To waterproof your canvas bags, place a piece of plastic sheeting on top of the fabric, ensuring the shiny side is facing down. Fold the excess plastic sheeting over the edges of the fabric, creating a border and secure the edges together using waterproof tape. There are several methods to waterproof your fabric, including choosing water-repellent, waterproof, or laminated fabrics for bag projects, and learning how to sew fabrics that are water-repellent, waterproof, or laminated.
One of the easiest ways to waterproof your canvas bags is using waterproofing sprays and seam sealers. These can be found at outdoor and camping supply stores. If you will use your canvas bag a lot in an outdoor environment, you may want to sun-proof it as well by buying a spray also containing UV protection. Mix 1 part silicone sealant with 3 parts mineral spirits and apply the mixture evenly on the canvas.
Using a waterproofing spray involves deep cleaning the bag, applying the sealant, and spraying the bag with the waterproofing product. Premade waxed cotton canvas can be used to make waterproof gear and bags, but you can also DIY it. The most visual way of waterproofing a bag is by using a rain cover, which are large sheets of water-resistant material pulled over the whole bag.
The most common methods include using wax, silicone spray, or waterproofing solutions specifically designed for canvas. Each method has its pros and cons, so it is essential to seal your seams for truly waterproof bags. No matter how waterproof the fabric is, seams will never be waterproof without additional treatment.
📹 A Simple DIY Way to Waterproof Anything
As spring starts to roll around, with bulbs blooming and buds popping, you’re probably itching to get outside. As much as we are …
📹 A Better Way to Waterproof Fabric
In this video we explore a new fabric waterproofing method using wax, oil and several different application techniques for …
– She use a mix with 8% silicone (by volume) but I don’t think the ratio is that important. – Don’t mix more than you are going to use since you can’t save the leftovers. – Hopefully obvious, but just in case: let it dry outside (or somewhere well ventilated) since the spirit fumes are unhealthy. – From the Wikipedia article called “white spirit”: “White spirit (UK) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), Varsol, Stoddard solvent, or, generically: paint thinner.” SE: Lacknafta NL: Terpentine FR: Naphta lourd DE: Testbenzine IT: Acquaragia RU: Уайт-спирит
this works but be careful not to get too much of it on your zippers. I did several backpacks and one of them I got a bit sloppy with. The mineral spirits evaporated away and left the silicone but it had built up on the zipper teeth. the zipper still works but there’s a spot about 1/2″ long where I really have to pull to get the zipper to pop over the built up silicone. I figured the silicone would wear off after a few zips but it hasn’t. Just an FYI
Ingredients: ~1 qt (946 ml) Odourless Mineral Spirits (aka White Spirit or Mineral Turpentine) to 100% Clear Silicone ~2.6 oz (1 tube, 83ml). Mix anywhere from 1:1 to 3:1… does not have to be exact since mineral spirits will evaporate after application. Need mixing container and paint brush (cleaned out with mineral spirits when done).
I have been doing this before I saw this article and first used clear silicone and white spirit from my local hardware store (UK), any solvent should work OK. it is best to mix in an old coffee jar with a screw lid so you can shake to mix. Experimented with different consistencies but works pretty well to make things water resistant like cycling gloves, you will not make things completely waterproof that weren’t before. Any silicone sealant will work but the quality can vary and will effect the end result flexibility. Whilst in Poundland buy some paintbrushes as it is easier to throw them away after doing this.
People asking questions 1. What’s the ratio? Just keep adding the thinner until you get the consistency needed, the more thinner the more liquid it becomes. Remember the thinner evaporates and only the silicone is left behind. A thinner liquid will penetrate deeper but something thicker like paint is good to seal metals and wood. Can also do several coats. 2. What type of thinner to use? You can basically use any thinner you have, except acetone because it might evaporate too quickly. Do a quick search if it dissolves silicone. 3. Will it make the fabric stiff? There is minor stiffness to the fabric, barely noticeable. However, with many coats you will make it stiffer and stiffer. To get good water resistance should leave it soft enough. 4. Other uses? You can add it to paints to make them more waterproof. Keep in mind dissolved silicone will not mix with water without other additional chemicals, so don’t try to add it to vinyl or acrylic paint, which is water based.
See, I immerse the entire garment/whatever in the mixture. I use a plastic bag I have tested that will not react to the mixture, place the ‘whatever’ inside, tie off the neck of the bag, then gently knead the contents, ensuring it is entirely coated. I leave a while, then continue kneading, doing this three or four times. Yes, it uses up more, but you’re assured it has penetrated the gaps between the weave and filled them, ensuring it is 100% waterproof. Each to their own.
I am wrong in thinking that putting the item in a bucket of the mixture, and really soaking it, before wringing it out and then hanging it up would be okay and might give it a more through coating? I use sprays on my suit pants so that even leaving the office and facing a sudden shower, a light waterproof jacket is fine. Also helps when you spill coffee!
She has the ingredients and the idea right but she’s mixing the ingredients the hard way. Don’t add all the mineral spirits in at once. Instead add it in slowly, 1/4 cup at a time, and blend after each addition to avoid lumps. After you have blended in about 1 cup, the mixture will be thin enough that you can add in larger quantities.
Right to subject, a plus. Music, meh. I was wondering, how flame proof is item Now? I was thinking of using mineral spirits and linseed oil. I have free materials to use to make a tarp from acrylic pain and linen material. Do you these methods would hold up to water and being flame proof? Anyone have thoughts? Thanks.
Looks effective, but what about toxicity? The tube says toxic, referring to preservatives in the silicone and VOCs. A friend’s shoe repairman sprayed her shoes with commercial preparation and her feet were inflamed within a week. Backpacks etc, are probably OK as these do not directly touch the skin.
A powerful article, I just given this onto a colleague who was doing slightly analysis on this. And he in fact purchased me breakfast as a result of I found it for him.. smile. So let me reword that: Thnx for the deal with! However yeah Thnkx for spending the time to debate this, I really feel strongly about it and love studying more on this topic. If possible, as you grow to be experience, would you mind updating your youtube website with more details? It is highly useful for me. Huge thumb up for this article put up!
Hello I am kind of struggling to get mineral spirit in my location, the other time I tried Turpentine (White spirit) and I had used white silicone in my experiment and it did not thin it out, it was totally a disaster. Please advice on other chemicals I could use in place of mineral spirits. Thank you..
Silicone does not adhere to plastic fabrics very well. The idea presented here will work on backpacks but I think it will peel after a time due to the ever flexing of the backpack. It might be easier to use a plastic bag as an inside liner. Place all your gear into the plastic bag and then put it into the backpack. Even if the backpack gets wet, your gear will remain dry. If you have tested the formula presented in the article for time duration on your backpack, let me and the rest of the readers know how the silicone coating held up.
Kiwi makes a great product in a spray can. Scotchguard makes a great product as well. Wal-Mart or Target or Amazon sells it. Any camping store will sell waterproofing spray. I use it on all my hiking shoes as well as boots. My boots are waterproof but I still spray them down. I spray my backpacks as well. The stuff works great. This diy method works great too.
I’ve seen this used on tarps or tents, but on personal items? How would you tolerate walking around with a bag on your back that smells like paint thinner all the time? Seems you now can’t wash the smell out because you did such a good job of waterproofing it! I guess that’s what you call “DIY irony”.
Try using it on something black. I did, on my motorbike panniers. And it made a total bollocks of them. 24hrs later, and the silicone is starting to peel on it’s own. Rubbing it with my finger, makes a right fucking mess. Do NOT use this bullshit method. I got photo’s of the mess it made, but don’t know how to put them on here
So annoyed.. I made 4 bird feeders from burlap and a glue gun. They WERE…….. beautiful.. I used this mix and it destroyed the glue I had used and everything just fell apart… STUPID STUPID IDEA… Thanks all my hard work went in the bin grrrrrr I should have known not to trust these damm youtube articles…
Thanks God Bless read KJV Holy Bible it’s all real second Flood coming two stars coming Wormwood Revelation 8 Rev. 16:20 The Rainbow Covenant Broken read “Psalm 55:16-20” Beloved Isaiah 28:16-20, Isaiah 30:24-26 to 30, Daniel 7:24-26 It started the Tribulation Build Arks Zoo and Aquarium the waters will kill many Research Revelation 8
Check out my sponsor and remove your personal information from the web at JoinDeleteMe.com/nighthawk and use code NIGHTHAWK for 20% off. DeleteMe international Plans: international.joindeleteme.com If you missed my earlier fabric waterproofing article you can see it here: youtu.be/z_R0gEDZhAI?si=cZlLdKpAv7i47zVf It’s been a strange few months for me figuring out how to keep making articles now having a kid to watch with my wife working part time. Meanwhile I’ve also assembled a new (and long overdue) editing computer thanks to your Patreon support, and learned new editing software starting with this article. I think I’m getting settled into my new routine and articles should keep coming this summer at my typical pace. One update is that I’m trying to figure out a way to start livestreaming while I work on some of my projects. I’ve been hesitant to do that in the past because I don’t want other websites to see what I’m working on and release their own version before I can. Now that I have some long term projects like my radiative cooling paint project I’m less concerned about copycats because everyone already knows what I’m up to. The trouble is that I don’t have internet in my workshop. I could stream from my cellphone but the quality will be very poor. Let me know if you think livestreams would be something you would like to watch. Access might be a Patreon perk while I figure out the details. See you on the next one, and thanks for perusal! -Ben
Plenty of hobbyist websites ask their audience to be renaissance men with thousands of dollars of niche equipment to follow along, and you stroll in and wow us with something you can teach in grade school. They say talent is hitting a target no one else can, but genius is hitting the target no one knew was there. You’re up there as the Michael Faraday of DIYers in my book.
I’m just a 78 yr old female nursing instructer – you are a tremendous teacher. You speak perfect speed, use normal language I can understand, create things I could use, use store bought items and all this with a pleasant personality. How intelligent of you. Your lessons are fun to watch, I always look forward to the next one whether I need it or not. You gave me the ability to comprehend and this helps me retain the knowledge. Thank you Thank you Thankyou. Learning really can be fun not confusing.
Actually you can use your favorite iron with no difficulties. When I was treating my raw pine dining table with beeswax (a LOT of beeswax), we melted it in with our only clothes iron. When we were done, running the hot iron a few times over a couple of paper towels removed every trace of wax from the surface. Being nonabsorbent, it didn’t retain any wax. Filling with water and running the steam setting blew any remaining wax out of the holes, and it was perfectly clean. We still have the iron. We use it on clothes. Not a problem.
one of my favorite things about your website has been the fact that you consistently do fairly rigorous, and often long term, testing of the things you show/talk about. It really elevates you above the common stuff that is either untested or poorly explained because the presenter doesn’t truly understand it themselves; the fact you’re very open about the things you don’t know is also super important to that.
In my opinion, this is a perfect “how to” article. It checks all the boxes. Clear, concise, easy to understand, easy to execute, and most of all effective. Even better, it is well recorded visually, well demonstrated and your narration is perfect. I especially liked how you showed the different formulations of coatings you tried and the different application methods. This article was “scientific” and entertaining at the same time. Well done sir. You have earned my “like and subscribe and notifiy”.
Dude, the favorite part is the whole article. You are able to take anything from a simple idea to a complex one and make it easy enough to understand that a grade schooler can mostly follow along, and yet still make it entertaining enough to keep an educated adult hooked, and still teach said adult. Don’t change
Your use of mineral oil to soften the wax reminds me of “plasticizers” in flexible PVC (vinyl) applications. The plasticizer is a compound, typically a petroleum-based liquid, that is added to raw PVC to impart softness and flexibility. It’s how PVC can range from being as rigid as the PVC pipes in your plumbing to being as soft as the faux leather seats in your car! I work for a company that produces flexible vinyl membrane for flat or low-slope roofing applications, and one of the biggest limiters of a membrane’s lifetime is plasticizer migration. This is where, over long periods of time, the plasticizer leeches out from the polymer matrix. Consequently, the membrane is left brittle and is prone to cracking. I would be very interested in seeing how the mineral oil plasticizer holds up against migration, and consequently how long these coated fabrics retain their flexibility under use. Very cool article!
As a hot tub tech, I’m constantly on my knees in wet places. I hate having wet knees, especially in winter. Since your first article, every new pair of work pants I get goes to my shop first and the fronts get siliconed. Not only do my knees stay dry, but my pants don’t wear out as quickly. As an added bonus, whenever I’m using silicone at work, I don’t need to use paper towels or rags to clean up the excess. I just wipe it off with my finger and smear it on my pants, which just further reinforces the waterproofing.
I just lost my best rain hat in a rainstorm. I followed the instructions and – just for fun – waterproofed my old sunbleached cotton hat as a stand-i. It didn’t take long at all, and worked so incredibly well that water literally runs off it. Its WAY better than the hat I just lost! I also have the sense of achievement having done it, not by myself, but with your generous help. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this and sharing your knowledge with us. Your praises will be sung far and wide!!
I was coating a surplus field jacket with this method and came up with an easy way to melt the wax into the fabric. I put it on a clothes hanger and hung it in my truck on a sunny day and let the greenhouse effect do the work. It did a great job, just took two hours of waiting. The recipe provided worked perfectly, thank you!
Your work with oilskin (aka oilcloth) had me thinking about Superfest glass. Superfest glass came from post-WWII East Germany in 1977. They’d essentially used a potassium ion transfer process to make glass items 15 times stronger than regular glass. This stuff is so strong you could drop it on a tile floor and the tile would break before the glass. The problem is most people do not know about this glass and even less know how American, British, and other companies (like Coca-Cola) stopped this glass from becoming popular due to the industry’s need for planned obsolescence. Were it not for Steve Jobs needing a strong glass, Superfest glass wouldn’t have been reinvented into Gorilla Glass. In my own Native American community, we make arrowheads and knives with both volcanic glass (obsidian) and regular recycled glass…with the microwave kiln being very popular amongst knappers. If you could come up with a way to make a version of Superfest glass that’s approachable, the possibilities are indeed endless. For hunting and other firearm applications, you could use glass projectiles (i.e., shot) that didn’t pollute the environment like lead. For self defense, layers of thin glass could be used to deflect bullets. It could be used in fire protection and heat deflection. In construction, it’d have multiple applications. The same is true for medicsl and dental appliances. Imagine dentures stronger than teeth or bone replacement appliances cheaper and stronger than steel. Even in culinary applications you could have pots, pans, utensils, and razor sharp knives that were stronger, thinner, and lighter than steel.
Sir, I’ve been interested in and researched “tinned cloth” for years. Of course, as you said there are many recipes and methods. I cut up some 10oz canvas and did a handful of tests. Most worked fine, however, the process was “expensive”, stunk forever, and took almost as long to cure. Your method is amazingly cost-effective, fast, and effective. Your presentation was honest, and thorough while addressing all my concerns. It would be shameful of me not to mention your generosity in sharing this. Thank you!!
You are a great teacher. Starting with your explanation of the problem, then testing alternative solutions and showing the results, providing information in a clear (yet not condescending) and well paced manner, you help me understand and learn better. You sound like a friendly guy and I chuckled when your sheets shed water but your shoes got wet. Your articles are like hanging out with a friend who shares information. The knot button and the wax to mineral oil ratio were immensely helpful. Thanks for clearly demonstrating the knot. I appreciate the quality of your advertisers and their presentations, plus the ability to skip back to your article. The ads I want to view fully I can go back to after perusal your article. 😊
As a scientist, I always love all of your articles. The taut-line hitch knot was a nice surprise 🙂 I always mean to learn knots, but find articles/books overwhelming and they don’t stay in my brain. Having the knot provided in context of its application and just one knot at a time helped me actually learn the knot instead of just doing it once and forgetting it!
My father Arthur passed in January of this year. He was in early childhood education, and was an incredibly kind and forgiving man who made MANY people’s lives better through both his ability to share and impart knowledge, and his personal generosity with his time and resources. You look amazingly much like he did, 40-60 years ago. I love your open source sharing of ideas and information, both ancient and new, and the broad range of topics you cover. Thank you for your kind and most professionally produced efforts in education and sharing of knowledge. It honors his spirit, and everyone you grace with new knowledge that improves our lives, and the hub of discussion it creates for further knowledge sharing in the comments section. Salute!
I’ve been doing a lot of extended stays while dispersed camping & having waterproof tarps is essential. However, no matter how careful I am with my tarps, they just don’t hold up with consistent use. I came here looking for options to recondition tarps, but I’m so happy I came across your website. I will definitely be using your incredible technique to make fabric tarps that won’t let me down & will maintain a waterproof barrier for years. Thank you for teaching a safe, easy, & budget friendly way to create essential outdoor gear.
I’m currently experimenting myself with linseed oil and I can definitely say that it’s not useless or expensive. You can make waterproof fabric by soaking it into linseed oil and letting it settle in sunlight in a well aerated location. Linseed oil will slowly polymerize by reacting with oxygen and form a soft, waterproof fabric. HOWEVER BE CAREFUL, if you use boiled linseed oil the polymerization will be rather fast and as it’s an exothermic reaction YOUR FABRIC MAY SELF IGNITE. There are many fires starting spontaneously in workshops every year where people whipe boiled linseed oil with fabric and throw it in a bin. The resulting fabric will be kind of shiny and oily in aspect (not to the touch) and it will become yellow/brown with time but it’s not visible on dark fabric. I’m currently working on a linseed oil/wax mix so your article is (again) spot on.
i obviously came to this article to find out about waterproofing fabric, which was really great! but you really went above and beyond wit the spark test, the button technique, and the knot tying method! such a complete article, plus interesting and useful bonus, without being too verbose/long. thank you so much for that.
This made me think of “oilskins” . I grew up near the ocean in Maine, worked as lobsterman and dive tender. Doing some research, the first fabric treatment that used a similar method to yours was invented by a New Zealander, Edward Le Roy. He used wax and linseed oil. His gear became so popular he started a company making waterproof garments for fishermen and sailors. The method he used was “boiling” the fabric for 3 days in a mixture of wax and linseed oil. A relevant aside, My first pair of L.L. Bean wool lined hunting shoes, from the’70s, came with a tin of a mixture of bees wax and mink oil to upkeep them. I still have those shoes, but the soles have worn out,. Some day want to bring them to back to Bean’s to be reconditioned. I am not going to accept a ‘trade in’.
I’ve splattered silicone roof paint on my clothes many times to discover I’d accidentally waterproofed my jeans and shirts in a way that WON’T wash out. My roofer buddies and I discussed using this method to create custom tarps from large pieces of fabric as needed – and I’m stoked you took the time to create such an in-depth article on the process. I like the wax/oil method and feel there must be other diy methods to play with. The marble/knot tie-down method is an awesome bonus trick. Thank you!
Thanks for putting in the effort and making this available for the public to see. I live in a house that was built back in the 1800s by a simple farmer and whenever I do projects in the yard that require digging, I end up finding marbles. I always thought it was from kids playing in the field. This article makes me think it may have been wagon tarp tie-downs.
The most enjoyable part of your articles, apart from the knowledge you impart, is your enthusiasm and positivity for sharing that knowledge, and your passion for making your techniques accessible and understandable. Sharing the process and the mistakes you made is also invaluable. I’ve enjoyed your content for years and I hope you continue to go from strength to strength.
This is awesome. I’ve been looking for a way to waterproof fabric that didn’t use dangerous chemicals and wouldn’t oil up anything it touches. Thanks! You’re an excellent instructor. I learned how to tie a taut-line hitch in the Navy years ago. It is indeed an extremely useful method for securing things. That marble-for-a-button trick is pretty cool, too!
Thank you for the waterproofing article, I made a 14 foot yurt with my wife using that tutorial! It was extremely expensive to waterproof the fabric, but I really wanted this camping yurt to be fire retardant instead of extremely flammable, like wax or oil cloth. We’ve used it many times, and it came out amazing. The only issue is that we used painters drop cloths for the fabric and in extremely heavy rain the force of water hitting the roof is able to push through a thin mist it’s only a problem and extremely heavy downpours though light rain to moderate rain is fine
I lived under tarps for ten years and ide like to say… thank you! These tarps you are making look awesome! I’m making 20 and giving them out as presents. That knot is also my favorite! I use it for my tarp setups every time. You can combo it with a truckers hitch for that extra tightness when you need it. Love it.
This guy is so happy with his invention. Made me happy for him. I wasnt even remotely interested in how I could waterproof fabric, but seeing his energy and how happy he got every time he would demonstrate it ended up getting me through the whole article. Way to go man keep it up. Im surprised ur not being all secretive about it trying to market it.
Genuinely one of the best DIY articles I have ever seen. Clear explanations reinforced by visual examples, great camera work & cutting plus a quick extra tip about that slipknot button (amazing, something I didn’t know I needed but very happy I learned). On top of all this you’re very sympathetic. 10/10 Thank you Ben!
I love the child like wonder your face shows in your articles. I find myself grinning along with you. It is as contagious as a yawn. Only much more uplifting. Thank you for taking the time to explain ingredients ratios in metric & imperial. I made your silicone tarps from painting dropsheets they are weaved fabric with a plastic sheet backing. I uses “Shellite” as the solvent. Very happy with them. I used marbles for the tiedowns. Just brilliant, I use them to cover old leather or damaged vinyl sofa & recliner chairs on the porch. Really appreciate your generosity to share what you have discovered. Andre from Oz. .
This is very close to the formula I use for sealing cloth hats. I add a bit of ash (about 1oz rice ash per lb is ideal) to the mix to balance the ph, then it lasts damn near forever with daily wear. If using natural wax (bee wax) the ph should be fine and the wax won’t break down from it. Paraffin interacts with human oils and breaks down from it, and the ash slows that process to essentially nil. Your hat or jacket will need replacing before the water proofing gives out, unless you work near heat sources a lot, perhaps.
So, in response to your closing call to action, my favorite part of this was not only did you compare this method with the old one, but explained different ways you’d apply it and why it matters. Also really enjoyed the “bonus” lessons at the end, even though it was stuff I learned in BSA over 20 years ago. Got an interesting hit of nostalgia. As for me least favorite or things to improve? Sadly i didn’t really have anything for you. Best i could think of is add your “recipes” on screen. Personally I’d like to use this to give a second life to some of the orphan bed sheets i have, just gotta find the time
you have such a genuine, curious and open personality! without an ego or any self-importance about and you communicate your ideas and approach your experiments with such deliberate and concise consideration it is simply a delight to learn something new with or from you dear! Thank you for sharing all that you do!!❤❤❤i appreciate the heck out of you! you are absolutely amazing!
Thank you! I must say after perusal this article I still prefer your previous method with silicon and “naphta”. This is because of excellent quality, less sensibility to temperatures and easier ways to apply. I use brush, dip and especially spray. Spraying works really well for clothes: you just treat evenly from outside and it soaks into the outer layer. You can do it on a hangers or right on a person! With the wax method the mixture ratio remains in the product. Whereas for “silicon-gas” you make the mixture by application; the solvent goes away and the silicone remains. No residuals or white lines. Thank you very much your articles are most useful!
Okay so no joke, I watched this article last week and got all my stuff to make it . I got some stuff from goodwill and Amazon and was vary confident that this method would work . I will tell everyone this is a VARY GOOD METHOD, I’m super impressed and can’t wait to make more. It took me about 45 minutes and was easy. Super water proof and light . Thanks for the info this kicks butt 👍
I can confirm your earlier method works great. Shortly after I saw that article I grabbed one of my 8oz 12′ x 15′ canvas drop cloths I got from lowes and treated it. I didn’t use a plastic bag like you did in the first article, I used a rubber trash can. I used a grabber pole to mix it with. I still use that tarp to this day and it still sheds water. The thick canvas makes a great choice as it’s much more durable than a bed sheet. And I’ve tried a few different waxing methods. I have never had good results, I always get those white flex lines you showed. You silicone and naptha (you can still get it at lowes or home depot with no issues) method is superior in my humble opinion. It’s easier to apply and it is more flexible, plus it’s fire retardant. I have some waxed canvas and after a while it looses its waterproofing qualities. And I think it’s cool that your new method has been a wood working finish for years, I use it frequently for bowls I turn on the lathe when I want a food safe finish. I’ll keep using the silicone method for outdoor tarps but I think I’ll give your new method a try on clothing.
I remember using soy bean oil and mineral terpentine in a 2:1 ratio to coat 5 canvas tipis. That was 15 years ago. Very waterproof, easy to spread with a roller and penetrates well. The reaction between the 2 is quite stable, functional and durable. You just need to let the fabric air for a few days before use lighting fires inside. Next time i need to do any large water proofing i’ll give this combo a try and see how it compares! Another awesome experiment you’ve shared with us. BTW, I can’t believe i didn’t know that knot!
First of your articles I’ve seen. I really have no need to waterproof any fabric, but after seeing this i think I’m going to go watch the rest of your content. You make it so easy and accessible with common tools and basic skills that I’m sure i will find articles that teach me things i do have a use for.
The dude with the Tin Pants article came up with a fantastic wax formula that I have been using to waterproof my carhart canvas jacket. It’s robust and flexible, although admittedly not at first, but that stiffness works its way out as you wear the garment. Thank you for the update! I made one of your silicone tarps and later cut it up to make stuff-sacks that are waterproof enough for my needs. Thanks again.
Just thought I’d pass on a little tip for you and anybody else who see’s this. Take a look at the giant billboards along highways/interstates. Those use extremely heavy duty vinyl tarps that are made to handle high winds, harsh UVs and wide ranges of bad weather. It may depend on where you live but there’s normally a company that handles the majority of those sign jobs like Lamar. For years I worked for a small signage company and we would contact one of those larger companies and work out a deal to buy their old used tarps at a heavy discount and then we’d paint over them and do our own signage prints and sell them. They may only be willing to part with them if you buy in bulk but for about the same price you pay for those thin trashy tarps from hardware stores you can get massive (typically 14′ x 48′) commercial grade ones. I’m still using a few that have lasted 20+ years and they’ve never needed any kind of coating or treatment.
Just happened on this article, on a topic I wasn’t looking for and yet, I watched it all the way through and even rewound in spots. So interesting. So informative. So easy to understand. So useful. As soon as a question popped up into my head, you answered and demonstrated it. I’m subscribed now! Oh, my favorite part? All of it!!! And loved the bonus on the knot “how to”. 👍
This is a great article, been perusal you for years. Your a rare breed of backyard scientist who applies the scientific method. Most assume science requires a peer reviewed journal article. For centuries, engineers from Archimedes forward created unique solutions for everyday problems. Thanks for your documentation and attention to detail. Ive gone through many expensive tarps living in the desert southwest, the high UV index and heat might be too much for paraffin-oil, but I forgot about your silicon-solvent approach – thanks for bringing it up. I going to apply the silicon solution on heavy fabric canvas – Thanks for the links above.
This is simply the best explanation I’ve ever come across on how to waterproof by yourself. Like you, I’ve always wanted to avoid the hassle of boiling something first and then soaking it – not only due to the environmental impact, but also the waste and costs involved. The ironing trick – absolutely brilliant! I’m new to working with tarps, but I have two 3×3-meter ones from Bush Craft Spain, and the tip with using a ball to create a new take on the setup is pure genius, even though (and +++for that) it’s a revival of old knowledge.
This has been sold commercially for some time as “Tin Cloth”, which is poorly named, but uses a combination of cotton fabric – heat treated with wax mixed with various oils. There is also a product called Otter Wax that is bar for applying over a smaller area. (Smells very fragrant like the outdoors.)
The tautline hitch should appear as if the “working end” (the end you hold on to and spin around the “standing end”) continues in a straight line. In other words, you spin in one direction twice through the loop and once below the loop in the same direction. What you did by switching directions was make half a lark’s head. The clove hitch has the same look without the other spin through the loop — it appears as if the working end continues in a straight line and the lark’s head reverses direction. I scanned the comments to see if anyone pointed this out, but with 1,400 comments at the time of my reply, I didn’t read them all. Regardless, as someone else said, one day I hope to grow up to be you (I’m barely younger than the other guy who commented). Thanks for the excellent content.
That rubbing on the wax and then hitting it with a heat gun method is exactly how wax is applied to hockey tape on the sticks! Also, I’ve been perusal your articles for over a decade and I love that they’re just as great and inventive, if not more, as they always were. Seeing your new articles on my feed are always good days
Be careful reheating a pot of wax. The underside melts first, building up pressure. If you then poke the surface a stream of wax can shoot out and scald you badly. (I know more than a few artists this has happened to.) & Yes Buttons or nubbins are better than grommets. Grommets are weak. (So are D -rings) For my DIY backpacking tarps, almost always Silnylon, I like grosgrain loops. (Grosgrain is basically ribbon, for tarps and gear, nylon.) Along the bottom I can stick a stake into a loop, twist it around a couple times stick it in the ground. Done. I leave my lines attached to the corners and key points. I’ll often do a complete set up without tying a single knot or adjusting a line. (It’s easier to just move the stake.) I use 100% silicone caulking (the smaller ‘toothpaste’ tube) to seal the seams on my tents and silnylon tarps. (These aren’t left outside for months.) The little kits sold at REI are expensive and you end up needing two of them for a typical back packer tent. Instead I line a cup with aluminum foil squirt some caulk in, then dilute it with paint thinner. I stir it, but not completely, The liquid seals but doesn’t fill gaps, the thicker stuff is great for gaps. For a brush I use plumbing soldering flux brushes (same as in the REI kits) these are 4 – 6 for $2. I don’t seal the perimeter seam, or the gusseted loops along the bottom, these are near the ground, doesn’t matter if water leaks, it’s never going to drip on my head. And for grosgrain pull outs in the middle of the panels, I’ll seal from the inside where the stitching comes through.
For about 6 years I washed and repaired horse blankets. Once the backing on the ripstop nylon was compromised, the silicone sprays couldn’t stand up to the job. A company made a wax that was applied from a spray can that would work longer, but would fail and leave a horse wet and misery at the time they really needed the protection. I think your methods would work for a compromised horse blanket. Now, I only do my horses blankets, your waterproofing method seems like it is an answer to the itching thought that lingered in my mind. That thought? THERE HAS GOT TO BE SOMETHING OUT THERE THAT WILL HOLD UP ON A worn out HORSE BLANKET. HECK, it seems like it would turn a stable blanket(small weave or nylon) into a waterproof turn out sheet. I just might give it a try!
This came up in my feed 7:00am this morning. I have watched lots of articles on waterproofing stuff but they looked like a lot of work with messy solvents. I think I could do this. I use taught lines alot but your instructions to make it are the best I have seen and easy for me to Explain to someone else. I hope to watch more of your articles. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us.
For people who don’t want to mess with mixing and cooking, but want to buy the perfectly tuned wax directly, Fjäll Räven sells it for their G-1000 fabric clothing. (edit: as correctly remarked by @Faenwolf, the commercial wax is overpriced, so this option requires some weighing of arguments.) To apply it to clothing, a hairdryer is enough. For pants: hang them off the back of a chair, putting plenty of clothespins along the entire length (or some other method of your choosing to close off the waist opening). Use a hair tie or some bandage to fix the hairdryer in the end of one leg, let it run for a bit to pre-heat the fabric. The air will blow through the entire pants, so after 5 minutes or so, the entire thing is at more or less the same temperature. Shut off the hairdryer. Rub on the wax directly from the block. Keep applying to your liking. It’s such an easy process that you don’t have to overkill to make sure you never have to do it again, so I suggest to start with a light application. You can always add more, but it’s hard to take some away. Let the hairdryer run for another 15min or so to allow the wax to flow deep into the fibers. For heavier fabrics, it’s a good idea to repeat this process in the opposite direction (so switch the hairdryer to the other leg). You can make similar contraptions for coats and shirts. If you use a heat gun, don’t let it exceed 100°C (boiling point of water) to avoid damage to the fabric’s fibers and to avoid chemical alteration of the oil and wax.
My wife and i built a 36″ yurt. To wax the roof, made of heavy canvas, i went on craigslist and got a free natural gas dryer, hooked it up to propane, got it hot, FIRST, and then on the low setting, tossed the panels in with the softened wax and there ya go. Ez pz. If anyone decides to go my route; 1. The dryer isnt really usable for anything else afterwards, and 2. Make sure the flame cant come into direct contact with the drum. Add sheet metal if necessary, you arent trying to signal for aid from Gondor. Use less wax than you think you’d need, inch up to the line, etc. youre an adult. Think like one.
I wasn’t even searching for this, but somehow it’s exactly what I need. I don’t live in the US and have been wanting to make a 1950s swing coat. Thing is, I live in a rain forest. Whatever coat I have NEEDS to be water proof, and i just can’t afford the pretreated fabric. Already looked up the price of the material and it looks like it’s not just a bit cheaper, it’s less than a third of the price! Now i just need to test if i can sew through the treated fabric, or if I’ll have to do it once the coat is made up. Lucky for me, you showed both options are possible. Thank you!
Nighthawkinlight: I’m using this method because it’s safer and more accessible to the average person. Nilered: I’m building this chemical today that has the fun properties of being carcinogenic, explosive, corrosive, toxic, and very volatile. I will use it to make grape soda and hot sauce. I love both sides of YouTube science
Some recipes with using liquid soap and potash alum: – Dissolve 500 g of liquid soap in 5 liters of hot water. Soak the fabric well and squeeze lightly. Without drying it, immerse it for a while in a solution of ordinary (potassium-aluminum) alum (500 g per 5 liters of water, for stronger impregnation, take 1000 g or a saturated solution). Dry without wringing. – Dissolve 450 g of laundry soap in 4.5 liters of hot water, add 250 g of laundry soda and 450 g of rosin powder. The fabric processing procedure is the same. Both of these methods are good, but the first is simpler and faster (suitable, in particular, for impregnating networks). – One of the simplest and most effective methods, which also imparts fire-resistant properties to the fabric, is impregnation with alum and lead sugar (lead acetate). In one bowl, 150 g of lead sugar is diluted in 3 liters of water, in another in the same volume – 150 g of ordinary alum (or another option – 75 g of both products for the same amount of water). Then it is necessary to settle these solutions and drain them together, separating them from the sediment. Let the mixture stand for several hours, and when the liquid becomes clear, drain it, separating it from the sediment. Soak the fabric in this liquid overnight or even a day, and then dry without wringing. Since the composition is poisonous, the dishes should be boiled well and washed. – Dissolve 400 g of alum in 2.25 liters of boiling water, add 9.125 liters of water. Soak the fabric in this solution for 24 hours, then wring it out lightly and immerse it for 5-6 hours in another solution: 225 g of lead sugar, poured with 9.
Thanks for article. I made my own camper shell for my truck out of plywood and wood. I cover it with plastic and canvas on top. I’ve used several types of fabric but not even material used for awnings is waterproof. I like regular cotton canvas sold in the big box stores the best because it stretches nicely and looks taut and neat. Now I can make it waterproof. Thanks. My favorite part was the little parrot playing with your pen.
I have some tips. Use a silicon muffin mold, the pucks will pop out easily when solid. Gulf wax is cheap but not always available, candles can be substituted. Maybe a citronella scent for mosquitoes…? Use a fork and a heat gun or hair dryer on low (high heat will scorch fabric). The fork can spread the wax into corners and save your fingers. Tight weave fabrics like denim work a bit better. Soft fabrics seem to absorb more wax and penetrate anything underneath.
I’ve had one jacket in my life that I guess had windbreaker capability and it kept me so warm even though the wind was whipping. And I’m talking a lightweight nylon jacket. Most of the jackets just let the breeze work its way through. I’m really eager to try this method out. Mainly for the heat retention characteristics but waterproof is definitely a plus. Great article! Thanks a lot.
SUBSCRIBED! Can’t wait to try this first on a sheet, then on a backpack. I have a piece from around the 1930’s that’s down to about 3’ square, & I was wondering if they just dipped it in wax. When I arrive @ a campsite that’s wet, I throw it on the ground for my gear. If it’s dry & starting to heavy Fog or rain, I throw it on the top Now I can just have a big sheet! Oh, I’ve tied taught lines for years in place; A tent or trailer load. Never thought of tying it free from a load. Thanks. You are very personable, nice class.
I’ve been wanting to make myself a raincoat, but the waterproof fabrics available are in dark, dingy colors that I don’t want to wear. Thank you for showing me a way to waterproof fabric so I can go forward with my project. I plan to sew the outer shell first, then waterproof it, and then sew in the lining by hand. That way I won’t risk waxing up my sewing machine. Very cool! Thanks again!
Great article. However, for making a tarp, I simply melted the wax into the oil at low heat in a large pot (no water bath), let it cool for about 30 minutes, and then put in a twin-size sheet a section at a time and squeezed the mixture through it. You have work quickly because the sheet will start to cool the mixture (unless, I guess, you pull it from the dryer just before?). I used surgical gloves for this and a heat gun (instead of fire) to finish and the tarp works great!
Fantastic article! I have some questions: – Is there anything special about mineral oil that makes it the go to pick for this use case? – What is the effect on the breathability of cloth? I see that you’ve coated your jacket using this stuff, which gives a clue that breathability stays OK – but do you ever run in this jacket? – You say that this method is better than the silicone method. Is this only because of the use of a carcinogenic solvent and price, or are there ways in which the end product is better too? – How does washing compare for both methods?
This is really a great finding I ever had from YouTube. The explaination is easy to understand for me as a non English speaking audience. The ingredient and tools are also easy to get beyond my imagination. Again I really feel great to find this article and this website. I wish you a greater life. Thank you. 🎉🎉😊👍👍🙏🙏
Thanks for what you do! I used a crockpot I use for my homemade hot process soap (the one I used for your project is small, and I put the heat level on high) to melt my wax and mineral oil together. I then poured the melted paraffin wax/mineral oil mixture into silicone molds, which I also use as molds for some of my homemade soaps. I did purchase a very inexpensive iron from a local big box store just to use for your project.
I’m impressed, the first version (silicone and naphtha) has lasted so long. I wonder if the wax and oil will last as long. I’ve made a Bees wax and Linseed oil solution to apply as a finish on wood. I also used it to water proof my boots. It lasted about a year on my boots. And it was NOT exposed to the elements every day.
I watched this article when it first came out and decided I would make and try this on my leather work gloves. It works so incredibly well, yes I said incredibly that put it on my work boots my canvas hunting pouches leather rifle case in fact there’s not too many things I haven’t put it on so far. This stuff is truly One of the Diamonds in the mountain of Utoob BS that I have found that actually works better than I thought it would. Hats off sir, thanks for your article.
I will be using so much I learned here – waterproofing fabric + button grommet + the slip knot! I already use the button grommet – I use rolled up tin foil for the buttons, easier to get the size I need. I guess the only thing I was left wondering was is if I made a steeply angled awning, after constant heating from the hot sun would the wax melt causing the coating to eventually navigate through the fabric, becoming thicker on the bottom section and thinner on the higher section. As for fireproofing I wonder if adding some baking soda into the wax mixture would make it fireproof as well (?) Thank you so much for this article!!
Outstanding presentation. Gonna try this on an old backpack style bookbag my kids outgrew, which I’ll convert to a haversack. One trivial observation: I believe what you’ve called a tautline hitch is actually a midshipman’s hitch; same function . Tauline is a rolling hitch on a line, midshipmen’s is a magnus hitch on a line. Again, very cool article. Love your work!
The 100% wax waxed cloth is really handy in the kitchen, usable for most things you’d use plastic wrap for, but washable and reusable and a lot less likely to get accdentally punctured. And the fact that it holds its shape is actually a plus because it means you can means you can crimp it to seal without needing rubber bands or anything like that. It’s not great if you really need an airtight seal, but most of the time you don’t really need that to protect food from contaminants. You can just roll it up to store it. Great stuff.
Just have a few questions??What is the best way to wash the fabric after you treat it with your waterproofing method? Do you have to retreat it? Also what if you were it on hot days? Does it become a problem? Thanks so much for you episode cause we live in a rainy climate and are always looking for was to make our clothes more waterproof. Currently we use goretex, but that stuff is expensive and you are limited to clothing styles!! With your method it opens many doors to to close styles that we like!! Thanks!!
Thanks for your “favorite substitute teacher, in our life after high school”.I did the silicone with (naptha unavailable for Canadians) xylene( from home depot) a year or so ago, and even though I originally used white and not the clear silicone, added some clear silicone and did a second dip, the result worked terrific. The application was a tent wall for my vantasy-glamping 10×10 summer shade tent. Added cheap dollar store tarp at the tuck-under base.And above two’ish feet, the cheap(but durable) clear vinyl, with heavy duty mesh for breathability, approximately half of the main wall height. The original 10×10 was a steal at $50.00 from Canadian tire(way discounted, when e-orders not picked up.)The attempt to make the vestibule one piece, broke that cheap 10×10, but the light long telescoping legs have a second life, as vestibule-extension supports.So ozark-trail 10×10 (second-hand); way lighter, and much better construction, lives in original 10×10s’ rolley-bag. And even though I have yet to complete the segmenting of the original construction into velcro-top attachable/removable tenfoot sections.The bestsummer-shade, works like a treeplanters cooler-tarp, is the newly available durable $20,00 silver/Orange grommet tarp.The packaging suggests even carrying corded wood, so you know unlike(cooler tarps of treeplanters), the silver side will not flake-off and disintegrate., the nice cooling side(would work equally well at retaining heat ie: when my vinyl-exterior is overlayed), you can use the cheap metal locking shackles (leave attatched) to the grommets at the upper corners, and then using the biggest s-biners(1per tent corner), instant cool shade, anywhere!
Funny. I saw the article from 2 years ago, 2 years ago and saved it. Never saw another one of your articles until this one shows up in my feed. Very nice. Pleasure to watch and useful. Thanks for the knot too. Forgot about that one. One question: doesn’t the fabric get very oily/waxy/sticky in very warm weather?
I just said to my husband “hey, he’s using my favorite knot!!!” And then you said it’s your favorite. One of my favorite uses for it had been securing furniture and whatnot 🤓 in a moving van or pickup. I’ve also used it to secure the winter cover on the pool. But the most obvious things is for tie downs on tents, and of course tarps. (I love working on knots 🪢)