After a newly seeded fescue lawn is completed, it is recommended to water three times a day every day of the week, but only long enough each time to keep the seed wet. Turn off the water as soon as you begin to see it pool on the surface because watering to the point of creating runoff can shift or flood your new seed. The most important and most expensive investment in a newly seeded fescue lawn during a typical season is usually aeration and seeding. In the Richmond suburbs of Virginia, fescue lawns are usually aerated and seeded in the early fall when air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Fescue lawns generally require an inch of water per square foot, weekly. However, the exact amount your fescue grass will need depends on the type, climate, and soil drainage.
To water new lawn areas correctly after fall seeding is vital for successful grass seed germination and maturation. Before planting, make sure that your ground is aerated and healthy enough to support the new grass. In some cases, this may require core preparation. Watering new grass seed for 5 to 10 minutes immediately after planting to gently moisten the first several inches of soil. Set a watering schedule: water your fescue grass deeply once or twice a week, aiming for around an inch of water per week, from rainfall or irrigation. Water early in the morning so the blades dry out.
Tall fescue lawns need about 1 to 1¼ inches of water a week, whether provided by you or mother nature. If your grass goes dormant in the summer, water it with a low-maintenance lawn grass option. The best time to water fescue is early in the morning to prevent excessive evaporation and ensure your yard doesn’t stay wet for too long. A fescue lawn will need about an inch of water every 7-10 days, whether from rain or irrigation. Try to water deeply and infrequently, targeting 1″ per week either on one day or 0.5″ on two separate days early in the morning.
📹 When To MOW, WATER, FERTILIZE New Lawns // FIRST MOW on Tall Fescue
You have a new lawn after completing the renovation steps…what’s next? Today I answer when to mow after renovation, how to …
When should I level my fescue lawn?
Different types of grass have different needs and conditions, so the best time to level your lawn may vary. Cool-season grasses like bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescue should be leveled in late summer or early fall when temperatures are cooler and more moisture is present, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda grass and St. Augustine should be leveled in spring when temperatures start to warm and days become longer. Other factors like drought and soil conditions should also be considered before leveling a lawn.
If you have existing pest or disease problems, they need to be treated before leveling. Ensure that the soil is dry enough before leveling to avoid problems. Understanding the needs of your grass and considering existing conditions can optimize the timing for leveling your lawn, maximizing the benefits of this landscaping task.
Can you lay sod over existing grass?
Laying sod over existing grass is not recommended for good results as it can cause the roots of the sod to struggle to make contact with the soil, making it harder to take root and potentially causing it to die. To avoid this, ensure the roots are in contact with the soil by removing the old lawn before laying down the sod.
Another issue with laying sod over existing grass is that it increases the chances of the sod dying, especially if there is a thick layer of thatch on the old lawn. This can prevent the new sod from getting the nutrients it needs to survive. To avoid this, ensure the sod is making direct contact with the soil below.
New sod has different drainage needs compared to established lawns, and without preparing the soil first, the new sod may compete with the existing turf for water, leading to drainage problems and potentially killing it. To avoid this, ensure the soil is well-prepared by removing any obstacles to drainage, such as rocks or roots.
What is the best watering schedule for tall fescue?
Tall fescue requires 1 inch of water every week, ideally not all at once. Water until the soil is wet to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, checking for proper saturation with a screwdriver. Sandy soils require more frequent watering, while clay soils absorb water slowly. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce problems later in the summer. Watering between 2 a. m. and 8 a. m. decreases the incidence of certain diseases. Preemergence herbicides can be applied to control crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail, typically applied in early March.
Insect control involves noting areas with white grub activity and planning a preventive application in the following spring or early summer. Specific timing will depend on the species, so plan to make an application when adult flight is at its peak.
Can I mix fine fescue with tall fescue?
Tall fescue is distinguished by its broader leaves and superior drought and heat tolerance, whereas fine fescue is characterized by its needle-like leaves and enhanced performance in shaded environments. In order to achieve the optimal results by combining the best characteristics of both grass types, it is recommended to incorporate a mixture of tall fescue and fine fescue into the lawn.
Do I need to remove old grass before laying new turf?
In order to ensure the optimal installation of new turf, it is essential to first remove the existing grass from the lawn. Additionally, it is crucial to avoid laying the turf on the existing grass, as this may impede the growth and establishment of the new turf. This will impede the establishment of the new turf, which may in turn facilitate the growth of weeds. It is of the utmost importance to identify the underlying cause of the deterioration of the lawn in order to prevent further decline over time. It is recommended that the turf be laid as soon as it is delivered, in order to avoid any potential issues.
Will new sod grow on top of grass?
Laying sod over existing grass is not a safe shortcut as it can kill the new sod if it doesn’t make contact with dirt. The new sod needs to establish roots in the soil to take advantage of the water and nutrients there. Some people may consider laying new sod over existing grass or doing patches instead of installing a new lawn. However, it’s important to ensure the new sod is properly rooted and takes advantage of the soil’s water and nutrients.
How long does new turf take to root?
When can I walk on my new lawn? The best time to walk on a lawn depends on the time of year. In spring and summer, grass grows rapidly, causing roots to rot quickly. In winter, growth slows down, but in summer, it’s essential to mow the lawn before it gets too long. Mowing should start as soon as the turf sticks to the soil, as long as it’s well anchored by roots. If the lawn is left to grow too long, it will look sparse and stalky, taking time to recover and thicken.
For the first cut, ensure the mower is set at a height to just top the grass. Never remove more than 25 of the total plant to prevent stress and reduce the quantity of clippings. Mow at least twice weekly during late spring, once a week during summer (if dry), and early autumn, and approximately every ten days in mid to late autumn. This should be flexible to suit our varied weather conditions.
Mowers should be well-maintained and sharp, as improper maintenance can damage the grass and leave it frayed at the ends, making the lawn unsightly.
What are the best conditions for tall fescue to grow?
Tall fescue seed requires soil temperatures between 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit for germination and root development. These temperatures are similar to fall and spring air temperatures of 68-77 F. Timing seeding to these conditions allows for natural advantages, allowing the seed to start strong before seasonal stresses. Fall is the ideal time for seeding or overseeing tall fescue lawns, as it provides a strong start.
What is the difference between tall fescue and fescue?
Fescue grasses, including chewings, creeping red, and hard fescues, are classified as fine fescues due to their fine leaves. Turf-type tall fescue, with wider leaves, is often found in lawn grass seed blends due to its versatility. Fescue grasses offer several benefits, including fast germination rates, dense leaf textures, and ability to grow well in poor soil conditions like rocky, clay, and sandy soils. They require less nitrogen fertilizer than other grass varieties, go dormant during summer heatwaves, and come out of dormancy when rain and cooler temperatures arrive.
Turf-type tall fescue grasses quickly grow in spring and maintain color through late fall, and develop deep root systems that help them survive drought and winter. They can acclimate to wet soils in shady spots and tolerate cold winter temperatures well. Creeping red fescue prefers drier soil, while other fine fescues can tolerate moist soil in shady areas.
What are the best conditions for fescue grass?
Tall fescue seeds thrive best in cooler soil and air temperatures in late summer to early fall and early spring. Newly seeded turf-type tall fescue follows the same timing for optimal natural growth. Soil temperatures near 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit are necessary for thorough germination and strong root development. Timing seeding to coincide with these conditions in the growing region allows for natural advantages, allowing tall fescue seed to get off to a strong start before seasonal stresses of winter or summer arrive.
What time should I water fescue sod?
To maintain a healthy turf, water new sod twice daily, in the morning and afternoon, until the soil is saturated but not puddling. Morning watering is ideal for lower wind speeds and less water loss due to evaporation. Watering in the evening is discouraged as it can promote disease and fungus. Once the sod has started rooting, irrigating deeply and infrequently encourages deep roots, making the turf more drought-tolerant. Proper watering techniques are essential.
📹 3 Phases To Watering New Grass Seeds – How To Do It Properly
Ever asked yourself how to water after new grass seed has been put down? My favourite hose end sprayer attachment: …
Sharpening blades …. every time I did that, and I did try to keep the original angle, the cut quality suffered. I ended up just getting new original blades and using as is, without sharpening. What I am testing today (same mower as yours) is checking the RPMs and possibly increasing them. Learned a nice trick on you tube where after adjustment of governor spring, everyone says cut quality became awesome. Many articles on youtube on how to adjust the governor and Grass Daddy had a article on it as well.
Thank you thank you thank you! I’m coming up on week 4 after germination and these are the questions I had. I used Pete’s TTTF and I’m amazed at the dark green and the germination rate. I am so thankful for the lawn care community on YouTube! This spring I am ordering a Lawn Box and I am about to order the candle to have over the winter here in KY! Thanks again for what you do!
I have spent more money and time on my lawn this past year to improve it. Total is ~$600 so far, I was shocked to see that. Not sure what a lawn service costs, but doing it yourself gives way more satisfaction. Somedays just stare at it for a few minutes. Recent dethatch and overseed. Used Scott’s Thick R Lawn. 5 weeks later pretty thick, even though i have not been able to spot a single blade of new grass. I even added more seed for front and sides, maybe just too dense? I keep it around 3.25 inches now. I bought the coated seeds, maybe go uncoated next time.
Do you have any friends with a lot of trees on their property? I have a ton and it’s very difficult this time of year to overseed or just seed, because of the amount of leaves that fall. I don’t know if I should try and get them up with a lawn sweeper (seems not like a good idea, because of the new sprouts) or to just side discharge them. It’s just difficult all around to grow grass with so many. I’d love it if you did a segment on their property or something showing how they get their grass growing or just helping them get it going. This is my second season here at my house, but the first I’m actually seeding and fertilizing.
My dog can’t wait to get back to marking the whole yard. But I’m going to fill in some gaps this weekend, so he has to wait another couple of weeks. I finally just built some portable ones out of cedar pickets and 2x4s It looks like I’m setting my yard for agility course. lol I’m glad he’s on the small/medium side. 3 weeks ago, we had that hot dry week when the fires hit my town and then last week we had massive downpours. Back in the 80s this week. Rains will start again next week. That’s the PNW for ya. Perfect grass growing season though.
I don’t know what I would do without your website. I have learned so much. Here in northwestern Illinois it is supposed to get down to 37 degrees overnight. I have some very young seedlings that I’m worried about. Do you think I should cover it? It’s a couple of 15×20 areas In front of the house and bigger in the back. I’m afraid they still die.
Hi guys, i need some advice. I will mow my new lawn for the first time. I have a lots of grass free places (bald spots). What should i do first. Overseed -> Mow -> put some fertilizer -> watter. Or some different order? Thank you very much for Advice. And i must write. My soil is hard as ****. Lots of sunshine and i have cracks everywhere. Thx
I dropped the SS1000 TTTF seeds on Sept 27. It’s 9 days old now. 2 days ago and the week before it, air temp was averaging 50f. Soil temp was higher like 53f. I haven’t seen any germinations until today. Temp yesterday was above 60s, WOOHOO! Today’s temp was above 70s! I’m just not sure if the young TTTF grass will survive our winter since I was thinking it might not be able to grow deeper roots. What are your thoughts? We always experience subzero temps in January and February. Somewhere between -10F and -20F is normal in our area.
Been a fan for a while now, but if there’s one thing that always puts the icing on the cake with your articles is how you introduce me to some new songs! The Ben Rector song is going to be on my playlist for a while. Keep up the great work. You and Connor have definitely been an inspiration to me in getting really serious with my yard.
I recently did a complete lawn renovation in Maryland with Tall Fescue. Unfortunately, I have Quack Grass coming up in the new grass and I’m very frustrated. I have been researching ways to try to control or eradicate the persistent weed and it looks to be a daunting task. Do you have any suggestions how to kill off or at least control it in a newly seeded lawn without killing the new grass? It is late September so I have limited time to make a dent in it this Fall. I just cut the new grass for the first time so I am thinking about putting down some more starter fertilizer and overseeding some of the thinner areas to try to thicken up the new grass as much as possible heading into the Winter. Hoping to thicken up the tall fescue to squeeze out the Quack Grass for the Spring and Summer of 2022.
I think your yard is a great opportunity to collaborate with Pete at GCI. He is a master at tall turf and is getting into reel mowing which you have a great handle on ( better than the master of mustaches). Great article! As a professional lawn care provider you have taught me a lot on sissy grass maintenance! Thanks!
Nice clear information. You’ve inspired me to improve my lawn here in the south of Sweden. Mine still needs work next spring but I’m happy with all my work for now. October starts here it’s going to get colder and the grass will rest and me too,. I am still mowing now mind you. Keep up with your excellent articles Ryan.
Question: What are your thoughts on dormant seeding? I reseeded my lawn 3 weeks ago (in Des Moines) and it’s coming in pretty well. There are definitely some thinner spots that will need to be overseeded, but I think it’s getting too late in the season here to overseed now. Do you think it’s better to seed just before it starts snowing and let the seed lay dormant throughout the winter months, or is it better to wait until next spring to fill in the spots that need to be overseeded? Thanks!
Hello Ryan, I live in upstate NY. I have done 3 applications for weed control since spring. I need to do a few things, and wonder what order to do it in? Fall Feed/fertilizer, dethatch, overseed. ( I bought an electric dethatcher you used a while ago, haven’t used it yet) Love your articles, Thank you!
Great info. I only have a zero turn mower with a side discharge. I am about 1 1/2 weeks into a dethatching, aerating, and overseeding with Tractor Supply Kentucky Bluegrass 31 coated. I put down a starter fertilizer about a week after seeding. Before doing all this I cut the lawn down to 2 1/2 inches. We live in western NJ near PA. The grass is probably around 4 inches or so now. Would you consider cutting it now and cut it down to 2 1/2 again?
Hey Ryan, what advice would you have for high traffic lawns? My kids (and the neighbour kids) play on our front yard all the time – which is great! But also means things like a full renovation are kinda out of the question. Also, there’s foot traffic on it every day, so some areas get warn down pretty good. What kind of advice would you give for maintaining a lawn in that situation?
I live in the midwest. It is end of October and my zoysia lawn appears to be dormant. Can I still put down a pre-emergent now to help prevent any winter weeds and weeds coming in the Spring. Temps have been anywhere from the 40’s to 50’s right now and will probably be colder as we get further into Nov.
I would appreciate an advice. I made new turf 2 weeks ago, and despite not ideal weather conditions the germination is doing good. Granted I now see some bare spots here and there but the offsprings in general are between 3-5cm (1.1/4″ to 2″). The grass seeds were tall fescue mix with some bluegrass and lolium parene(barenbrug dry and strong). I plan to throw some seeds again where I see needs for it, but what baffles me is mowing time? Should I wait for all grass to germinate despite some of it being taller and denser than other parts, or just mow it when it reach 4″? Another problem is that I have only a trimmer :/ I know it isnt recommended to mow with grass eater at the beggining, but cant buy new mower now. Is it okay to use the pruning cutter which I have as part of my trimmer to try and mow it first few times? Thank you
I know ur upset about ur blue grass but I think this is a great opportunity for you to show ppl what havin different varieties of grass i think it’s awesome to see blue in the front and fescue in the back and maybe some Bermuda in the future so you can show everyone all varieties of grass. by the way I’m a fescue guy and I’m excited to see what the future holds for ur backyard so keep up the great content and info for all of us
Just killed off my lawn with roundup and removed. New Loam and used tenacity and Jonathan green sod and seed fert and black beauty seed. I didn’t topover with peat moss, should I have raked in the seed at all where it’s getting chilly here in Massachusetts? I seeded after a new irrigation was installed I’m on day 4 after seeding. Also, I’m being told I should cover with straw…really don’t want to. Suggestions???
Looks great! Not so bad of a mistake after all. As always, nice work. What type of fertilizer do you recommend for the fall on an already established lawn? Just moved from the country into a house in a sub with irrigation. I would only fertilize and spot spray weeds at my old house but was at the mercy of Mother Nature for irrigation so it was pretty toasted most summers. Now that I’m here I want to get my game in order and get the yard in better shape.
I don’t know if this is true or not but I started seed on September 15. It’s a fescue blend and I live in Wisconsin. I was told bye a farmer that I shouldn’t cut it at all this year cause the first cut will cut off the nutrients and then the grass will have to grow back but it might not have enough time to grow back because usually we get a frost around the third week of October. Not sure if that’s true but I’m going to try it
Hey Ryan I’m always perusal your articles and your lawn looks so good I envy it lol I just bought a house and lawn needs a lot of tlc a lot of weeds and different types of grass i live in Pennsylvania zone 1 on your map lol and was wondering what type of grass you recommend I use for reseeding I just sprayed my lawn with tenacity and a lot of the weeds are dying then I was thinking of doing a dethatching and then aeration and reseeding any recommendations and advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am putting overseed and fertilizer next week. Doing a dethatch done on Monday or Tuesday. Is this ok to do? I also have nitrogen that I found can I do that as well? I was told to cut and bag it down to two inches. I just cut it last week to 3 for the first time this year. Also what kind of seed do you recommend for north west Ohio?
Must be nice to be able to use all the sprays you’re allowed to use. Live in Ontario, Canada. Best thing we have here is borax lol. You can easily tell which lawns have been sprayed with products from the States. We don’t even have a product here to get rid of dandelions! Have to hand pick everything. Got creeping charlie in Ontario? That stuff is like herpes, once you’ve got it you ain’t getting rid of it.