Effective temperature management in a greenhouse is crucial for various aspects of plant growth, including seed germination, photosynthesis, root development, flowering and fruit set, and energy conservation. Temperature plays a significant role in maintaining the right conditions for different plants to thrive. Plants have an optimal temperature range for growth, which allows them to perform photosynthesis efficiently and initiate leaf development. However, extreme temperatures can affect plant growth, with extreme cold affecting pollen viability, fertilization, and grain or fruit formation.
Plants grow best when daytime temperatures are about 10 to 15 degrees higher than nighttime temperatures. Under these conditions, plants photosynthesize (build up) and respire (break down) during optimum daytime temperatures and then curtail respiration at night. The ideal temperature range is 25°C-30°C, with nighttime temperatures around 20°C.
High temperatures during the reproductive stage can affect pollen viability, fertilization, and grain or fruit formation. Each plant species has a suitable temperature range, with higher temperatures generally promoting shoot growth, including leaf growth. Light and temperature work together to affect plant growth, and understanding this relationship may help scientists develop more resilient plants to withstand climate change.
High temperatures affect plant growth in numerous ways, such as the effects of heat on photosynthesis, which converts light into energy. An early morning DIF or DROP, which lowers the greenhouse temperature before sunrise, can help control plant growth and save on energy costs. Lower nighttime temperatures help plants recover from moisture loss, intensify flower color, and prolong flower life.
In conclusion, understanding the role of temperature in plant growth is essential for greenhouse gardening. Proper temperature management is crucial for ensuring optimal growth and reducing energy costs.
📹 How to Maximize Plant Growth By Monitoring Temperature
I really feel if you want to maximize your vegetable plant growth you need to monitor and control the temperature your plants are …
At what temperature do plants grow fastest?
Most plants can tolerate normal temperature fluctuations, with foliage plants growing best between 70-80 degrees F. during the day and 60-68 degrees F. at night. Flowering plants prefer the same daytime temperature range but grow best when nighttime temperatures range from 55-60 degrees F. Lower nighttime temperatures help plants recover from moisture loss, intensify flower color, and prolong flower life.
Excessive low or high temperatures may cause plant stress, inhibit growth, or promote spindly appearance and foliage damage. Cool nighttime temperatures are more desirable for plant growth than high temperatures. A good rule of thumb is to keep nighttime temperatures 10-15 degrees lower than daytime temperatures.
Atmospheric humidity, expressed as the percentage of moisture to air, is important for plants in modifying moisture loss and temperatures. To increase relative humidity around plants, use a humidifier attached to heating or ventilating systems or place gravel trays under pots or containers. Group plants close together and apply mist early in the day to allow leaves to dry before cooler nighttime temperatures.
Is heat necessary for plant growth?
Plants require thermal energy, specifically heat and sunlight, for photosynthesis, a process that produces glucose, a sugary food that fuels their growth. This process involves absorbing the sun’s energy through leaves, combining it with water and carbon dioxide, and producing oxygen. Farmers have adapted their crops to the heat and sunlight available in their regions, and today’s farmers do the same. Researchers use a measure of accumulated heat called a growing degree day (GDD) to estimate the amount of heat plants may use for photosynthesis. The equation for daily GDD for maize is 10°C (~50ºF), where T(MAX) is the maximum daily temperature, T(MIN) is the minimum daily temperature, and T_(BASE) is the temperature below which plant growth ceases.
What happens to plants when the temperature rises?
The ideal temperature for plants is 72-76°F during the day, with nighttime temperatures dropping to 5-10°F. Over 15 degrees, condensation may cause humidity and mold issues. Daytime temperatures above 85°F and below 55°F slow or stop plant growth.
Too much heat impacts plants by causing rapid respiration, where plants take in oxygen, break down molecules to release energy, and release carbon dioxide. This results in less carbon dioxide being taken up for photosynthesis, limiting the plant’s ability to complete the dark reaction (Calvin cycle). This results in smaller fruits.
Water use is directly impacted by temperature. As temperatures rise, plants transpire more, releasing water to cool themselves and regulate their internal temperature. This process is regulated by specialized plant organs called stomata, which can open or close, limiting the amount of water vapor and gases that can escape. Transpiration rate is also dependent on factors such as light, atmospheric carbon dioxide, humidity, and plant species.
Why do plants grow faster with heat?
Global temperatures are projected to rise by 2. 7°F by 2050, making plants sensitive to these changes. Plants can’t regulate their own temperatures, so they grow faster at higher temperatures, creating long roots to absorb more water and nutrients. This response may be beneficial in the short term but may be unsustainable and potentially harmful for humans in the long term. Researchers at the Salk Institute found that plants’ rapid root growth reduces their levels of nitrogen and phosphorus, making them less nutritious when consumed. Soil with low nutrient levels leads to slower root growth and inadequate response to higher temperatures.
Why is temperature control needed?
Temperature control is crucial in preventing spoilage and illness caused by spoilage of food. Heat kills bacteria, while cold temperatures slow down their growth. The Danger Zone, a temperature range from 20-45°C (68-113°F), is where bacteria grow and multiply the fastest. Bacteria can survive between 5-65°C (41-149°F), but most common food-related bacteria thrive in this zone. Food manufacturers and preparation professionals must use approved methods to chill, heat, and store foods to keep them out of the danger zone. This article explores temperature control techniques to ensure food is safe to consume and is kept out of the danger zone as much as possible.
How do very high temperatures reduce the growth of plants?
Plants respond to high temperatures differently. As temperatures rise, their growth rate slows due to reduced photosynthesis and respiration rates, which deplete their food reserves. If extreme heat persists for weeks, plants can die from depletion. High temperatures can also cause severe water loss, known as desiccation, when transpiration exceeds root moisture absorption. Evaporation from soil further reduces water availability. As leaf water content decreases, leaves wilt, slowing water loss but increasing leaf temperatures due to reduced evaporative cooling.
If high temperatures persist, this cycle can worsen, potentially causing the death of a portion or all of the leaf. To protect your lawn, garden, and landscape during extreme heat, change watering practices by changing watering practices through transpiration and evaporation from the soil surface.
How do plants respond to an increase in temperature?
Temperature directly impacts yield potential in plants, as enzymes control chemical reactions. Rates of these reactions increase with temperature, with plant growth and weight gain being greater at 80 F than at 50 F. The three-dimensional shapes of plant enzymes can warp or change at high temperatures. An example of how temperature affects protein is the frying of an egg, where heat causes the protein to change shape and solidify. Agronomists consider 86 F the optimal temperature for corn and soybean growth, as temperatures above 86 F slow important reactions, reducing yield potential.
How does temperature control work?
A Temperature Controller is a device used to control a heater or other equipment by comparing a sensor signal with a set point and performing calculations based on the deviation between those values. It can handle other sensor signals, such as humidity, pressure, and flow rate, and is specifically called a Digital Controller. Temperature controllers control temperature to ensure the process value is the same as the set point, but the response varies depending on the controlled object and the controller’s control method. Responses can be quick, slow, or a combination of both, depending on the specific needs of the controlled object. The goal is to achieve the set point without overshooting.
What is temperature control in plants?
Plants display endothermy, and a few are capable of thermoregulation, sensing external temperature changes and regulating heat production at the cellular level to maintain tissue temperature within a narrow range. Endothermic heating of floral tissues and thermoregulation occur in various plant species, but the mechanisms by which flowers heat are only beginning to be understood. A recent study demonstrated that the alternative pathway of respiration, where alternative oxidase (AOX) acts as terminal electron acceptor, is responsible for heat generation in the sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), a thermoregulating species.
AOX-mediated heat production in this species is regulated at both gene expression and post-translationally. AOX has also been implicated in heat production in other thermogenic species. The study discusses the central role of AOX in heat production and how post-translational mechanisms may provide the fine control necessary for thermoregulation.
How does the temperature affect plant growth?
Plants regulate their growth based on their environmental conditions, with temperature being a critical factor. Temperatures above the optimal range generally promote shoot growth, including leaf expansion and stem elongation and thickening. However, temperatures above the optimal range suppress growth. The difference in temperature between day and night can also affect plant growth. In ornamental horticulture, the difference between day and night temperature (DT) is controlled through the difference between DT and NT (DIF), which is defined as DT–NT.
Phytohormones, such as Gibberellin (GA) and Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA), play a key role in regulating plant growth in response to temperature. In Arabidopsis thaliana, higher temperatures promote hypocotyl elongation mediated by phytochrome-interacting factor 4 (PIF4)-dependent auxin biosynthesis. PIF4 function is regulated by GA via DELLA proteins, which are key negative regulators of GA signaling.
Studies have found that stem elongation under different DIF treatments is accompanied by changes in GA content in Campanula isophylla and Pisum sativum. In P. sativum, inhibition of stem elongation under negative DIF was weaker in GA-related mutants than in the wild type. In A. thaliana, non-bioactive GA 29 content was lower under a negative DIF treatment than that under a positive DIF treatment, while IAA concentration was higher under a positive DIF treatment.
These studies suggest the involvement of these hormones in the effect of DIF on stem elongation. However, the expression of these hormones and their genes has not been investigated in detail. Temperature affects stem elongation and stem thickness, but the effect of DIF on vascular development has not been properly characterized to date.
How do plants sense temperature?
The study demonstrates that the ELF3 protein’s phase change behavior, which is active at low temperatures and inactive at high temperatures, regulates the plant’s temperature response.
📹 Best Grow Room Conditions to maximise growth and yield | Light (PAR), Temperature, Humidity and Air
Bulk orders: Contact us at [email protected] for a quotation Maximise your growth rate and yield by optimising your grow room …
you are right man when I first started I worried about lighting and soil but temperature is as important as lighting because my lettuce is bitter as hell because the temp is above 70. For the biggest yield and best nutrients the plant can offer everything has to be in its favor, but once you get the hang of things it’s easier
I got one from walmart. I have to use it up here in NY. It has saved my butt more than I can say. I once had it to 100 in the greenhouse because we were gone I would have lost plants if it wasnt for the fact that I read it when I got home and ran over and opened up the window. It was 12 last night, we are gettin unseasonably cold weather here. it is nice to tell the temp in my bedroom instead of having to get up in the middle of the night and go check.
Now we can find some good sensors that will feed into a computer were you can track it and configure it to roll out shade, or roll up the sides of the plastic on a greenhouse, or turn sprinklers on etc to maintain temp and humidity that would be awesome. I love gardening but i don’t like feeling tied down.
I’ve been growing for some years but I find myself straying from the basics sometimes and articles like this really help me just go back to how I usually do things I find your articles really useful I also would like to mention the senelux se 4000 I bought it but I had it boxed away but for a budget price light I found it amazing compared to the hps lights I used to use I’ve only used it during veg but the difference is amazing thicker stems and much bushier than I usually get from HP’s also the nodes are much closer together because of the climate I’m in I do used HP’s during flower with led just to help increase the temperature because I find the heater uses almost as much electric. Thanks 👍
Hey Shane Your tip about covering the soil, I mulch with bark chips between veg and flower and find works really well. I do everything to reduce evaporation, at this point because it’s no longer helpful. I also put my fabric pots in buckets, which reduces evaporation and allows me to switch to watering from the bottom up which also helps. Bluetooth hygrometer/thermometers of amazon helped me get to grips with this. Being able to see your readings as chart is so helpful. They’d be worthy of a article just so more people started using them. Thanks again, I mine your website & DrMJ for info and always find the light. C-weed
One thing I’d add, at lower humidity the plants will take up (& transpire) more water, if you are fertigating (adding nutes with the waterings) then the plants are also uptaking more nutrients as they cycle though the water & you may need to reduce feeding strength to avoid nutrient burn when you are growing at reduced humidity (RH below ~ 50% )
I use to grow HPS only, no more however. I picked up this light and it is everything it says it is and more! My yeilds are bigger, buds are very tight, and trichromes look like frosting on the buds.. I purchased the timer as well, it all works like a charm. I use full power for 3 hours, them drop to 75% for 10 hours, then 50% for 3, them the light shuts of them I switch to my moonlight led for 8 hours… I have never seen my plants grow this fast, and this healthy.. Truly one amazing LED..
Great article! One question and/or comment. I read years ago, and I got incredible results by following what I read, that keeping the grow room temperature as low as 68° is the best way to keep all of the extremely volatile terpenes accumulating on the buds and not taking flight. My hydroponic plants didn’t smell much below 70 ° but the smell was impossible to contain at 75°, as quality decreased. I think a lot of commercial weed is grown for maximum yield and not for maximum terpene content.
Very good summary, and VPD is key to an optimum yield. As Shane says, the taller the plants the more humidity you’ll need and therefore the more fans you’ll have to put in the grow room as ventilation is paramount to avoid bud rot. Icmag forum has a very good thread by a very experienced grower named DJM if you are curious about that VPD and high humidity management.
Amazing article as always Shane! Only question I have is, you listed 40-55% as being the optimal RH during veg. in your graph. But according to your VPD chart that’s way out of line. It should be 70-80% RH during veg. Other than that, all values, ranges and talking points I double checked and were spot on! 🙂
Im going to need a bigger room, ive got 4 plants and ive never had much luck but this year after perusal some vids,(and especially after lowering my ph, adding coco coir to soil and watering LESS ive got some monsters, i also made the mistake of putting seedlings into tiny pots till they took off but they never took off in tiny pots, once i put them into their final container they went crazy.
LEDs are becoming so efficient. I had my biggest yield to date useing LEDs. I used the SP3000 in a 3×5 with 3 photos and hit 2.15 GPW. 645 grams dry. Only useing 300 watts. Thats around 20 watts per square foot. Bout to harvest the 4×4 useing the FC4800 and looks to be its gonna be about the same GPW. 30 watts per square foot. Crazy efficient thst I vegged the entire 4×4 at 50% 240 watts. Bumped it to 75% at flip. Week 3 90% and week 5 100%. For environmental conditions. I use a fan in the window to bring in fresh air from outside into the lung room. The exhaust fan brings in fresh air through bottom vents with a passive system. Chasing VPD is absolutely not necessary. Shane is spot on.
This is what has driven me crazy, at 86f vpd chart says it should be about 70% humidity but I’ve read keep humidity during veg should be between 45 to 55%, your graph says 50% humidity during veg. Many other sites say keep humidity between 45 to 55% humidity during veg but that corresponds to a room temp of 68F. on a vpd chart. I run my tent at 78F and it stays on it’s own around 55 to 60H.
Hi, names Austin, I’m looking at my plants closely everyday after work and I’ve pulled out 4 plants today and two a couple days ago because I spotted herme and male parts. I think that I might need a second opinion of these very early signs during week 2 of pre flower. From seed to current day they are 6 weeks and on 12/12 with no light leaks. I just put 2 into foam board under the pots/trays to avoid the cold from coming up into the pots. I know I’m jumping all over with this comment but I would love any info on the ventilation as well. Right now I have a 4x4x8 foot tent in flower and I have one exhaust blower directing the air outside and only have the bottom vent strip open. The humidity has been fluctuating from 50-60 % air temp is between 70-85… thanks for reading my message
If you wrote “A Guide To Growlights For Dummies” I would certainly buy it. When you explain all this it starts making sense but for those new to growing with grow lights, this type of information may as well be Greek. My goal is to grow my food in the winter in my basement so that I don’t have to heat a greenhouse or worry about snow load. Much gratitude for your advice and education with respect for your ability to teach others and your willingness to share what you know. I see your lights are on sale and am working on a budget as it seems like I will need quite a few to grow enough for two people assuming that if one can grow a plant to the flowering stage using LEDs, I could potentially grow vegetables or at least root vegetables this way. Still doing the math.
I’d think that Sativa strains would like more humidity since they come from closer to the equator while Indicas can tolerate dry air much better since they come from a drier climate to begin with. I have no scientific basis for this, just kinda what makes sense in my head. I like growing Afghani based strains and have never even bothered to increase the RH. It usually stays in the 50-60% range in my grow room.
Thanks Shane. It seems the LEDs are moving in the desired direction, but gas guzzler accessories when electricity prices will double in the next 12 months may be an unaffordable luxury to the personal grower who has to suck it up. Seeds that companies claim are for cold and very cold climates, may grow faster than a warm climate plant in winter when temps are well outside the range you quoted. In northern Europe except periods in summer, humidity is easily controlled by leaving the tent opening either a lot or just enough to let fresh air in. If there is moisture of any kind on the inside of the tent, then it’s too humid and a wider opening is required. It may be the case that bud rot is more common on photo periods than autos. it is likely that not only are the light off for 12 hours, but many will also reduce fan use, and autos run 24/7 and move through their cycle rapidly, which appears to minimise bud rot.
you should do a article of a fully controlled grow compared to a non controlled grow to see how much extra you really get and is it worth the extra cost, i am guessing its not worth the cost. and if you use the same strains and the same lighting in both grows im guessing you will not get more than a couple ounces extra unless your using CO2 then you might get around 4 oz’s is my guess. todays tip free cloning jel, buy an aloe plant and use the jell in the leaves as cloning jell and you will never lose a clone again. every time you need jell just cut off a little part of a leaf and it will heal itself. then use the jell in the cut portion. roll your stalk in it put into machine. within 5 days they will be ready for dirt sometimes 3 days.
O segredo é a manipulação adequada do fotoperíodo. Induzindo um dia com mais de 24 horas na floração, assim gera uma eficácia de mais 35 a 40% na produção do grow. Pode confiar! Trata-se do dia de 33 horas e 36 minutos. A quantidade de horas de luz tem que ser de 21h36m por dia, com 12 horas de escuro, totalizando as 33h36m. Isso faz com que em uma semana normal de 7 dias, no grow se passem só 5 dias. As plantas levarão mais tempo para ficarem prontas, pois 60 dias de floração continuam sendo 60 dias, só que agora com 33h36m e não 24h. Também há um pouco a mais de consumo de luz elétrica, porém o ganho de produção compensa.
Thank you for this excellent article. I’m trying to “dial in” my grow room and your info is very helpful. What sources of info are you using to make your recommendations? also, it seems you assume air movement (fans) but only discuss peripherally. Should air movement be considered one of the key environmental factors (for indoor grow)?
So with the lights, which is more important, the DLI or the PPF? I am running an 18/6 and am getting 40.6 DLI with 627 PPF. If I increase it to 800 PPF I have too hot of of environment and my DLI is too high. Thanks for the article. You really answered all of the questions I have been researching the answers to over the last 4 days in one article. I made sure to hit that subscribe button.
My temps are around 20-24 deg C on average. They get down to 17-18 deg C at night, and, less often, up to 29-33 deg C on a hot day (in southern hemisphere, now moving into summer). If I were to do something to change the temperature, I wonder if I would benefit more from heating to increase the minimum temps, or from cooling to decrease the maximum temps? Maybe its not worth either?
I keep hearing watts for LEDs, but are you talking equivalent, or actual wattage? I’m growing cannabis in a 4×3 tent. I wanted to make a diy light like you made. I want to have average 800 par like you were suggesting using LED bulbs. What bulbs should I use for veg and flower? I’m having a hard time producing dense buds. Thanks for all your help in the past!
Hello, the greatest respect to migro. I was wondering if you could take the time to help me. I’ve got a problem. I’m using the mars hydro tsl-2000 And I’ve got a room temperature of roughly 22 degrees celcius. I’ve used my infrared thermometer and got a leaf surface reading of just under sixteen degrees in my 2 x 4 grow tent after having the flap closed for half and hour. My tomato plants are about a foot high and previously I burnt most of the leaves then set the light to minimum to hope they recover. I’ve read that most plants require a leaf surface temperature of fifteen to thirty degrees. Do you think they will be right with my light set on fifty percent to achieve this LST. The light is twenty five inches above the plants and I can’t find any information on the range for LST on tomato plants. Cheers, I really appreciate your website and respect all the work you do.
Where i live, there are some “typical, annual irregularities” 🙂 in weather patterns: a pretty oppressive high temp/humidity spell around late August, despite a lower rising sun; a brief cooler snap that precedes that late summer heat i mentioned; an early Fall high temp period that follows the first extended period of cooler Fall temps; a couple days of below avg Fall temps later, etc. I don’t know that that’s the rough pattern in the Tropics or Afghanistan, but i would think there are similar predictable fluctuations in any region. Have you ever considered what effects these things have? Have you ever replicated those conditions inside and compared results to a clone from the same mother grown under uniform conditions? I wonder if little bursts of stress have positive results. Thank you for the good information!
I need the truth bcuz I’m spending on things I never knew I need on top of buying a Pot for Pot!! The Calmag was the first thing I bought, then I got the ph kit, 3/1 tester, humidity monitor, a very expensive light that has to be returned before I have my ceiling down on my head that’s how heavy and it gets like super high heat, so I’d love to know what light to get and now he said I need a grow room…I need help !! Lol !!
Thanx for the incredible articles and info on grow lights . Its been incredibly helpful . Two questions, will you ever review the bar 2400 from sunraise ? I know you were not impressed by their light in one of your articles . Anyway thank you in advance . And for the second question can my humidity be too low ? Around 48-57 ? Thanks for doing all this even if you dont get back go me 🤷♂️
If you have issues with heat an in-line extraction fan works as well. They cycle a lot of air quick and as he said, you can connect this stuff to a controller. I reduced temps from mid 80’s to 77 F, with light’s on. I mean basically you have to push or pull fresh air into your grow space. Preferably both. But pulling air through an extraction fan is far more efficient for a simi-closed grow space. You just need an inlet vent for fresh air to enter and the extraction fan will do the rest. These fans often come in kits and are used with a carbon filter that has additional benefits. They sell a quiet one that comes with controller built in. I’m not promoting anyone but look at reviews and ratings before you buy. This was the fix for my heat issues without having to go to A/C. Hope this helps someone. I must add that I did have to get a higher output humidifier with it’s own controller. But my walk in closet is running efficient AF…
Amazing article! I was wondering, in regard to Co2, I plan to keep a closed sealed room with nothing on assuming RH and temps are where they need to be, is it ok to exhaust the room with my inline fan when the lights are off only, since Co2 isn’t necessary at that time? And then shut the inline fan off when lights are on thus trapping the Co2 in the room.
Increase your CO2 levels by adding sugar water and leftover marijuana leaves boil it and then put some yeast in there in a 5 gallon Brew bucket when it’s done brewing don’t distill it it will probably be the best moonshine you have never had and that’s something you shouldn’t do 😉 nudge nudge don’t do it because you’ll have too much fun and everybody will love your moonshine, because marijuana moonshine is the best
I got a couple of seeds off my son as a sort of gag birthday gift, I planted 2 of the 3 and they grew, in pots in my garden till it started to get cold, we bought a tent, lights that were recommended by a friend who used to grow and have a small fan circulating the air but from there I have no idea what I’m doing, the plant has flowers on it but I don’t know when it’s best to cut or anything, any simple advice would be great, I have fibromyalgia so a plant that I can use would be a godsend
what the hell am i supposed to do about my set up. i have a 2000w led in a 4x4x5.5, and i dont have enough room to raise the light any further. its hindering the flowering process of my two plants, this plant i have under a 600w is doing better than the two in the tent. damn what a struggle. next time im going to tie them down way earlier than i did this time.
Just a tip for all you first time/novice growers, one of the main problems I had was ph ing water mixing nutrients, The easiest way around this is to fertilize the soil with fully organic fert, not the watering feed. So if you start with an average compost from the garden centre and use blood bone and fish, with chicken manure pellets, and Westlands seaweed, all can be bought at the local garden centre. When you transfer the seedlings/cuttings, just put out a small shake of the above mentioned, on the surface, then just water throughout the whe cycle, you can’t overfeed the plant right to the end, there is no need to flush, and the buds taste sweet, if you have ascess to rainwater all the better, but let tap water stand for 24 hours to leach the chlorine, this method is especially good for growing sativa/haze as they are especially sensitive to nutes, it takes all the guesswork out,! And the soil is fully reusable as it gets better with age, just got overdo it! And if you are gorilla growing find a place where nettles grow, as nettles only grow on the richest of soil, it has the perfect balance for growing Mary Jane! I love your articles Migro, they are well researched and packed with info, Happy growing all!
The grow books I bought when I was just a wee lad say 300ppm atmospheric CO2. I was doing another overhaul in my room and had to use tents in less conditioned spaces to keep things growing and my god, when I got things back in the room and environment dialed in the canopy growth in just 2 days was shocking. Environment is so, so important and it ain’t real nice in there for us humans 86-87F and 75%RH is where my plants thrive during veg and first 3 weeks of bloom, even higher if you want to push 12-1500ppm of CO2 (I run around 800-1000ppm). Board shorts and flip-flops and still straight to the shower whenever I’m in there for more than a couple minutes.
i have a controller (ac infinity 69) to control my fan speed im using an ac window unit to cool the room to around 68F for night time temperature drops and letting the lights/fan control temp during day cycles. its my first run and my temps with my fan settings at a minimum of a 1 to make sure i have airflow, with the fan settings increasing by 1 per degree it goes over my preset (77F). it does well but about every 15 minutes it seems to swing the temps by up to 5 degrees or so. its fluctuating between 72.5-77.5F . is the rapid temperature fluctuation an issue even if it is in the right range?
To increase yield get a bigger place? When environment and nutrients are dialed in your limiting factor is co2. Tell a athlete to go to Denver’s and perform at a high rate without an oxygen mask to breath into when there on the side lines they will not be able to perform. that’s the same with your plants .
@3:26 The man in the chair states to keep temperature 🌡 no more than 28 Celsius due to Growth Rate being less if exceeding that temperature then @10:30 he states about vpd and the ideal temperature we want to control the room to would be around 25 to 30 Celsius or centigrade. Based on 0 to freezing point and 100 to boiling point, his information is misleading as stating two different temperatures. 🌡 which one is in excess of what we are apparently are not supposed to exceed, due to heat stress. Then later in the article, night time temperature would be fine to take it to 12 degrees Celsius. I read its good to keep the temperature low so the terpenes don’t evaporate, along with the water, when containing the environment and playing Rain man. But after trying to gain knowledge from this article it has left me wondering what is the best temperature 🌡 still due to the fact the article information is misleading with knowledge on temperatures being Ambiguous in answer. Is it me or is the information in this article not correct and miss leading as clearly states miss leading information then changes the temperature guidelines later in his report 🤔. Kind regards and just looking for the correct information. Xo
Hey my friends.. that’s so funny… stop says the best temperature for growing cannabis are 25 😆 lolll all strain need different things because all strain are different 😉 sativa need more high temperature then indica 😉 sativa need around 30degrees and in diva need around 23-25 if you go too cold the plant stop drink nutrients…I got a lottt experience I grow with big cannabis farm like 30 years 😉 I’m not little homemade grower I grow 10,000 plant and more 😉👍
ugh I disagree with VPD charts, Especially in soil with lower deltas, those numbers at 25c running 65% you risk calcium deficiencies, rot and you will get some serious cupping with hiigher light loads, sure at 50% you gonna waste water but if you use less fans to sweep away the transpiration less often you can run harder with your light, just be careful of your nitrates in the sweat. Id challenge anyone to stick to the high side of the VPD chart running soil and I start at 20% humidity with no fans running, bet i can regulate things and grow for less energy, sure my seedlings might need a spray or dome in the mornings or leaves curl but they will grow stronger with better vascular systems from running all that wasted water, id rather waste water than electricity in fans People forget its a desert plant that comes from the dry mountains of morocco and afghanistan, autos are suited to russian summers, why do you try to provide amazonian rainforest conditions, where plants need to eat bugs to get nutrients coz they cant grow roots in a bog.. they get free energy from higher deltas in the soil and the air, use that to your advantage, let your pots dry, stay away from the rot zone and use less energy in fans, its win win win imo Blindly following VPD without knowing how or why to do all the math involved (VPD= LEAFSVP – (AIRSVP x AIR%RH)) is a kin to putting coolaid on your plants, idiocracy style, the internet says they need electrolytes right…
Only thing I was wtf when he said high temperatures slow growth someone should learn how to talk to the plants and tell those tropical strains I don’t think they got the memo. Why not every word or piece of information is for every strain of cannabis. Why this low stress is all bullshit. It’s a narrative that fits autos and isn’t for every plant but sure is told or narrated like it’s for every single plant. Early on this crucial to top and get as many main stems that will grow where your buds will for around the top. But please do tell me how topping and stress on a plant is a bad things please do tell 🤓