This video demonstrates the construction of an easy retractable hoop house, which is affordable, durable, and easy to build. Instead of using lift-up covers, this hoop house can be customized to fit the shape of the Birdies raised garden bed. The cover anchors underneath the soil inside, providing a secure and cost-effective greenhouse option. The hoop house can withstand winds exceeding 75 mph and is easy to assemble. The greenhouse is about 12 feet wide by 48 feet long and is an economical and quick alternative to traditional greenhouses. The process involves measuring and cutting the frame, creating the hoop supports, forming the hoops, attaching them to the frame, and connecting them. The hoop house is framed with schedule 40 PVC pipe, with 3/4-inch-diameter rails and 1/2-inch-diameter hoops. The video provides a step-by-step guide on how to build a hoop house greenhouse, making it a practical and cost-effective option for those looking to grow fresh vegetables year-round.
📹 The Best Easy RETRACTABLE HOOP HOUSE On The Internet
This video will show you how to build the best easy retractable hoop house on the internet! This retractable hoophouse design is …
Will a greenhouse stay warm in winter?
A greenhouse is a structure that uses natural solar heating, thermal mass, and insulation to provide warmth to plants. Sunlight passes through the greenhouse, warming the interior and absorbing by plants and soil. Thermal mass elements like concrete floors, bricks, or barrels filled with water absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night, stabilizing temperature fluctuations. Proper insulation is crucial for retaining heat, with greenhouse walls and roofs designed to minimize heat loss. Double-glazed windows, multiple layers of plastic film, bubble wrap, or thermal curtains can also be used to trap heat during cold nights.
What type of PVC to use for hoop house?
The design uses 1-1/2-inch diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe for hoops and 2-inch diameter PVC for ground pipes. The longer the hoop pipes, the wider and taller the hoop house will be. If PVC is not suitable, galvanized steel pipe made for chain-link fence installations can be used as excellent supports. Although more challenging and expensive, steel pipe provides a stronger structure for extreme wind and snow loads.
How do you keep a hoop house warm?
The large heater at the rear of the hoop house is subject to daily inspection throughout the winter period. This is done in order to guarantee that the temperature remains at a level that is conducive to plant growth. Temperatures that are either excessively high or low can have a detrimental effect on the plants, causing them to either freeze or rot.
How thick should hoop house plastic be?
The thickness of greenhouse plastic ranges from 4 to 8 mils, with a thickness of 3-4 mils being suitable for short-term structures and a thickness of 8-12 mils being optimal for achieving maximum durability. A thickness of 6 mil is recommended for full-season greenhouses in moderate climates, while 8-12 mils offer insulation and durability in cold climates and commercial operations. Correct installation and the provision of ultraviolet (UV) protection are essential for ensuring the longevity of the material.
What size PVC to use for hoop house?
The raised beds are made of 1x12s and supported by 2×4 sections due to various constraints. The hoophouses are made of 1/2-inch PVC pipe in 10-foot lengths, with clips and pipe sized to suit each other. The hoops are held on with simple brackets, which can be found at hardware stores for 29 cents each.
The plastic is a clear-ish plastic dropcloth or tarp from local hardware stores, such as Ace or any store that remembers when they need another one. The plastic is held on the hoops by hoophouse clips, which can be obtained from various sources. A pro tip is to place one of the plastic clips between the two hoop-holding brackets, providing extra security, especially in windy weather.
On non-raised beds, larger diameter PVC is cut into 12-16 inch sections and driven into the ground until about 3-6 inches are sticking out. The 1/2 inch pipe is then inserted into each section and bent over into the other side. The hoops, plastic, and clips are the same as above.
To make the poly plastic last longer, reduce abrasion between the poly and the hoop with adhesive Felt Cladding Tape. If it’s windy, rocks on either end of the tarp may be needed to secure it. Peaceful Valley also suggests Cinch Strap and boards to hold down the poly in windy weather.
Is a hoop house as good as a greenhouse?
A hoop house, also known as a crop or high tunnel, is a warm, unheated, and less durable alternative to a greenhouse in northern Nevada. It allows plants to control their growing environment and is less expensive. To set up a hoop house, it’s important to choose a location that is flat, sunny, with good drainage and soil. A nearby water source and close source of electricity are also essential. In-ground growers should amend the soil before building.
What is the best plastic for a greenhouse hoop?
Polyethylene (PE) is a widely used greenhouse plastic due to its competitive price and excellent mechanical properties. It is easily incorporated with additives to improve its characteristics. PE is classified based on density, with low-density being the most common. Medium-density plastic is used in small tunnels and mulch, while high-density plastic is used for pipes, bottles, caps, containers, irrigation, and drainage parts. Low-density polyethylene is the most commonly used in agriculture, offering four-year durability and resistance to sulphur. It can be yellow or colorless.
How long do hoop greenhouses last?
Hoop houses are budget-friendly greenhouses that offer numerous benefits, including cost-effectiveness and easy maintenance. The only ongoing expense is replacing the poly film, which can last beyond the 4-year warranty if well-maintained. Greenhouses require annual power, infrastructure taxes, and maintenance, with panels expiring around 5-8 years into use. However, if the intended crops will easily cover the cost, the investment might be justified for the operation. Overall, hoop houses offer a more cost-effective solution for greenhouse operations.
What material is used for hoop houses?
The author’s outdoor grounds crew has been engaged in the relocation of a modest hoop house from a proximate location in the vicinity of their principal greenhouse to another in the immediate proximity of their boxwood nursery. The author’s outdoor grounds crew has constructed four hoop houses, utilizing steel frames and polyethylene panels. The relocation was a substantial undertaking, comprising a multitude of intricate steps. Nevertheless, the author is confident that the hoop house will be put to good use and held in high regard.
Where should you not put a greenhouse?
Place a greenhouse under tall trees to reduce sunlight and prevent glass damage. High walls, hedges, and trees can serve as windbreaks, providing shelter without blocking light. These barriers keep plants warm and prevent wind damage during storms. However, it’s important to ensure the trees are a suitable distance to provide shelter without blocking light. Providing ample room for cleaning and maintenance is crucial for maintaining a healthy greenhouse environment.
How much does it cost to build a hoop greenhouse?
Before building a high tunnel hoop house, consider factors such as light penetration, load limitations, and the site’s location. These structures are affordable and easy to adapt to various land units, making them suitable for gardeners and farmers. Light penetration is crucial for plant growth, and grow lights require an electrical source. In areas with wind and snow, consider load limitations. The height of the hoop house can be adjusted by lengthening rib pipes for comfortable indoor use.
Choose a moderately level site with good drainage and soil, and choose an open area where trees and obstacles won’t affect sun penetration or create shadows. Soil fill can be used to create a pad for construction.
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If you found this article helpful, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for perusal 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Why I’m Converting My Raised Bed To A Hoop House 0:57 Materials List To Build A Retractable Hoophouse 1:20 Installing PVC Support Hoops For The End Walls 4:46 Attaching Agricultural Fabric To The End Walls 6:35 Building The Main PVC Support Hoops 9:12 Building The Center PVC Support Hoop 10:23 Installing The Purlins (Cross Supports) 14:25 Building The Retraction Mechanisms 15:49 Installing The Greenhouse Cover 18:20 Final Hoop House Garden Results And Demonstration 20:17 Customize This DIY Hoop House For Your Garden 21:12 Adventures With Dale
I see this article was post a year ago. How is it holding up? Love the design. Thinking about doing this, but using metal conduit. Where I live, it’s cheaper to use metal, than that pvc… don’t understand why. I was thinking about doing it hinged, but then I ran across your article, talk about instant change of plans! Good job on the article.
This is a great design I might try for my winter raised garden bed down here in NE Texas but with a plastic sheeting to protect when we get into the mid and lower 20s. I’ll see how to adapt this to my bed design. The 3 lateral struts you have a great for adding stability and structure to the whole thing. I like the clamping of the larger pvc tubing over the smaller to keep the sheeting in place. Great idea!
Dude! What a great invention! Plus I’m liking the versatility of the agricultural cloth vs the plastic. I built my first raised bed couple years ago, 3’x3’x12′. Before I filled the box with soil, I cut 8 pc of 2″ conduit (f/ReStore) 3 feet long each. I stood them up inside the box, one per corner + 2 spaced evenly along the length, both sides, where my vertical supports were (walls are made of corrugated metal, supported by 2x4s). I back-filled the soil against them. The walls of my box + the soil hold them in place, so no need for straps or screws, I hope. Piggy-backing on your design, I will insert 1/2″ conduit into my vertical 2″ pieces, then proceed w/your slide-n-glide idea. I had assumed I was gonna be constantly removing and re-installing the cloth. The ends of the side-to-side bent 1/2″ conduit won’t be permanently attached to the raised bed box. That may be a bad thing or maybe it’ll prove to have some advantage?? I’ll make those 1/2″ curvy pieces extra long so I can stick each end all the way to the interior bottom of each vertical 3’x2″ piece, thus distributing the stress down the whole depth of the box. Really appreciate your website. This old lady is learning a lot from you, young man. Thx to you, I’m gonna try garlic this winter and cukes and determinate tomatoes next year.🤞
Another very practical and useful system for almost year-round gardening. BTW, not sure if you used galvanized clamps and screws, if not you could have used decking screws which are cheaper and long-lasting without rusting out in a year’s time. You were not kidding when you mentioned the viewership just falls off the cliff off the growing season. Anyway, I really enjoy and have learnt from your content. Rama, NC
I live in Florida. I love their versatility of your ingenious design. Not sure I need the retractable but since I plant at the beginning of January on N. Hutchinson Island, after about the 2nd or third week we almost never have thirties and forties by the end of January,. However, I grow my tomatoes (mostly cherry types, 6-7ft tall (tall and narrow has really been the very best way to go here with terrific yields, I wonder whether a higher hoop house will work. I plan on 3-4ft wide by 10-12 ft long raised beds. Because I am old my raised bed is going to be at least a foot high. I am going to build new beds this fall. Look forward to hearing from you. Excellent presentation.
Dale. Very interesting design. Kudos! I’m researching this and similar designs because I have high temps, 90-100 degrees for 3-4 months almost every day in summer. So I think the shade cloth will help protect from sunburn, and hopefully allow enough air flow to keep it from overheating. My other concern is the critters that I need to keep out: gophers, squirrels, rabbits, deer, rats or mice. So I’m wondering if the retractable method is better for sealing the raised bed from critters than the hinged hoop top is. What do you think? Geo
I’m subscribing to your website… So I like this design a lot, I’m thinking about making it… So I had a thought about the design what do you think if I also put the couplers on the bottom so when the fabric is in the lowered position it stays latched down… I’m just getting started with raised beds and growing food in general, in fact last week… I need the hoops to keep the birds and critters from chomping down on my seedlings, which I am seeing starting to sprout! So exciting!!! For summer would you recommend a bird netting (I have this deer netting that I had kicking around the house for a different project… Any Advice?
Thanks for the inspiration. However I don’t think I’ll use the sliding mechanism. I’ll use a flap instead that you lift over the top and rest it on the other side when you want access. It will involve double hoops on either end like in your design because one of the ends will need to remain undisturbed and permanent but the second hoop will allow part of one side to be detached for a flap. It will involve a slat of wood the length of the structure and 16 inches down from the top. This will be a permanent attachment probably screwed into place. The plastic or fabric will be attached to this using a second slat on top of the first slat to trap the material. A further heavier slat will be attached to the bottom of the material and will hang down like a taught curtain. This can then be lifted over the top when access is needed and lowered for closing. It can be weighed down to stop the material from lifting in strong wind. The sides of the detachable flap can be secured to both sides of the hoops by the clips you suggest using, they just need to be removed for the flap to lift over. I have been worried about building a hinged hoop house for the reasons you mention because it seems clumsy to operate and your sliding mechanism solves that to a degree but a weighted flap would be even better, just as quick to use too. I will be using cups instead of saddles to attach the hoops to the frame like you demonstrated in constructing your hinged version. We don’t have access to these cups readily in the UK so mine will be made up using copper pipe with soldered stop ends and I can make the cups a bit deeper than the plastic ones.
A PVC pipe the length of your bed is a lot less effort. You just roll the side up and prop it on two fence posts like a spit. It allows you to open the entire thing up, as well as store it on a roll in the fall. It also makes it super easy to swap between row cover, netting and shade cloth and plastic. Just swap the pre rolled pipe.
This idea is much simpler than the hinged hoop house, both in instruction and construction. One question: You said the agricultural fabric will protect the plants beneath from frost “until it gets very cold.” What’s the temperature at which it will no longer protect from damage and additional protection will be required? Another question: Who knew Dale had such a high-pitched voice?! 🙂
I am zone 9B – bay area, ca with year round temperate weather. But the spring months ( feb to apr ) have cold nights and summer months hot days. Will I be better off using agricultural cloth or 6-mil plastic cover for my 15’x15′ arched pvc hoop house ? My intuition says agri cloth as shown in this article, but I am not sure if it can help keep temp warmer in spring cold nights . Also, will it allow enough light to let veg plants grow well all round the year ? Will appreciate your guidance.
Instead of the rigid conduit clamps that don’t quite fit, get a roll of galvanized pipe hanger “tape”. You can cut it to fit, and it’s extremely versatile. We’ve used it in many, many spots where something flexible was needed to conform to what we were trying to secure while building out a cattle panel hoop chicken run.
I built myself my own based off of your example and everything worked great until the .9oz fabric started ripping in multiple places all at once after about a month. Did you end up having this issue or am I doing something wrong? I didn’t clamp it super tight, just taut, in order to keep it’s shape. Anybody else come up with this problem. Thinking on using a thicker fabric.
Hmmm. Have used pvc h20 pipe for 20 yr in zone 4 —- don’t think the u.v. Is weakening the pipes, as if it fails it shatters at the lower ends — at the bend. This area is almost alway covered in summer. I tend to blame the cold? Anyone know which less likely to shatter after @ 15 yrs in extreme cold? Some are a full 20 years, which shows the dim sun we have😂 I would prefer the grey electrical conduit as less garish…
next project-retractable covering for Birdies raised beds using no wood or a hinged cover. Circo Innovations has hinges especially for PVC construction. I’m stuck on how to build the rail outside of the bed that the hood would “hinge” to. I would like it to come down over the edge of the bed to keep bugs out so I would need a “stop” for the frame to rest on when closed. As I am needing to eliminate wood from the project drilling clamps onto anything is not an option. Thanks to all for any suggestions.
Pretty good, but I’d hem the bottom edge of the sides and slide some kind of semi-heavy pole into it and then it could be lifted up in one action and it would also hold the fabric steady. When the wind catches under the edges of that fabric it can really tear it. It’s strong, but not that strong… very clever .. !