This video provides a comprehensive guide on how to waterproof a deck, prevent water from pooling, maintain it, and determine the overall cost of waterproofing. It covers three types of railings: traditional, stairs, and removable. To clean any dirt accumulated on the wood, use 50 grit sandpaper for a smooth finish. If the cedar has been exposed to moisture, apply a wood waterproofing material as per manufacturer’s instructions.
To build a deck railing, determine the number of posts needed, cut the wood to size, and install the posts. Mark the wood species you choose for your deck railing, which will impact its longevity and appearance. Popular wood options for outdoor decks include fir, pressure-treated wood, cedar, and redwood. The Western Red Cedar Lumber Association recommends either a water-repellent preservative or an elastomeric coating.
Cedar decking must be completely dry to absorb stain, oil, or other finish. It can take up to two weeks for wet cedar to dry out completely. Wash the deck with a soft brush and mild dish detergent and seal it with Thompson water sealer in the green can every 4-5 years. Sweep regularly to help the deck dry faster and perform visual inspections regularly.
Sealing your deck is essential to keep it safe from water damage, rot, and insects. Stain enhances the deck’s beauty while offering UV protection. While there is no way to 100% waterproof a wood deck, best practices like annually resealing exterior wood or installing flashing tape can extend its life.
📹 The Best Way To Stain Your Deck PERIOD!!!!
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How to stop cedar from turning grey?
To prevent cedar fence greying, apply a high-quality wood sealant or finish to protect it from UV radiation and moisture, preserving its natural color for a longer period. Regularly clean the fence to remove dirt and grime, using a gentle scrub with mild soap and water. Provide shade or cover to reduce direct sunlight exposure, slowing down the greying process. Greying is a natural process driven by exposure to elements, and understanding why cedar fences turn grey and taking appropriate steps to protect or embrace the change can help make the most of this natural transformation in your outdoor space. The charm of a cedar fence, whether in its original color or aged, adds character and personality to your home’s exterior.
Can I use teak oil on cedar?
Linseed oil is the preferred oil for cedar, providing a luxurious shine without overly glossy appearance. Teak oil, a runner-up, contains linseed or tung oil, mineral spirits, resins, and varnish, providing a subtle honey tinge. Cumaru, a high-density hardwood used for decking, is difficult to cut but has an impressive lifespan. Its deep-red hue fades to silver if left unprotected. Allowing cumaru to age for at least six weeks before applying oil.
Ipe oil is designed specifically for cumaru, retaining its natural appearance and giving it a rich luster. It penetrates deeply, adding strength and creating a barrier against the elements, ensuring cumaru remains beautiful for years to come.
How to seal cedar without changing color outdoor?
To maintain the beauty and longevity of your cedar wood furniture, use two coats of clear stain. The first coat acts as a sealant, protecting the wood from the elements, while the second coat acts as a sealant and water repellant. Apply the stain thinly and let it dry for 30 minutes before applying the second coat. Avoid painting or staining cedar wood, as paint and stain cannot penetrate it. Use a paintbrush for stain application. Avoid using teak or linseed oil on outdoor cedar furniture, as they can accumulate dirt and cause faster deterioration, especially in cold weather.
Ensure your cedarwood is preservative-treated to prevent decay and damage to the floor. Preservatives like para-phenylenediamine or cresol can be used, or a natural preservative can be combined with wax and oil. Cedarwood is a strong and long-lasting material suitable for various home sections.
What is the best way to seal a cedar deck?
CUTEK is a recommended timber oil for western red cedar decking, offering protection and enhancing its natural beauty. It diffuses deeply into the wood, repelling moisture and maintaining structural integrity. It requires two coats and can be left transparent or added with a color for UV protection. Topical deck finishing products create a film on the deck surface, but CUTEK infuses the wood with stabilizing oils, preventing flaking and peeling.
When choosing a finish, consider the time commitment, climatic conditions, and the amount of time it takes for staining to dry. Finishing on a hot day allows deck boards to absorb the finish faster and dry in less time. Overall, CUTEK is a more effective and long-lasting option for cedar decking.
What can I use to waterproof cedar?
Preservatives like para-phenylenediamine or cresol are essential for protecting cedar wood. A blend of wax and oils can also enhance its durability. Outdoor projects require preservative treatment due to their susceptibility to weather elements. Prioritizing preservative-treated options ensures resistance against rot, decay, and pest invasions. Always check the preservative label to confirm its purpose. This combination not only prolongs the wood’s life but also enhances its durability.
Should you stain or seal cedar?
Staining or sealing your cedar fence is crucial to ensure its longevity and beauty. Wood fences are a significant investment in your home’s value, but they can fade over time. To preserve the wood’s beauty and keep your fence looking alive, it is recommended to repeat the seal/stain process every 3-4 years. This process helps maintain the fence’s strength and beauty, ensuring its longevity and longevity.
What is the best finish to protect cedar?
Lacquers are ideal for applying to cedar surfaces due to their fast drying properties. They should be applied with an air-less sprayer and sanded with the grain between coats for best results. High gloss lacquer is recommended for optimum durability, followed by matte or satin lacquer. A final coat of wax on smooth cedar adds a rich sheen. Clear varnish is recommended for smooth surfaces, adding a richer, darker tone. Two coats are acceptable for most areas, but additional coats are recommended for kitchen and bathroom use.
Varnish-finished surfaces can be cleaned, scrubbed, or wiped with thinners. Varnish stains are varnishes with color pigment added, available in a variety of tones and tints. Paint is not a suitable interior finishing medium for cedar due to its inherent beauty.
Will cedar turn grey if sealed?
To preserve the original color of your cedar fence, you can take several steps. First, apply a high-quality wood sealant or finish to protect it from UV radiation and moisture, preserving its natural color for a longer period. Second, regularly clean your fence to remove dirt and grime that contributes to greying. A gentle scrub with mild soap and water followed by a rinse can help. Third, provide shade or cover to reduce direct sunlight exposure.
Greying is a natural process driven by exposure to the elements, and understanding why cedar fences turn grey and taking appropriate steps to protect or embrace the change can help you make the most of this natural transformation in your outdoor space. The charm of a cedar fence, whether in its original color or aged, adds character and personality to your home’s exterior.
What is the best way to secure cedar decking?
Western Red Cedar can be nailed using hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, and stainless steel nails, which are corrosion-resistant and suitable for this material. Electroplated nails, copper nails, and copper nails should not be used as they can rust, disintegrate, and react negatively with cedar’s natural preservative oils. Stainless steel is the most widely used and economical choice. To fasten decking, use 3″ (10d) nails for 2″ and 2-1/2″ (64 mm) thickness, and 8d nails for 1-1/4″ (32 mm) thickness. For wider decking, use two nails per joist. Thin shanked nails with blunt points are recommended to prevent splitting of wood.
Does cedar need to be waterproofed?
Sealing or staining a cedar deck is not necessary, but it is recommended if you don’t have time to properly ventilate your deck after every rain shower or live in areas with frequent wet and humid weather. Cedarwood, while visually stunning, will turn gray as it ages, which can be visually displeasing. If you prefer a different color, stain it in the desired color. Use a penetrating stain to prevent film formation, which can peel or crack over time. A rough cedar deck can be a splinter hazard, so it’s crucial to perform a visual inspection at least once a year.
Should you sand cedar before sealing?
To seal a cedar fence, start by cleaning it thoroughly to remove dirt, dust, mold, mildew, and any existing sealant or stain. Sand the rough or splintered wood surface with fine-grit sandpaper for a smoother finish. If unsure if the fence needs sealing, sprinkle water on it and if it absorbs, apply the sealant. For best results, stir or shake the sealant according to the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it using a paintbrush or sprayer, following the wood grain for even coverage. This process ensures a smooth and long-lasting fence.
📹 How To Protect Your Deck | Never Sand Again!
Today I’m showing you how to protect your deck. If you’re thinking about staining your deck, make sure to WATCH THIS first.
I bought a house which had a stained wooden deck and the floor stain had mostly worn off with a patchy look! No stain I ever saw on any wooden deck floor ever held up for more than a couple of years at most! The rails were mostly still stained. I used a pressure washer to carefully remove 95% of the remaining stain on the deck floor and never stained it again but did stain the rails after carefully pressure cleaning them. Two coats lasted three years and only about 10 % flaked off! Still had a gallon of the same colour stain and cleaned it, then put a new coat of stain on it. The deck is now 17 years old! When it has rotted out, I will replace it with 1.5 x 1.5 ‘ concrete patio slabs!! If you clean and stain your deck every couple of years, the stain alone will cost a few hundred dollars including the brushes, rollers, clean up and that’s with you doing all the work! I am now convinced all that effort and money significantly extends the life of it! Over its life of 20-25 years you will have spent thousands! Concrete will likely out live this retired man and very little maintenance required! Don’t care if the neighbours don’t approve!!
Just over 20 years ago I used a garden sprayer to apply Thompson’Water Seal to my new deck. Unfortunately after one winter the surface became black as if moisture was trapped beneath the sealer and created mold. I wasn’t aware of penetrating seal back then so ever since I just power washed my deck every spring. It’s basically solid except where we have built in planters. The deck boards ( 2×6 pressure treated lumber) beneath and adjacent to the planters have rotted through due to continuous dampness from watering the flowers. Next DIY project replacing all my deck boards. Thanks for the help Jeff. Love your work!
Ah, I really wish the previous homeowner had known all this! We moved in in 2019 and they had just stained the deck with opaque stain before putting the house on the market. The next year, the deck was peeling and looked ghastly! All because they didn’t prep it properly,… at least they were consistent. They also painted the kitchen cabinets with latex over oil – NO primer!! Joys of buying a fixer… but we’re in the GTA, so what else can you do if you aren’t a millionaire?
About to seal the deck I built last year using all of your DIY techniques and then this article popped up. I will have to be taking a trip to Randall’s soon. Thank you for everything through the years Jeff!! Always know I can rely on good tricks from someone who knows our climate here in the Capital region
I bought some stain at habitat for humanity, (20.00 per gallon) one gallon red wood, one Mahogany and one natural ….kept the red solids, little of the solids from the mahogany, left the brown natural out of the third, poured off the rest of the oils out into a bigger container (boxing them together…performed a test to make sure properly obsorbs and dries…..everything working, I proceeded ….looks beautiful!
I hate to be a negative here,however, I think this is far better than what most people do, but the first mistake made here is doing it in sunlight, that will fail in the year 100%, a solid oil would obviously hide the beautiful wood, but it’s more durable, there’s also vertical and horizontal stains. Transparent or semi transparent, waterbased can be applied over itself if it’s still damp and for sure it would need 2 coats. A better move would be to resand and reapply chances are you wouldn’t get much more than a year out of it again though. Nice, informative website, lots of good stuff. Keep up the good work.
Your technique is good 👍 However… The best way to stain a deck: 1. If sanding… use 40 / 80 grit (220 is a smooth fine finish grit used for interior projects, never used for exterior deck lumber) 2. Allow the deck to dry & Always use a moisture meter… 12% or less is ideal using oil 3. Apply a deep penetrating oil based semi-transparent stain like Pecan, Chestnut, Walnut… This will provide you the best appearance & longevity hands down… Period!!!
I am so relieved to find this article of yours! We have a new deck going in mid March and I’m overwhelmed trying to find the best stain, approach, etc. You just answered a lot of those questions for me. I love that you have highlighted a product that can be applied right over itself for years to come. and if I’m understanding, it does not need to be sanded down for future applications after the initial application? My only other question is with the new cedar, how long should I wait before I apply anything to it? Does it need to “cure”? I’ve heard tiannins in Cedar can leach for months and affect whatever is applied to it, is this correct?
Follow the directions on the can and apply C2 Guard to DRY wood. We are finding this product most effective so far. Prewetting your wood will cause the product to fail. After perusal this tutorial, we prewet a small area and applied it there first and noted it’s failure to bead water. We contacted C2. To correct this problem we were advised to apply a 3rd coat to that spot and thankfully that solved the problem. We applied 2 coats of the product to dry wood on the rest of the deck according to instructions and it’s performing well.
Hey Jeff, thanks for this article. I am building my deck and I ordered the product you recommended, but C2 paint didn’t seem to honor the 20% discount when I reviewed the CC charge. I used the link in the article so I don’t understand. I have emailed them but not heard back from them yet. Anyway, thanks for the series of articles, very helpful. Cheers.
From a friend and who’s a retired paint chemist for one of the biggest names in paint (not PPG, btw): PPG’s ProLuxe Stains (not the ‘single-coat’ stuff, SDR or something), formulated by Sikkens, far out-performed all other stains on the market in an objective comparison a few years ago. That’s what he used on his own 30-year-old deck just last year.
Sanding with 220 grit paper and a power sander will actually CREATE mill glaze, not get rid of it! Nothing finer than 80 or 100 grit should be used on a deck. This is standard instructions given on many manufacturer’s labels. Washing the deck with a deck cleaner containing oxalic acid will also get rid of mill glaze.
Here’s a fun little project that can be a multi-year endeavor similar to Project Farm and Repair Geek’s comparisons/reviews: Make a little deck with common lumber, treated and not, and use various products in various applications and just let them sit out in the elements, re-coating some every 1-5 years, and doing nothing with others. Could be a fun one.
Jeff, I’ve used a few (over several years) solid stains on an old, weathered deck. They never last. I see this as a polyurethane stain treatment. How is this not a “coating” on top of a deck and that it won’t peal within a year? I’m at a point it may be time to rip up the deck to put “new” deck boards down. Will this last more than a year or should I replace my deck?
We’re big fans of the website and so appreciate all your tips and tricks! This article was particularly timely as we just moved in to our newly built home and need to seal the raw wood on our front porch. However, when I tried to apply the coupon code after adding 4 gallons of C2 Guard for Wood it said the code wasn’t valid for the items in the cart. Any idea why? Thanks a bunch!
Hi Jeff! Great article! Quick question for you, I see you’re using Sugar Maple as a color of the C2. I was under the impression color stains fade or chip away quicker. And if I go to reapply I’ll have a ton of sanding to do. How does this C2 product differ in this case? Or would you recommend a clear version? Thanks again! Love your articles! Cheers!
I am very skeptical that this will increase the longevity of a cedar deck. Even if the product helped, you would have to coat all 6 sides prior to assembling. We had two cedar decks; one stained and regularly restained with a penetrating oil based stain and one left natural. The natural one lasted about 5 years longer. Today’s cedar will start decaying at some of the board ends in about 10 years.
Thanks for sharing! I Just got my balcony installed with Canadian Red Cedar of high grade quality. Does it still needs to be sealed or could it wait after a few years time ? I love the natural look but maybe as a prevention mechanism it might be a smart thing to do. Does the wood need to cure after a certain amount of time after the installation ? Thanks again!
I wish I knew about this stuff last spring. We previously stained our cedar deck with Cabot oil-based stain. It looked good but didn’t survive the winter. Any flat surface that was exposed to snow was bare in the spring. So we tried the same stuff again in case we made an error the first time. Same result. Two summers ago we power washed the flat surfaces to remove any leftover stain. We intended to re-stain the deck last year; we had bought Behr brand wood stain stripper, deck cleaner, and Cedar Naturaltone transparent penetrating oil wood finish with the intention of washing and sanding every surface and staining it again. then we got that derocho storm in May and the post storm damage prevented us from doing it. Now we are going to do it this spring. But after perusal this I don’t know if I want to put all the work in of getting the entire deck back to its unfinished wood state just to put something else on it that isn’t going to last since I live in Ottawa and can go to Randall’s for the C2 product. Since we bought the Behr stuff last year we can’t return it and I don’t want to waste the money by not using it ($66 a can and we bought two of them), but I also don’t want to waste my time by using it and having to redo it all over again in a year or two. The pickle you’ve put me into! How can I convince my wife to take the loss on the Behr stuff and get the stuff you recommend?
Cut, STAIN, lay, stain again – not cut, lay, stain. None of your open ends are even touched by stain – and the end grain is the part of of a board which absorbs the most water when it rains, and you’re not even touching them with the “penetrating sealer:, not to mention the other sides of the boards you can’t see, and the edges which are close together. Every board has six sides – face, back, edge one, edge two, end one, end two – and you are “protecting” only one of the six sides – and let’s face it, you are applying the product to the only side which will dry out quickly by sun and wind. The other edges (which are in the dark, in humidity, away from the wind, and will remain damp for days after rain) are 100% raw, untreated timber, and your “rot” will start from where you can’t even see it until it has destroyed the boards from the back and worked its way forward.
Is there any decking under the furniture? If there is, why did you not stain it first to help prevent the possibility of scratching on other parts of the deck when the furniture is put into place later? Or having a non stained part of the deck later if you decide to move the furniture around and the deck under the furniture has had a chance to weather without any protection?
I have a 12×18 pressure treated wood deck that was built 22 months ago with white vinyl railings. I have not been able to seal the deck until now. Would a power wash with deck cleaner be enough or should I also sand? Is the C2 guard a clear sealant and do you think the Olympic Maximum clear sealant to be comparable? Like to know what you think.
I’d consider using C2 Guard but there isn’t really any photos of how the different colors look on finished projects. Thinking of Ready Seal or Defy of which there are many photos of completed projects in the colors I’m interested in. C2… the color squares on your website should be replaced with photos of actual decks in the various colors.
Friendly tip! Thumbs up👍on this one Jeff. One question, do you recommend applying this in the SUN or SHADE? SPRING or FALL. I am also a Professional Landscaper and apply sealer to interlock with a pump sprayer! I agree it is the best way to apply it. I know Murray very well at Randall’s. They sell the Gooseneck brush their, and many other great products! The gooseneck Guy! Cheers! The painting expert and Inventor of the Richard 2 1/2 Gooseneck paint brush. Cheers!
Love your work, … trying to figure out how to buy the applicator. And you seemed to rush the explanation of the stain material. Is there a two part product with mixing needed? Please watch or better have a friend watch and see if everything is easily understandable. I am a fan. Thanks for this article. I will buy the stain, brush, etc.
It appears that this is an entirely new deck. The proper procedure for the longest lasting stain job would have been to sand all the boards prior to cutting and installation. All six sides of the board get sealed, cuts are then sealed at the time of cutting. By sealing the entire board you limit moisture entering the board from below. Also, 220 is too fine of grit for “opening the grain” – depending on the wood, some manufactures will recommend 60 to 80 grit (Ipe wood for example), cedar – 120 – 150 grit. This can also be accomplished with liquid products. There are a couple ways to determine if the wood is ready to accept stain, first being a moisture meter, moisture needs to be 15% or less for most stains, the second is to drip water (a few drops) on to the wood, it should completely soak into the would within 30 seconds. Overall good info, but not 100% accurate.
No wonder how I found this one. I am looking it over. In Nc I have a lot of pollen, leaves, rain, hurricanes, snow, sleet 125F days. Before I switch my planks to composite I found this 😀 you Google well. I love how you sprayed the wood with water first. I learned TODAY it helps bring out the wood grain and when dry helps it hold the stain/sealer better.
I have a question about staining. I looked for this solution online and can’t find a reliable answer. We have old, oak wood cabinets that I want to re-stain and not paint. But the oak grain is so porous and deep that the contrast on graining with the stain is so bold and contrasted. I want a more subtle wood look almost marble like. Is there anyway without painting, to fill in the deep graining so when I stain, it isn’t so loud? I looked at wood filler but it seems people only put it on for patch work or pre-painting. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Hey jeff, what would you recommend for a deck cleaner? I tried the behr deck cleaner and im not too happy with it. I also bought this “30 seconds” outdoor cleaner, which seems to work better but i still have some algea that i can quite get off. Im debating on just sanding it after using the 30seconds for a second time but idk how well the pads will hold up with some algea left lol.
I never stain in direct sunlight because the stain dries so fast, and I won’t stain, if the temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius. Keep in mind, once you stain, you will be staining on a regular basis. I really think, if you care about your deck’s appearance, consider synthetic decking. Nice way to apply your stain, Jeff. Wish you well Sir. 🇨🇦💝🙏👍
Wish I had seen this before I restored my balcony/deck. 14 year old deck in the PNW. The wood is red cedar. It had turned black. Mildewed. Dirty. Stained. Sanded down to bare wood as best I could. Took apart everything but the floor to be able to sand and stain all sides. Did a water based penetrating stain on the rails and balustrades, two coats. Used Cabots oil based stain on the floor, two coats, plus added a coat to the top of the railing. Looks great, hoping it lasts. 🫣
Nothing, I mean absolutely nothing on the market will last on my Missouri back deck longer than 1 year. I have spent more than $300 on stains, sealers and coatings. After one summer, fall, winter and spring it looks like the wood had aged 15 years. I will redo the deck with plastic boards next time. Then it will be done till I’m ready for the nursing home.
I would disclaim that you can skip a majority of sanding steps for a solid stain. Also some of them for a semi transparent, the color you went with is probably the hardest you could have used but I feel like it illustrates proper use and not using bad habits. Also they sell deck stain mops that are easier to use than a brush for the future.
Meh!! use some old transmission oil or better yet get some used compressor oil. they both have a nice tint that will enhance the wood grain. Clean and prep the material then apply it with a heavy roller or brush or sprayer. rinse repeat every couple years. the deck will last for 20 years plus!! better than ANY commercial crap you can buy !!!!! Your local HOA may have an issue but if you don’t have one of those stupid things and the karens that go along with it to deal with then just spray away !!!!
😂 im sorry to say this but that deck looks horribly splotchy, its probally from all the water you put on it, ive seen hundreds of decks done dozens of different ways and this is probally the worst ive seen, leave the painting to the painters so your deck doesnt end up a disaster. The deck floor boards are the ones that look the worst its because when you soaked it with water the ones on the floor of the deck didnt shed the water
Jeff, hoping to return the favor. Carbs appear to be destroying your health. It’s a dead simple fix. And turns out the food choices, steaks anyone?, are not at all a compromise. Your heavy breathing is going to disappear. Your gut is going to shrink. And within weeks you’ll notice a positive change in energy levels, so much so that you’ll likely never look back. Forget the calories. You need a refocus on food choices and a carb count. It’s a really really simple fix. You won’t be hungry. And some alternatives like stevia which can get you that sweet fix when needed. Lots of proven resources on Youtube. Anyone else who has been on this journey – low carb, keto, OMAD – please chime in so hopefully Jeff hears from us. I need him around or I’ll never finish my projects!! Happy to help. Also though, likely some websites which focus on this area would work with you for some crossover programming. Win-win for both and us!
I DO NOT recommend this product. 3 days after staining and looking great, there was an overnight shower, the water penetrated the stain leaving dark spots everywhere, now it looks horrible. Waiting on Mike from Randall’s to do the honrable thing and get a refund. UPDATE: Not a refund but exchange for Sansin Dec
Communities like these in same same same faced houses are so dissapointing regarding creativity and design . I would feel sad. Alternatively, the houses could have been painted different colors . And damn it. Some old growth trees could have been planted. Mature trees will completely change the feel in this community. It will take 10-20 years and beyond to create a canopy. It will look and feel completely different. Elderly can stay home and age in place because there’s so many people living in the community, that therez the possibility of getting all the habitants of this village to care for each other without having to send people into nursing homes .
Are you just applying a coloured mask? WTF is/are the chemical ingredients that will protect from ice, UV, fungus, etc. Explain please. And if this product is so great, why don’t big box stores sell it. Expain please. Without the option to research claims related to the actual ingredients we have only your word about easy application. And 220 grit sandpaper seems suspiciously INeffective for opening up wood grain to receive stain.