Anise is a popular herb garden plant that can be easily grown, cared for, and harvested. It requires a small, easy-to-grow seed that germinates in about 20 days. To plant anise seeds, sow them ¼ inch deep, spacing plants 6 to 18 inches apart. When seedlings are 6 weeks old, thin them to 18 inches apart or space them 6 inches apart.
Anise trees are easy to grow and care for when planted correctly and in the right spot. However, they can become top-heavy when seed heads form and may require support. Plant anise in a sheltered spot in the garden in full sun and protected from strong, cold winds.
Anise prefers alkaline soil with a pH between 6.3 and 7.0, requiring full sun and well-drained soil. Regular watering is necessary for the plants to be established and withstand periods of drought. Anise care involves using well-drained, loose, loamy soil, and planting in an area with lots of direct sunlight and long sunny days.
Young anise plants require frequent watering until established, while mature plants perform better in light conditions. Anise plants thrive in full sun and should be placed in areas that receive at least six hours of light per day. They require protection from the wind and should be sown directly into the ground or containers in full sun.
📹 Complete Guide to Anise Hyssop – Grow/Care/Germination/Uses
Watch in HD* Anise Hyssop is a flowering perennial native to North America. It has a long bloom time, lasting most of the Summer …
Can anise be grown indoors?
Anise can be cultivated indoors in a container with the requisite warmth, light, and moisture, though it may not bloom as abundantly and may not produce as many seeds without the assistance of pollinators such as honey bees.
Does anise grow fast?
Florida anise is a medium-sized plant that grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 6 to 8 feet wide. Its growth rate can be accelerated by providing uniform moisture and fertilizer, which should be based on soil analysis results. The plant has alternate, evergreen leaves that are elliptic to elliptic-lanceolate in shape and arranged in pseudo-whirls at the end of each stem. The foliage is lustrous to dull, dark green on top and pale green underneath, emitting an aromatic scent similar to licorice when bruised or crushed. Florida anise is deer resistant, according to Dr. Michael Dirr from the University of Georgia.
How long does anise last?
Star anise, native to the southeastern part of China and Vietnam, is a dry fruit with a sweet, warm, earthy flavor. It is commonly used in Chinese, South Asian, and Indonesian cuisines. The spice can be stored in a dark, cool place in an airtight container, with whole star anise lasting about one year and ground star anise lasting about six months before losing its flavor. Barkha Cardoz, founder of Cardoz Legacy, a culinary organization honoring her late husband, chef Floyd Cardoz, enjoys the warm, earthy aroma of star anise in her rice. This heady, licorice-like spice is found in various Asian and South Asian cuisines, including garam masala and Sichuan lamb noodle soup.
How hard is it to grow anise?
Anise is a simple plant that can be easily grown in a garden bed, provided it has well-draining soil and is free of weeds, rocks, and debris. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the seeds 1/2 inch deep and space them 1 inch apart, with rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Anise prefers alkaline soil with a pH between 6. 3 and 7. 0, full sun, and well-drained soil. Regular watering is necessary until the plants are established. Anise can also be grown in containers, with seeds planted at least 8 inches deep. It can be a companion plant with cabbage and grapes, but not near carrots and radishes.
Is anise a sun or shade plant?
The Florida anise plant (Illicium floridanum) is notable for its chartreuse golden foliage, which is fragrant and well-suited to warm season landscapes. It is a species that is best suited to locations with partial sunlight and displays a particularly vibrant appearance in winter gardens. Upon reaching maturity at 5 ft. in height, the plant exhibits an aromatic, compact growth pattern, produces cut flowers, demonstrates resistance to disease and pests, requires minimal maintenance, tolerates high temperatures, and provides year-round interest.
What conditions do anise need to grow?
Anise (Pimpinella anisum) is an annual, non-hardy plant that exhibits optimal growth in loamy and sandy soils with a high nutrient and chalk content. To ensure optimal growth, select a location with well-drained soil and a sunny, warm spot. Anise seeds should be sown from mid-April onwards in a garden bed at a depth of 2 cm, with a row spacing of 30 cm. The specific variety of the plant may vary depending on the country of origin, but it should be planted in a location that receives direct sunlight.
Why is my anise plant turning brown?
Brown spots on Anise Hyssop leaves are visual red flags that can indicate nutrient deficiencies or fungal or bacterial invasion. They can appear as dry or water-soaked, and sometimes have a yellow halo. The progression of brown spots is like a story unfolding on the leaves, starting as tiny specks and growing into larger, more menacing blotches. The location of these spots can provide clues about the underlying issue.
Fungal infections, such as powdery mildew and leaf spot, are common culprits, leaving brown spots with a yellow halo or bullseye pattern. To prevent brown spots, keep the soil damp and ensure the plant isn’t gasping for air in a corner. It’s essential to keep the soil damp, not drenched, and ensure the plant isn’t gasping for air in a corner.
Why are the leaves on my anise plant turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves in Anise Hyssops can indicate nutrient deficiency, and foliar feeding can provide a temporary fix. Soil fertilization is crucial for long-term health, and balanced fertilizers should be used. Adjusting the watering routine to prevent overwatering and ensuring well-draining soil is essential. A consistent watering schedule keeps the soil moist but not soggy, preventing root rot. Combating pests and diseases like aphids and spider mites can also cause yellowing. Isolate affected plants, use insecticidal soap or neem oil, and ensure good air circulation for diseases like powdery mildew. Regular fertilization can help prevent nutrient-related diseases.
What problems does anise have?
Anise Hyssop plants often experience yellow leaves and a sour smell, which are signs of over-watering. To address these issues, it is essential to let the soil dry, trim rot, water deeply, and let topsoil dry between sessions. If the leaves are leggy or scorched, it is crucial to adjust the light and keep the temperature at 65-75°F (18-24°C). Over-watering can lead to root rot and pests, so it is essential to manage watering effectively to ensure the health and growth of your Anise Hyssop.
Is it OK to eat anise?
Anise, a spice plant native to the Mediterranean, Spain, West Asia, Mexico, Egypt, and the Middle East, is commonly consumed in foods and medicine for up to four weeks. It contains chemicals that may have estrogen-like effects, decrease swelling, and help fight off insects. Anise is commonly used for indigestion, constipation, migraine, and menopausal symptoms, but there is no strong scientific evidence supporting these uses. It is well-tolerated but may cause allergic reactions in some individuals.
Why is my anise plant turning yellow?
The discoloration of leaves in anise trees may be attributed to a number of factors, including transplant shock, over- or underwatering, nitrogen deficiency, and temperature fluctuations. The optimal conditions for the cultivation of this species are soil with a neutral to acidic pH, a moisture content that is neither excessive nor deficient, and partial shade.
📹 How To Grow Star Anise In Pots
This is a terrific and very comprehensive article. I will be sharing about this article and of course, Anise Hyssop with my viewers this coming Friday. It’s an extremely valuable pollen and nectar plant for honey bee keepers. What a bonus that it also can deter rabbits and deer. I’d like to get an acre going, we’ll see how that goes. I planted 23 from pots and bees were attending to it within minutes. They quickly located it via the strong scent. Thanks again, very VERY helpful.
I started this plant in February, using the winter sowing method. They did great! I just potted them up into quart size pots and I was pleasantly surprised by the aroma of black licorice that filled the room. I am so looking forward to seeing them bloom. I love your very informative articles on native plants. Please keep them coming.
I assure you this plant is almost 6’ tall in my cottage flower bed and I have tons of them. This year I transplanted it into my largest garden and it turned out to be the star of that bed because my clumps are very large. I am in zone 4 upper midwest and have really sandy soil mulched with grass clippings and wood-chips. Its early October and they are whats keeping the bees going now along with my sedum. I even had a few white ones and they grew from the same seed. We have a large wooded lot surrounded by forest and these plants are never bothered by wildlife. I love them. The seeds have blown to other beds and easily spread to other areas of my yard. They look beautiful when swaying in a breeze. Our soil is very poor in spots and this plant doesn’t care.
Thank you for your superlative information and visuals, as always! Purchased three small Anise Hyssop plants from a nursery three years ago, planted them individually in large round planter pots (one 20″ and two 16″ diameter). All three are incredibly lush, healthy, and thriving in the outdoor planters, which have been left outside every winter (Zone 7a). Anise Hyssop is a summerlong pollinator super magnet! (Then, last summer discovered another bee super magnet at the nursery (“Lesser Catmint” Calamintha nepeta), absolutely swarming with happy bees. Bought three, planted each in a round planter (1×10″ + 2×12″), and all have overwintered perfectly outdoors!)
Idk if you are still active on older articles but this helped me massively and my Anise Hyssop are thriving I also live in a very heavy deer and reindeer area. Suburban Philly and they have not bothered any of my culinary herbs which I mainly grow. Here’s my list of my active plants 1. Anise Hyssop 2. Arugula 3. Basil 4. Dill 5. Kale 6. Marigolds 7. Microgreens 8. Mint 9. Parsley 10. Peppermint 11. Rosemary 12. Sage 13. Thyme
Hi, I just started to watch your complete articles and I think that they are wonderfull!!! I am slowly starting my garden and winter sowed Anise Hyssop from seed that I bought from praire moon nursery. I really appreciate the tip about planting early. I really appreciate how detailed your articles are and the link to your page yelps so much. I’m in 6a in central Massachusetts. Such a great native plan in my area. Thank you
Love this plant! Something I noticed is that it reseeds in areas of less competition from other plants like on the edge of our rain garden next to a macadam street and the slightest crack between our house and driveway. Each year I transplant from these areas and have plenty to share with neighbors and friends.
After I initially watched this article about a year ago, I bought one from a local nursery. I put it in front of my knockout rosebush thinking it would be a nice accent. However, it is now humongous and totally overshadows my knockout rosebush. I will have to relocate it when it goes dormant. I can’t touch it now because it is full of bees from morning tonight. It is a beautiful plant. Thanks for this great article.
Thank you so much. Your articles are beautiful and have so much good information. I have one of these, that I hope to plant soon. It’s been so dry here in northeast Louisiana. With soul having a high clay content, I wanted to wait for cooler temps and more moisture. Temps are still in the 90’s in the sun.
great article! I bought a couple pots at a nursery for my flower beds a couple years ago and it has quickly become a favorite of mine. I wanted to grow lot more for a cut flower garden (great vase life) without buying from a nursery so I bought some seeds. Fingers crossed I can get lots of plants from these seeds, I will be referring to this article come late winter when I start germination.
I would like to reiterate what he said that this was one of the busiest plants the pollinators we’re attracted to in my garden. I would easily say top favorite for bees where I had it planted. It’s not native to my area and I’m making it an exception to include it in my garden for my mostly regional native pollinator garden. Highly recommend this.
A great article beautifully presented. Thank you sir! I have heard of hyssop from the Bible and wondered if it would be attractive to bees and butterflies and now I know! Living in northern UK it seems not to be a problem since it needs the stratification to start so I will give it a try! Blessings and peace
Had recently watched a Q&A article by Frederick Dunn (The Way To Bee) and he mentioned your article on Anise Hyssop. So, I clicked on the link he provided. Just finished perusal about 5 or 6 of your articles on various plants and planting processes and found them enlightening with respect to how to prepare these plants for planting next spring. I keep bees and have a number of acres that I wish to enhance with beneficial flowerings to provide nectar and pollen for them, as there is not a great deal here in the conifer timberline. I’m located just north of the 48th parallel at 4000ft in N. Central Washington and spring is about 4 months away. With seeds that state 30 day cold moist stratify or winter sow, can you do the winter sow in jugs at any time as long as the seeds are planted for a minimum 30 days? Or plant about 30 days before the thaw? I’m looking to start Anise Hyssop, Wild Bergamot, Black Eyed Susans, and maybe a few others. Any recommendation or thoughts? This past spring, I planted a few bare-root Little Leaf Lynden’s, and then 3 5gal potted Apple trees this summer. But these are a few years from providing any value for the bees. Sorry this went a bit long, and thanks for the informative articles.
I planted five of these last month, I love this plant so much! my mom had gotten herself some and has them in pots on her balcony and they’re doing beautifully! But my five plants in an area behind the house that faces north east( her balcony also faces this direction but gets more sun) are NOT. I will say that I have a lot of lavenders in the area I planted mine, they are doing really well. But my anise hyssop isn’t. I started noticing DOWNY mildew right away so I treated that with a combination of baking soda, dish soap, milk, neem, and essential oils and most of the leaves that I sprayed fell off. They seemed unhappy as soon as I put them in the ground. I also watered them with peroxide and water because I suspected root rot as well. The parts where they’re coming out of the ground are very dark colored I don’t know if that is normal but one of them half of the plant broke off. I put some in the ground out of pots last year hoping they would come back, maybe it was too late in the season, I live in zone five in Ohio. Clary Sage and black sage that I planted in that area also they don’t seem happy. With those I thought I was overwatering. There’s a lot of clay but when I dug the holes I filled them with Garden soil and fertilizer. I’m just not sure what I’m doing wrong unless they’re just not getting enough sun. I just can’t figure out how often I should be watering them, if they have route right then I was doing it too much, but it’s been really hot and sunny and no rain. I have a gauge to check the moisture and I wondered if I should be only watering when they gauge says very low.
Nice work . . . I enjoyed the variety of close-up photos and slow-speed article clips. I’ve grown Anise Hyssop for years (in northwest central Wisconsin) and have promoted natural reseeding in my garden. Anise Hyssop is a lovely, versatile native plant. (I was surprised not to see any milkweeds nearby. Your garden beds would be prime spots for it.)
really nice article. I will say that I ordered seeds and decided to just skip cold stratification and start indoors like a month ago – the germ rate is probably lower than with cold stratification but each cell still had several seedlings germinate with a small pinch over each. so don’t think you necessarily missed the boat if you didn’t start cold stratification yet and are willing to use your seed a little less efficiently. either that or the seed purveyor stored the seeds in the cold or something, idk
Hi Joe, I just found your website quite by accident and subscribed. Anise Hyssop also has white flowers. Mine self seeds like crazy which I don’t mind. I have it in a bed with native coneflower which also self seeds along with some salvia and daylilies. The bees and butterflies have a field day. Happy gardening from the Pocono mountains Pa. Zone 6A
Outstanding article ♥️ very informative too.. I started a purple garden a few years ago.. with a butterfly bush, 2 different hyssops a delphinium ((that has since perished) and a dark purple coral bells.. grape soda maybe 🤔.. and it is absolutely wild and overgrown.. the butterfly bush is a garden hog that I’m looking to tame or move.. but this little purple garden .. only about 2×5 .. is an absolute pollinator haven.. as I was perusal this very article I had hummingbirds and butterflies 🦋 visiting.. and no doubt 🐝 🐝🐝, but I’m not close enough to see them 🙂. One of my hyssop plants is struggling..the wind knocked it to the ground when it was about 3 feet tall.. this one gets to 5+ .. and the butterfly bush looks terrible.. But the leaves are sad .. off to see what you might have to say about it!
Question: I was wondering if you could tell me what that fern-like plant is among the prairie patch. ref. 2:42 and 9:26 time stamps in the “Complete Guide to Anise Hyssop – Grow/Care/Germination/Uses” article? Also: I live near the Eastern slope of Pikes Peak Mountain in the Colorado Springs area. So, zone 5 at 6200 ft. above sea level east of the Rockies. The fern-like plant can also be seen at the beginning and at 3:50 time stamp of the “Complete Guide to Butterfly Weed” article. Would that plant grow in my area? THX Recently added: Found your article of the Partridge Pea which describes the fern-like plant I was refering to. Thanks
Hi, amazing article, thumbs up for sure. One question though, it seems there might have been conflicting information. I’m getting ready to winterize my hyssop and in your article you said to cut down to the stem in preparation for winter, however in this article it sounded like you advised to just leave the plant out and not touch it, referencing the plant you had in the pot that survived one winter. So I’m not sure how to winterize my hyssop.
Hello, I live in southeast Michigan and I have 1/4lb of anise hyssop seeds. I have several acres of grassland that I’d like to fill with as much hyssop as I can. It’s currently late March so there are not that many weeks of cold left. What would be the easiest and most successful way to plant large quantities on land that is currently all grass? If I just evenly sprinkle the seed over the grass is there any hope it will grow? How much would the odds increase if I tilled up the grass first? I just don’t have the time to start all those seeds in planters and then transplant them… I could do some, but I’m hoping there’s a “quantity over quality” strategy that will work well enough to still cover a large area. Thanks!
A very informative article. I planted a few plants several years ago along a fence and behind a hosta garden. The have spread everywhere even to the other side of the fence by self sowing. When do you remove the flower/seed pod in order to prevent the self sowing? Also, there are so many flowers is there a simple way to do this? Thank you
Hi Joe, Well, proved to myself that I definitely have a brown thumb. I tried the water jug method of winter sowing. Not much came up and those that did, did not do very well once transplanted to pots and then to ground. It’s now December and we have snow on the ground (2-3″) with rain coming in next few days. Is it possible to cast/spread seeds onto snow and having them reach soil/dirt/ and possibly germinated with the spring thaw? I ask because I have about an acre I’m wanting to seed and the pot method would be a lot of individual planting. Thanks for the great articles.
All of mine have died over the winter as we have clay soil. Is there any way to get them to survive clay soils? Would I better off direct sowing them maybe? I have Verbena bonariensis and Echinacea purpurea that self seeds and manage to tolerate the clay in this area. Otherwise I’ll have to grow this as an annual each year because the amount of bees that flock to this is outstanding!