Orchids thrive in humid environments, and increasing humidity around them can help them bloom. To achieve this, use a humidifier, place orchid pots on a humidity tray, place them in a terrarium or greenhouse, use a humidity dome, or use a humidity box. Humidity is the percentage of water vapor in the air, and it is lowest during the day and highest in the evening, night, and morning.
To increase humidity around your orchids, use water trays under the pots and pour a small layer of gravel, marbles, or leca. For outdoor and greenhouse plants, consider using a humidistat to make it easier for you and your orchids to determine the right humidity levels.
It is generally recommended not to grow mounted orchids indoors unless they are in a vivarium/terrarium. To raise humidity indoors, ensure proper watering and air movement. Use a humidity tray or invest in a humidifier, such as a humidistat, to provide good air circulation and reduce the guesswork for both you and your orchids.
There are three ways to increase humidity for indoor growing areas: 1) humidifiers, 2) humidity trays, and 3) grouping plants closer together. Place your orchids in a naturally damp area like the basement, and use a room humidifier or an evaporative-pad humidifier. When cooler or drier humidity occurs, shelter the orchids from airflow by placing them next to walls or fences.
The ideal humidity range for most orchids is between 50-70 degrees Celsius. Some orchids may only grow to their full potential in higher humidity conditions. In addition to providing the orchid with a humid environment, ensure it receives the right amount of water (three ice cubes per week for premium).
📹 All about humidity for Orchids – Video request!
Today we talk about what relative humidity means, why it is important for orchids and some ways to increase or decrease it.
📹 Orchid Humidity Trays: How Efficient Are They?
Orchid Humidity Trays: How Efficient Are They? Orchids thrive in humid climates, more than we can provide inside our homes.
Very timely. I’ve spent the last few days trying to increase the humidity in my office where I do most of my growing. I grow Dracula orchids which, when it comes to humidity, are relatively easy since they’re in a terrarium (I keep it at about 90%). But the RH in my house is usually about 25% in the winter (I’m in Washington DC). Getting that up to 40 – 50% is really challenging. I’ve been trying to avoid using a humidifier because they need to be cleaned and sterilized so often (at least weekly). I’m currently experimenting with a timed misting machine, but I haven’t gotten it perfected just yet. You’re lucky you’re able to maintain such good relative humidity. My house and general location are terrible for growing orchids, but I refuse to give up. 🙂
Hello Danny, I love your articles because they´re so informative and you present things in an easy way. Also your orchids are so beautiful! Btw, got a miltoniopsis two weeks ago and I´m struggling. One of the flower spikes dried off already, buds on the second one wouldn´t open. Now the outer leaves started getting yellow and falling off (3 of them so far). I wonder if this is just a regular thing for milts to do? Or should I start worrying? Would it be better to cut the remaining spike? (Might it be humidity issues? The medium is definitely very moist, even a bit much for my taste ._. And I mist my orchids every day)
Wonderful article as usual! I was curious about just how concerned one should be about the cooling effect of evaporation with clay pots and or clay media, particularly on roots. Just how cold can the root area get, and when is it too cold for the orchid to thrive? I heard this can sometimes be a problem at night and/or in the winter. Thank you!
Dear Danny, my orchids were doing fine till we had a spell of very high humidity….80-90% both inside the lanai and outside. Now some of the phals have leaves with soft…seemingly water laden spots and leaves are turning yellow and dying….mostly from the oldest leaf to the most recent but also reverse…most recent & older leaves..for a few. What should I do to help my orchids survive? The cattleyas seem ok…sprouting new growth but my other orchids are not happy. I usually water all the plants every 2 weeks by soaking and then discarding the water and letting them dry out again.
I got a question. If you keep your humidity at 50 or 60 % and you want to keep the air circulating. Do you just keep that air circulatiing with humidity range only or do you want fresh air that may not be as humid to circulate through. I think I read that at night the humidity should be a little less bring that it should be cooler. So Im wondering I should keep a humid environment with a small fan just to keep the humid air moving then perhaps turn the humidifier off at night then either circulate that air only or maybe blow it out with fresh air completely at night the resume with humidity during the day? What about periodic fresh air during the day? A humid environment will always have the conditions for molds and stuff just a matter of how much control you have for keeping you levels minimal
Hi Danni! I just wanna know if a broken pieces of clay pots can be used as a medium for orchids. will it work similar to hydrotons or any clay mediums? I really want to change my medium for my entire collection to make my life easier. however, there’s no available clay medium in my area so I’m planning to break pots into smaller pieces and use it as a media instead. I have already commented this idea on one of your articles few days ago but it seems you missed it so I’m here again and waiting for your honest opinion 😀 thanks!
Your article explains so well why my Calathea’s weren’t too happy in my lounge, above a large open-top acquarium but also in the same room as a strong heat pump. I’ve got some leaf curling happening and I think it’s all about humidity. They’re currently on a pebble tray in another room…I have a peace lily, flamingo lily and arrowhead plant in tall glass vessels with pumice and water and all so happy, producing leaves & flowers. I’m considering moving my precious calathea’s to the same set up.
I use pebble trays in my living room and it makes a huge difference, but only in fall/winter. By the way: I live in Germany. 👋 My plant journey began in spring 2020. Humidity level was between 55-65 %, very fine. But in fall I was shocked because humdity dropped to 38 % by using our heaters! I got several pebble trays for all my plants in that dry room. The trays are big in comparison with the pots. And humidity got to 55-60 % again. Even away from the plants were about 50 %. This was great along the winter. Our noses didn‘t get sore either. Now in spring again, there is no big difference to the last spring without pebble trays. At the moment 57 %. I kept them in their places, because I‘m to lazy. 😅 My theory is, pebble trays are good for rising up a low humidity. But if your humidity is high, it is more difficult to rise it even higher. And if you use a lot of trays like me, you rise the humidity level of the whole room as well (in my dry winter).
Wow. This is looking really expensive. One phalaenopsis plant, bark, moss, mister, cinnamon, pots, fungus spray, fertilizer, who knows what else, and I will probably fail again. My hubby says I am a fool. He may be right. What a waste of a lot of money, how do you afford it? How does anyone who isn’t well off. Maybe you better tell people exactly how much money they will throw away, just to try 1 friggin plant? That will just die anyway. Who can you trust to sell a healthy plant to you?