Vanda orchids are commonly grown in pots due to their ability to tolerate high temperatures year-round. To ensure their success, they should be placed in bright light, planted in a basket with a soilless medium for optimal air circulation, and watered more than other types of orchids. This may require daily or twice-a-day watering in extremely hot weather.
To properly care for Vanda orchids, hang them correctly, water them frequently in warm weather, use root cuttings for propagation, use 20-20-20 fertilizer, use the right soil, and repot them carefully. A mixture of bark and moss should be used for potting Vanda orchids, which should be repotted every two to three years or when they outgrow their current pot.
Pots are best for most household conditions as they hold more moisture around the roots. Vandas are heavy feeders and require regular fertilizers to grow and bloom well. They can be grown in pots, watered 2 out of 3 days in summer, and placed on a bench.
As epiphytic plants, Vanda orchids need very little potting media, such as osmunda (tree fern roots), coarse fir bark, coconut husks, and other materials. By following these tips, you can ensure the success of growing vandas indoors.
📹 Growing Vanda Orchids in Pots – Thoughts and Repotting
Today we talk about how growing Vanda orchids is not only possible, but even very successful! More info below! Since most …
Can you overwater a Vanda orchid?
Watering Vanda’s is crucial for their health and growth. Overwatering can cause fungus and pest issues, while underwatering can leave them dehydrated and droopy. Vandas should be watered twice daily for about 10 minutes each time, with a third watering just before 11am on hot days. The goal is to allow the roots to absorb moisture over a short period, rather than an extended soaking.
Upon receiving Vandas, they should have active root growth on their tips. If there are brown or yellow roots that look shriveled or thin, they are likely dead and not actively absorbing water. However, there is no need to cut them off. As long as Vandas have more “good” roots than “bad”, they will absorb moisture.
When first watering Vanda roots, allow water to run off the roots tips for a few seconds before moving on to the next plant. Some roots may green up immediately, while others may not. If caring for a large collection of orchids, water each orchid until water run-off, then return to the first plant and water a second time.
If using an irrigation system, run it for 5-10 minutes, 2-3 times per day to allow the plants time to absorb water. Watering frequency is equally important, with early morning watering before 10am and evening watering after 5pm. Midday watering before noon can also help avoid watering at the hottest parts of the day. Watering at different times of the day and even overnight can help maintain airflow and prevent plants from staying wet for an extended period.
What is the lifespan of a Vanda orchid?
Vanda orchids have a cycle of growth and death, with flowers dying back and the flower spike drying up. The plant then focuses on growing taller or growing another spike until it dies. Vanda orchids can live for 15-20 years. The “dormant” stage is when the flower focuses on creating new roots or lacks nutrients for faster growth. The plant doesn’t go dormant as long as its needs are met, and its energy is directed based on the flowering cycle and the orchid’s environment, including temperature and daylight. Vanda orchids are forgiving with their blooms, so if they have had trouble in the past, they will produce beautiful blooms next time. To improve the blooms, follow these tips:
- Water the plant regularly, ensuring it gets enough sunlight and proper care.
- Fertilize the plant with a balanced diet of nutrients and vitamins.
- Water the orchid regularly, but not too much.
What does an overwatered orchid look like?
Identifying the problem of overwatering and root rot is crucial for rescuing an orchid. Common symptoms include yellowing leaves, brown spots, wilted leaves, soft and mushy roots, an unpleasant rot smell, and lack of new leaves or flowers. Once identified, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. If the roots are black or brown and mushy to the touch, they have rotted due to overwatering. This step is essential for ensuring the orchid’s health and growth.
Can Vanda orchids be potted in pots?
Vanda orchids should be re-potted when they outgrow their pots or if their potting medium has deteriorated. They can be grown in baskets, small pots, or hanging without any growing medium. Potted plants should have a coarse, chunky orchid mix with excellent drainage and air circulation, such as fir bark, lava, or charcoal. Use quality orchid potting mixes and never substitute landscape mulches for orchid potting mediums. Vandas grown in baskets can be gently moved to a larger basket without removing the old basket.
Hygiene is crucial for orchids, and they should be washed occasionally with mild soapy water to reduce debris and insect infestation. Handling them with gloves and handwashing hands often between handling is recommended. Stem cutting should be done using sterilized tools or a clean, single-edged razor blade.
Sudden decline in late fall is common in the northeast, making it difficult to maintain natural light and humidity levels. Test the environment and adjust the balance of light, humidity, warmth, and nutrition, using a humidifier and supplemental artificial light if necessary.
What time of year do Vanda orchids bloom?
Vandas are plants that grow on tree tops along ridges along rivers and prefer bright light. They can be grown indoors under south window exposure or outdoors in the summer or all year long, as long as night temperatures are in the upper 50’s (degrees Fahrenheit) or above. They can be grown under dappled sunlight such as a shade tree or an evergreen, gradually exposed to brighter light.
Vandas require warm temperatures, except for vanda coerulea and some of its hybrids. Daytime temperatures in the 70’s to 90’s are ideal, with night temperatures in the low to mid 60’s. Vandas are grown in teak baskets or pots, with pots being best for high humidity areas like greenhouses, growing chambers, or outdoors. Plants should be watered just as the medium dries out, approximately every 5-7 days for larger clay pots.
Humidity is crucial for Vandas, as they can be grown without any potting medium if provided enough humidity. To maintain moisture, lightly pack New Zealand sphagnum moss around the roots. Fertilizing is recommended with Grow More 20-10-20 at 1 tsp. per gallon or Green Jungle Orchid Food, which works well with rain, distilled, reverse osmosis water, or water low in alkalinity.
Vandas can flower at any time of year, with the heaviest flowering season occurring between spring and fall. To maintain their growth, keep the mix moist when buds or start flowering, and try misting the bulbs to dissolve sugary secretions.
Potting Vandas in teak baskets requires coarse charcoal or bark, and repotting should be done every 2 years or as the root system expands above the pot. Clay pots are preferred as they breathe better than plastic.
Should I water my orchid from the top or bottom?
Orchids grown in sphagnum moss can be watered from the top like other plants, but it may be easier to soak them in a sink or basin to allow them to rehydrate. Sphagnum moss holds on to moisture longer than bark chips, so it may feel dry on the surface but still be damp inside the pot. Overwatering is easier if the orchids are in a plastic, glazed ceramic, or glass pot that retains water longer. If the orchids start to show brown or squishy roots, hold off on watering.
Rainwater or melted snow is the best water for orchids, as it contains nitrogen and is free of chemicals used to treat tap water. Regular tap water is fine if not softened with salts. Room temperature water is best, but ice cubes can be used to water the orchids without harming the plant. Place up to three ice cubes on top of the potting medium once a week, ensuring enough moisture to keep the orchid thriving.
How do I force my Vanda orchid to bloom?
Vandas are high-light orchids that require direct sunlight for proper blooming. They thrive in windowsills, but should be protected from hot midday sun to avoid scorching the leaves. The ideal placement is behind a sheer curtain to flood the plant with light and reduce the sun’s burn factor. The ideal temperature range for Vandas is between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius, as cold weather can damage root tips and stall growth. Ideally, Vandas should be protected from temperatures below ten degrees Celsius.
To grow Vandas, they require regular fertilizers, which should be mixed at half the recommended dosage. Some growers suggest using high-phosphor fertilizers to encourage blooming, but Dr. Motes from Motes Orchids in South Florida suggests using the Michigan State fertilizer ratio. When choosing a fertilizer, look for one with a low middle number, as fertilizers have a N: P: K ratio, representing the ratio between Nitrogen (N), Phosphor (P), and Potassium (K). This will help Vandas bloom properly and maintain their growth.
Does Vanda need full sun?
Vanda coerulea hybrids thrive in warm to hot climates, preferring temperatures between 55F-72F (12. 7C-22. 2C) nights and 70F-95F (21. 1C-35C) days. They prefer quick wet/dry cycles and grow very exposed, so they need daily watering regardless of whether they’re potted, hanging basket, or mounted. Water temperature should be between 50F (10C) and lukewarm, as temperatures below 50F (10C) may injure plants. Northern growers can expose most species to full sun without issue.
Higher day temperatures can be tolerated with increased humidity, water, air circulation, and shading. Watering Vanda in a greenhouse should be done daily, using lukewarm water, as temperatures below 50F (10C) may cause harm.
How often should Vanda orchids be watered?
Vandas, or orchids, should be watered daily, especially if grown bare root. For potted Vandas, watering occurs when the medium dries out and is lightly damp to the touch, every 5 to 7 days. Small plants in clay pots can dry out within a couple of days. Watering Vandas more often during blooming and throughout the blooming period is recommended. When repotting Vandas during the active growing season, water the media for at least 7 days to prevent root cuts and breaks from rotting.
Watering in the morning allows leaves to dry and avoids bacterial growth overnight. If possible, use low-alkalinity water, such as rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis water. If you have a dehumidifier, the water collected in the tray is excellent for watering orchids. Green Jungle Orchid Food is recommended for providing orchids with the nutrients they would naturally encounter in their wild habitats. This fertilizer works best with low-alkalinity water, but tap water may be used.
Why are the leaves on my Vanda plant turning yellow?
To prevent yellowing leaves in Vanda orchids, check moisture levels, water thoroughly, and assess light exposure. Overwatering can suffocate roots, while soggy potting mediums should be allowed to dry out. Direct sunlight can scorch leaves, causing yellowing. Seasonal light changes require care routine adaptations. Identify yellowing leaves by their patterns, starting at the tips or spreading across the leaf. Progression is key, with slow yellowing on lower leaves being normal, while widespread or rapid changes signal trouble. Restoring the lush, vibrant beauty of your Vanda orchid is crucial.
Do orchids like big or small pots?
Orchids should be repotted every 2-3 years, when they start to push out new root growth. The size of the pot depends on the orchid’s growth rate and the size of the clump and root mass. For most orchids, a pot with a top diameter about a third to a half of the plant’s height is suitable. Clay pots can be used to repot orchids, as they last for many years and can be used over and over. Clay pots dry out the medium faster, preventing rot in the inner root system.
They also remove mineral salts from the mixture, leaving fertilizer salt residue on the outer surface. Clay pots also help measure moisture levels, and it is important not to over-pot. All orchids need oxygen around their roots, and smaller pots have more external surface area for air exchange. It is better to under-pot than over-pot, as too large pots can result in rotting the inner core of roots. More information on re-potting can be found in the guide Potting and Dividing Orchids and Orchid Care Guides.
📹 Growing Vandas Indoors in Dry Conditions
In this video I talk about how to grow vanda orchids indoors, however I neglect to mention they need very bright conditions. Please …
I live in Maine, USA, and my home is only around 50°F at night. After an EXTREMELY GRADUAL transition period, I have had very good success with water culture for almost 2 years now, with flowers and fat healthy roots. I keep them in a southern window in clear glass containers with the bottom 1/3 of the roots submerged. I know that WC isn’t for everyone, but it really works for me. 🙂
I’m currently growing two Vanda seedlings I got from a garden center. I took them home and repotted them in a orchid mix I use and they’re currently thriving in the mix. They have doubled in roots in the last month. I just purchased the repotme orchid food MSU. I haven’t tried this product on any of my orchids yet and I’m super excited to see how it does. Btw I live in The USA and my state is super hot and humid. I have my orchids next to the window and they seem to be really loving it. Thank you for the articles. I am kinda new to orchids and all of the articles and suggestions you have given have worked 100% for my plants.
Zone 6 grower here, USA. Mine are all potted and have been…just about my entire 5 yrs of growing. I have a few in large baskets with lava rock and shredded coconut husk around their roots. They LOVE it. Great root growth and thriving with blooms! Mind you…my ” media” is VERYYYYY large. Large bits of lava rocks and loose and airy shredded basket liner ( cocohusk) is perfect for those of us who hate daily watering. In summer when they go outside, they STILL love it! The media doesn’t stay soggy/ wet.
I have one vanda growing in a pot but without soil. I placed the vanda in the pot pre pandemic thinking I will get to it once I find a basket. But I forgot about it and it has been doing so well in a corner and has started to flower. Now It has grown so big and the roots are a tangled mess inside a very large pot. Maybe in a few years I will move it once more roots come out from the upper portion.
Thanks for the article,I bought 35 vandas 2 years ago and they look like they just came out of an invitro jar I am going to try your method if they die so be it 2 years and they look exactly like the day I bought them I have then with plenty of natural light plenty of fertilizer plenty of water and I live in the rain forest in central America so why they don’t grow is a mystery coming to an end I am done with these vandas……
Keeping bare root Vandas in my neck of the woods …. yeah, right !…. it’s February, technically the middle of the winter, the temperature is 85°F and bone dry, wait when the spring shows with 100 – 110 °F temps and even more bone dry. Now Danny, please tell us what can we use instead of moss cuz that thing is nowhere to be seen here !
Hi Danni. I need some help with a phal that was knocked on the floor by my cat. It was very healthy, good roots. The fall broke some of the roots and a baby spike, but especially it lost the top leaf, so I don’t thank it will be able to grow from now on. My only hope is a keiki. Is there any way I can encourage it to grow a keiki?
I’m growing my vandas indoors under LEDs in plastic pots in moss/bark/leca. I have a Neofinetia in full moss, tesselata and tricolor in a mix, and Rhynchostylis in a semi hydro setup and I keep them on a heat mat because they grow hot. Winters are really dry but my grow room stays pretty warm so this works well for me! Hoping your small ones pull through! 🙏
Thank you for sharing your experience in Vandas. I’m growing 2 regular size Vandas ( Pachara Delight and Goodwin’s Glitzy Gala) in orchid pots with lots of whole in bark medium. They are growing well indoors, yes they need A Lot of Light to bloom. I soak them in water for about 10 minutes then let them dry out well. My Rhy cartoon is doing well. It’s just a pup but it managed to put out 2 new leafs this year. It has a little bump in between the leafs. I’m crossing my fingers for a spike development. Currently in bark medium. Finally I have a Vandaenopsis Pulcherrimin. Like The Neo Vanda this one is very easy to grow. Stays short and is rather a cool plant. Will put out multiple spikes and I suspect the little bumps that are spikes developing. This one has a bark/sphagnum mix. I soak this one for about 10 minutes as well. Feeding wise I fertilze them every 2 weeks. I thought I would share my experience in vandas with you.
Great article! I’m growing the majority of my vanda type orchids in water culture. I tend to soak them a couple days of the week and let them dry out but also keep about an inch of water in the bottom of the container. Most are sending out new healthy roots. I’ve been doing this for only about 8 months so far, so I’m not sure how they will do in the long term. I did have to cut off a significant amount of roots (maybe 80%) to get them into the containers. I saw no issues with this drastic move.
I am always looking to see your articles🙌🙌🙌I have no problem growing vandas my problem is how big they grow. I went crazy with the flowers and got too passionate and now five years later I had to give them away😫😫but they are doing great they are in the perfect setup now. I don’t like coconut husk it was a disaster for me. Clay pots and moss or bark are definitely the best but it took me couple of years to realize it🤣🤣
thanks for this article I have 2 vandas both are Areides hybrids, alil larger than the Falcata vandas. I’ve had the same issues too, choosing the right media. Im in a dry climate high desert Northen Nevada and always have the temperature hovering year long around 70. I been using Gubler’s bark mix for phals and so far its been okay. I watering is a 10 min soak every 3 days. I was originally planing to alternate with the wicking of spagnum moss and layer with coarse bark but thought medium bark could a good in between.
I have five Vanda’s in my collection and I’m located in Maryland. Two of the large vanda’s are growing in terracotta pots with chunky lump coal and the smaller three are potted up like phal’s in terracotta pots. I grow them outside in the summer and inside in the winter. So far I’ve had great success with this method. I tend to not water them most of the time because of a busy schedule. In the winter I only water once a week and few times a week during summer. Other then that they aren’t that fussy.
I love large Vandas, but I am an indoor grower, just like you, and my house is very hot and dry in summer, and cold and dry in winter. I have tried many different setups: bare root, in moss, in bark, in Leca…. In the end they all died. Every. Single. One. The roots just got too dry if bare rooted, even when watering every day. But they rot if potted into any kind of media. I am curious about the moss setup you use. Is the moss very loose or packed up tight? How do you water? Do you soak the moss really wet, or just sprinkle it to make it moist? Do you use tap water or RO water? Do you flush? Thanks of any help you may kindly give me in keeping Vandas alive. I really enjoy your articles.