The Oatey PVC Shower Pan Liner is an economical, flexible liner designed for use in tile showers and other concealed waterproofing applications. It is made of 40 mil thick, flexible PVC and is easy to measure and cut to size. To install the liner, place the drain base into a pre-made hole and cut out the pan liner material to the dimension of the drain hole on the drain base.
Oatey recommends a minimum testing time of four hours, but check with local code jurisdiction for appropriate testing requirements. After checking for leaks, repair as necessary, and retest the liner until the installation is leak-free. Screw the clamping ring bolts into the drain base to 2-3 thread depth. Before the caulk dries, lay the premeasured pan liner on the floor and over the drain body.
A shower pan flood test is a simple process where you plug the drain of the shower and fill it up with water. If the water holds that level for 24-72 hours or longer, there are no shower pan leaks. To ensure good handling strength, allow overnight cure before water testing a shower pan assembly.
To avoid water-testing the installation, close off the drainpipe opening with a pneumatic or mechanical test plug and fill the shower floor with water just below the top of the curb. Before proceeding with tile installation, perform a flood test by plugging the drain with a test ball and filling the shower area with water to identify any leaks.
📹 How to Install a Shower Pan Liner
Learn more about the Oatey Shower Pan Liner here: https://bit.ly/3Soilsq For step-by-step instructions, check out our project guide: …
📹 Shower pan liner diy instructions and water test for leaks
Shower pan liner diy instructions and water test for leaks Check out all my shower build videos just search – kooper salmo shower.
As an installer this was a nice article. As an installer I will point out a few observations that are never mentioned in articles. 1. on the back corners you are left with 3 layers of vinyl, do you know what that does. That causes your cement board be be bent inwards at the bottom. Tile doesn’t like to bend. The solution is you sawsall a fat website like 1/4″ at the back corners so you can tuck the liner behind the wall instead of folding it on the inside where you need to cement board it. 2. Don’t cut the liner to the same size as the drain hold. cut a smaller hole about 1″ in the center then pizza cut the rest, just 8 slices. The liner will stretch and bend into the drain hole cavity when applying the bolt on threaded thingy. Creating a much better seal. 3. Although you did a great job on the curb. Wood curbs fail because the wood shrinks leaving air space then the grout cracks then the water gets in then the tiles crack. The only solution is a cement curb then you bury the liner in the cement curb which means the first level of mud needs to be installed then you put in your liner as usual but you build the mud curb at the same time and bury the liner only half way into it tapering it up hill.
Well, color me ignorant. I have never been involved with the construction phase, even though I’ve been a plumber for nearly forty years. I never once ran into one of these pan liners, even though I was constantly working on floor drain replacements, toilet flange replacements, and shower drain replacements. This article is like an epiphany. Finally, seeing the correct way to ensure your shower is properly sealed is like a lightning strike to my aged soul. All I can say is that down here in Florida they must be paying off the inspectors to look the other way. I will never accept anything less in one of my homes.
A few things to add that are missing in this article that may or may not be obvious: 1. Oatey x-15 sets up in contact with PVC very quickly, get your folds figured out and creased before you apply. 2. Oatey x-15 smells eye burningly strong, even with minimal exposure. I believe when I used it my sinuses were dissolved to reveal their freshest layer, even while wearing a mask and trying to keep distance. 3. The curb requires smaller hospital folds to deal with excess material, people may already know this, but it’s not explicitly shown in the article.
Wow look at that it takes the company to show somebody how to do it right LOL, I would take a oscillating tool with a brand new blade and knocked out those three layered sections in the corners of the wood so it recess is back in the woods so your concrete board or foam board or whatever using does not bulge out at the bottom. And I’ve never done the double curb system but I would like to add you should pitch your curb because when water gets down on top of that liner, and the two-by-four curb is level the water’s going to go one way or the other you wanted to go inside the shower so always pitch the two-by-four ittle bit into the shower, also in my opinion X-15 on top of the bottom three piece drain and underneath is the only place X15 or silicone should be, I know you guys use silicone or whatever I think X-15 work better. I’ve done some tests. Either is fine. I also use a plastic weep hole protector every single shower even if it’s linear drain. And at first I was like he stapling through the top of the curb LOL but then you covered it with the second piece, you actually don’t need the second piece you just make the same folds and you do the same cut that you did on top of the curb on the outside and the damn corners, also damn Corners are recommended on the outside and inside so we use for now. I constantly have to come in because I’m a tile guy and fix plumbing guys problems putting silicone on top of the liner and then putting the second piece down and screwing and smashing and smearing silicone and clogging the weep holes, so I have to disassemble it before the silicone dries get it all out make sure it works, flood test excetera and these are professional plumbing companies LOL.
How do you allow for the added thickness of the shower pan in the folded up corners when applying backer board? You have added at least a quarters of an inch thickness to the bottom five inches so when installing backerboard over the pan then the walls bow out at the bottom which really screws with installing the tile. I figure that the bottom the studs need trimming or you will have to add shims to compensate for the added thickness of the pan at the bottom of the wall. And I have yet to see anybody compensate for that. At the corners I have cut into the corner studs and tuck the corner of the pan into the wall thereby eliminating the added thickness of the folded pan in the corner.
Me in my head (I got this easy) I’m over here sweating bullets taking 3 months finally got the liner on I used recycled styrofoam in my mix with some rock and a little bit of sand an polymer liquid some water more type S it’s for an rv so I had too keep it lightweight could have had a taller pan I’m hopeful I can fix that with foam panels more lightweight mix and epoxy will be using magic liquid seal with fish rocks decorated I tryed keeping it all in one piece for the toilet right next too it might have to cut and glue too get a better fit tho
I have seen dozens of articles that show the drain sitting up on the plywood about .5″ with the molded bolt bottoms sitting directly on the plywood. This shows the hole cut just large enough that those bolts drop down allowing only the lip of the drain to sit on top of the plywood. Which one is correct?