If you hear hissing or lose pressure, it’s a leak in the pipes. To detect leaks, put soap in water and rub it onto each pipe joint one at a time. If the solution bubbles, there is a leak. Test all joints to ensure all leaks are found. Release air pressure and make repairs to seal the pipes.
A hydrostatic pressure test on plumbing before a plumbing inspection is also recommended. Water testing is easier to get a visual confirmation of leaks at the joints and requires minimal extra time for installers and is error-proof, making it a win-win and ensuring a safer jobsite.
To water-test existing plumbing, filling plumbing pipes with pressurized air is a quick and effective way to inspect for leaks in a new installation of water pipes and drain-waste-vent (DWV) systems. The basic principles of leaks and leak testing can be found in TQC’s background information. An initial pneumatic leak test may be conducted using compressed air or inert gas if the pressure is limited to 7.25psi.
To water test plastic pipe and fittings, isolate each section of pipe by inserting plugs through test tees, fill the system with water to the highest point, and ensure all air trapped in the system is expelled before beginning the test. If a leak is found, cut and discard the joint.
Testing with air is one way to test patience, but with water, you can see if there is a leak. Pour a 5 gallon bucket of water down the drain and check the new fitting. Close all drains up tight and perform either a water mast test or a peppermint test on the whole DWV system.
Pressurized air filing your plumbing confirms if there are any leaks and helps you know if the pipes have any structural damage.
📹 How To Pressure Test Plumbing And Hydrostatic Test Plumbing! (for plumbing inspection)
In this video I will show you how to pressure test plumbing. I also show you how to do a hydrostatic pressure test on plumbing …
📹 Pressure Testing Our Drain-Waste-Vent Pipes
If you do a pressure test and don’t find any leaks, did you really do a pressure test?? * LINK TO ENTIRE HOUSE BUILD …
A positive air pressure test is not allowed in the state of Connecticut. The only two acceptable options is a vacuum test or a water test. Some manufacturers may actually require you to replace all of your DWV pipes if you put an air test on the system. Please make sure to give your local jurisdiction a call.
Please remind your viewers that not all plumbing codes are the same. There are some jurisdictions that would fail you for the Fernco inside a building, air admittance valves anywhere on the installation and most importantly the wrong gauge used for the test—- must be a lower range attached to the system.
I was curious so did a bit of googling and found this: “Fernco (Rubber) fittings are not approved in wall framing unless they have a metal sheathed hose clamp assembly covering the entire fitting as part of the design, Which limit them to straight couplings or reducing couplings. The reason is that vermin can chew through the rubber. They are suitable for underground but are more expensive than standard no hub couplings or regular pvc fittings. So the reason for wanting to use them for that is questionable unless there is some sort of access issue.” So I doubt having that coupling in the wall would not be acceptable to your inspector. It sounds like the full-metal covered couplings are ok, and honestly based on the way that was bulging I’d think you’d want that anyway. I’m curious if your inspector already passed it though.
Using air to pressure test PVC is a bad idea, positive air pressure is combustible and PVC drain lines are not ready for pressure which could in turn lead to an exploding sort of pipe bomb. Never exceed 5 PSI. Your best bet is to use negative air pressure AKA suction and watch your gauge to test for leaks. Next time just use it 4-in plug instead of that insert bladder thing