How To Hydrate Jars Of Mushrooms?

To water mushrooms, use a spraying bottle filled with clean and non-chlorinated water.Spritz the mushrooms to give them moisture all over, giving around five spritzes. Alternatively, spray directly under the mushrooms. Master the art of jar-based mycology with this comprehensive guide.

For fast and contamination-free extraction, make your own liquid culture lid from start to finish. Inoculating grain jars is simple once you have a viable mushroom culture ready to go. Rye is ideal for this as it holds more water than most other grains and contains lots of nutrition for the mushroom mycelium. Place the mushrooms into a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Ladle into canning jars and top with water if needed, leaving 1 inch of head space.

To make grain spawn jars, craft grain jar lids. Canning mushrooms at home is safe and easy with a Pressure Canner, canning jars, and USDA-developed directions. To get the moisture content correct, rinse and clean the grains, soak in water for 12-24 hours, and cook them for 15-20 minutes to absorb water.

If you prefer to steam the mushrooms, fill a pot with 2 inches of water, place a rack in the pot, cover all jars with tin foil, pour enough water into a large pot, and drain the water off the grain or wood. Avoid leaving any sitting water in the jars.


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How To Hydrate Jars Of Mushrooms
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  • Excellent article. Used an old pickle jar and some brown rice. Drilled hole in top of pickle jar for poly batting (from old jacket) and smaller hole for syringe of spores. Don’t have a pressure cooker so swished boiling water around jar and dipped lid in boiling water. Prepared brown rice as shown. Put cool rice in just sterilized (I hoped) jar and pushed a little batting through lid and put on. Injected spores and put scotch tape over syringe hole. Didn’t have much hope but already had pickle jar and brown rice is pretty cheap. A week later saw a little mistiness on inside of jar, thought it might be mold but let it be. By a week and a half jar is filled with mycelium and a day later mycelium is starting to climb inside of jar. Added it to substrate the next day and it was already starting to fruit a little. Here’s hoping for a good mushroom crop. Thx so much for the article!

  • With oyster mushrooms you can skip a LOT of steps, because they are so virulent they will outcompete everything else in the grain/substrate. You can just boil the grain, then cool and drain it and add the culture straight to it, no sterilising needed. You can even use the ‘stem butts’ of very fresh oyster mushrooms in place of culture, which allows true self sufficiency at a home scale. You can EVEN skip the gain altogether and spawn them directly on shredded carboard. Oyster mushrooms are AWESOME.

  • As a new mushroom grower have to say thank you.. As an old canner Do be aware your elevation affects how much pressure is used to sterilize ie in NC foothills once it hits ten then you start the timer for the 90 mins. Chart comes with the canner and of course you can google it. Hope that helps someone.

  • 2:13 Just to add here, the ratio of volume expansion between dry and hydrated grains can vary a lot by type of grain, specific brand/vendor, soak time and temperature, etc. For example, the grains you’re using here expand by 300%, but popcorn would be more like 30% – and that would still vary a lot by variety of corn and the vendor. Basically, you’ll have to figure out the specific expansion ratio for the grain spawn and recipe you’re using for yourself. Every time you change any of it, do a test batch – fill up a bunch of jars with dry grains, measure the total volume, hydrate them using your recipe, measure the new total volume; wet volume / dry volume = expansion ratio. You could also just not care and guesstimate every time, but that easily results in either not having as much spawn as you need, or wasting and throwing out excess which can really add up over time. TL;DR – Test out and write down your expansion ratios for the specific grains you’re using. Next to zero extra work, and it’s highly useful data for planning out exactly how much grain you need for every batch.

  • My GF’s name is ‘Jackie’. We went to ‘thrift shops’ one after the other looking for a pressure canner/cooker. We found lots of the little stovetop ‘cookers’ everywhere and on the 5th store, a Goodwill store, we found a Presto 23-quart pressure canner exactly like the one in the article. It was lightly used and in the original box from the 1990’s complete with the instruction book. It cost $17.99 . The same cooker new is about $120. The name “Jackie” was written on the box by whoever owned it before which is super freaky.

  • Tape a few quarters to the rocker, this will allow it to go up to 18 or 19 psi before it starts rattling, allowing for a quiet sterilization cycle. Also shake and toss your boiled grains in a strainer a lot when you first drain them, the more you shake them the more steam can escape all the grains as opposed to just the grain on the outside surface of the pile.

  • Hi I am new here! I’m not sure if anyone has asked this yet (tried scrolling to see but so many comments), but how long is the shelf life for one of these grain culture jars? Like do they have to be used as soon as they are fully cultivated? Or can they sit for like a week, a month… or even a year? Thank you in advance! <3

  • Huh, the draining in sink method is interesting, haven’t heard that before. That’s the step that always gives me the most grief, even though it should be the most passive lol. Putting grains in strainers, I feel like it takes several hours for them to get dry on the outside. There’s so much steam trapped inside. Gotta try this way

  • There’s a safer (but still cheap) way to innoculate that doesn’t require a flowhood: A still air box (SAB). Pick up the biggest clear plastic totebox you can find at Walmart or the nearest supermarket, take a metal coffee can, use it to trace circles on the SAB where you want the armholes, put the bottom of the coffee can on a hot burner, then use mitts to grab it and carefully press & twist through the circles. When working the SAB: you’ll want to move carefully so you don’t stir up the air too much. Wear gloves, sanitize with alcohol inside the box, flame sterilize tools outside the box before moving them inside (in that order!) and don’t put your hands directly over anything you want to stay clean. If you want to learn how to use agar, these will be essential skills to practice. Cheers!

  • Thanks for the great article. I’m a novice at this so maybe someone can answer a “stupid” question. I noticed the dual holes in the top of the jar. One for the polyfil/air vent, the other for the high temp silicone. Why couldn’t you use the polyfill port to also inject the grain spawn? There by reducing the number of holes needed in the lid.

  • tips ive learned through trial and error: when making the holes you can simply use a hole punch(er) and ditch the drill when making the injection ports use a wet paper towel to shape the blob of rtv red high temperature silicone aka gasket marker if you cant find it at home depot or lowes give auto zone or oreilys a trip! for the gas exchange hole id say dont use the pillow stuffing fibers but use instead some micro pore tape and if you can get some plastic mason jar lids id go with that over the metal to avoid rust instead of letting it soak overnight let it simmer for maybe 5-15 mins or just until its soft on the outside but hard in the middle when your draining them use a sifter the metal kitchen ones its very helpful use tinfoil over the top when sterilizing when injection the liquid culture dont bother heating the tip of the needle til its red hot unless your using it for 2-3+ jars but other than that it comes sterile make sure to store it in a fridge it can last up to a year to a year and a half when refrigerated i shake 3 times during colonizing but that is up to you have fun growing! and stay safe everyone

  • Really good. 2 Questions: Do you have a article of multiplying your mushrooms? I mean, getting the spores. And question n.2: I live in a very hot humid environment. I have tried this 3 times and the jar gets all white, but the shrooms never pop out, never flush. Are there like cheap fridges or something that I could use? Also, once the mushrooms pop out do they still need cool weather to survive? My avg high temp in summer is 88 F and 82 in winter.

  • In one of your articles, you mention adding: “I like to use about a tablespoon of gypsum and a cup of coffee. ” Is this a cup of ground coffee or liquid coffee? That said you do not mention this in your articles, so I’m wondering if you still do this in addition to the gypsum. Thanks for all the great info Tony !

  • Hey Tony. Thank you for your super informative articles! I am becoming an avid mushroom grower due to perusal your vids. I have a quick question. I started soaking my rye grains while I was waiting for amazon to deliver my mason jars and high temp silicone. I just got everything today but started soaking my grains last night. I’m worried I might have started soaking them a little bit early due to the fact that I have to wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry. Do you think it would be okay to soak and cook the grains and put them in the jars with foil covering them while waiting for the silicone to dry completely, then throw them in the pressure cooker? Just concerned about the grains sitting too long. If you could let me know that would be great. Thank you so much!

  • As always, I love your articles. They really helped me learn how to grow mushrooms and cultivate them. I did have one question. I often run into a problem with doing my own grain spawn, which is after about a week or two the mycelium will just stop growing. I don’t get this issue when I buy grain spawn from other places, so I know it’s not the liquid culture, and I always keep it in the same environment. Only difference is that it’s in a jar instead of a bag. Any ideas what would cause this?

  • Thank you for making this article. Excellent coverage for a new mushroom hobbyist! I am however an experienced canner of over 60 years, using Presto canners (well I started when they were still called National!). Your jiggler is rocking a bit too hard. Turn heat down a half turn at a time for about 4 or 5 minutes to stabilize heat and monitor jiggle. This should have a very gentle rock and not be loud. Also, you didn’t specifically mention it but I did notice you correctly had 3″ of water in bottom (3 qts for the 23 qt Presto). Viewers should follow their own manufacturers recommendations on water level. Again, many thanks for this mushroom spawn article. I was very curious about making my own.

  • Hi Tony. This is a great technique for spawning spores. It is now my go to method. The self-healing, hi-temp silicone is brilliant. Rye works great, too. I did decide to invest in a pressure canner. It makes a big difference. I have a couple questions. The self-healing lids are easy to make, but are they reusable? Also, do you recommend any special methods of cleaning the spawn jars to reuse them? Is running them through the dishwasher on “high-temp wash” and “sani-rinse” adequate?

  • I have tried numerous times to do oyster mushrooms from store bought mushrooms and failed miserably every time. After several more years of reading and learning I tried yet again two weeks ago and voila it is working friggin great this time. Before I tried bags, jars, coffee cans and using grain spawn. This time I decided to go small and used large pill bottles. I washed them thoroughly and the put boiling water into them. I boiled carboard and egg crate in a pan of water, then used some old clean pant leg material to press the paper between to get it to the right moisture content. Then I used some oyster mushroom that I bought at the supermarket and carefully cut away the outer portions of the mushroom with an alcohol coated razor blade and mixed in layer after of mushroom and paper into the pill bottles. Then I carefully drilled about 6 small 3/32 inch holes surrounding a seventh hole into the side of each pill bottle and place some “medipore” (soft stretchy cloth like bandage material) over the holes. Then I put those into an old coffee can with a lid which also had 7 small holes and medipore tape in the lid and put those about 6 feet in front of the fireplace on a shelf on the wall at about 8 feet high and voila…. It is really awesome because I can actually see through the side of the pill bottles and see the growth of the mycelium without opening it up at all. They are doing great.. I am a bit jazzed at finally seeing some success.. Now I want to try some portabella mushrooms so I need to figure out the grain spawn idea.

  • Hi, im new. Could you do article of how to use spawn bag after fully colonized please. Any special steps to do not to do. Best practices. Adding to this works well or this does not work so well. Can i transfer to outdoors in wild? Maybe under pile of leaves outdoors. Jars into somthing else. I said i was new to this. article request. Thank You

  • Just found your website, mna. Great intro. I’ve never done this before but am intrigued and wanting to try. Are there any that are more beginner-friendly than others? I love Lion’s Mane but would a beginner do well with that or something less exotic? That Sakura Oyster looks fantastic as well! Any advice? Cheers!

  • Knowledgeable sir, if you ever stand in front of that glorious piece of art again please stand off to the side slightly. This will create a visual loop within the article creating unique points of interests that draw the viewer around the frame. It’s a glorious art and I want to see it and your face. Great lesson. Thank you for your teachings. You’ve earned a subscriber.

  • Is the Laminar Flow Hood used/necessary in any of the stages beyond the inoculation phase? I’m just getting into mushroom growing now, and am still trying to figure out what all I need. If I use this method for inoculation of the grain spawn, will I need a flow hood for the fruiting stage afterward, or will I not need one at all?

  • Tony, thanks for great explanations!!! I do have a question about the All American sterilizer: I notice the electrical ones have a knob. Do you think that means you can decrease the temp to the ” 160’s” ? …. In this way a single piece of equipment can be used to sterilize and also pasteurize!!! I asked the company but got no response…. Thanks in advance

  • Today I made to much oat grains. I put the leftover in a 1 gal ziplock freezer bag. Can I use the grains about 3 months later and should I freeze them ? This will be my 2nd attempt to grow LM. I used some old wheat that I had as food storage in #10 sealed cans. I don’t know why the mycellium didn’t grow out. Maybe the wheat was just to old or the LC syringe was bad because they was selling it for 10.00 Hope it works this time, bought the LM syringe for 18.00

  • I want to stage my harvests so I have mushrooms fruiting every other week. I can keep the spawn in my utility room (appx 60 degrees F) until it fully colonizes. Once it reaches full colonization, if I don’t use it right away, would the fridge be a better place to store it? How long will the grain spawn last? By the way, thank you for such clear and concise instructions.

  • There is a lot of talk about creating a sterile environment (even lighting the needle on fire), what keeps the contaminants from coming in through the pillow stuffing or larger hole here. Also, what happened if the tinfoil doesn’t keep the pillow stuffing dry during the sterilization process? Is it still okay to move forward?

  • This is an excellent introduction to the process, for the small home grower. However: “90 minutes at 15psi,” while the current standard advice, really isn’t a precise measure of temperature, which is what sterilizes the grain – and also alters the nutritional profile of that grain. Without temperature control, grain usually gets scorched to some degree. Mycelium responds to overcooked grain (its food) like we do: it eats around it, resulting in weak, striated, or complete lack of, spawn. Often, bacterial colonies or trichoderma take advantage of such weak spawning, to gain a foothold – whereas a fast, robust mycelium strike (from optimized nutrition) would have prevented that. We’ve found that by monitoring temperature within the pressurized sterilization chamber, and using that information in a feedback loop to control the temperature source, it eliminates weak spawning, wasted grain, and inefficient energy usage, and results in higher mushroom yields. Our strains aren’t “finicky” or “unpredictable” – they each have specific nutritional preferences – preferences that even the best growers, in the current state of our industry, tend to ignore. But this is changing. “The Big Fun Guy” company makes a temperature probe and hot plate controller (called “The Control Unit”) that fits pressure cookers, allowing precise control over temperature, and with it, the nutritional profile of the grain. The Big Fun Guy’s “Big Unit” handles 50 gallons of grain (with an 80 gallon option). A dream tool for cultivators who are serious about making a living from their mushroom grow operation, it has two, moveable, temperature probes, and utilizes the passive thermodynamics of an insulated chamber, in an automated, “set it and forget it” process.

  • Hi, nice article as always. man I can’t find someone who send liquid culture or spawn to morocco, I’m looking for lion’s mane, turkey tail and cordyceps, I want to give to someone who had a stroke, do you have any contraindication or someone tried it before ( I talk about a double extract lions mane mycelium and fruit body)

  • This was super helpful!! I’m currently planning on doing experiments that involve mushrooms and I needed to learn how to grow them quick. This was super easy to follow and it uses resources that almost anybody can get. Two questions I have though, when you refer to a “clean room” what exactly do you man? Like a room with not much dust or a space that’s simply organized? Second after the mycelium is solid or fully formed (if that’s the correct terminology) what’s next? Do you have a article following that that shows how to let the mushrooms fully grow? Sorry if those are dumb question I just want to ensure success on my mushrooms growth! Thank you for the wonderful article! 😊

  • A few questions for you sir. How much LC ml do you put in each jar roughly? was the total spawn time 2-3 weeks? How long can your colonized jars last if you want to put it off for a bit, can you fridge them into dormancy? or is it best to colonize the bulk substrate blocks and store those a bit like store bought mushroom kits. Im trying to get a feel for the timeline for the various steps and shelf life on those steps. Thanks! appreciate the content.

  • Hi, I love your articles but I cannot find any information on the internet how to introduce the grain spawn to the growing bags and how much grain spawn you need per kg to start the mushroom growing. It would be nice if you can let me know or show a article how to do this. Thanks very much and keep up the good work.

  • Thanks for another! Although I’ve always inoculated down the sides using the same circular motion that you use, I often wonder why not just straight down the center. Then when it’s obviously colonized to the outside you’re certain it’s fully colonized as opposed to guessing or waiting several additional days to further be certain that it’s colonized to the inside where you can’t really see. Never seen that explained elsewhere, but that’s the way everyone seems to do it.

  • Thanks for this. I have done some grain spawn by putting it in an Instant Pot with excess water for 5 minutes, and immediately releasing the pressure, then air drying it like you show. It seems to give the right amount of moisture without bursting any grain. I hope I didn’t miss this in the article, but I was wondering if you see any benefit from adding gypsum or a small amount of sawdust to the grain spawn. Some folks seem to say that a small amount of a future substrate will help the speed of growth in the end. And gypsum for the sulfur. I guess I’ve done it without gypsum before, too, but I don’t think I have done it enough to notice a difference. Others say add 1/2 teaspoon of lime per jar to keep the pH from dropping too low. Any thoughts on that stuff? Thanks again. Very straightforward articles with subtleties on the art explained well.

  • Man I love your articles. When I flip the tv on the first thing I check is to see if you have a new article lol. Anyway, would you ever consider doing a article on grain spawn to substrate? Using maybe a 6-20qt tub? I am a beginner. The PF Tek seems to be a little weak sauce in my opinion as far as growing potential. Learning how to grow in a tub would be ideal. Anyway, thanks again for the great content brother. You are a good dude

  • Those Microppose hydrophobic adhesive filtration disks are awesome! Ive been using them for about 2yrs now on my PP5 grain jar lids. Being hydrophobic you dont have to ever worry about the filter disks being a vector for contamination. I ordered several sets, because I thought I would be replacing them, but theyve been through dozens of PC runs and are still perfect! I havent had to replace a single one, and not a single one has come off my lids either. I HIGHLY recommend them, I recommend them so much that I promote them in my articles for free. I was unaware that the purge sequence on the PC run is unnecessary, I will definitely try skipping it and see if my tam rate increases. Btw, the foil is completely unnecessary as well. I quit using foil to cover my lids last year, and my tam rate did not increase in the least. Same with gypsum in my sub/grains/LC, quit using it and absolutely nothing changed, I cant for the life of me what its purpose is in this hobby. My tam rate is still virtually zero, and there has been no loss in weight on harvest. I dont see the benefit, so its no longer an additive in my materials. I believe the point you made about light is s fallacy, an old wives tale. I run 2 6500k LEDs in my grow space that the jars are exposed to 12hrs a day, and I never have issues with colonization. I break n shake at 30% (approx 10 days), and achieve full colonization in approx 2.5 weeks. Not saying that it helps, but it definitely doesnt hurt, in my experience. Unrelated to your article, I also learned from a lab tech that agar can be poured at much lower then previously recommended temp.

  • I’m a newbie to growing mushrooms. I’m almost ready to do my first batch. I’m loving your articles. I’m learning a lot. I have a question. What’s the reason for moving the cultured spawn from the jars to the hardwood pellets? After a few weeks, can’t you just harvest the mushrooms right from the jars? BTW, I’m in western NY as well.

  • 15psi allows water to boil at sterilization temperatures. As long as the pot is at 15 psi and the water is boiling, everything inside will eventually reach sterilization temp. Even if the inside was only full of air, as long as it’s at the right temp, it will sterilize. Amount of steam is trivial as long as there’s water inside boiling under 15 psi.

  • I read on a forum…… The guy said he just adds a little verm to the bottom of the jar before droppin the grain in and he just rinses the grain in the strainer and shakes the loose water off, let’s it sit just until it’s no longer dripping and the verm will absorb any water that might pool up. I put two tbls of verm in the bottom of each jar and their cooling off right now. This will be my first attempt to inoculate grain. Do you have any mushroom forums you recommend that are not Facebook groups?

  • Another great article. I learned my lesson when I made 3 different LC jars from the syringe’s I got from Gary. I wiped them down with alcohol before putting them in the SAB. The labels disappeared in a instant. Needless to say I was worried about getting the 3 mixed up before I could re-label them. Live and learn. Cordicep update: I put them in a grow tent on the 16th and I just looked and they are colonizing but I see 3 or 4 dark specks which I guess is mold.😞 anyway to save them ? I did everything in front the flow hood but as I mentioned earlier I had to keep going in and out the room to the outdoors. I’m wondering if I could transfer the clean substrate into jars to salvage the grow? Is all lost at this point? Thanks

  • New to mushrooms and I really like and appreciate your articles. I am having a terrible time getting my grain spawn to grow. Every batch is contaminated. I wash hands, glove and mask up, 70% alcohol hands, jars, surfaces, flame needle then wipe with completely soaked paper towl in alcohol. Not sure what else I can do. I am using rye berries and after 4hrs drying they are not Moises to the touch. After I use PC I can see moisture in jars. Dried again and did PC 2nd time and still a little moisture on glass jar. I even turned off house ac 30 min prior to inoculation. Ideas? Thank you for your time! Brian

  • That’s very interesting, thank you. I used to soak then put my grain in boiling hot water and just let it sit heat turned off for about 30min. This way the grain gets extra plump (the light cooking makes it suck more water than just the initial soaking. It used to work just fine, yet since a few weeks I’m running into sour rot contamination problem which had me ditch so many grain jars. I am then switching to your technique to put a dryer grain into my grain spawn jars. Let’s hope I get rid of this awful bacteria 🤞

  • I have a question I seen in the background on the left side at 12.20 you have glass jugs and I recognized the plastic thing on top that looks like a bubbler and was just wondering what you used those for? I had a few of those that I found and couldn’t figure it out so I put a little water in the chambers and used it as a bubbler for a gravity bong worked well but heat and plastic don’t get along lol

  • Do you prefer working with the flow hood to the side? I’m about to build a hood but not looking forward to facing directly into the wind, which seems to be the usual orientation. I’m going to try your suggestion of wheat — many of my popcorn spawn jars seem to start out ok but then stall and gradually get ugly. I don’t see mold until they’ve gone seriously downhill so I wonder if contamination can develop so gradually?

  • Love the articles and advice. However went looking for the Blue Star Wheat Chicken feed. The only one they have in the Blue/Red bag was made of Cracked Corn, Oats, Wheat and called Scartch Chicken Feed. What do I look for. Also could find a wheat only their web site. What I look for or what’s it called ? Thanks in advance for your help.

  • No simmer teks for large grains never hydrate grains properly. I guarantee that the starchy inside of his grains are still rock solid after that soak. Imporoper hydration = improper sterilization…especially when coupled with non vented pc. However, if the mycelium is aggressive enough like oyster then it might not contam before first flush, but this way is not ideal. Shroomery explains this in detail! Do what works for you but i had many failures with oats until I dialed in spawn prep, which included simmering any whole grain for atleast 30 mins at my altitude.

  • Quick question for you – would you say this tek works equally well for rye berries (no simmer)? I just did my first batch of rye berries, first batch started sprouting in less than 24 hours during soak, but it may have been because water level dipped below the top of the grain. Second batch almost looked like it had started to sprout after less than 12 hours even though I used hot tap water 😮 (I could see just tiny little white tips at the ends of a lot of the grains but they didn’t ’come out’ of the grain if that makes sense). I said f it and went ahead with a simmer and proceeded. Through this I was thinking that 1) they seemed plenty hydrated without the simmer, and 2) that next time I would try soaking with almost boiling water to see if I could prevent sprouting.

  • Thank you for this very through article. I’m on day 8 and my jars don’t look very good. 😢 I’m wondering if my mistake was when I put the jars in the container? I put the heating pad under the container and made sure it stayed at 80 degrees Fahrenheit and I never opened the container the entire 8 days. Now the substrate looks kinda soggy. Any advice?? Note: I didn’t make my jars. I purchased them from a reputable supplier.

  • I know this is an old article, but we did this for the first time and we haven’t had any contamination growing, but the problem is nothing is growing in the grain jar. Do you have any advice on a failed to colonize? Liquid was from myco labs which from my limited research seems to be a reliable seller of liquid culture.

  • on 9-12-22 i used my 6 qrt.pressure cooker to process 1 bag of rye grain, i just wraped the top of the bag around the grain and covered up the filter patch ; when i took it out of the p.c. the bag was loose and had a lot of condensation inside . can i put the grain into a towel to dry if again and the refill the bag and process it with the filter patch uncovered this time. ? thanks .please a.s.a.p.

  • The only thing I would suggest is getting jars that don’t taper in. I find if you get the jars that are smooth all the way around it’s a lot easier to take your substrate out of the jar when it’s fully myceliumated 🫠 also, you can use regular lids, just drill a hole about 1/8″ hole and seal it with high temperature caulk which will be red. Then drill another hole about a half inch round 2 inches away from the 1/8″ hole.. and use pillow stuffing to fill in the 1/2″ hole. Use the 8th inch hole with the red caulk for injection site, Probably going to be cheaper then the professional ones I’m guessing. 🤗

  • EVERY time—only ones who don’t seemingly are Willy Myco and Philly Golden Teacher. If you’re speaking out loud into a mic, why use acronyms at all? Especially when making an educational article. “Just go ahead and PC it, and allow it to hydrate in the PC.” Like, bro, thank you, and I realize I can find it eventually online, but why not just say it?

  • I used to use foil on all my jars until I tried without. Water will pool on top of the lids but I just crack the lid on the PC after they’ve depressurized and after about 30 minutes or so all of the lids are bone dry. All the heat forces the water to vaporize from them and vent out the PC. Haven’t ever had any issues with contamination and it saves me some money on foil. Rinsing the grains with very hot water after hydrating them will help them to dry off faster too. Also, fuck all those rocker-nazi’s. The only time mine comes off is when I forget about it and flip the top upside side, followed by thanking god it didn’t land on my foot.