🤣 but i went down the rabbit hole of care and its in an environment simair to a flask now. Finally starting to root and the root system is branching abit. But was a bit of a scary nightmare. Nuts seeing how amaxing rhe root system on your orchids were as you deflasked! But lots of good info ❤
I find it interesting that you break up the seedlings directly out of flask. The nurseries I’ve talked to open the flask and gradually harden off the seedling mass in greenhouse conditions and when it’s ready, it is put it into a compot for about a year alongside all the rest of the nursery stock. From what I have been told the seedlings usually are not broken up until the following spring after deflasking. Basically, the same steps in a different order. What’s your thought process on this?
Hello, I have a question regarding seed starting plug. I think these sponges are bound by a particular polymer. Does anyone know the name of this polymer used in production of the seed starting sponge plugs? I am open to any documents and information regarding the production of these sponge plugs as well. Thank you