Proper spacing is crucial for healthy growth and a lush appearance when planting myoporum ground cover. To water and feed myoporum, keep the soil evenly moist and give it moderate water. Fertilize monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer and mulch around the plant to ensure proper watering. Myoporum thrives in well-draining soil with moderate watering, making it low maintenance. It requires full sunlight for optimal growth.
Watering is essential, especially during the first few weeks or until established. Once established, myoporum is quite drought tolerant and needs infrequent watering. Form a raised or doughnut-shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone to keep water where it’s needed. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil.
Myoporum parvifolium is relatively low-maintenance and requires little water once established. For most situations, water deeply every 2 weeks after establishment. In desert landscapes, infrequent, regular watering is required. Pruning is important for its rapid growth.
Myoporum parvifolium is best used in Sunset Garden Climate Zones 8, 9, and 12-24. It enjoys full sun and moderate to little water once established. Too much water will prove fatal. The plant likes full sun and reflected heat and has low to moderate water needs and does not like to be over-watered.
Under glass, grow in loam-based compost in full light with shade from hot sun. Water freely and feed monthly in growth. Requires little water once established and can tolerate periods of drought, but a more robust-looking planting is achieved with a light regular watering.
📹 Myoporum – grow & care
Myoporum – grow & care Myoporum for sale https://amzn.to/2EAQifM How to grow Myoporum Alternative names: Booballia s.
How often should I water myoporum?
It is recommended that a deep watering be performed every two weeks following the establishment of the plant in the majority of cases.
Why is my myoporum turning brown?
Leaf blight results in the desiccation and browning of leaves at their apices. The appropriate solution depends on the underlying cause. However, in general, cultural care methods that enhance plant health and root functionality can effectively mitigate the symptoms.
How often should you water ground cover?
Plants like jasmine, ivy, salvias, lantana, roses, yaupons, and hollies thrive with twice a month watering in the absence of rain, never exceeding ¾ inch per square foot. Scientifically based advice is preferred, with no more than these water applications for lawns, groundcover, perennials, and shrubs. For trees, established native and adapted non-native trees rarely need supplemental irrigation, but if a month significantly lacks normal rainfall, 1 ¼ inch per square foot, or about 1 gallon per square foot, once a month, is recommended.
Established palms only need water twice a year at most. While there may be slight variations based on soil, shade, slope, season, and species, it is recommended to follow these recommendations for optimal plant growth and survival.
Does myoporum like sun or shade?
The prostrate myoporum is a glossy evergreen plant native to New South Wales, Victoria, and southern Australia. It forms an even mat along the ground, with small, lush, and serrated leaves. In spring, it produces star-like blossoms that attract bees, and in late spring, small berries cover the plant, which is sweet and edible. The plant has low to moderate water needs and can be grown in various soil conditions, but prefers amended, well-draining soil.
It can freeze below 25 degrees Fahrenheit and requires heavy pruning in the spring. It is used for erosion control and as a bank cover in sloping sites. It is a great substitute for lawns due to its green and lush appearance. The plant is native to these regions.
Is myoporum drought tolerant?
Myoporum is a drought-tolerant plant found in frost-free coastal areas of California, from San Francisco Bay to the south. It grows rapidly and reproduces easily in wet soils. However, dense stands of myoporum can stunt or eliminate the growth of slower-growing native plant species due to its heavy seed production and bird food. The leaves of myoporum are toxic and can be fatal to livestock. The interior of the myoporum shrub is highly susceptible to wildfire.
How do you care for a myoporum plant?
This Australian native ground-cover, Myoporum, is a densely growing plant with soft green foliage and white flowers. It is suitable for controlling weeds in hard-to-reach areas and attracts birds. It prefers full sun and free-draining soil, and is frost and drought hardy. To care, mulch, water well, prune yearly, and feed with a controlled release native fertiliser once a year. The plant is tubestock, healthy young plants with new roots, and comes in a pot size of 80mm high and 42mm wide.
What is the problem with myoporum parvifolium?
Myoporum Parvifolium is not highly pest-prone, but common infestations include Chocolate root rot and spider mites. Myoporum thrips can cause lasting damage to creeping Myoporum, causing curled leaves, branch dieback, and stem tip damage. Applying neem oil, a natural pest repellent, is an easy approach to keep these insects away.
Consuming Myoporum Parvifolium berries is advised as they can cause discomfort to humans and animals. Although it is suitable for jams and jellies, it can cause symptoms such as nausea, drooling, appetite loss, vomiting, cramps, and diarrhea when consumed by animals. It is best to keep the berries out of reach of pets, as they can cause symptoms such as nausea, drooling, appetite loss, vomiting, cramps, and diarrhea.
What is the best fertilizer for myoporum?
To grow Myoporum Parvifolium, use a low-phosphorus, slow-release fertiliser at planting and once a year after pruning. This figwort thrives in well-drained sandy soil, but cannot withstand alkaline conditions. Test the soil for alkalinity and apply peat moss if needed. If the groundcover develops bare spots, take stem cuttings from this year’s growth and plant hardened cuttings to fill in the gaps. Plant food is recommended for this purpose. The plant is low-maintenance but requires a well-drained environment with a pH below 7.
Can I use Miracle-Gro every time I water?
For instant and water-soluble fertilization, use Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, which can be mixed directly into a watering can or used with a sprayer for larger areas. Feed every 7 to 14 days. For less frequent feeding, use Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed® All Purpose Plant Food, which can be sprinkled onto the soil surface and watered thoroughly.
Feed regularly, even in summer, to replenish nutrients throughout the growing season. Annual vegetables and flowers respond well to continuous-release feeding that reaches deep down to their roots, promoting bigger, more productive plants. Plant food “flavors” should be considered, as different plant types require different nutrient balances. Nitrogen grows green leaves and stems, while phosphorus promotes strong roots and abundant flowers. Potassium helps plants protect themselves from disease, drought, and other stressors.
While all-purpose plant food is a good choice for mixed plant types, consider tailoring your choice if you prefer vegetable gardening or prefer to surround yourself with flowers.
How much sun does myoporum need?
The prostrate myoporum is a glossy evergreen plant native to New South Wales, Victoria, and southern Australia. It forms an even mat along the ground, with small, lush, and serrated leaves. In spring, it produces star-like blossoms that attract bees, and in late spring, small berries cover the plant, which is sweet and edible. The plant has low to moderate water needs and can be grown in various soil conditions, but prefers amended, well-draining soil.
It can freeze below 25 degrees Fahrenheit and requires heavy pruning in the spring. It is used for erosion control and as a bank cover in sloping sites. It is a great substitute for lawns due to its green and lush appearance. The plant is native to these regions.
What is the best way to water ground cover?
Drip lines are a cost-effective and efficient way to water plants in ornamental gardens. They use built-in emitters that deliver water to the root zones of plants, providing a permanent watering system. As water scarcity and droughts become more prevalent in North America, drip irrigation systems are an attractive solution. By avoiding watering foliage, fungal diseases, and pesticides, plants thrive with less water, and weeds are minimized.
Drip irrigation systems can be easily adjusted to fit different garden changes, including perennials, annuals, shrubs, trees, ground covers, and even potted plants. The system can be easily adjusted by adding optional parts such as filters, water-pressure reducers, hose swivels, emitters, and flexible polyethylene tubing. A backflow preventer may be required by the municipal water department.
Other optional parts include 1/4-inch solid tubing, 1/4-inch drip line, connecting tees, 90-degree elbows, connecting barbs, hold-downs, goof plugs, timers, and fertilizer injectors. These parts can be purchased at hardware stores, garden centers, or specialized irrigation systems companies.
In summary, drip irrigation is a cost-effective and efficient way to water plants in ornamental gardens. It uses a series of emitters to deliver water to the root zones of plants, reducing water usage and reducing the need for pesticides.
📹 Amazing PET FRIENDLY No-Mow Lawn Substitute – Ruschia ‘Nana’ (Dwarf Carpet of Stars)
If you are looking replace your thirsty grass lawn with something that is drought tolerant, pet friendly, super hardy, low …
As an Ohio native, I definitely feel for all the comments lamenting that they can’t plant this lawn alternative in their cold zones. However, living in Utah now with our major drought, this was the right answer at the right time for me. Thank you SO much! We definitely are going to research this; the water situation here probably won’t magically get better in the next few years and our lawn is going to need to go eventually. This is perfect.
I don’t worry about the front yard at all, because in April I bought my first brand new house. The builder put about six inches of caliche over the entire yard. When I figure out what it was and that I couldn’t grow anything in it, I was initially frustrated. Now, I decided to turn lemons into lemonade. I just made a rock landscape similarly to what you would find in Arizona.
If you have a shady lawn or at least part-shade, try White Strawberries. Seriously. Evergreen here in Zone 6! Gets up to 6-8″, and stands up to the pups. Good news is it feeds the bunnies and bees, too. Super good news is that it’ll take over a shaded/part-shade lawn, meaning you don’t have to get rid of the lawn ahead of time. Of course this means it’ll take a few years, but it’s a hella lotta easier. Regarding PRE-EMERGENT use … if you do it wrong //at all//, it’s a fertilizer for the weeds instead of an environmentally safe killer. Be very, very careful.
Theres many different ground cover succulents native to the oregon Washington and California coasts! I live in Oregon and this gave me the idea to go collect a bunch of em and replace parts of my lawn with the ground cover, I live only a few hundred yards from the beach and get ocean mist all the time around my property and the conditions are basically beach conditions!
COLD WEATHER GROUND COVERS I am in Canada and my favourite ground cover is creeping Jenny. It is a bright, light green, grows very quickly, close to the ground. It is very short and forms a mat. There is also Periwinkle that grows a little bit taller. It has dark glossy leaves and purple flowers. Both of these are exceptionally hardy even though our winters are often well below minus forty degrees. If you want a hardy ground cover that comes in a variety of colours, creeping phlox is another that is easily grown here. It comes in white and different shades of pinks and purples. Forty degrees below zero is where Fahrenheit and Celsius are the same.
Florida here too and I’ve been considering various groundcovers to replace my Bahia for years now, especially since we get a drought 8-9 months out of the year. I don’t have an irrigation system nor do I use chemicals on my lawn because of kids and pets. I do have an HOA (thankfully not as strict as others) so I have to be careful about what to put in the front yard, but the back yard is fair game. I like the aspect of this being able to handle extremes in temperatures and moisture, so thank you! I might need to reference this article when I finally submit my request to the HOA to redo the front yard landscape
This looks lovely. Two questions that would help me decide if it’s right for my yard: first, how much shade can it handle? My yard is mainly filtered sunlight/shade with a few areas that have almost full sunlight. Also, how long did it take to fill in with the pictures you have of your beautiful yard? Thanks! Great article. 🙂
It looks…. THICK! It looks like it will squish under your feet. It looks like a succulent. Is it a deep root? I need something that will provide a place for run off and rain to dissipate. Will it survive above the freeze line? Is it comparable to GM grass, I’m still curious about those types that only grow so long and then stop so you do not have to mow it. What about insects? This looks like bugs would just love it. It also looks like birds will love it too.
This is interesting. I have some rescue dogs I care for that this would be great to use for. Does this need to be planted and take hold before letting them loose in an area? Or could I plant it and let them use the area. They don’t dig or anything. Just their outside space where they go get some sun and stuff.
Such a cool idea! So gorgeous! Do you have a plant that comes to mind for a wetter, colder climate? We get a little snow just a couple weeks a year and I don’t think we ever break 100 degrees F in summer, moss grows well in yards here, for example, I don’t know if a succulent plant like Nana would. Anything come to your mind that shares all these characteristics (walk on barefoot, dog friendly, etc) of Nana, for a wetter environment?
Sounds like a realistic alternative. And I’m a major skeptic of everything the left does these days. However, I will give credit where it’s due. You have a real plant, it’s fixing a massive and real problem. I hear Las Vegas actually banned lawns altogether because the ground water got so bad. And it’s not like normal lawns are all that great either. The one I have is half dead and the crows tear it apart regularly. And I really can’t be bothered to maintain it.
Thank you for this article. I created a small area in my succulent rock garden to plant the nana in October 2020. It has grown and spread but I don’t have full coverage. I mulched the bare spots. How long can I expect it to continue to spread and grow? Is there anything I can do to encourage more growth (e.g. fertilize, more water) or has the growth period passed? I’m trying to be patient and not buy more if I don’t have to. I”m loving my pink blooms right now….it makes me happy.
Impressive plant, they are so flourishing Young girls like them very much.Thanks for your ideas,people will have a beautiful lawn full of green accordingly, I like you article. Just for who need SEBOSS hardware cloth,1/2,1/4 opening,19 GA, Hot dip galvanized after welding, double galvanized, strong and sturdy, delicate and beautiful, suitable as gopher wire, protect lawn/garden from all kinds of gophers.
I don’t want a lawn that has to be hand weeded. That is what they don’t tell you about most lawn replacements. You have to weed then on your hands and knees. These are good for small spaces only. It might HELP to suppress weeds, but it really, really doesn’t prevent them. I’ve fallen for lawn replacements before!
The problem is people want a perfect looking yard all of the time. I only water my grass when I’ve planted some new seed, something I don’t do often. When there are drought conditions I don’t care if my lawn turns brown. It will come back when the rain does. I set my battery powered mower to the highest level of cutting and let it mulch the grass so that what moisture is on the ground is shaded and doesn’t evaporate as much. The longer grass also means longer roots to find water and nutrients. The mulching returns nutrients back to the soil. I’ve seeded clover throughout my yard a long time ago. I had noticed that the grass around small clumps of clover was much greener than grass that was further away from clover. Clover is a wonder nitrogen fixer, looks nice, stays green even when the grass has turned brown, and is able to handle traffic. I don’t add any fertilizer or use chemicals to get rid of unwanted things on my lawn. A couple of the neighbours don’t like it because it doesn’t look like a golf course green but they can get lost. My lawn looks great, doesn’t take much work, and the wildlife enjoys it.
While I’m perusal this I’m not thinking about replacing my lawn. I’m thinking about replacing the mulch in all of my flower beds that surround my home. I’m so tired of mulch and the look of it. I’m using shredded hardwood mulch. I’m thinking I can use this as a mulch replacement. Then when I want to plant a plant I can just cut out a circle and put the plant in place. The only question is what will happen to the plants, will this stuff choke them out even though the bush or flowers are larger and taller? Also what will happen when it surrounds small trees like Crepe Myrtles? How deep down do the roots of this plant grow?
Well this is great for small lawns in Vegas, but what about something for us northern folk with lots of land? I need something good down to -20F that’s hardy and I can plant BY SEED since I have several acres to do. I know there ARE several good varieties of creeping phlox, BUT they all come in pots and you gotta plant 🙁 not something i’d look forward to doing over a few acres 😉
keep in mind when shopping for new lawns, this dwarf carpet of stars is amazing in every way EXCEPT that it only lasts 4-5 years and then it will naturally turn very woody and die off and will need to be replanted. that is really the singular bad thing about it. this article covers all of the plus’s about it but leaves out the lifespan. happy gardening!
Great article and great instructions – this article really inspired me to try Rushia lineolata ‘Nana’! Largely based on your article, I ripped out 60ft2 of a steep-sloped area of my front yard in Summerlin / Las Vegas, NV to plant Ruschia L Nana. This area of the front next to the sidewalk was always a royal pain to landscape – it’s south-facing and super hot in the summer. I tore out a couple of Dwarf Coyote Brush Twin Peaks #2 that were always hugely struggling just to survive in the typical Vegas residential gravel-covered xeriscapes that prevails here. I’m curious though… in your article, I see underground drip grid lines for irrigation. I’ve done the same thing with my Ruschia remodel using Netafim 0.6GPH tubing @ 12″ emitter spacing with 12″ between rows. So, what did you use for underground tubing? I know there are climate differences (it obviously looks like you’re in SoCal?), but I’m hoping this 0.6GPH tubing will do the job here. If I could figure out how to attach a picture, I’d show you the tubing grid I installed. But I did it first-class. I used to have an irrigation license in Texas probably back before you were born, but I still have the knowledge and mojo to do it right LOL! Interestingly, Rushia LN doesn’t seem available in Las Vegas – even though The LV Springs Persevere highly advocates its use. I bought two flats from a nursery in San Diego while visiting family a couple of weeks ago. Tomorrow – the Rushia LN goes in with the pre-emergents and soil amendments! Excited to see the results!
I have clay soil which you say should be rototilled first. I’ve been reading that you should disturb the soil as little as possible. Right now I’ve cardboard all over the yard, doing the “no dig” theory, in an effort to eradicate the deadly-to-dogs foxtails and to improve the soil. Eventually, the cardboard will be covered with 3-4″ compost and then mulch. Could this ground cover be the mulch?
I’m using prostrated knotweed. I don’t really know how to maintain it but it takes a beating and doesn’t really need all that watering. I’m sure if I treated it a little better it would get better. But I really don’t know how to treat it. Super low maintenance though – especially up here in the Arizona high desert.
Such a pretty lawn!! We have a dreadful grass that grows so long extremely quickly, it’s a trip hazard, so I’ve been looking at alternatives to it. This is by far my favourite!! Though I’m in the UK, and I think it’s rained heavily for some of every day since May started… so… hmmm, overwatering might be an issue 🤦♀
I have an acre to mow, so this is very interesting. My main concerns are roots drowning in our rainy season, weeds will crowd it out, and will it grow under my large trees. Also, winters are getting colder where I live in Louisiana. We’re getting in the teens in the last 7 of 10 winters, so don’t look like it’s suitable for the Gulf South.
Interested in possibly doing this….im starting from a yard of weeds after buying my home. Any further suggestions for someone in central california trying to do this in full backyard and front yard? How does it fare alongside fruit or citrus trees? Im interested in planting 1-2 fruit/citrus trees in the future
I’m in North Idaho, Zone 6b. An internet search says Ruschia Nana is adapted to USDA climate zones of 6 to 10. So it sounds like it would work in theory. What actually happens to the plant in the winter with snowy conditions? Temps here occasionally get below 5 degrees F so will it all die off at that point?
What pre-emergent do you recommend for Ruschia Nana? I already roto tilled my front yard to aerate it. (It’s clay soil.) And I raked/sifted out the grass that came up with the tilling. I stopped watering the yard about a year ago with plans to replace it with Ruschia Nana as my new ground cover with drip irrigation.
Not that a mown grass monoculture is great for your local insects/pollinators, but what does it do to local biodiversity when whole yards are being planted with this non-native species? I like my lawn being littered with all sorts of tiny flowers that attract bees and others. These in turn also pollinate the fruit trees.
I have a really deep culvert in the front of my house. I’m at the end of the street so I have all of my neighbor’s water running down through my ditch. My ditch from ground level height to bottom of ditch is about 4 feet. The ditch is about 200 ft long. This is incredibly difficult for me to mow because of the slopes. I was excited when I saw your article. However, I’m wondering how I can stop the Dwarf Carpet of Stars from overtaking my entire yard. I need to make sure if I put a barrier between the two that it doesn’t impede the water draining from my yard down into my big ditch. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Hi, do you have recommendations on patches that have the yellow (overwatered) patches? Most of the yard is ok, but some parts are slightly yellow. Should I water around it, and avoid the patches completely or just reduce the watering for everything completely? We are doing 7-10 days and in the San Fernando valley of Los Angeles.
How will Ruschia deal with sunlight reflected of a window in the summer? In San Diego I have (been trying to get) Dymondia to survive between concrete pads (~8 in apart) and survive the extra blast of light that is in addition to the direct summer sun & seems to fry the dymondia that I though was established. Would Ruschia fare better in this space once established? Also I woiuld like to keep the Dymondia in the areas that arn’t affected by the window glare blast. Will the Ruschia / Dymondia interface play well with one another?
FWIW, if you dig biochar into the soil–10% by weight is good–you won’t have to water NEARLY as often, as it absorbs and holds onto water and nutrients, as well as acting like a coral reef for soil flora. (It is vital that you mix it with compost and water before digging it in, otherwise it will initially leach water and nutrients out of the soil.)
Once it has grown, it remains good for three to four years, after which it can turn woody. Replace it after this point. It may be advisable to change it in phases if you use it for a display as its life expectancy approaches the end. By doing this, you will always have some greenery where you need it.
My HOA want us to have a LAWN! They have rules, but, they cannot enforce them because we have severe water restrictions. We have hot humid summers in Florida and a lot of rain. Almost daily. And then the dry season hits, for us it was basically as soon as hurricane Ian passed it cleared up and has not rained since then. Just like flipping a light switch it is the dry season. It would be nice to be able to get by on one watering every two weeks. Also since surgery last year I am basically crippled and maintaining a 1/3 acre lot has gotten difficult. Previous owners had let the yard go, it was used as a rental for a long time. An estimate for cut out and re sod (just that and nothing more) was over $8,000 and I do not want to pay it given two years ago it would have been $4,500, and I could re sod only to watch it die again. In Florida we have a legal right to xeriscape and HOAs cannot ban that, I wonder if this would qualify?