Phormiums are low-maintenance, architectural plants native to New Zealand, known by various names such as New Zealand Flax, Harakeke, and Wharariki. They require minimal care and are drought-resistant once established. To grow them, plant them in a sunny spot in fertile free-draining soil in spring or early summer. Keep the soil moist during dry spells for the first growing season, but pot-grown plants need little care.
Phormiums can be easily grown in containers using a rich, organic mix over traditional potting soil. To grow from seed, collect ripe seeds and sow them in spring, lightly covering the seeds with compost/vermiculite and keeping them at 18°C (64°F) in a propagator. Water the plant regularly to provide consistent soil for roots to establish. If planted indoors, keep the soil consistently moist.
Phormiums do not usually require pruning, but may need to remove dead or damaged leaves as they appear. Annual top dressings of finely chopped leaves are recommended. Watering well until established and then when normal rainfall isn’t sufficient. Use a watering cane to ensure proper drainage and prevent weeds from growing.
📹 How to Prune a Phormium (New Zealand Flax) by The Gardening Tutor – Mary Frost
All you wanted to do was make your Phormium plant shorter so you shortened the leaves. Uh Oh, the tips didn’t grow back.
Do you cut back Phormium?
Phormiums don’t require pruning, but a light tidy-up in spring is recommended. Remove dead or damaged leaves and cut out flowering stems if flowers have formed. These interesting and dramatic foliage plants can be grown in the ground in sun or partial shade with free-draining soil, or in containers in the UK. They can be grown in the ground or in containers, depending on the location and soil conditions.
What is the best fertilizer for phormium?
Phormiums are low-maintenance shrubs that can tolerate wet or dry conditions and can be grown in containers. They can tolerate sun to part shade and are relatively low maintenance. In spring, fertilizing with a standard all-purpose fertilizer is recommended, and dead leaves should be removed. New Zealand Flax plants are root hardy to -7ºC in their area but can sustain foliar damage during prolonged freezes below -2ºC.
To prevent wind damage, plants in containers should be protected below 0ºC and placed in an unheated garage or basement. Larger pots can be wrapped with bubble wrap or opaque black plastic, and foliage should be covered with two layers.
Why are my Phormium leaves turning brown?
Phormium plants are susceptible to various issues, including overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency, pests, and diseases. Overwatering can cause root rot, causing leaves to turn brown and mushy. Underwatering can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry. Phormium plants require a balanced fertilizer to thrive, and pests like aphids and mealybugs can cause leaves to turn yellow and become distorted. Leaf diseases like leaf spot can cause spots, blotches, or streaks on the leaves.
If new growth on a flax has been damaged by frost, trim off the damaged leaves after the risk of frost has passed. Frost cloth or a blanket can be used to protect the plant from further frosts. The Plant Company does not recommend applying fertilizer between mid-autumn and late winter, as it can create softer shoots more susceptible to frost.
Does Phormium like sun or shade?
Phormium, an evergreen herbaceous perennial, can grow in partial shade, but full sun is preferred for maximum vigor and vibrant color. It requires no pruning except for a light tidy in spring. Withered leaves can be removed by gently pulling or cutting close to the base. Phormium is fairly drought-tolerant, and container grown plants require regular watering throughout the growing season. Some cultivars, like ‘Jester’ and ‘Sundowner’, are half-hardy and require winter protection in frost-prone areas.
This may involve a deep, dry mulch around the crown, wrapping top growth with fleece, or moving container grown plants to an unheated greenhouse or conservatory. If leaving containers outside, wrap them in fleece.
Can you overwater Phormium?
Pot-grown phormiums require regular watering to maintain soil moisture, but avoid overwatering. Control-release fertiliser should be used each spring and potted into larger containers if roots are congested. Dead leaves and flower stems should be removed two or three times a year, and dead leaves should be pulled to prevent dead growth buildup. mature phormiums cannot be pruned, but can be reduced in bulk by dividing clumps.
Do Phormiums do well in pots?
Phormiums are exotic evergreen perennials with sword-like leaves and slender flower spikes. They are best grown in sunny borders and gravel gardens, but can also be used in containers. They form shapely domes with broad, upright or arching leaves ranging from yellow-green to bronze-purple. Mature clumps produce tall stems with yellow-green or red flowers in summer. Phormiums thrive in most free-draining soils and full sun, but may be slow to establish in light, dry soils and may suffer from winter damage due to hard frost.
Why are my Phormium leaves splitting?
Phormiums are plants that grow well in pots and can be purchased from garden centres or specialist nurseries. There are two main types: Phormium tenax and Phormium cookianum. Phormium tenax is compact and grows well in pots, while Phormium cookianum is large and makes a statement in the garden. Both types have light-green leaves and sometimes bear yellow-green stems.
Phormium cookianum has light-green leaves and sometimes bears yellow-green flowers. Phormium tenax is larger and more vigorous, with plain dark-green leaves with blue-green undersides. It can produce tall stems with reddish flowers.
There are several types of phormiums, such as Phormium ‘Chocomint’, Phormium ‘Jester’, Phormium ‘Maori Queen’, Phormium ‘Platt’s Black’, Phormium ‘Tricolor’, and Phormium ‘Yellow Wave’. Each type has its own characteristics and should be carefully selected for their health, resistance to pests, damage, and disease.
Will Phormium survive winter?
Phormiums should be planted in full sun and sheltered areas to maintain their attractive shape. They can survive temperatures as low as -5°C in winter, but not in areas with long cold spells. The ideal soil for phormiums is fertile, moisture-retentive, and free-draining. Organic matter like compost or soil conditioner can be added before planting. Dig a hole larger than the roots, remove the pot, unwind congested roots, and plant the phormium at ground level. Backfill with excavated soil and firm in using a boot.
Is Phormium a perennial?
Phormium tenax, also known as New Zealand flax, is an evergreen perennial native to New Zealand known for its attractive foliage. It features rigid, sword-shaped, linear, bright green leaves in erect clumps, with red-orange-edged margins and midribs. Variegated leaves are available in bronze and purple leaves, with some cultivars featuring pink, red, orange, or purple. Dark red flowers appear above the foliage on stout spikes, reaching up to 12 feet tall.
The plant’s name comes from the Greek word phormion, meaning “mat”, and its blooms are attractive to hummingbirds. However, it is important to watch out for mealybugs and slugs, as leaf spot can damage the foliage.
Will my Phormium recover?
In the event that temperatures do not remain at a sufficiently low level for an extended period, the upper portion of the plant may perish, while the roots may often survive. To ascertain whether the dead top is truly dead, it should be cut to the ground in mid-March. In the event that the roots remain viable, new stems will subsequently emerge.
📹 Phormium or Cordyline?
What is the difference between Phormiums & Cordylines? Phormiums (also known at New Zealand Flax) and Cordylines are …
great article, exactly what i was looking for. many thanks! 1:00: sharp hand pruners and harvesting hook. wear thick gloves, long sleeve shirts and safety glasses for protection 1:45: trimming to shorten the leaves. * don’t cut the tips straight across! the leaves will never regrow the beautiful shaped tips. * instead, cut close to the base, at a diagonal. the idea is to completely cut off the too-long-leaf, to encourage new leaves to fill in. 3:45: examples of incorrectly trimmed leaves 4:00: chop off the tips of the leaves that are too tall you want to remove, then follow them down to the base and cut it completely off at the base 5:00: cutting off completely dead leaves. if you can’t pull them out, cut them at a diagonal as close to the base a possible 7:00: using the harvesting hook to cut off excess leaves that would otherwise make the bush more wide 8:00: finished results. no cut tips! 8:49: before/after 9:00: extra tip: variegated leaves
You should always leave the middle blade (rito) and the 2 either side of the new middle blade (awhi rito), they will ensure the fan will remain healthy. Consider the middle blade the baby and the 2 blades either side the parents they are to protect the new leaf in the middle. Any rau (leaf) on the outer of the 3 centre of the fan can be removed.
Great article and very useful information – thanks for posting. Before perusal this, I always felt guilty trying to keep my phormium at a more manageable size than it wanted to grow, but now I don’t feel so bad. I’ve learned (the hard way) to prune down close to the base just as you show, and then wait before removing the rest of the leaf. These are really tough plants, and trying to pull off a leaf usually results in pulling up an entire section of the plant instead. Even the dead leaves don’t always come off without a fight. And just as you said, the pruners need to be really sharp. There is not a more difficult and frustrating job in gardening than trying to prune a phormium with dull blades…
I’ve been trying to find out how to prune variegated phormium. I live in an apartment block of 3yrs old with probably 10 of these plants. We have a ‘gardener’ who has cut some of them off at the top! Although I am 88 I still love gardening, so having seen your article, I am going to ‘have a go’ at tidying one up your way. They have all got rather big, even though the ground is poor with a lot of chalk. So thank you for your article.
Hi Mary- I just finished my pruning and my two plants look fabulous! By the way, you mentioned something in this article about addressing the variegated phormium spears reverting to green, but I was not able to find anything on that in your library. I have a pair of potted phormium plants that had gone to a pale lime green after ~4 years, but now I’m excited to see that they are sending up variegated spears again. Could it be because I gave them some light fertilizing? Or?? Any advice here appreciated, as I’d like to encourage the trend. 😉
Great article! We have not paid attention to our Phormium and it is now quite large and tall, over 6ft. It looks like we have several large clumps, too. IIt is now crowding out other plants around it. So, our question is how do we reduce it’s size overall? We’d like it shorter, not sure we can effectively trim because so many fronds are so tall. We’d also like to reduce the width. Can we cut out whole clumps? What do you suggest? Thanks so much for providing great information in the article and, hopefully, answering this question.
Not sure if you will respond as I appreciate this article is from 2 years ago (!) I love Phormiums and have a phormium sundowner but for some reason the leaves are flopping/drooping all over the place and can’t maintain a upward structure, often the leaves criss-cross over each other too. Any ideas on how to fix that and why it is?
Hi, I have a few Flax plants in my front yard. I just recently moved into a new home and haven’t dealt with these type of plants before. I have noticed that the Tips are drying up and turning brown. Any advice on how to prevent this on new growths? I live in California and our summers get pretty hot here. Thanks