Planting And Maintaining Chestnut Trees?

Chestnut trees, belonging to the beech family, Fagaceae, are stately specimens that offer ornamental value and edible nuts for home gardeners and local wildlife. They can grow in a range of climates and can be grown from seed or seedlings. The Pennsylvania Chapter of the American Chestnut Foundation (PA-TACF) provides a complete guide to growing chestnut trees, covering everything from planting to watering and fertilizing them, pest and disease prevention, harvesting, and preparing the nuts.

Chestnut trees grow from zones 4-9. If you live in a zone with a minimum of 100 frost-free days, try growing them. Sun requirements include a slightly sloping area in full sun, good quality, well-draining soil, and an acidic pH of 4.5 to 6.5. Planting in a hole big enough to accommodate the depth and size of the roots, watering in well, and removing vegetation around the base to keep in moisture and discourage weeds are essential.

Sweet chestnuts flower June-July, when long catkins appear. Sandy, loamy, well-drained, and somewhat acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.5) on gently sloping fertile land is best. Avoid heavy clay soils and review your property’s location.

Chestnuts need to be planted in a sunny spot in sandy, loamy, deep soil with good drainage. When planted in proper conditions, chestnut trees are very drought tolerant when established. Young seedlings require regular irrigation, and it is important not to fertilize a newly planted tree until its second season. Space chestnut trees 35-40 feet apart, dig a hole wide and deep enough to accommodate the root system, and wet the roots thoroughly before planting.

Water chestnuts sparingly and allow the pot to dry out between waterings to prevent nut rot before sprouting. This guide will provide all the information you need to care for and cultivate your own American chestnut tree.


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Where is the best place to plant a chestnut tree?

To ensure a healthy tree, it is essential to provide it with good soil, sunlight, and a sunny location with well-drained, fertile soil. If the soil has high clay content, use Coco-Fiber Potting Medium or add one-third peat at planting time. Consider the surrounding area, such as wires overhead, sidewalks, and other trees, to ensure the tree is easily accessible and can be monitored from the house.

Planting distances from patios, sewer lines, and water pipes are also crucial. Patios typically do not pose a problem as the soil beneath them is dry and compacted, preventing roots from growing into these areas. However, if the tree is planted too close to these items, roots may grow to them and around them, causing problems. Therefore, it is essential to choose the right planting location for your tree to ensure its longevity and growth.

Do chestnut trees have deep roots?
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Do chestnut trees have deep roots?

Planting bareroot seedlings in pots requires proper drainage and larger containers for chestnuts with deep tap roots. One seedling per pot is recommended. Soilless planting mixes provide good drainage but may contain peat moss, which can be difficult to wet. To work the water in, wet the mix in a larger container. American chestnuts prefer a high-drainage mix, such as a simple mix of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite.

If you forget to water regularly, look for a mix with more moisture, like Sun Gro Metro-Mix 560 Coir. When ready to plant, prepare seedlings indoors and plant them in the ground. Remember to consider the soil type and watering schedule when choosing a planting mix.

What is the best fertilizer for chestnut trees?
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What is the best fertilizer for chestnut trees?

A balanced time release fertilizer with minor elements is crucial for plant growth and mast production. Scotts Osmocote Plus for Outdoor/Indoor (15-9-12) is recommended for younger trees, while Espoma Holly-Tone or Tree-Tone Organic Fertilizer (14-14-14) is recommended for mature trees. Fertilizer should be applied in spring when the tree breaks dormancy and again in early summer with summer rains.

The fertilizer should be spread evenly under the entire canopy, avoiding a 5-12-inch area around the trunk to avoid nutrient burn. Mix the fertilizer in the top 1-3 inches of soil. After applying the fertilizer, water the trees for maximum absorption.

How to start a chestnut tree?

Chestnut seed requires special care, which includes keeping the seed moist, chilling it for two to four months, planting it in well-draining, acidic soil or potting medium, protecting the seed from animal depreciation, and planting seedlings at least 6 inches apart. Direct seeding in the field is expensive and may not work well for feeding wildlife. Growing seedlings in containers requires time, knowledge, and expense. Starting from seed can delay tree growth and may result in genetically inferior seedlings. After harvesting, chestnut seed requires specific care, such as proper storage, care, and culling.

How do you prepare chestnuts for planting?
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How do you prepare chestnuts for planting?

Chestnut seeds are a popular and nutritious food source, but they require special care to ensure their growth and survival. To maintain their health, chestnuts should be kept moist, packed in peat or sawdust, or kept in plastic bags or soil. They should never let the chestnuts dry out, even for a few days. If chestnut seeds are stored in the refrigerator, add moist pet food, sugar, or wet paper towels to the bags.

Chestnut seeds must be chilled at 30-45 F before germinating, either in a refrigerator, an unheated building, or underground. Chestnuts freeze and are killed at temperatures below 25 F. If chestnuts are fall-planted, plant them about 1 to 3 inches deep and mulch to protect them from freezing. If kept in an unheated building, ensure they don’t freeze. In late winter (usually February), chestnuts will start germinating in the refrigerator, with the root emerging first, followed by the shoot. Ideally, chestnuts should be planted by this time.

Chinkapin seed requires special care, as they are fall germinating and can be difficult to store for long periods of time. To protect them from animal depredation, chestnuts should be started in containers in a greenhouse. Chinkapin seedlings should grow at least 12 inches tall the first year at a spacing of 6 inches or more. Seeds can be sown in their permanent location if protected from animal depredation.

Chinkapin seedlings require special care, as they are fall germinating and can be difficult to store for long periods. To grow chinkapins, keep the seeds moist, chill them in a refrigerator, garage, or other protected place, and move them outside in the spring when temperatures no longer drop below 20 F. If planted outside, ensure they have 4-6 weeks’ growing time before any hard freeze and mulch to protect them from freezing.

Chinkapin seedlings grow slowly for the first year or two, reaching a few inches to perhaps 12 inches tall at the end of the first growing season. Container trees can be planted in their permanent location anytime, but it is usually best to do so in the spring or fall. Transplant field-grown seedlings when they are dormant, preferably in the spring.

How close to a house can you plant a chestnut tree?

The horse chestnut trees, which are characterized by their large stature and proclivity for dropping large branches, are situated in close proximity to residential structures and should be removed. To maintain a relatively small canopy, the trees can be pollarded to retain a compact, lollipop-like shape. This can be achieved by pruning the branches every three or four years. Nevertheless, this is an ongoing process that should be undertaken with caution, as it may potentially result in damage to the structure of the house.

Is chestnut fast growing?

A study indicates that chestnut seedlings planted in midstory-removal treatments will reach the same height as two-age shelterwood harvest seedlings in half the time, a finding that is relevant as shelterwood regeneration treatment is part of the Forest Service’s national management plans for the southeastern United States.

What is the life of a chestnut tree?

The horse chestnut tree, with a lifespan of up to 300 years, produces conkers enclosed in a green shell, which fall to the ground in autumn. The tree’s distinctive reddish-brown conkers emerge in the autumn, while its pinkish-white flowers blossom in May. The bark of the horse chestnut tree, which is initially pinkish-grey in colour, darkens and scalys with age.

Why are my chestnut trees turning brown?
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Why are my chestnut trees turning brown?

Horse chestnut leaf blotch is a common disease caused by the fungus Guignardia aesculi, which causes browning of leaves, particularly during wet springs. The disease is not harmful to the tree’s health, but young trees and nursery stock may suffer due to complete defoliation. Wet springs release ascospores, which require several hours of wetness to germinate and infect leaf tissue. These infections can cause additional infections during wet summer weather.

Symptoms include water-soaked areas that discolor and eventually turn brown, often with a yellow border. The leaves may become curled, distorted, dry out, and drop from the tree. Reddish spots may also appear on petioles and fruit. This disease is distinguished from drought injury by the presence of tiny black spore-producing bodies within the infected tissues.

How do you treat a chestnut tree?

The treatment of blight cankers on chestnut trees may be achieved through the application of mud packs or the protection of the tree with a biological control virus, which will prevent the fungus from causing death.

How to maintain chestnut trees?
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How to maintain chestnut trees?

The typical approach to tree irrigation is to provide sufficient water through direct application to the foliage. However, in conditions of high temperature, supplementary irrigation may be necessary during the course of the week. It is recommended that the surrounding area be mowed to a height of approximately three inches, leaving a three-foot wide circle free of grass and weeds. This practice will ensure optimal tree health and well-draining soil.


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Planting And Maintaining Chestnut Trees
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28 comments

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  • I just found your website last week. Going to dive through your articles over the next few weeks. Me and my father just planted 3 acres of grafted trees these past two weeks. We had been doing research and planning for the last 2 months. We have a sod farm here in south western Ohio and are adding in chestnuts in addition to the sod and soybeans. Planning on running our drip watering system next week and plan to add more acres each year.

  • Hi John- I love your helpful suggestions for starting my own Chinese Chestnut Trees. I live in Vermont and 30 to 40 years ago. My dad planted two trees in the yard. I am heartbroken because I will be moving in a few months and can’t take them with me because they’re too big. I’m planning on harvesting some of the chestnuts and storing them in the refrigerator in soil. Can they stay there until spring or would you suggest starting them inside in three months?Thank you! Jennifer

  • Hi John,,, another good article! I’m still having a hard time finding the exact rooting compound for my white oak acorns. (No problems starting burrs) I raked up about 40+ gallons of the W oak nuts 2 weeks ago. The nuts & some leaves were damp when i put them in 5 gallon buckets,,, I just left the buckets outside under my patio roof. I checked them yesterday & about 50% are already starting to throw out tap roots. What do you say,,,,, What works best for you? Should I try to plant them outside, under the ground now, & risk mice & munks digging them up,,,, or just put the rootings in buckets of dirt & keep them in my garage till spring? I’ll send you an email with some pictures. Like we talked about before, almost every one of these acorns already have holes drilled inside & out of them! These nut-eating maggots are BAD around here!! But, it seems, they are not hurting the integrity of the nuts! Still ‘alive’ & rooting. THANKS for all of your info. ;>)

  • Hi John, do you have any advice on keeping chestnuts from molding? Lost my whole crop in the fridge last winter. Checked and cleaned them just about every two weeks. Wore rubber gloves too. By late February they were all bad. This year I gave half of my nuts a quick bath in diluted bleach as an experiment and using the buried bucket of sand method this year instead of the fridge.

  • Very good information on how to grow a commercial chestnut orchard. Growing American Chestnuts, the tree that has been almost entirely wiped out by the blight brought to the US in the early 1900’s, by Chinese chestnut trees, is an entirely different subject. In fact, if you want to grow pure American Chestnut trees, as part of the restoration effort, planting any Chinese chestnut trees, or hybrids like the Dunstan, is a really bad idea. American Chestnut trees are suitable for hardwood forests and don’t make a good orchard tree. American Chestnut trees produce the absolute best fall food source for wildlife in the Eastern US.

  • Can’t remember which big tree you were showing but it was the one with a “second tree” coming out near the trunk. That “second tree” is sucking the life away from the first. Hence the word “suckers” which they are called. Prob would be 1/3 bigger if you get it off of it. I’ve been considering planting some of these. Can’t wait to keep seeing the progress updates and if you have an issues with them (prob burrs, disease, etc)

  • ENJOYED YOUR POST TODAY…I GREW UP IN A GROVE OF CHESTNUT TREES IN THE FORTY’S! The spikes on them were a killer when we were bare foot all of the time…I wish I could remember more about what we did with then as a kid..probably sat and watch a car drive over them and hear them POP!!!! Maybe even had a Chestnut sale thinking the neighbors would buy them…anyway it’s been fun perusal you talk about the growth part as I doubt I never knew that…Thanks Evan….from Helena Montana…

  • I bought a house years ago and there were 3 full grown of these trees in back yard close to the house. Liked the nuts but it was horrible dealing with the burrs and a lot of work to remove them so the pets and our feet didn’t get damaged. We finally cut them down after a trip to the vet for 2 cats with paw damage and all of us coming in contact with the burrs on the ground even months after they fall off the trees. Definitely would have them again only never near the house or area where kids would like to play. Your place is looking so nice love the fall colors starting and the drone shots too. Susan

  • Great share. I’ll have to order some to add to my property. Try pawpaws at your place, I started those plus English walnuts and hickory nuts. You can find similar tubes (different style but same function) in the wine-grape industry. Really need to protect the trees against deer and rabbits. Apparently chestnut trees were a big people food staple and cash crop in Appelatcha — so they are not just deer fodder.

  • Thanks for sharing Evan, looks like they have taken root and will produce when they are allowed to spread out and grow. I understand about having to protect them from the animals until they are big enough to take care of their self. Can’t wait to see a bunch of the all full blown growing and producing Nuts. Stay safe and keep up the great articles. Fred.

  • Your concern for the trees to be environmentally friendly to animals especially deer is admirable. I assume you have a bit of an ulterior motive (do I see venison dinners in the future?) Also, the pictures showing the pond are great. The pond looks almost back to normal. How about the fish? Have you restocked it?

  • I bought seeds from chestnut ridge and planted home-grown seedlings in 2015 and 2016. In 2017 and 2018 seedlings from chestnut hill were planted. The 2015 losses were significant. Adding drip irrigation made a world of different in survival rate. My growing zone is 8, which is quite warm. My orchard currently has 60 trees. First harvest in 2020 – not many burs. 2021 harvest, 8 of 60 trees produced 25 pounds of nuts. This year 27 of 60 trees produced 78 pounds of nuts. There are 35 pounds of unopened burs that I will cast into the forest for the wild animals and hopefully self-seed. I gave last year’s harvest to the Georgia Nursery but haven’t heard of their germination rate. I doubt that it was very good because they said that they would germinate them in a 6-inch trench like they do pine trees. I gave them references of successful growers like Chestnut Ridge and Hill and YouTube articles like John Sangl”s. Why learn from others, when you are a government expert, right? I don’t think they stratified them either.

  • JudithB We planted an Almond and 2 pecans along with apples, plums and peaches our first year. I want to plant some Hazelnut bushes soon, but planting apples and figs this year. Putting in new blackberries, Concord grapes and blueberries this year too. The deer seem to want to eat everything I plant unless it is poisonous!

  • Hello. I wonder, What state are you in? I’ve started all kinds of nut trees from seed, but my chestnuts keep molding when hardening off in the fridge!? I dry them out in the sun for 2-3 weeks before bagging them up in peatmoss,,, but I never have them root while in the fridge,,, just mold. What brand of peatmoss do you use? Is it treated for mold? (NE Ohio) I have better luck when I triple chop up oak leaves, & mix the chestnuts in a 5 gal bucket. Leave the 5 gallon bucket full outside in the garage for the winter. After 3 months, I place the buckets of nuts down the 65* cellar & they all start rooting, without any molding. I think, The tannins in the leaves prevents mold. While Producing nuts,,,,, Then the Chestnut Weevil will come,,, hatch out of the ground like a Japanese Beetle, fly up, lay a million eggs on the catkins, & destroy all of the growing nuts!! Just like a house fly on a dead possum! One year, before I started preventative measures, I had 2-4 grubs/ maggots in each & every nut, & that’s before they hit the ground! & at least one maggot in every white oak nut that fell. & I had 100’s of gallons of white oak & burr oak nuts that I raked up, hoping to harvest. Thousands of maggots came eating their way out,, totally destroying the nuts. Have Fun,,,,, ;>)

  • I had planted hazelnut trees back in 2017. In the last year or so they’ve been producing. But the squirrels won’t leave them alone!! Stealing lots of them. But those little squirrels actually compensated me with walnut trees by squirreling away some walnuts….forgetting about them and I now have 2 small walnut trees on the go. But yeah, they’ll likely steal those nuts one day too!

  • Have you ever looked into all the different grafted varieties that are out there? There are trees that produce high quality, big nuts that drop early (Like ‘Jenny’) Trees that produce equally nice nuts that drop mid season (‘Qing’) and others that drop late (‘Black Satin’) We have been growing chestnuts for about 30 years now, and we started out with seedlings too and eventually ended up grafting 95% of them to something bigger and better.

  • In Appalachia, these trees supported a big part of thee economy. They sold thee chestnuts,ate them, and fattened up hogs on chestnut . And let me tell ya. If you’ve ever tried pork fattened out on chestnuts,you’ll flip. Lol. God bless. And hurray for bringing back thee chestnut. It is truly thee best lumber you can get.

  • I don’t know if they would grow in my area, but I would love to support your dream of repopulating these trees. I live in southern New Mexico. We don’t have the rain that it looks like you do, but I do have an excellent well. I currently have 17 pecan trees that are doing very well. I think these would be an excellent addition to my land. I don’t have the talent to sprout these trees but I do have a passion for growing trees from bare root or potted. If you sell them I would be interested in 10 to 20.

  • We just moved to an older home that has a chestnut tree in the yard, with burrs. How should they be stored and do they have to be cooked before eating or just dry a little like pecans? I’m not far South of Memphis, TN and Chestnut trees are not common around here, it’s the first one we’ve actually ever seen! Thanks for your help!

  • Buy the bigger bamboo rods from am Leonard in Ohio. Get the 3/4″ 7’ long or whatever they offer. When winter is coming to an end. Just push them in the ground a lil bit deeper. They rot off at ground level every winter. The small ones from Lowe’s are just to small. The big ones are perfect and am Leonard sells the best tree tubes i have found. Corrugated edge plant based polymer. Trust me been through this for years.

  • What kind of soil do you have ? I have 40 trees and I don’t have ideal soil. It’s mostly a clay type soil. The Dunstan chestnut trees being half Chinese seem to do ok in wetter soil if you will. They do grow better in a sandy dry soil . Chestnut trees don’t like wet feet. Thanks for the article, please update us on your orchard.

  • I’ve found that you need to cage your trees or the deer will destroy them rubbing their velvet off their antlers. I had three destroyed in the last week that way before I got the cages around the rest of them. Leave those tubes on until you are ready to put cages around the trees. I have several trees I planted about four years ago that are starting to produce chestnuts. These are fast growing trees and they can get very large.

  • Your going to have Buck Deer rubbing their antlers on the chestnut trees, maby a three post support wire mesh to keep them off your trees, your nickle-your call. Good watch. My brother&2-sisters & myself share whats left of a section Century farm. Have deer-cougar-elk-bear, fisher coyote-fox-turkey- which we see every so often. Best crop on the place was christmas trees, that my grandfather & uncle raised, w/Noble the top money maker.

  • Thanks Evan!!! We happen to end up planting trees or something garden related on my wife’s birthday right after valentines day every year .. this year, due to all the money being spent getting our new 40 acre property ready to move into, we weren’t going to have any budget for anything like trees… we just don’t got it. You just gave us our next February planting 💪👊🤘 We can afford those!! Thanks!!! Check us out if you want to see if we follow thru 😉

  • You want to pull those T posts before the chestnut roots get tangled. Using T posts for trees, generally speaking is a bad idea. Use hardwood stakes or heavier bamboo. You’re not going to have fertilized nuts until you get another tree in the vicinity that blooms. By the way TACF has investigated the genetics of Dunstan’s and they are ~90% Chinese genetics.

  • You have not idea the treasure you have there, at this times when they are implementing a socialism system, you have a survival way, not just for you, but please find out about the cuttings, you can sell cutting and they are easy to root in two months and produce fruit instantly as the cuttings would be 5 years old as well, they would not have to wait. IWhere are you? Canada or USA? GOd bless! this was a very useful article!

  • i would like you to consider the risk of a mono culture forest area like you are planting. There are several other nut trees native to Illinois, one might consider to create to attract and view wild life such as any other nut trees and sawtooth oaks. you might also consider that ground cover clover and peanuts will attract a wider variety of wildlife, including fox, deer, raccoons, squires, turkey, pheasants, song birds and more, all fun to watch. with this mono culture you now have, the wildlife will need to move off your land at times, because there is only food for them a part of the year. planting some fruit trees, and berry canes along the perimeter will provide food year round, and hold the wild life. Now you are planting in an orchard spaced set up which is not as pleasing to the human eye as would a mixed spacing area provide . if you are doing this strictly as an orchard, that is one thing. However you mention looking forward to gazing out into the distance and enjoy looking at the wild life, a mixed variety of species and variety of distance between trees might be worth your consideration.

  • Horrible mistake and a wasted opportunity. You did not plant American chestnuts. You planted an inferior hybrid substitute. You could have gotten blight resistant actual American chestnut seeds. There is a large cottage industry bringing back the original chestnut that has been successfully working on the blight problem for decades. Your trees and the nuts they produce will look nothing like the original. They will also not grow as tall. Your instincts are correct, but don’t brag about restoring the American chestnut. You haven’t.