This guide provides comprehensive information on how to plumb a house, including pipes, fixtures, connections, tools, and more. It discusses seven types of plumbing pipes, including PEX, copper, ABS, and Flexi Pipe. The design of a plumbing system is greatly influenced by the main water supply line, which is underground. The water enters the house through a water heater, which splits into two.
The guide also includes videos and tips for DIY plumbers to help choose the right pipe for water supply, drainage, and sewer, both interior and exterior. Common plumbing pipe materials include PEX, copper, and ABS. Identifying all different types of pipe in your home requires some detective work, as most homes are originally built with multiple pipe materials.
Drain pipes from all water fixtures meet up and connect to the main sewer line that exits the house. From there, it goes into your septic tank or gets sent to the city’s water treatment plant. To install a pipe, slide down a brass crimping ring on a side.
The plumbing system in your home is composed of two separate subsystems: one brings freshwater in and the other takes wastewater out. To install water lines in your home, start with PEX, use the correct pipe sizes, be careful mixing pipe materials, and ensure each service line has its own individual tap connection on the public main.
PEX is made by linking polymer molecules in polyethylene, improving the flexibility and durability of tubing. There are six different types of home plumbing pipes, including PEX, PVC, rigid copper, ABS, Flexi, and braided pipes.
📹 How Your Home Plumbing Works (From Start to Finish) | GOT2LEARN
Ever wonder where your water comes from, or where it even goes once you used it? Watch to learn! Join my plumbing forum for …
How to use a water pipe for beginners?
- Fill the bong with the correct amount of water.
- Add ice if desired.
- Take a practice hit.
- Pack your bowl piece.
- Light up and take a hit.
- Exhale without holding in smoke.
- Clear all smoke from the bong before passing.
Bongs are the most popular way to consume dry herbs, as they allow for a smaller amount of herbs while still getting a big hit. They also use water to filter smoke for a more comfortable smoking experience.
To learn the best way to use a bong, consider the different options and differences, such as simple glass tubes or ones with multiple chambers or percolators.
Before learning how to use a bong, it’s essential to understand the parts of a bong, as not all bongs are created equal but ultimately work the same and achieve the same purpose.
What kind of pipe do I need for a water line to my house?
Copper pipes are widely regarded as the standard for residential hot or cold water applications. They are available in rigid 2- and 10-foot lengths with diameters ranging from ½ inch to 1 inch.
Can you run a water pipe above ground?
Pipes situated above ground are less expensive and more flexible than their subterranean counterparts. However, the thinner walls of above-ground pipes result in lower pressure capabilities due to the soft, low-density polythene material used in their construction.
Are bongs healthier to smoke?
Cannabis smoking can be done using a water pipe, or bong, which is heated and filtered through water to cool it. Bongs can be made from glass or plastic, but heating plastic can release harmful components like BPA and phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors. Exposure to these compounds may alter fertility and increase the risk of severe lung injury. Glass bongs may be a safer alternative. If you experience any side effects, contact Poison Control for expert advice. Preventative measures include not using cannabis products if pregnant or trying to become pregnant, keeping them away from children, and not driving or operating machinery after use.
Can you install a water line yourself?
Inexperienced homeowners may need to repair leaks or replace old pipes themselves, but it’s crucial to have the correct pipe material, size, fittings, and installation methods. Here are five tips for DIY-style water line installation:
- Start with PEX pipes: PEX pipes are cheaper, flexible, easy to cut, and can be connected with simple fittings. They are also flexible and easy to cut, making the process easier, especially if you’re replacing a small section of the water line.
How deep do water lines need to be underground?
Water lines in the U. S. are typically 36 inches deep, with regulations based on the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and the International Residential Code (IRC). These codes require water and sewer lines to be 12 inches below grade, a foot underneath ground level, in areas where the ground rarely freezes. Additionally, all water and sewer lines must be at least 6 inches below the typical frost level for the area to prevent freezing.
Frost depth, or the total depth that frost can penetrate into the soil, is measured by taking the average of the three deepest penetrations over the last 30 years. Specific frost depth information is provided by the U. S. Department of Commerce and the National Snow and Ice Data Center, and local building codes are typically based on this data.
How deep should a water pipe be buried?
Prior to selecting a pipework material, it is advisable to consult with the supplier and utilise a ‘blank cap end’ manufactured from plastic or rubber, which features a bespoke aperture with a grommet for the passage of water pipes. The pipe should be laid at a depth of between 750 and 1, 350 mm.
Which pipe is not recommended to be buried underground?
PVC is not suitable for underground transport of potable water due to potential chemical leaching concerns. While it meets AWWA requirements, some states limit its use to non-potable applications like underground irrigation. High-density polyethylene (HDPE) pipe is a better choice for underground water lines due to its plastic fusion connection method, which is highly durable and can last up to 100 years.
HDPE is also resistant to corrosion and flexible, making it suitable for shifting soils and earthquakes, and allows for trenchless installation methods. However, some states limit its use for non-potable applications like underground irrigation.
Is PVC OK for main water line?
PVC pipes, commonly used for drinking water, can warp and break down when transporting hot water up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Instead, CPVC, or chlorinated polyvinyl chloride, is a safer and more durable option. Made through high temperatures and pressure, CPVC pipes are ideal for transporting water from the municipal system and home, as they are easy to bend and cut, and won’t easily corrode. CPVC pipes are suitable for tight spaces in homes.
Which pipe is best for house water supply?
PVC pipes are the most common type of pipe used in residential properties, suitable for drainage and main water supply due to their strength and durability in high-pressure conditions. They are easy to work with and do not require welding or metal work like steel or iron pipes. PVC pipes are suitable for both warm and cold water applications and do not rust or corrode over time. CPVC pipes, made from extra chlorine PVC, offer the same benefits as PVC pipes, including safety for transporting drinking water, no degradation when exposed to hot water, smooth surfaces, and insulation.
They are known for their high mechanical strength, corrosion resistance, and easy installation and maintenance, making them widely used in residential and commercial projects. Both types of pipes are suitable for various applications, including drainage lines, main water supply lines, and high-pressure applications.
How big of a water line do I need for my house?
The water service supply line, typically a ¾” to 1″ pipe, is responsible for providing potable water to residential homes. If you plan to add plumbing fixtures like showers, sinks, or toilets, it is required by the Illinois Plumbing Code that the water service line is large enough to accommodate the water demand from all fixtures combined. Factors such as pipe size, length of the line, and pipe condition can affect the capacity of the water service line.
To determine if the existing water service line is adequately sized, three pieces of information are needed: TABLE A (Water Service Line-Sizing Worksheet), TABLE N or TABLE O (Illinois Plumbing Code), and PIPE SIZE (pipe size). TABLE A calculates the number of existing and proposed plumbing fixtures within your home, while TABLE N or TABLE O identify the minimum water service line or “pipe size” based on the total number of WSFU’s calculated from TABLE A.
If the proposed addition of plumbing fixtures results in more fixtures than supported by the water service, the capacity of the water service line is undersized and does not comply with the Illinois Code. To confirm compliance, forward TABLE A to the Wheaton Building Department and the Water Division.
📹 PEX Pipe Installation – ALL Connections To Fittings In A WHOLE HOUSE!
In this video I will show you a PEX pipe installation I did while building a whole house! PEX pipe installation tools are expensive …
In New Zealand, if you’re not on municipal water supply, you typically collect rainwater from the roof and store it in big tanks set on the ground, then use a pump to feed it into the house. Some farms the a few rural houses will use bores (wells) for water supply, but much more common to re-use rainwater.
As a general idiot when it comes to plumbing, thanks very much!!! In 2012, I bought a house that was built in the 50’s. You did a fabulous job of explaining everything. Generally I am a DIY person. This house had a lot of galvanized piping, when I purchased it. For the most part I have converted it to pex. I love pex as it’s easy to transport and to install. However, you also make me feel like the few times that I have spent huge money on a plumber, when I thought things were well above my expertise, it was money well spent. Thanks again for the fabulous tutorial. Two thumbs up sir.
I absorb a lot of knowledge about a wide variety of things from YouTube articles. I hold people like you in the highest respect! I am currently plumbing my house and you are just the guy I was hoping to find and learn from. It does make a difference in the way I choose to absorb information knowing that is comes from a seasoned professional. I might have a question or three along the way. I hope you don’t mind if I reach out and ask you about something. Soon, I will be demolishing the cast iron stack and replacing it with PVC parts. Any advice for this is warmly welcomed. I have been the assistant for this task only one time in my life and now I know enough to be very dangerous!
You have made an excellent article explaining a home’s plumbing system. If there is anything that should be corrected are the sewage / fresh water pipe locations. Freshwater pipes are at four feet of depth, sewage pipes are six feet of depth. Your illustration has the sewage pipes above the fresh. This is not allowed by Code. If the sewage leaks, this would contaminate the fresh. Other than this, nice job.
Great article! Plumbing is very similar here in Finland. What we do differently though, is that you are not allowed to absorb the rain water next to the house straight via downspouts in a new construction (lots of old houses do this still, though). We have, at least on newer areas, municipality rain water collection system as also pointed out in this article. Also you are most definitely NOT allowed to direct your rainwater from downspouts straight to french drain, as that will surely make your foundations wet! You don’t want wet foundations! What we do is we collect rain water and french drain water (from two separate systems) into a single collection well that combines the two water streams and directs water to the municipality collection system. There are one or two non-return valves in place so water from the municipality system, if clogged, doesn’t get into the french drain and wet the foundations.
The last part of the article should of been this is one way, most rain water / storm drains go into a local man made pond and if that over flows goes into another one close to it. This is the same for huge parking lots etc. Imagine the flooding caused if all drainage pipes etc went to rivers/ streams etc… And how polluted they would be from all the run off from roads like oil trash etc..
My septic tank is under our road, lol. The road use to stop at my house and the septic tank was put in behind the road for easy access. I moved out of state for a job for a few years and we decided to move back, the road was over it. When houses were added down the road they paved over my septic tank. I called the road county manager about it, but they said there was nothing they can do about it, since it is now part of the public road system. I flush 1 gallon of buttermilk every month and it actually eats the waste. Been doing this for 16 years now. If anything happens we will have to have a new septic tank put in. Yes I did check with a lawyer and the county had the right to make the road. I found out they sent notice of the road going through, but I never received it.
There was something I was hoping you would have at least mentioned: black water and gray water. I only found out the difference about 3 years ago from a Tiny House course on Udemy but haven’t heard it from anywhere else, only in passing mention here and there, very seldom. To be fair, I haven’t looked into it, but it seems it should be basic knowledge and even I don’t know. I mean, my entire life is now study everything under the black sun. PLUS I’ve been working in the trades for about 4 years. All the more reason I should have come across it more often. I guess that is the thing with this civilized system, where everything is so specialized to the point we become ignorant to every other aspect of the world besides our employment/vocation, hobbies, and interest.
Went to school for plumbing, almost impulsively. Never really aspired to be a plumber but was given the opportunity to go, so I went. Once I graduated, did some plumbing in the Gettysburg, Pa area and quickly decided it wasnt what I wanted to do for the rest of my life haha However, Ill never regret going to trade school. Its a good knowledge to have. Same as being able to work on your own car. Gettysburg, being an extremely old town, had extremely old plumbing… Sometimes there was still lead pipe in the buildings. Cast Iron sucks big time because it peels away on the inside, dont really know how else to explain it. And its a nightmare to replace because it disintegrates as soon as you try to do anything to it.. PVC/ABS are amazing, low friction, doesnt degrade, LIGHTWEIGHT. You really gotta abuse a drain system to clog it up, if its been installed correctly… Copper water lines are generally fine, until they freeze, but the same goes for PEX due to the pieces the pipe gets clamped on to. But PEX is really a cool pipe material, it stretches when the water inside freezes, and returns to normal when it thaws. The T’s/90’s/45’s/valves/etc are the weakness. Brass is a soft metal and the water will eventually erode its way through after 15 years of use(speaking from experience in my own house). They make plastic ones, I dont have much experience with them but they feel cheap, however they may hold up better.
Thanks for a very interesting article. The only thing I would suggest is not to use words that many people might not understand, like potable etc. For you, they are everyday words but not for us layman. I understand because I was always interested and often did my own plumbing maintenance if it was simple enough. I liked the way you explained about pressure and would enjoy a more detailed explanation because I have a problem with a double sink that I would fix myself if I understood why it was happening. Thanks again.
If you are having any problems with your home with Flo always call the city first to make sure it’s not the mains out in the street holding to affect your house the city Mains are the city’s problem, it could save you a lot of money from a plumbers visit.Rain in any ways does not effect your sewer issues unless you have so much rain the Ground under your lawn caves in.
we have copper for a few lines in our house built in 2005 here in Wisconsin, but for all the lines running throughout the house it says AquaPex on it, so I guess we have Pex. We have a water softener from 2008 that still works, it has a rotary dial on it but its still working great, so if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. The Dishwasher is easily from 2005 when I graduated high school (has the same look and feel with a rotary dial to work in it just like the ones I remember growing up), and it still works 20 years later, things are breaking on it but since its mechanical, the thing still freakin’ works great and is clean
Great article! questions I’d like to ask: At about 4:31, when describing well water connections, what is the blue “apparatus” that sits before the water heater tank? For well water connections, is that blue “apparatus” required (if so, what would happen if a home didn’t have it and just connected straight into a water heater tank)?? Thanks again for the awesome article
In Ireland most houses have a storage tank in the attic which is fed from the mains supply. The tank is then used to feed water to every sink except the kitchen sink and also all baths and showers. Another tank is used to supply recirculating water for the central heating system and is much smaller than the storage tank. In the event of the storage tank being emptied due to a water supply outage you can have airlocks in the systems fed by the tank.These need to be purged of trapped air by linking the pipes temporarily to the high pressure mains supply. In areas of high altitude and in rural water schemes water pressure can be a problem and water quality and reliability of supply can also be a problem. Hence the need for strorage tanks in houses in Ireland.
Hello Got2Learn. Big follower here. Can you make a article on how to hooked up a new bathroom plumbing into an old house plumbing system. We are thinking build a bathroom in our garage but we have no idea where to looking for the connection. Thank You. No concrete would be required to cut bc we are add the square footage for the addition.
I moved into a house with 3 toilets back in march. Two of the toilets at the front of the house every few months block, basically I believe because our neighbours are putting baby wipes down their toilet which blocks the drains (we are connected with the neighbours it doesn’t go out into the sewers beneath the road). Requiring someone to come and unblock it. The thing is if I fill the sink up with hot water with the plug in the sink, then take out the plug so the water empties quickly it then causes the water level in the blocked toilet to go down. Ive always wondered whats happening. Also a shower cubicle is linked and the shower tray fills up after a minute or so. Again if I fill up the sink with hot water. Take out the plug it then causes the shower to drain. But then it’s still blocked as if I flush the toilet again it fills up. obviously the hot water and it being emptied quickly is causing some kind of reaction which then helps the water drain. Also the sink which must be connected to the shower and toilets will never block. But yet the shower cubicle blocks within a minute or so.
Hey man this is Wayne Gray with B&D Plumbing in Baton Rouge,La. I worked in the field doing new construction for 10 years before I got lucky and was placed in the office as a Commercial Estimator and Project Manager. I spent four years in the Army as a 12B(Combat Engineer) Love the articles they are awesome! I am part of the LAPHCC (Louisiana Plumbing Heating and Cooling Contractors) board as the chair for the young professionals. I would love to be able to chat with you and see if you would be interested in helping us spread awareness in regards to getting trade work taught in High School in our state. We really are trying to bring more attention to the trades as being a better option than going to college and spending 4 years to get a “degree” that these kids can’t even get a job with when they graduate. The need for trade workers is growing and outpacing the supply of younger generations coming in. I know you have a lot going on and I really hope you get a chance to read this message. You are awesome and keep on brother. Would love to hear your thoughts and if you would be interested. Thank you, Wayne Gray LJP12668 LNGF15108
“…in the past…” Ottawa, Canada, has entered the chat. We might as well be here, because our municipal beaches are all closed due to wastewater overflows from our combined sanitary and storm water sewers (which flow directly into the Ottawa River if we get too much rain in the system is overwhelmed). They’ve made improvements recently, and it’s not as bad, but we also have a frequently-closed beach that is literally called Petrie Island. Like that is its formal name. The beach where you can go to get a water sample that you could put in a petri dish, to examine the E. coli; is called Petrie Island. This really amuses me, because (spiritually) I am 12.
A story from my childhood: A lift station somewhere down the sewer line failed, and backed up the sewer. There’s a manhole in my parents’ backyard that started overflowing sewage. However, there’s also a storm drain 5 feet away and downhill from the manhole, so the sewage was flowing directly into the storm drain, and subsequently into the creek nearby. I have no idea why, but eventually the sewer overflow stopped, and then began overflowing from our indoor toilets all over the neighborhood. It took months to fix our basement.
Omg very informative…currently looking for another home & my fiance is wa ting to build a bathroom in our daughter’s room if the house doesn’t have one already. I told her it all in the plumbing & she got Discouraged like i said no its impossible. I said it’ll cost & we have to make sure it’s pipes to run waste out of the house, now if yiu just want a “bathroom ” with no running water or toilet let’s do it…lol smh but I’m thinking if I send this to her she’d understand more…or still not care just want what she wants 🤣🤣🤣
I live in a city with 500,000 inhabitants, in the middle of the Amazon rainforest. At my house I did a 100 foot water well. However, I use the water pump to fill a 1000 liter water tank that is 13 feet high. The company that supplies water supplies water on a day-in, day-out scale, the water is dirty with remnants of clay and weak, not being able to go up to my house’s reservoir on its own.
Fascinating, thanks. But I still have a question. I’ve often wondered : what if, for some reason or an other, there’s no one left to maintain this system, would the municipal potable water still come to your place, and also, for the municipal drains, would they still work ? Thanks for the answer if someone knows
I ran a garden hose through the 4 vents on my roof and then pressure jetted the main line from the cleanout in front of the house to the street. It seems every time I do laundry and the washer drains, I hear bubbling in the toilet at the master bedroom bathroom. One night I came home and the room reeked of sewer gas and the toilet was completely dry. If the problem continues may have a partial blockage further up the main line.
In Sweden, thanks to environmental-laws, it is not allowed to let the waters drain out into the ground anymore(when you have a non-municipal sewage-system). There needs to be installed a mini treatment-plant after the sludge separator(for solid waste) to purify the waters, until it is almost drinkable. That or a constructed complex ground-bed with different layers of soils, rocks etc. In both cases it will become much more expensive then just filtering the water trough the ground.
Got2Learn: I have a question. I live in a second floor apt. One day I heard what sounded like a waterfall coming from one of my bathrooms and sure enough, the water was pouring up and out from the bathroom sink drain like a tsunami that wouldn’t quit. The building manager sent someone over immediately to help and well, the water just finally stopped pouring out and he couldn’t explain what happened.. He dumped a bottle of Drano down the drain but the thing of it is, I’ve never used that bathroom sink in the 4 yrs I’ve lived here so how would it get clogged up and since when does a clogged drain create a tsunami of water to just start pouring into the sink and overflow onto the counter and all over the floor, out of the blue? Have you ever heard of anything so bizarre? I don’t expect you to know or be able to offer advice but maybe it’s just a simple answer. Thank you for reading my query.
It’s trivia on school work level (except creating article itself). Much more interesting is how people can be MORE INDEPENDED from guavament. Say, how PROPERLY collect rain water and use it? How to make borehole? Which filters are required? How to make pumps work from solar? All of that can make you less depended from municipality.
Until about 5 years ago our city still ran combined drainage, mainly in the old neighborhoods. That was until the EPA stepped in and mandated the changes for a mere $1.5 billion. They have been installing new sewer drains and underground overflow bins for when strong storms hit. It added a $50 usage fee and a separate smaller fee for gas and water.
In my country toilets don’t flush good, they are weak, in North America they suction strongly, I always wondered why. This article shows me why. In my country toilets doesn’t have a vent that goes up through the roof so there is NO air coming in to flush good. Like a fuel jerry can which needs to have a 2nd opening for the fuel to pour faster.
hello, @about 02:12 the solids dont need to be pumped out of the cesspool by a vacuum truck if u flush a box of RidX once a month down ur septic bcz the RidX contains millions of engulfing bacteria that breaks down solid matter into a low viscosity sludge, thus keeping ur septic regular, & there’r even more potent industrial strength liquids than RidX, with powerful emulsifiers.
Great instructional article for this Pex water supply system. Personally though, I’d install support blocking at every fixture where the supply comes through the wall and secure the supply line to the blocking. The cheap, plastic ice maker and washing machine receptacles need additional framing too. It’s always been a pet peeve when the fixture cut-off valve isn’t solidly secured.
Great article. A couple thoughts. The radius brackets are a nice alternative to a cut and crimp 90; it’s one less fitting. Many of them also incorporate a nailing hole to fasten them to the structure. The stub-out brackets are nice for sinks and toilets. Call me old-fashioned, but I like shutoff valves to be firmly secured, not flopping around.
Great article! I am currently replacing a lot of damaged flooring and walls due to some idiot not using crimp fittings, but instead used the “Sharkbite” type connectors. Almost all leaked. The repairs will cost me thousands. Guys, do yourself a favor and use the compression type like shown here in this article. A job that lasts is a professional job!
Bro, you’re the best. Nothing else to say. I appreciate the gold mine of information you provide as you narrate your work. The information about the codes, like distances to and from, and why, is a valuable piece of info. Thank you and please keep up the great work. I appreciate your articles, and all your info.
In 1984, I went to a vocational highschool, and plumbing was one of my exploritories in freshman year … I am amazed at all the advancements in the industry since then… I am planning to redo my home with this material, replacing the copper. Very little work as it is a single family cape… Kitchen and 1 bath, nothing fancy or overdone. I may even do all the extra stuff, in case I ever decide to sell, because they will make nice selling points and higher selling price, at a very low cost…
Thanks so much for an incredibly well done article! 🙂 Appreciate the time that was put into this. I’ve notice in the comments that many folks have asked about the cinch clamp vs the copper ring method used here. I prefer the stainless steel cinch clamp vs the copper ring crimp system. As the cinch clamp is stainless steel, it is less likely to corrode than the copper ring. Also, the cinch tool is easier to use in tight spaces & fits all size clamps – with the copper ring crimp tool you need to change jaw sizes for different size rings, apply more pressure, & you need to use a go-no go gauge. It’s a personal preference thing…from what I have read, both types of connections are equally reliable, except for the corrosion issue with the copper rings. The expansion system, where a tool is used to expand a collar fitted on the end of the Pex pipe & then the Pex fitting is inserted, may be the best way to go, but the powered expansion tool is several hundred dollars…there are cheaper manual tools, but from what I understand, they are difficult to use & not really recommended.
Thanks for the article. I am relocating the plumbing to my master bathroom to accommodate a new floor plan and am switching to PEX so this is very helpful. I’m going to have a pro come and check everything but that’s much cheaper than having them come and do it… Plus I have a specific way I want it done and I have done construction long enough to know how much plumbers don’t care about how their work looks and functions. This is very helpful.
Thanks for the great article. My house was built in the early ’90s and originally plumbed with qest pipe 😢. I’m going to completely replumb with pex, so I will be bringing my hot and cold supplies up through the bottoms of the base cabnets instead of stubbing out the walls. Thanks again. I’ve got you subscribed!
I appreciate the great article that will help me a lot for replacing my water lines. I’m curious though why you use so many 90 degree connectors. It seems like it would be better to just use the 90 degree bend support brackets. That way there would be a lot less fittings that could possibly leak. Can you tell me which is better or why you do it this way?
Great article! Just a FYI note, as a GC I’ve come across several major leaks in my area from the brass fittings because we have extremely hard water & the calcium builds up around the brass & expands causing the rings to fail! Their for all the plumber’s in my area have switched to only using the pex fittings & not the brass, not saying that in your area is the same problem just saying for you as a content creator it’s good to know that their’s a place for everything & not make it look like that brass is the right way to do it for everyone, I hope you take it as constructive criticism & btw love how simple & clear you make your articles & I just subscribed myself
Dude I’ve sat here thinking that I could never do my own plumbing shit and this has given me all the confidence I need to be able to go tackle this shit. Now all I need to do is find someone to teach me basics of electrical like you’ve done here with plumbing and it’s a wrap. I’m gonna be so productive.
Awesome article for those who want to learn (or never heard of) about pex. We re-did all my water lines (they were older and some had previously leaked), luckily they were all in the basement with easy access. We used pex clamps instead of the crimp rings. Just curious of why you use or prefer the rings over the clamps.
My neighbor had a repair job done and his basement with PEX piping and I was very impressed on how they did it and they too use the brass fittings and nothing leaked! I was kind of impressed with that and wanted to change out some of my pipes with PEX. However, I’m terrified of leaks and the damage that they can cause. After perusal your article I feel confident in trying to switch out the old pipes with PEX. perusal your articles on YouTube really made me feel confident and gave me clear instructions on what I need as far as tools equipment and skill level. You’re awesome with that! Your articles are step by step ways for a first time user on how to use PEX and I appreciate that!! My neighbor couldn’t tell me anything on how they use the product or what they use to product with and how it never leaked but perusal you showed me every step of the way except for with my experience which is none makes me a list comfortable about the crimping and making sure there’s no leaks. So I guess that goes with the confident levels I have that I have to overcome. However if I keep perusal your articles I’ll be okay! But seriously, you never had a leak problem with the crimping? And if so what was the step she took to repair them?
Thank you for this article. If someone already asked this i apologize. When you did your long runs across the joist you did not drill a hole and go through the wood. Doesn’t that make finishing the basement hard? And is this all PEX A type tubing? And you used a lot of elbows where i see others bend the tubing about a bracket for turns reducing the number of fittings.
I like PEX. I finally broke down and bought the crimper. My water lines kept freezing and busting so I thought I’d use PEX to make it faster and easier to fix them but another benefit I didn’t even realize at the time is they’re more flexible and apparently more resistant to busting from freezing. There was one particular spot that was prone to freezing and after I replaced that whole area with PEX, they haven’t burst again since – and that’s been several years ago.
If repiping an existing home, and you’re planning on doing one section at a time, what is useful are the removeable sharkbite push cap for copper to terminate the copper pipe. For polybutylene, one can be made for a PB-PEX transition, a few inches of PEX pipe and a PEX push cap. You can then run PEX from that section of your house to your new manifold.
2:48 I’m so used to having to go out to the meter box at the curb, 15 degree temps with snow on the ground and struggling to fit a crescent wrench properly to shut off the water to the house before the pipes thaw and floods. When (what year) did the human race finally wake up and start putting shut off valves inside the house, and why didn’t they do it sooner? I haven’t seen those, even in newer tract homes being built today. Shouldn’t ALL builders be doing it?
Awsome THANKS! I’m absorbing everything about running new plumbing because I got a home that has Poly & I’m starting to have outside leaks on the main & had 1 right at the top of the slab, luckily, right below the sink. I’ve had no issue fixing them but I don’t feel good about trusting the rest of the interior poly. Its BS that there was a huge class action suite on this stuff but they stopped covering homes built when this was so popular. I bought this home in 2014 & had no idea about Poly. I’ve read there’s over 10 MILLION homes just like mine in the US. My ordeal really goes to show you the Government Regulations have nothing to do with genuinely protecting home owners. Its like with all Gov Regulations, more Taxes, Laws, that ultimately lead to more Power.
Hi E.L. I was a plumber contractor for many years but never worked with PEX. I’m old school copper and PVC. I needed to do some repairs on a house we bought and having PEX already installed was something I didn’t know anything about. After perusal your very informative article, how you explained things and why, I came away with a great understanding of this type of system. Thank you for your intelligent explanation of PEX.
Everyone has their way of doing what they think is better, so these are just some of my ideas. I’m like you, I love brass over plastic, but many people have wells and the acidic water will eat brass fittings. Now, when coming into the house, instead of the 90’s, I would use the pipe bend support brackets, fewer connections, and less chance of flow noise. Also, I always install one of the micromesh stainless filters to catch any particles that can ruin your faucets, they have a clear bowl with a drain, so if you see something in it, it’s easy to remove. I started with the copper compression rings and love them, but finding I like the stainless steel rings more, due to only needing 1 small crimp tool. If you are just starting, the tool for the stainless bands is much cheaper and fits all sizes. Instead of using plugs and wasting crimp rings, I use the shark bite fittings, although I will not use them in any permanent setting. And thanks for not trying to push Pex A, for some reason, many do. The fittings for A are way more expensive, and the expansion tool is very expensive. Pex A only has 1 advantage, if you kink it, you can use a heat gun to fix it. And just for info, you can use Pex B fittings on Pex A, but you can not use Pex A fittings on Pex B.
Love your work and articles! Makes me believe I can do all this stuff after years and years and years of perusal others do such. I’ve always been a little weary of Pex!!! Jan 24, 2022 – One of the most recent studies, conducted in 2021, tested water from eight different types of PEX pipe brands. They found that 62 chemicals leached into the water, with half of those organic compounds leached considered toxicological but
Years ago while I was still working, we did everything in copper then PEX came along and we started to use it. I took three-quarter inch PEX made a round loop 2 foot and diameter put it underwater put the coupling together and then crimp it so there was no air in it and I left that in my service van for the entire winter 20 below 0° 10° and that PEX froze solid never split never leaked got to the next summer. It was a small air bubble in it, but the PEX was solid no leaks. That’s when I decided ALL PEX
Hi, thank you so much for this awesome article it was extremely detailed. I am building a large workshop with bathroom complete with shower. I will use this information to do the job, right, it is so helpful, one suggestion, I may add, during the pandemic, toilet paper was difficult to purchase, I installed hot and cold water bidets on our toilets, I had to tap off the hot water in the sink, for the bidets, and it leaves exposed the feeder line, you may consider adding a hot and cold shut off at the toilet level. Just food for thought, having a warm water bidet versus Street cold water especially in the winter is really nice. Again, thank you for your great and detailed article thumbs up. And just to add after reading a couple other reviews, the music is a little bit on the irritating side, may be choose soft, easy, listening, instrumental, music, or no music at all. I was trying to watch this article in bed, while my wife was sleeping, and I had to keep turning the volume down whenever the music was on. But that’s really minor just, my thought
I finally found out what this pipe is with the black rings under my sink. Please help me on how to remove a 3/4 inch and the red wider pipe. they all have them black crimp rings. I need to replace the cutoff valve so I can install that side runoff that needs to go to an undersink water filter. I don’t own any of those crimping or cutting tools except that needle nose pilers.
My current home was built in 1970 the year following my graduation from high school. Now this house is in need of some serious remodeling to please my wife and to make it more age related /handicapped friendly. At 70 I can still do a large amount of the work myself but I hate doing plumbing. The copper pipe used originally must have been part of a defective shipment sold throughout the US in the early 70s. It is continuously developing small pin hole leaks that have driven me crazy over the years. My plumbing is covered by a finished ceiling textured with the swirl pattern that I cannot recreate and the drywaller who originally did the work is now deceased. My son has suggested installing PEX and I really like his idea. He is suggesting I use 1″ as the main supply run inside branching to 3/4 to all drops. His thought is to have really good water pressure throughout the house. Will this work or will it be too much pressure, overkill, or ridiculously extra expensive? You wouldn’t want to come to Tennessee and do the work and we could film it for your website would you? LOL
Nice article! Where do you find a crawl space big enough to work in? Crawl space under my house is about 16 inches. I am 6’5″ and 250 pounds. I have lived here for 24 years and never attempted to go under the house. My attic is the same way. I added a drop down stairs so I can get into the attic as the opening was about 15′ square.
The 2 big benefit’s of PVC (Plastic) over brass fittings are cost and PVC will never corrode. These pipe fittings never are under stress and PVC is very strong, PVC to me is a win win deal. I’m not a plumber but I am a Journeyman Pipe Fitter since 1975. One last thing before you hydro test I would have joined all hot and cold piping this ensures that no air is trapped in the branches. Otherwise you did a quality job.
Great job with the article. Our factory built home has brass that have been failing one after another. From what I have read the fault is because some of the Chinese were made with a modified brass. The fittings crack then break. I am using plastic fittings to repair but would use brass if I was sure it was made correctly.
Hey Josh, I need you to come and replace my water lines in my craw space 😄 I have that horrible polybutylene pipe throughout my home and I hate it!!! Have to leave water pressure low so I don’t blow them apart. Had a few leaks since 1990 that weren’t too bad, they were where I could get to them. Lol. I’d love to have it all replaced with pex. Awesome article my friend and very educational. Thanks, Jay.
Thank you for the article. I’m repiping my home and I was wondering if you could elaborate a little more on why you decided to go with the brass T’s, elbows, and couplings instead of the plastic? Do they last longer, hold the seal better (Uponor/Zurn), less water restriction, etc…? Thanks again for sharing!
Catching up some of your earlier articles… I think i would try to put the main water shutoff inside the house so its quicker to get to if theres a leak. I’m a firefighter and people always call 911 when they have a water leak. It seems almost nobody knows what to do if there’s a leak and they don’t know where their main shut off is.
Great article! I learned a lot and feel more confident for DIY my basement. Question: my bathroom is next to my utility room in the basement. Typical 5 by 10 bathroom with a sink, toliet and shower. my question is that can I just use 1/2 pex to branch off the main line to supply this bathroom, or do I need to use some 3/4 for the job? Thank you so much!
Pex is a great product if its installed correctly and be proactive. What Most people don’t know is that. The PEX pipe disintegrates if exposed to daylight or even bright indoor lighting. Pex also suffers from chlorine exposure from city water. Pex is also a bacteria magnet unlike copper tubing. Pex is also very prone to rodent damage when they are looking for water. Rats and mice will chew right through them to get water. Pex is also plastic, plastic chemicals can leach into water. We’re told not to heat food in plastic.
Hello I’m a newbie sub. Someone may have already asked, but don’t have the time to read through 800+ comments. Just wanted to ask, on the first example you showed on crimping the 3/4″ pipe for the go – no go gauge, correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t the crimp too tight if tool slides over crimp ring all the way?That was my understanding anyway, unless every tool and gauge are different, but I know mine says tool gauge should stop about halfway and line up with the go mark. About to use mine for the first time and just wanted to make sure I’m understanding correctly. Also good job on article bro!
Great article I ran into this article searching for some clarity maybe u can help out if I’m tapping into my outside spigot from house and running about 50 ft of water line to my shed for washer only what size is good 3/4 or 1/2 also I am installing a dedicated small plug in water heater for washer what size of PEX from heater to washer it will be like 2 or 3 feet apart. Any help is greatly appreciated
Excellent and informative article! Could you please explain what size ring to us with what size pex tubing? I’ve seen some people out there saying that for installing 1/2 inch pex, you need to use the next size up on the ring. That doesn’t sound right to me. What’s the truth? Also, is 1/2 inch pex big enough diameter for good water flow? Or is it better to just run 3/4 inch throughout?
Thanks for the article, where were you two years ago when I installed my house plumbing??? 19:40 they make a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 tee to handle the end of run reduction – you can save two clamp joints by using this. Also, did you run 3/4″ hot throughout the house, and reduce the last fitting line to 1/2? I ran 1/2″ from a manifold at the water heater (3/4 out of water heater to manifold, 1/2 out to each fixture_ – I thought that would be too much hot water to have to flow thru the 3/4 line each time one of the fixtures needs hot water.
Great article .Makes me want to go plumb something!! OK,Whew. Now I am over it. That was close. Parts are too expensive these days. .Pretty much everything was covered here except the necessity of Long tailed tee shirts for some plumbers so when they bend over they don’t moon everybody. Yet most plumbers already know that if you are effected by this simply dump wood shavings or whatever might be handy (fiberglass insulation)? into the offending zone. Be aware that that is why some plumbers have apprentices whose job is to try to prevent such incursions but if their apprentice is present just send them after something outside while you apply the remedy.
Love your articles. All of them are great. I may be picky on this but I find myself lowering the volume on the music and raising it when you are narrating to hear what you say. Can you bring the volumes on these where they equal the volume of your narrations or the volume is a bit lower. This way peeps like me don’t have to keep chasing the volume.
I have few questions. If your a plumbing how come you don’t use shark bite brass caps that would be reusable right for another job? After your pressure tests. Also with wood the holes for pipe seems to be tight on your 3/4″. That is ok for expandable purposes? Doesn’t need more room? Great article. Is there a way to tell if you have type a or b pex? Something that already has it? If I wanted to switch all the plastic fittings to brass? I don’t want to have to buy the expanding tool if that’s the case.
Doing a 24×32 cabin from the black pipe outside the wall. I have done all but the hot water tank. The old owner had pvc all running along the outside of the walls…??? I am bringing the HW tank to under the corner kitchen counter. Two feet over to the kitchen sink. The pipe will go up the wall and around the room at the ceiling to the bath. A small soffit will cover it. The heat will keep all from freezing. I am installing low point exits to drain for winter if I go south.
Your article and information is superb! Thanks a million. One suggestion is to keep the music way lower in volume so when you talk there isn’t constant volume changes. Your information is way more important than the music, and I a pro musician LOL. I know how music works, I am interested in your professional plumbing thanks.