This paper presents a new methodology for measuring the instantaneous average exhaust mass flow rate in reciprocating internal combustion engines. The air and fuel mixture is ignited using a spark plug in the SI engine or by auto-ignition in the CI engine, which gets converted int. According to the VAG-COM diagnosis guide, a 200bhp naturally-aspirated engine should flow about 160g/s of air at full-throttle peak power when at sea level. For example, a ZR-1 Corvette engine running 6000 rpm with a gas temperature of 1400 F showed an exhaust flow rate around 2000 cfm. Results show that the effective ranges of air pressure and mass flow rate are limited by IC engine exhaust temperature; the higher the exhaust temperature, the larger the effective ranges.
Exhaust gas properties are important for the exhaust system design, including its physical properties, exhaust gas temperature, and exhaust gas flow rate. Airflow volumes are typically based on the types of vehicle being serviced. The idea behind upgrading to an exhaust header typically comes down to increasing the exhaust piping diameter and increasing exhaust scavenging by aligning the exhaust pulses in a.
The technical data provided by the manufacturer states that the engine will produce 505 cfm as the maximum exhaust flow rate. The auxiliary flow rate should be 50 to 75 of the total exhaust flow from the cupboard. Below 50 there is no beneficial effect, and above 75 the auxiliary flow rate has no beneficial effect.
For sake of simplicity, the circuit was operated at averaged values (oil flow rate and pressure drops are 25 L/min and 2 bar; exhaust gas flow rate and mean piston speed are 6000 ft/min). At one third throttle, the corresponding flow is 6277 liters/min.
📹 Noob’s Guide To Modding Exhaust!
Guide to Car Modding Episode 1 Exhaust is often the first mod most enthusiasts make to their car, it’s cheap and allows affordable …
What is the maximum exhaust velocity?
High energy propellants have exhaust velocities ranging from 3000 to 4500 m/s, with the liquid hydrogen-oxygen combination being in the upper part of this range. Pressure is expressed as newtons per square meter (N/m2) in SI, while one pound per square inch is 6895 N/m2. American rocket research and development from 1945-1959 used the English system of units, but NASA has directed metric units to be used in all publications.
The international system mandates newtons for force, newtons per square meter for pressure, and joulesper second per square meter for heat transfer rates. To ensure readability and concession to those brought up in the English system, some compromises have been made.
Thrust is expressed in newtons (N), kilonewtons (kN), and meganewtons (MN), with a newton being the force that gives 1 kilogram of mass an acceleration of 1 meter per second per second (m/s2). Propellant flow is expressed in kilograms per second (kg/s), with 1 lb = 0. 4536 kg.
How to improve exhaust flow?
A header system is a modification that replaces the factory exhaust manifold with an aftermarket header, enhancing exhaust flow and increasing horsepower and torque. Headers come in various styles, and it’s crucial to consult a professional before purchasing. A high-flow catalytic converter improves performance by allowing more exhaust gas flow, but it’s not always street-legal. A straight-pipe exhaust system removes all mufflers and resonators, resulting in a more aggressive exhaust note. However, straight pipes are often illegal and can be disruptive, and the lack of mufflers can lead to a loss of low-end torque.
How do you calculate exhaust airflow?
To determine the airflow exhaust fan capacity, multiply the room’s volume in cubic meters (m3) by length, width, and height, then multiply this volume by the recommended air changes per hour. To find the best fan for your kitchen, bathroom, or other room, follow these steps:
Determine the room’s volume by multiplying length, width, and height by the recommended air changes per hour.
Determine the fan’s size and airflow specifications, as they can vary widely.
In summary, understanding the airflow exhaust fan capacity is crucial for your room’s needs.
Is 1 intake and 2 exhaust good?
The use of a single intake and exhaust fan is typically preferable; however, the incorporation of additional fans can enhance cooling efficiency by enabling them to operate at lower speeds, thereby reducing noise and air turbulence within the case.
What is mass flow rate standard?
The mass flow rate is a pivotal variable in both engineering and fluid mechanics, signifying the velocity at which fluids, such as liquids and gases, traverse a given area. This measurement is typically expressed in kilograms per second (kg/s).
How do you calculate ideal flow rate?
The flow rate formula is a mathematical equation that calculates the velocity of a fluid multiplied by the cross-section area, with the resulting value expressed in meters per second squared. In an ideal setting, frictional forces impede the movement of the fluid, resulting in a uniform flow.
What is the ideal mass flow rate?
The optimal mass flow rate for hydrodynamic processes is within the range of 1. 07 to 1. 23 kg/s. Please be advised that this site employs cookies and that your consent is required for continued use. Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B. V., its licensors, and contributors. All rights are reserved, including those pertaining to text and data mining, AI training, and analogous technologies. The open access content is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4. 0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4. 0) license.
What is the speed of exhaust flow?
Pressure waves propagate through the exhaust manifold at a local speed of sound, while the gases themselves move at an average speed of 100–125 m/s. An erroneous design can result in considerable back pressure within the exhaust system, which may impair efficiency and power output. When pressure waves undergo a change in geometry, a negative pressure wave is generated in the opposite direction.
Is it better to have more intake or exhaust?
Positive airflow is crucial for optimal cooling performance in a PC case, as it creates positive pressure when fans pull in more air than they push out, reducing the vacuum effect. To achieve positive airflow, have more intake than exhaust fans or run them slightly faster if they’re in equal numbers. Intake and exhaust placements are essential for proper fan placement, with fresh cool air in and hot air out.
For example, in the popular Lian Li O11 Dynamic case, a solid fan configuration would include intake fans on the bottom and exhaust fans on the top, allowing fresh air to enter the case and cool components, while hot air generated by hardware rises and leaves through the top exhaust fans.
How do you calculate exhaust flow rate?
The formula for calculating engine displacement is as follows: first, the displacement is multiplied by the revolutions per minute (RPM), then divided by 60 to obtain the volume per minute. This figure is then multiplied by 120, 000, the volume in litres per hour, and divided by 1000 to obtain the volume in litres per cubic metre.
What is a good intake to exhaust flow ratio?
Head porters argue that the upstream cross-sectional area in a race engine’s intake valve should be 90 of the flow diameter, while for a street engine, it should be 0. 85. This is based on the valve’s flow diameter at the inner edge of the valve seat, which may be smaller than the throat diameter directly above the valve seat. However, this doesn’t account for partial blockage caused by the valve guide and stem. To calculate the equivalent port cross-sectional area, use the formula: Flow Diameter for Street Engine = valve diameter x 0. 85.
📹 Why Not to Change Your Car’s Muffler
Muffler explained and why not to change or modify the one that comes with your car’s exhaust system. Why not to change your …
When shopping for an exhaust I look at budget, tone, and performance. There are great exhaust that are loud but are very expensive then I decide if I want a deep rumble or a raspy race car tone. Finally I decide if I want to keep performance in mind and get the full benefit of a free flowing exhaust or sacrifice it a bit for a more games exhaust note.
I think it’s best to drive a car stock for a while before any modifications. 🙂 I think you should at least drive it until you get sick of one particular thing. Some cars need new exhausts more than others, and some cars need new interiors more than others – just learn to appreciate the car stock and find out what she needs most.
Part of what makes exhaust modding confusing, is that so many people and companies get the terms “resonator” and “muffler” backwards. To clear it up: -Muffler: uses either sound absorption packing or baffle plates to reduce overall sound energy over a wide frequency range. Similar to a firearm suppressor. -Resonator: uses mathematically tuned sound chambers to create resonant frequencies that counteract the natural resonance of the exhaust (a.k.a. “drone”). Hence the name “resonator”. Similar to how noise canceling headphones work. Getting these terms backwards leads to a lot of bad exhaust modifications. For example, a super common mod is to delete the “muffler” (which is actually the drone controlling resonator), and keep the “resonator” (which is actually the overall volume controlling muffler). This mod aims to add a little volume without introducing drone, but ends up having the exact opposite effect. You just get tons of drone, without much more volume, because the incorrect use of terms leads people to modify the wrong components.
I work at an exhaust shop, and I don’t have a bunch of money to spent on an exhaust, so on my f150 is took off the y pipe and muffler, and now it has true duals that kick out before the rear tires. It was still super quiet, so I also have like 2.5 feet of 3″ pipe then about a foot of 3.5 inch pipe as the tips, but I think I’m gonna get rid of the rear cats, and put in nicer mufflers and tips so it stays at an okay volume, but sounds better.
Did my own catback recently. Came within $100 of a higher quality ss catback built for my car, specs the same, same muffler. Would have been better to just get the better one already built. I did need it done right away though, so there’s that. Not a big mistake just something to look into if you were thinking about it.
Hey, just found your website. I really appreciate your articles since they’ve helped me kind of start learning about the car modding scene. I was wondering if you think it’s at all possible to find an exhaust system that is compatible for a 2015 Buick Verano? From what I’ve gathered the newer Buicks are really hard to mod.
I got a muffler and resonator delete but it sounded more obnoxious than cool. I got the resonator put back on and now it’s just quiet. I’m trying to save up for a cat back exhaust job. My concern about the tuning job is I did a quick search for tuning places near me but they all cost a ton and have bad reviews.
I’m doing full turbo back exhaust. I’m thinking about replacing the cast stainless exhaust manifold too. I’ve found two so far. One is 799 cast 304 stainless it flows 10% more air. The second is custom made from a guy who has same car as me. He doesn’t have numbers on his but has dyno sheet. But his is $1000
I would dissagre with anyone saying exaust upgrades dont incresse horseower i have a 2001 jetta vr6 and when i would floor it to redline in first it would go up to 60km/h before i switch gears (im canadian and dont know mph as well) then after doing a resognator delete and getting a new muffler 1/4 the size it can get up to 70km/h in first and it feels much more responsive in all the gears
dont forget the best mod there is: timely and proper maintenance. So many kids buy beat up old cars for their first car, and start putting useless junk on it before even going through it and making sure its mechanically sound to drive. Mods are useless if your bushings are all rotted out and your crashing your way around corners.
My friend and I got in a huge argument about which makes the car reach higher speed faster. (for the exact same car). A Manual transmission or an automatic transmission. I’m not a car guy.But im trying to learn and it would really be helpful if someone could clear this up for me. Or bladed angel could do a article explanation.
Hey brother I wanted your opinion I just purchased a 2017 2.4L Kia Sportage ex model only had 14.5k miles on it. I did some homework and decided I wanted to choose flowmaster HP 2 muffler and DC Sports 3.5in resonator tips because I don’t want my vehicle to sound too obnoxious just moderate sound. My dilema is that there is a mid resonator dead center underneath and the muffler is at the very rear end of the vehicle and this is my 1st time seeing something like it. So I was debating whether or not to leave the mid resonator and attach with the new muffler or swap it with a catback system. I would love to hear your thoughts on it. Oh and I’m just sticking with the stock intake and just replacing the filter with a better one instead. Ok I’m done with my questions lol. Hope to hear from you soon! 😁👍
You mention about having a new ECU tune because the new exhaust system will make the car react to differently. But how a classic car with the good old fashioned carburator & ignition distributor system will react to this ? Does the carbs will need tuning too ? Same for distributor ? (don’t really know if you can tune a distributor)
I fail to understand where pro sports aftermarket exhausts systems fall into the “cheap” category though? At least not a full system, an induction kit is cheaper, even intercoolers can be much cheaper than exhausts, maybe a simple res delete, but then again I suppose you can get some aftermarket systems at a good price
So without taking your car down to a tuner, maybe if I just take my ecu with me can they tune it from just that? Or what if I get a portable turner and just take that to them? How will they know just what to adjust to make it good for what mods I have done to my vehicle? Sorry I’m replacing things one by one and still getting the hang of rebuilding an entire vehicle from the frame up.
Hey Bladed Angel, i’m planning on buying a Ford Fiesta ST from 2005 and i want to tune it, the car itself costs €2,500 and i want to spend at most €4,000 on it. So i like to get a new exhaust but also i’d like to chip it. Also i’m gonna paint it a Focus RS 2017 Blue with matte black stripes down the sides. That means i have €1,000 left to chip or do something else to my Fiesta. So what do you recommend? I’d like to know it! 🙂 (and yes, i’m gonna wait a few months before tuning it.)
Bladed Angel I am thinking about buying a mustang GT in the near future but the car might get banned do to high emissions. Do you know a mod that makes it just a little louder but releases less Co²? Its going to be a daily driver so I am thinking more H-pipe but with a filter or something, good or bad idea?
Its crazy how much is extra crap is on an exhaust now, my Yr 2000 Hilux is just a muffler and thats it, my dads new Toyota Hilux has: EGR valve, DPF unit, vibration eliminator, cats, resonator, and muffler just off the turbo :/ He removed all, car is fumy as. Pro tip, in 2019 if you remove the muffler and resonator it makes no sound change at all, I dont even know why have them, (Ive only tested with diesels) as soon as you remove DPF, EGR and cats the noise comes through (thats with muffler off) I tested on about 6 Toyota.
“Most cars have restrictive exhausts” is false, it’s more like 20% of them, while the rest of them have perfectly sized exhaust, meaning ANY extra power mods will start restricting it, making it feel undersized, when it was perfectly sized for for stock. If you plan on doing any tunes, yeah, you want a new exhaust. However, it won’t do much as an upgrade alone.
So I am completely new to how car modding works in general, since I am too inexperience to swap out an exhaust (Flowmaster Outlaw Axle-Back) on my mustang ecoboost, what kind of place or who should I ask to swap it for me? I tried looking up on Reddit but no search results answered what I had in mind. I don’t know what kind of mechanic could accept this kind of work and how much it should cost.
any of y’all know anything about the spin techs? got a plan to do 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust on my nova with a 350. lookin at long tube headers, and no catalytic converter. thinking moving the muffler right up on the header and dumping it straight down around the rear passenger seat. thinking the super street 9000 is the way to go but are there pro bullets better?
Im currently looking to re do the exhaust on my 4g63 N/A Eclipse. I really dont want it to sound raspy or ricey and live in germany so it cant be too extremely loud anyway, plus the cat and all need to stay in. I thought of just re-doing the muffler, was told that can do a lot but am unsure… basically, no droning, no rasping, just a nice deep sound that opens up once you get on it is what i hope for. Anyone got any ideas?
Consider me as a newbie, i have bmw 2010 730 li black since it gives me more aggressive touch i dnt like the original stock sound of the car i need it to be bit aggressive with some bass do i need to change all the exhaust system pipes and muffler or there is any sort of hack like muffler casing or any cover which can Convert the stock sound into something else..please advise
Hey, so I’m new to cars and wonder if anyone can say if this axle back is good. It’s called a “Borla 11786 – S-Type Axle-Back Exhaust System – 2.25″ In/2.25″ Out Pipe – Split Rear Exit” I can only really afford an axle back right now. My reason for this mod is because my car sounds like a Prius or a silent fart going by. So my main goal right now is to actually have it sound like I’m driving a car. If there are any other mods that can actually make my car sound like a car please help me!
So my sister had a citroën C1. Tiny little car. And, she accidentally made it sound like the most badass little vehicle ever by breaking the exhaust. It got loose and shook around so much it created a low rumbling noise. Thought I heard a fucking monster truck start up. But no, just a broken citroën C1.. I’m sad she fixed it.
hey guys, i have a question, im 14 and i have an 87 c10 truck and i want to put something on it but I want to know whether I should save my money for a set of Vorsteiner rims ($600) or put cutouts on the brand new exhaust kit to give it a better sound, keep in mind that if I don’t get rims, i will either get american racing or stock, and I’m in a high school and would love to win some rev battles, tell me your opinion
So.. I got a ’14 Fiat Panda. It’s a daily driver, and a kind of “wtf-project”. I already got it lowered, and put some rims on it. But is it possible to fit an exhaust? (I have no idea, if it’s possible, because I did some research and none show up. So I’m kinda just wondering if it HAVE to be an exhaust specifically for that brand of a car, or you can fit different ones.) I already tried to look for ECU’s, and other modifications, but for a Fiat Panda the range of different parts isn’t that huge. And I don’t wanna be branded as a ricer, but it seems to me, that an exhaust is pretty much the only mod you can do on a Fiat Panda, other than visual modifications. Anyone who could help me out in this situation? Perhaps not only with exhausts, but if theres any other parts that are kind of “universal”, and don’t rely on which car you have.
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You can change the exhaust without making it louder. For example install a true dual no crossover exhaust on a V8, and install two separate cats and two separate mufflers. That way your car didn’t get louder but it sounds much nicer because of the uneven firing V8 shining and showing it’s real character. 👌
According to this guy, engineers design perfect cars and we shouldn’t do any mods to them. What he neglects to mention is that engineers are also restricted by governmental restrictive emissions laws and rules that don’t allow engines to breathe freely. That’s exactly what happened in the mid-seventies when engines suddenly lost hundreds of horsepower for the same size. It’s like for a human to go biking with a scuba diving mask on.
I had a 1982 Mercury Lynx that had a huge muffler and a tiny tailpipe that would top out at 89 MPH. I had the muffler taken off and replaced with an ANZA angle cut resonator tip. The sound was great. I put one of those TURBO stick on placards on the hatch lid. Everybody swore it had a turbo with it backfiring and flaming. It would then do 125 MPH with no further mods. I loved that car to death!
Hey Scotty, great stuff….but not all cars will run poorly, or have the check engine light come on just by replacing the muffler. I replaced the stock mufflers on my mustang gt with magnaflow competition mufflers. The deep tone sounds amazing, and I’ve driven over 12,000 miles so far with NO check engine light, or rough idle etc. I guess it really depends on the car.
If you have a MAF efi system you shouldnt have to worry about “tuning” for a new exhaust system. The MAF calculates the additional air being pulled in and compensates that with fuel, thus telling the oxygen sensors what readings it should put out, please. Correct me if i am misunderstanding something here.
C’mon Scotty! You know as well as the rest of us that one of the things people have to do with their cars when modifying the intake or exhaust of their car these days is to retune it with a computer. That makes the A/F ratio correct with the new freer flowing systems. It is standard operating procedure these days. That trumps re-jetting a carb any day. I know – I’ve had to reject carbs after bolting a set of headers, 360 manifold and a 650 Holley double-pumper on that old 350 chevy engine 45 years ago.
Well, loudness is desirable, beck fire is desirable, if you taking off your muffler you might end up removing catalytic converter, if I’m not wrong Jdm classsics do not change the fuel injecting because of those o2 sensors and My European classic does not have those sensors anyway… so I think it is all good.
Partly disagree and partly agree, I feel if you change the muffler that there still capability of the software to be able to adapt to the threshold now if you slap on let’s say a set of headers that’s a different story plus it’s probably worth tuning the car anyway to take advantage of those headers just my two cents.
Scotty’s definitely right in this one I installed Borla Attacks Mufflers on my 2014 Mustang V6 and it definitely feels slower, feels like Honda Civic 4 cylinder during acceleration it’s embarrassing 😅 also car feel like not shifting right, but it is loud as hell. Gonna weld my Stock Mufflers back on. That was $980 down the drain. Little advice if you want your vehicle performance very nicely keep your vehicle Stock, unless you were adding turbo or super charger on it then you can mess with Exhaust, Tune and all that, otherwise it’s not worth it,
“4:45 Not much difference for actual power” Depends on the car, depends on what you do. Example: 2003 RSX type-s stock makes “210” When we dyno’d it it ran 195 to the wheels, then we did a header job and a slight tune. It ran 220 wheel. thats around a 20% gain, you do feel that. Here’s another one: 2008 Legacy 2.5GT. Headers + Full exhaust + Intake + Larger turbo + Built engine(Stock C/R, forged internals) Stock ran 230 wheel(8L/100km hwy), after mods made 410 wheel(6.5L/100km hwy). Made more power, used less gas on the highway. I’ve spent some time working on the LGT’s the downpipe is a horrid design, just changing that out will net 20 – 30 hp(With a tune) People, like yourself, fail to think about one key thing; CAR COMPANIES WANT MONEY. If they can make a part cheaper, they will. Look at the manifolds on a E92 328, they are GARBAGE, 1 and 3 face each other, but its cheaper to make then a proper set of headers. its a tradeoff. more money in their pocket, more money out of yours for gas.
Kind of crazy but he is right, ECUS are designed to operate within certain parameters fuel ratio and exhaust ratio although ELectronics can make some arrangements to compensate weather, high and stuff those parameter have some boundaries, moving from certain exhaust restrictions/ back pressure (standard muffler) to No restriction al all May exceed ECU parameters and then you should Tune ECU, I’ve learned this hard way with my HD motorcycle when I swapped the OEM muffler to one Vance & Hines with No muffler o resonator the nuke ran like crap until I flashed the ECU to match new pipe parameters but yeah 😎 sounds so noisy and cool
Why do people think a simple muffler swap or delete will make a car run bad, maybe obd 1 or carborated sure, but modern cars ALL have short and long term fuel trims, and the ecu knows how the engine should run and it will compnsate for any changes to the system around +-10% to keep the afr correct. This whole it won’t run right bullshit holds no water for modern cars, they are designed to compensate for changes in afr or they would not run well at different temperatures, altitdes…
most modified cars that “backfire/overrun” have had their ECU remapped/tuned through their OBDport to run correctly. usually a stage2 or more is required to run a cat-delete and is also a requirement if they want to have have a burble tune in the mapping. which is what makes cars like Ferrari or VAG cars like, VW, Audi Porsche, and Lambo’s backfire
Come on Scotty you was a teenager once like me (old guy) lol. These young guys get their cars tuned when they mod them. Stop trying to discourage kids for doing what we did in our day. Yeah things have changed and there’s different ways of tuning and tweaking and things these kids do than we did. Yeah computers are involved these days but these guys are super savvy at that too. I’ve learned a lot from young dudes on the YouTube about tuner cars so I got me a Hyundai Veloster turbo lol and I love it and love learning what this new generation of guys do to mod their rides. Let’s see some encouragement to the new generation of gear heads…how’bout it
dear scotty…I have a 2.2l 4cyl s10 pickup,we oversized the manifold pipe, hollowed the cat, put a cherry bomb and resonator tip on…then added a nitro obd2 performance chip, another performance module on the air intake sensor, a huge cold air intake filter, and some fuel magnets. some say I’m crazy, but I swear it saves me up to 5 dollars on gas every 2 weeks, and it sounds cool too !!!…just sayin” !!!
ive seen so many do this, changing the muffler to a much louder one, even with a cold air intake or etc etc stuff, it was louder but it was also slower and used much more fuel. even though they realized this, they still refused to change it back, or tune it, cuz that was not something they thought they could afford. even if they extra fuel is eventually more anyways.
Tbh I’ve been running sports mufflers on ‘complicated’ German cars for years without touching the software and the pops and bangs are there or can be turned off via valvetronic and they run like they were stock with slightly better power. These modern ECU systems can adapt that’s why there are various driving mldes like normal/sport/sport plus in these cars anyway. They work just fine.
Funny enough, I bought a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer from a woman who said it didn’t have a catalytic converter. Turned out it had an $900 Magnaflow high flow cat and muffler. Needless to say, it made it sound like a Nascar. Now? I just bought a 94 4Runner off Craigslist. Turns out. Someone decided to straight pipe it so it doesn’t have a muffler. Still has a cat though, just no muffler.
Also Hop in any car Kick it down an see what it has, Then un bolt the exhaust from headers An kick it down, Makes a world differance xause of less air restriction but doing it the right way by upgrading air an fuel ratio would help a lot more I mean I drive a 04 Mustang 5.0 swapped with 3 inch straight pipes from headers with a x pipe an 2 down tips Other than that ported throttle body ported intake manifold, ported intake manigold plate, ported heads, headers, bigger injectors, a full aftermarket 3.5in air intake a few other things an it’s a hell of a lot faster than a stock 5.0
Scotty, what you are saying here is : don’t change your muffler without remapping your ECU. That’s different from don’t change your muffler. Also people are combining these upgrades typically. That means it’s not about swapping out the muffler and calling it a day, if you are smart you did your muffler along with your intake and pulleys with a remap. Then you are ready to have a lil fun.
Honestly have to completely disagree with this one. I’ve done catback systems on three of my cars (91 Celica, 02 V6 Mustang, 06 Cobalt SS Supercharged) and they all increased in fuel mileage and ran better. Also didn’t retune the cars. Also installed cold air intakes on the all and again added a few mpg. A basic intake and exhaust kit on my V6 mustang took it from 23mpg to 28-32 depending on how much highway it saw.
I have a mystery problem with my bronco. Starts up badly and runs rough till warm but still not perfect. I replaced everything accept ecm. Then I pressed on my exhaust band it appeared to affect the idle. My Cat is only crappilly exhaust clamped in place and you can clearly hear spitting noise. Starting to wonder if this is the cause
Definitely makes it run worse, especially on motorcycle everyone replaces the exhausts then you buy them second hand with the aftermarket exhaust, I’m not a fan of that at all, I would have kept the original exhaust, I’m really not sure if loud noise makes huge difference for safety on motorcycle, sometimes tempting to sell the aftermarket exhaust and buy the original.
i got an aftermarket muffler so its more of a aggressive sound but the car has always idled up and down a little the tach doesn’t show that small change but i do hear it. done it before the exhaust was done and still does it after but i wonder if it has anything to do with the air fuel sensor. not the o2 sensor the the one thats in the air cleaner of newer cars. i never changed it when i had a new engine and transmission put in.
Hey Scotty, HAs the website ever did a dual exhaust versus single challenge/test? i just got a 84 cutlass with horrible sounding dual 2″ exhaust with red glasspack bottles and wondering if it would sound better as in more rumbly with one single 3″ which will also flow better since one 3″ pipe is about 7 sq cm versus 2 x2″ =6.28 sq cm? or can that smaller 2″ dual setup scavenge better and keep low end TQ versus a big single which may gain high rpm hp but sacrifice about the same amt of low/mid range TQ to make the question even harder, im currently running the stock 305 SBC but already bought a used 2003 5.3L LS which will double the stock 305hp (nevermind all the ponies that escaped that 305 barn in last 37 yrs, lol. ) SO i dont wanna spend any more than neccessary on this dual system if im gonna upgrade to a bigger dual or bigger single exhaust for the LS motor in near future
You can modify whatever you want as long as you have the car tuned to your modifications. I have a Nissan Juke Nismo RS pushing 403 HP at 26psi no check engine lights, runs great, if I drive normally and when I turn down the boost to 16psi for normal driving I still get pretty good gas mileage. It’s all about having your car professionally tuned by people that know what they are doing… And as for the sound, I have no catalytic converters I have a nice Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow dual port exhaust they do a great job of muffling the sound, at idle it doesn’t sound any louder then it did before with the Nissan OEM Nismo exhaust system.
I have an 05 Camry 2.4 as my daily. I replaced the OEM 2 catalytic converter. It was clogged really bad. So I gutted the OEM cat. Then I put it back on.😂🤣 No check engine light so far. I drive 100 miles round trip 5 days a week. It’s been a month. Now I’m thinking about ditching the stock exhaust. I think it’s going to be fine.
My previous truck ran fine with three different TRUE DUAL exhaust systems. It came with a single. Didn’t void anything, didn’t affect anything tuning wise, no check engine lights, nothing… For 22 years it was fine… This alarmist advice he’s giving is not based on much besides scare tactics. In fact I just got back from the muffler shop. My 2014 F150 5.0 STX I bought last year got a three inch single exhaust all stainless with a glasspack for a resonator, and Dynomax Ultra Flo welded muffler. Sounds AMAZING, and ran fine all the way home. As far as performance goes, it now feels uncorked….
I cut off my muffler and after 5 times of driving the car, it started but was shaking and then it stalled after 5 seconds. I started it up again but it was cranking for about 20 seconds or more, and then it started making this popping noise under the hood and had a rough idle. So I decided to put it back on but still the same problem.. Should i drive for a little while and see if it gets fixed ?
So scotty, it doesn’t matter if the exhaust is compatible with the car, I wanted to buy a borla exhaust for my 2018 toyota carolla, I don’t race but I wanted it to have a slight roar, nothing crazy. The way I dressed my car up, it doesn’t even look like a carolla, it looks like a Subaru. My car is only 1 year old, I bought it with 4,000 miles on it so if this this change will cause an engine light I won’t do it
So I have a 96 stratus with a 2.5 has only one O2 sensor and I cut the exhaust off it from that back so no cat, muffler, exhaust pipe or anything. So would that screw with the computer pretty bad then? It does run but just curious. Also I’m running it in a demo derby so I don’t really care as look as it runs decent and loud (which it is) for around 10 minutes though