How To Maintain A Moving Plant?

Moving houseplants can be a daunting task, especially when you have a green family to consider. Atlas Van Lines’ comprehensive plant moving guide offers tips on packing, moving, and ensuring plants stay healthy during the move. To prepare your plants for moving day, follow these steps:

  1. Unpack your plants as soon as possible, removing them through the bottom of the box to prevent breakage. Place plants back in pots that are the same size as the ones before the move. Stabilize the plants by not moving them around until they become acclimated. If your plant suffers from transplant shock after the move, give it a few days to recover.

  2. Use sufficient packaging, as fragile foliage is especially vulnerable in cars, vans, and airplanes. Secure packaging helps plants arrive in one piece.

  3. Water your plants normally, taking care not to overwater. Too much water can cause plants to freeze in cold weather or promote fungus growth in warm weather. If you cannot bring your potted plants with you, take a few cuttings instead and wrap them in wet moss and newspaper to help them survive a few days.

  4. Stabilize the pot, keeping it as upright as possible while preventing things from crushing the foliage. It’s best to move plants during the dormant season or when they are less active to reduce the shock of relocation and allow them to recover more easily.

  5. Incorporate plant care into your moving checklist and understand the rules. Protect your plants with proper packing, preening and pruning, removing dead or damaged leaves, wrapping cuttings in wet moss and newspaper, and placing them in unsealed bags.

  6. Post-move care: Monitor your plants’ health closely and resist the temptation to fertilize immediately. A plant is always easier to transport in a pot than in a glass, and stop watering them 24 to 48 hours before moving them.


📹 9 BEGINNER Mistakes To Avoid When Moving Plants From Soil to Leca

In this video, I’ll share with you 9 mistakes beginners make and should be avoided when moving plants from soil to Leca.


How do you take care of a network plant?

The Calathea Network plant thrives in a stable environment that mimics its natural tropical habitat, providing bright, indirect light, consistent warmth, and high humidity. Rotate the plant once a month to ensure even growth and keep the leaves clean to enhance photosynthesis. Maintain a consistent temperature between 65°F and 80°F with high humidity, either by grouping it with other plants or using a pebble tray filled with water. Avoid positioning the Calathea Network near air conditioning or heating vents, as these can dry out the air and cause temperature fluctuations.

Under ideal conditions, the Calathea Network can reach up to 2 feet and spread up to 2 feet wide. Its compact and bushy growth habit makes it an ideal addition to indoor spaces, providing vibrant foliage without overwhelming the surroundings. To encourage optimal growth, provide consistent care, proper watering, and maintain high humidity. Occasional pruning is recommended to remove dead or damaged leaves, enhancing the plant’s appearance and supporting the development of new foliage.

Do potted plants get stressed when moved?
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Do potted plants get stressed when moved?

Moving can stress plants, so it’s crucial to monitor for signs of stress like wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth. Provide extra care, including proper watering and light, to help them adjust.

Preparing your plants for the move involves pruning and cleaning them a week before moving to make them easier to transport and recover from damage. Water your plants thoroughly two to three days before moving day to ensure they are hydrated but not overly wet, which could make the pots heavier and messier to handle. This will help ensure your plants arrive safely at your new home.

How do I keep my plant alive?

To keep house plants alive, use good potting soil, choose the right planter, provide adequate sunlight, water regularly, repot plants at the right time, provide adequate humidity, use the right fertilizer, and clean your plants regularly. If you’re struggling to keep your plants alive, don’t give up. Common reasons for plant death include poor soil quality, lack of sunlight, insufficient watering, incorrect repotting, insufficient humidity, incorrect fertilizer use, and regular cleaning. Instead, buy easy-to-care-for plants that can thrive in your home. Remember, the key to keeping plants alive is to follow these simple steps and enjoy their beauty.

Why are all my plants dying after moving?

Transplant shock, also referred to as environmental shock, is a phenomenon that occurs when a plant is relocated and subsequently faces a significant challenge in adjusting and adapting to the new environment.

How can I heal my plant?
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How can I heal my plant?

This post provides 13 ways to revive dead or dying plants. It suggests identifying the plant’s death, removing dead foliage, checking for overwatering, assessing thirstiness, adjusting sun food, determining the plant’s need for extra humidity, and providing additional nutrition. It emphasizes that even low-maintenance plants can die, and it’s important to remember that plants can still grow if given proper care. Common reasons for plant death include overwatering, inadequate sun, environmental changes, pests, or nutrient deficiencies.

However, if these issues are caught early, they can be resolved and the plant can begin to grow again. It’s important to remember that even the most low-maintenance plants can die, and it’s important to be patient and understanding.

Should I spray my plants with water?

Spritzing can provide moisture to plants, but it can harm them unless they thrive in humidity. Plants need a thorough soak, allowing water to flow through and out of their pot. The best way to water plants is to avoid watering the top of the plant and water directly to its root ball. If growing plants outside, a drip irrigation system is recommended. This system is buried underground with emitters at the root ball of each plant, dispersing water directly to the plant’s roots, making it more efficient and better for the plants.

How do you revive a dying house plant?

The presence of yellow leaves is indicative of overwatering, therefore it is essential to ensure adequate drainage and reduce the frequency of watering. It is recommended that dying foliage be trimmed with pruning snips. In the event that the foliage displays indications of burning or scorching, it is possible that the plant is receiving an excessive amount of direct sunlight. It is recommended that the plant be relocated to a different area or window to allow for the filtering of sunlight. In the event that the leaf tips exhibit brown and desiccated characteristics, it is possible that the humidity or soil levels may be insufficient.

Is it okay to move plants around for sunlight?

The text recommends that novice observers be permitted to rest in indirect bright light situations initially, allowing them to gradually become accustomed to direct light, and then to adjust to the prevailing conditions within the observation area. Once the organism has undergone the necessary acclimation period, it can be relocated. Additionally, the text notes that JavaScript may be disabled or blocked by extensions and that the browser in question does not support cookies.

How do you stop a plant from dying?

To revive a plant, check for underwatering by soaking the pot in water and adopting a consistent watering schedule. Remove dead leaves, which may die due to improper care, using plant shears to remove them with no hope of survival. Focus on recovery rather than keeping dying leaves alive. Cut back dead stems to keep healthy growth, with at least a few inches of stems reaching above the soil. If the problem isn’t watering, consider the sunlight the plant receives, as it may need extra sunlight or prefer a spot further away from the window. It takes time for plants to respond appropriately to good lighting conditions. Remember to keep the plant healthy and thriving by addressing any issues promptly.

How long does it take for a plant to recover from transplant shock?
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How long does it take for a plant to recover from transplant shock?

Transplant shock is a common challenge faced by gardeners when planting new plants or moving them to new locations. To help plants recover from transplant shock, it is essential to provide consistent care, such as adequate watering, proper sunlight exposure, and regular monitoring for signs of stress or nutrient deficiencies. By understanding the causes of transplant shock and using transplant fertilizers and triple-mix soil, gardeners can provide plants with the necessary nutrients, moisture retention, and soil structure for a smoother recovery.

However, it may take several weeks for plants to fully bounce back and thrive in their new environment. Nurturing plants through the recovery process with transplant fertilizers and triple-mix soil will result in healthier, more resilient green companions in the long run.

Is it okay to keep moving plants?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Is it okay to keep moving plants?

Some plant species, including philodendrons, monstera deliciosa, pothos, and ZZ plant, demonstrate greater resilience and can withstand frequent relocation. Conversely, other plant species may necessitate more meticulous care and attention.


📹 HOW TO MOVE PLANTS – MOVING TIPS 2021

Moving Tips the number one place for all your moving tips and hacks! We provide you with everything you need to know when …


How To Maintain A Moving Plant
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18 comments

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  • i feel like i hit the jackpot with all your wealth of experience and knowlegde with LECA you keep it short sweet and directly to the point giving me the reasonings behind your strategy – i see many successul scenerios ahead for me with my plants. . . so many thanks to you i absolutely appreciate your time put into your helpful articles.

  • Hi Nora, I have about 30 plants (philodendron/ peperomia / pothos/ succulents/ lime / orchid) – a whole range. All moved from soil to Leca. Your articles helped me greatly in my journey. Especially your initial article on the long method when everything clicked in place! Thanks so much for smoothing the learning curve 😊

  • Very precisely on how to transition your plant from soil to leca. It’s not just taking the plant and put it in Leca you have to follow the steps to be successful and ask that I’m pretty sure you will become an expert even though you take chances to lose some plants, I am very happy that I saw this tonight. It was very well explained. Thank you Miss Nora.

  • I’m so excited to find someone who is so refreshing and actually talks about what I’m wanting to learn !! Your awesome,,I’m waiting on my leca to get here so I can get started I have alot of plants growing just in water,,and I have some of my plants for yrs in soil I have been wanting to get away from soil and I have learned alot from perusal your articles! THANK YOU!

  • So I am really new to LECA and travelling so much so many of my house plants have suffered. To stsrt I have some baby plants, and I will be working with just 3 to begin with, and then have a priority list of others to do if I am successful. Thanks for sharing your experience on Gardening Australia and I love seeing your passion for making us better gardeners.

  • You have helped me so much! Thank you so much. I am in the process of transferring all my plants over to leca and so far knock on wood. It’s all gone well. I’m really glad I did the long method on one of them because it looked like it had such great roots and I was ready to put it in leca, and when I pulled it out of the water all the roots came off! so now I get to put it back in the propagating solution and give it some more time but if I had not done that and had put it straight in leca, I wouldn’t of known that it didn’t have any good roots and probably would have rotted!

  • I have tried pothos, philodendrons, aglonemas so far. I haven’t faced any issues in soil to leca system. All those in leca are doing well. I do not have fancy nutrition specifically for hydroponic system yet. I simply give sea weed and balanced NPK in diluted forms. I don’t check pH of the system. My plants first grew water roots, then secondary and then they are growing leaves. I wash and refresh my leca every weekend. Some roots have grown into reservoir and some love in leca. I let plants do whatever they are happy in. I just keep them in bright indirect light. So far so good.

  • Hola Nora! Carlos here. Transferred Dieffenbachia yesterday to Leca because of you. Yes, I have watched other articles on soil to leca but you are indeed LA Reina 👸🏽 👑. I guess I have about 200 plants here at Serenity Garden Aviary. Purchased 10L bag of leca for $17. Currently only plan to transfer problem kids to Leca. Monitoring the Dumbcane in ICU to ensure this transfer is successful. Perhaps will try a baby Low Rider Alocasia next. It has been living in water and perlite for two months. Thanks for all the great tips and such great content. Always 💯

  • Thanks so much for this article. I’m about to start using leca so I’ve been binge perusal your articles. Question that you touched on but didn’t fully answer. Can I just mix up a huge batch of nutrient water and store it, then use it say over a month? Would I have to check the pH each time I use it? And any idea whats the max time the nutrient water would last sitting in a plastic container somewhere in my house? Thank you!

  • Hello Queen! Thanks for sharing that info. With so many of us trying to find the right medium for our houseplants, you provided vital info for us who are transitioning from soil, pon, Fluval, etc. to Leca. I’m doing that only with the hoyas because they can be quite fussy. I make sure to remove as much soil matter before adding to leca. I don’t want to lose anymore hoyas!!! I love that you have African violets in leca! Who wudda thunk? I fail at that plant but I will try the leca method. Thanks again for the tips! Dee, New York USA

  • Okay. One thing I need to know is… can any plant be successful in leca? I’ve transitioned some to leca no problem but they’re plants that I’ve heard of being “easier” in leca.. but whatever the plants you dont hear about like the bat flower?! Im way too scared to move her to leca because it’s still new territory for me

  • Hi nora if I make a batch of solution how long does it last before goin off ? Do I have to refrigerate it ? I have bought a water solution an my leca balls . I also have a silica solution I’ve been using on my plants . Now can I add my silica to my hydro solution or do I have to buy a roots solution? I really want to try this leca as am sick of plant soil spills an gnats 😂thank u Nora ❤

  • Hi there, I’m new to LECA, and it’s only two weeks. I think I made many mistakes by perusal other ‘advice’ on YouTube, and I feel like losing all my plants. My Peace Lily has gone into total shock, and I do not have hope that it will recover =( I follow ‘advice’ not to put any nutrients first 2-4 weeks and just soak LECA in water during the transfer to LECA. After moving it into LECA not to water it and let it dry for a week (I know it’s stupid advice) to avoid root rot. I ended up taking Peace Lily and putting it into the water with nutrients and hope for ‘resurrection’. The other plants, I rinsed through and put them in a water reservoir but I’m noticing a lot of yellow leaves. Is there a chance I can save my plants?

  • Hi again Nora. After perusal you and your beautiful plants I have started transplanting my plants to leca. I have done quite a few now but need to buy more leca. The soil ninja site I buy from sell so many different substrates and I was looking at the fine and course substrate which I believe is Pon. I wondered what your thoughts in this substrate is and if you have used it at all. Are there any benefits from this compared to the clay balls. Do you still need to use a reservoir the same way you do with the balls? So many questions but I was thinking of trying this instead of the balls this time but wondered if you had any advice or recommendations on this please. Xx

  • Hello Nora! I am new to your website and I have been thinking of making the transfer for some of my plants but not sure which nutrient solution to get. Do you have any recommendations? I see you mentioned a couple different types for different things. If you haven’t made a article on that could you? And if you have could you point me in the right direction please and thank you!! 🤗🤗

  • Great info! You know I just got a pretty big ficus lyrata (3 plants in one, 1,50 meter tall) I’ve had very good luck at transitioning medium sized ficus (lyrata, elástica, ruby, tineke, altisima) before, doing it directly … but I’m concerned about this one. I really don’t want to kill it. I’m trying to find a pot that suits the situation, but should I put it in clonex clone solution for a week first? It’s gonna be hard since the plant is pretty big I don’t know how I would keep the plant standing lol 😂

  • What about a monstera cutting that has roots about 2 inches long? Meaning they were reaching for the soil and now, I have it in nutrient solution, but because the stem below where the roots are is almost 4 inches long, to get the roots growing out of the node, I have to have a lot of the stems under water. Is that OK?

  • Very disappointed to scroll the description box and find out that you aren’t crediting a single content creator that you used footage from. The beautiful Monstera Deliciosa seen with the blonde woman, I recognize, is from a website called Planterina. Looking foward to you guys adding the due credits!!