The DIY greenhouse cooling wall building process involves selecting the right size cooling pad, preparing the pipe and gauge steel track, drilling holes in the pipe and draining it, attaching the gauge steel track and pipe, and installing an evaporative cooling system. Evaporative cooling systems work by pushing warm air through moistened cloth pads, which absorb heat from the air, evaporating and lowering the ambient temperature.
An evaporative cooling system, also known as a commercial swamp cooler, provides powerful cooling ability by employing natural scientific processes. This reduces electricity consumption and allows growers to create a cool oasis by allowing water to evaporate. To design a pad and fan evaporative system for cooling a greenhouse, use large-leaved plants in strategic places.
The pad and fan cooling greenhouse system cools down temperature using evaporative cooling, making it an efficient way to cool on hot summer days. Utilize large-leaved plants in strategic places to keep your greenhouse cool. Build an evaporative cooler at the top of the greenhouse, allowing cold air to naturally sink and cool shelves all the way down.
GrowSpan’s evaporative cooling system uses a fan and pad technique, drawing outdoor air into the greenhouse by exhaust fans. A 24″ box fan and swamp cooler filter can be used to have the water run through the cooler, with a light-tight water reservoir to prevent overheating.
To enhance ventilation, use shade covers or netting to give plants some shade, enhance ventilation by letting the breezes flow, and employ evaporative cooling by misting your way to cool the air.
📹 diy greenhouse swamp cooler
Is alcohol better than water for evaporative cooling?
Water has a latent heat of vaporization of 2, 260 kJ/kg, while ethyl alcohol has a latent heat of vaporization of 846 kJ/kg. Ethanol, though nearly 1/3rd as hot as water, has a stronger evaporative cooling effect. The choice of coolant, including saturation temperature and pressure, is crucial. When liquids evaporate, they gain heat from their surroundings, causing them to change to a gaseous state and escape the liquid body.
How to make your own evaporative cooler?
A DIY swamp cooler, also known as an evaporative cooler, is an easy-to-build air conditioner that can reduce temperatures by up to 15°F. It can be completed in an hour or two and costs about $30 to $60. Swamp coolers work best in low humidity conditions, as they are ineffective in humid conditions and can increase discomfort. They can be used in any temperature but are most effective in rooms that are 74°F or less.
A DIY swamp cooler can produce up to 15°F cooler air than room air and can cool an entire small room by 3°F. Most DIY swamp coolers are used as fans for spot-cooling rather than for cooling entire spaces.
What is the disadvantage of evaporative air cooler?
Excessive use of an evaporative cooler can lead to moisture buildup, promoting mold, dust mites, and mildew growth in confined spaces. High humidity levels can trigger asthma, allergic complications, or hypersensitivity pneumonitis. Improperly maintained coolers can become breeding grounds for mosquitoes and pathogens. However, the pros of an evaporative cooler outweigh the cons, making it an eco-friendly, economical, and minimally maintained method for beating summer heat. In summary, evaporative cooling is a viable solution for reducing summer heat.
What temperature does evaporative cooling work?
Evaporative cooling systems are effective in areas with wet bulb temperatures up to 22°C and 24 to 25°C, but may reduce comfort levels on humid days. They are known as “swampy” wet pads due to their potential to create uncomfortably muggy environments. Extended periods of high humidity can also cause unpleasant smells and support dust mites and mold growth, which can be harmful to asthmatic or allergic individuals.
For those who don’t tolerate heat or feel uncomfortable in dampness, refrigerative air conditioning, specifically reverse cycle systems, can be used. These systems provide respite during muggy days and warm up during colder months. If evaporative cooling isn’t suitable, reversing the cycle can provide a more energy-efficient and cozy atmosphere all year round.
What is the most effective method of cooling a greenhouse?
Growers can benefit from incorporating dedicated cooling systems to maintain healthy air exchange and actively lower greenhouse temperatures. One effective method is the evaporative cooling system, which uses exhaust fans to pull hot air in from the outdoors and cool it with water-soaked pads. This system can lower a greenhouse’s temperature by up to 20 degrees while consuming minimal energy. This system is convenient as it is completely sealed and requires no additional pumps, filters, or internal plumbing.
Another option is installing a fogger or misting system inside the greenhouse structure. Misting systems work similarly to fan and pad systems, cooling a greenhouse through evaporation. Water droplets are emitted through nozzles, and as they evaporate, they spread through the air, cooling down the growing area. This system is particularly beneficial for greenhouses with limited energy consumption.
Can you use an evaporative cooler in a greenhouse?
In Florida, greenhouse temperatures can exceed 100°F during summer without active cooling systems, affecting crop quality and worker productivity. Evaporative cooling is the most common method for reducing greenhouse temperatures, but it has limitations in the hot, humid climate. Air conditioning or refrigeration systems can be used, but their installation and operating costs are often prohibitive. Evaporative cooling reduces air temperature by evaporating water into the airstream, causing energy loss.
Two important temperatures are dry bulb temperature and wet bulb temperature. Dry bulb temperature is the temperature measured by a regular thermometer exposed to the airstream, while wet bulb temperature is the lowest temperature reached by evaporation of water only. Wet bulb temperatures can be determined using aspiration psychrometers, sling psychrometers, or electronic humidity meters. Wet bulb psychrometers consist of two thermometers exposed to the same airstream, with one covered by a wetted wick, and the other directly exposed to the airstream.
The difference between a sling psychrometer and an aspiration psychrometer is the airstream provided, with a sling psychrometer mounted on a swiveled handle and whirled rapidly, while an aspiration psychrometer uses a small fan for air movement.
How efficient is evaporative cooling?
Evaporative cooling is an eco-friendly alternative to compressor air conditioning, using 80 less energy and maintaining optimal humidity levels without refrigerants. However, it requires minimal maintenance and may build up salts and mineral deposits in hard water-prone areas. Additionally, maintenance can be inconvenient and potentially dangerous if the cooler is on the roof. Evaporative cooling is not suitable for hot and humid areas, as too much humidity can hinder the air’s ability to absorb moisture, affecting its performance. Overall, evaporative cooling is a sustainable and eco-friendly option.
What humidity do evaporative coolers work in?
Evap cooling systems are ideal for larger spaces and can operate well between 40-60 humidity levels. They can be run without cooling function above these levels, and increased fan speed creates air movement, making you feel cooler. For optimal cooling, consider installing evapo austclimate. com. au/areas-we-serve/cooling-services-box-hill/ rative cooling in Templestowe, Box Hill, or the surrounding areas. If you don’t live in a dry climate or are sensitive to humidity, consider refrigerated air conditioning.
How does a greenhouse evaporative cooling system work?
Fan and pad systems are greenhouse cooling systems that combine an exhaust fan and a porous pad. A pump circulates water over and through the pad, causing the fan to pull air from outside the structure, through the evaporative pad, into the greenhouse. This cools the air, replacing the hot air expelled by the fan. However, these systems are expensive to install and maintain, and they can create a significant temperature gradient, affecting crop uniformity and making management difficult. Additionally, the air movement generated by exhaust fans can damage plants under extreme conditions.
Fogging systems are a more effective and uniform method of greenhouse cooling, providing a reasonable increase in relative humidity. They can achieve a cooling effect of up to 10°C on a hot day, producing small droplets of water that evaporate before falling on the crop canopy. Both systems are cost-effective and can be used in extreme conditions.
What is the best cooling for a greenhouse?
Wet wall systems are a popular and efficient method for cooling large commercial greenhouses, consisting of cooling pads encased in an aluminum housing. These systems, similar to a honey comb, allow air to pass over the cooling pads, creating an evaporative cooling effect. The air is cooled significantly as it passes through the wet pad, similar to a radiator cooling an engine. The evaporative effect cools the growing space, and powered fans drive air movement. Motorized shutters are thermostatically controlled to open and close based on temperature.
Portable evaporative coolers are a more common choice for home hobbyist greenhouse growers. These self-contained, movable, and relatively inexpensive devices are self-contained and movable, costing between $500-$1000 depending on size. They contain a similar pad to wet wall systems and work best when they have access to fresh air. They should be placed near the greenhouse entry or a fresh air intake vent, and are thermostatically controlled. They can be easily stored under a bench or out of the way when not in use.
Both wet wall systems and portable evaporative coolers are essential for greenhouse growers to maintain cooler temperatures during hot summer months.
📹 Greenhouse Evaporative Cooler Build
Hey, Guys, and Gals! As promised, here is the greenhouse evaporative cooler build. Took longer to edit the video than to do the …
Very nice setup. I built one and use it at this time as a humidifier due to the cold weather we have. I get around 70% at times with it opened up. I have a Humidity meter a few yards away from the setup.With it in the basement the water will be cold and I will pump the cool air upstairs this coming summer seeing if it will work.
Great article, detailed but concise explanations, great audio (thank you for doing voice over instead of live audio) and I love that you showed as much of your process uncut as possible. As someone who does projects by myself all the time, this is easily one of the best DIY articles I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing.
I have both a question and a comment. What size is your greenhouse? Knowing this and your results will help me in planning my cooler. Back in the middle 1960’s my mother managed a commercial hydroponics greenhouse operation in Albuquerque with multiple greenhouses. They used the same concept you are using here with one exception. They mounted their fans on the far wall and used them as exhaust fans. creating a vacuum and pulling the cool air all the way across the house. I think you may find you got better performance if you tried this. Loved the article.
I took your wonderful article and modified it to fit my greenhouse and it works beautifully! Thank you so much for all of the detail and advice as to where to get some of the items. It looks like yours except for the water reservoir had to be placed into the floor of the greenhouse! Awesome article! Thanks again.
I have to thank you. This article and the material list are incredible. I really appreciate the work and ingenuity you put into this. I am building 2 10’x5′ coolers right now, and I saved thousands on what it would have cost to buy from Farmtek, etc. If you’re ever in Chicago, come visit our vertical farm – It would be a great pleasure to meet and talk hydroponics with you. Best of luck to you, and thanks so much again.
I have modified your design to fit my greenhouse. I ran into an issue with the 3 5/8″ steel track vs the 4″ wide cooling pad. The website is 3/8″ too small, so the pad does not fit without modification. I decided not to use the steel track and used 1.5″x1.5″ aluminum solid angle in each corner. Thanks for the design!!
COOLING WATER IDEA: Had a few more “possible” thoughts on keeping the water cool. If you had a used/cheap refrigerator you can get your hands on and put the water container in the refrigerator with drilling a hole through the side (w/out causing damage to wiring) to run pipe to pump water to cooling pad … could it work? AND … perhaps a separate refrigerator could be used for hydroponic nutrient liquids in the hottest part of the summer. I’ve been told you can grow cool crops (lettuce/greens) in the hottest part of the summer if your roots are kept cool and the temp of inside of the greenhouse was maintained. Your thoughts …. ?
Have watched this many times over the past few months. Trying to figure out if I want to build one now and cut the back out of the cover on the greenhouse I have now or wait until I need to replace that cover with greenhouse plastic and frame that back end. You seen my setup so you know what I am dealing with here. Not sure how well this will help me with all those windows the old cover has. Thank you for your thoughts and ideas.
Thanks for posting. My husband and I are building our first greenhouse, 16×48 in March 2019. We live in lower Mississippi, zone 8. We have some pretty HOT and HUMID summers. Would dropping FROZEN 2-LITER BOTTLES in the water help LOWER the TEMP? I want to grow hydroponic lettuce year round. Also, does the cooler need to be like a window air conditioner, front facing in and ext. facing outside? Or, can it all be mounted to the interior of the greenhouse? Thanks for your help.
So I have read all 319 comments! Great information. I have a question about what to do in the winter time. You have your fan at the front of the building pulling air in your shutter which flows through your pad. Do you have other vents that open? In the winter time when you have warm days where the vents and fan need to work, you’re not using the evaporation. wall? not running water through it during the winter? Is your shutter motorized? Not sure I’m communicating my question very well. I”m in Middle TN and probably have similar humidity to your area.
Thank you so much for this article! I appreciate all the time and effort you put into making this available including the parts list – it is first class! I am going to make a version of your evaporative cooler for my workshop cooling after seeing how expensive purchased coolers from Port-A-Cool are. I also saw your other information on building a greenhouse. I am a fairly skilled handyman – but imagine I will have some questions. In particular on this project I am thinking I will have them about water flow through the media (kraft paper – which I see is about double the cost you listed) and how it holds up over time and what other options there may be – including some material I took out of an old salvaged/recycled mattress. I”ll figure out this youtube/google system and try to PM you. I like you try to save materials/resources wherever I can! Also, as a believer I appreciate your expressions of faith…..
Awesome article, thanks so much for the information! One question I had was about pre-wetting the pad. How necessary is it? I want to hook everything up to a thermostat, but that would make the water pump and exhaust fan come on at the same time. I think you mentioned a thermostat that had a pre-wet cycle. Did you find that, and if so do you have a part number for it? Thanks again, very cool stuff!
Hello there, great job, and article! Kudos! However, it seemed as though the fan was perhaps too small… for the size of the pad. I was wondering what the fan you used, it’s make and model, and why you did not use a larger one, closer to the size of the pad? I presume you had a reason. Perhaps that would make it too cool?
Wow!!! Amazing build, what a great idea to be able to grow all summer in the greenhouse. I calculated all the materials for this project, and I can build it for $282.17. I would say that’s a small price for the benefits I will gain. Thank you for all your hard work and the complete detailed list of materials. Keep up the good work and stay inspired.
Hi, great job, very doable. I do have a question though, will this raise the humidity of the air in the greenhouse? I often fight high humidity. Looks store bought, I don’t know of a better complement. This could make such a difference for me, thank you! Edit: I see in the article the humidity went from 23% to 57% if I am seeing it right. What happens if the humidity is already high, like 70%? Last fall was horrible here with 110 degrees with 70% humidity, would this still work? Thank you.
Wow, what an excellent article. Just wondering how big your greenhouse is. I am putting my 40×20 greenhouse together and my plan was to have 2 4×4 builds in the side wall. It was great to find your article because I have been struggling with quite how to put it together as my idea is very close to what you have already created. I think the main thing is to have enough cfm pulling air out of the opposite end wall. What do you think? I’m in Prescott Az. It gets in the upper 90’s in the summer and we get as low as the single digits in the winter with snow.
Thats a beautiful piece of work mate… I would love to have one as I’m not as dexterous as yourself. I’m living off-grid at Angledool NSW where the temps get to 45c for weeks on end. We just got a bore water system for our village so I have enough water for an evaporative system. Big pass on my appreciation.
Very nice article. I WAS considering doing and earth battery (geoheating/cooling) but after seeing this idea, I am not so convinced. I live in the pacific NW and humidity is fairly low. Have you done much research on the gas heating you mentioned in a previous comment? I have a house that runs on propane and it wouldn’t take much to run a line out to the green house.
Thank you for making this article sir! I do intend to build this exact same coil, I’m calling it a coil, to be used in a “porta-cool” like device with a fan draw close to the coil. My question is can you please detail a little bit better how you set up your water distribution tubing at the top? Are you spraying water up into the trough and then letting it roll down the sides to feed the coil? I ask this because in your article you say you clock the pipe at 11:30 but didn’t explain the orientation of the upper trough when you were clocking it. In other words I didn’t know if you were having a bounce off the top of the upper trough or spray the Jets of water directly at the coil. I’m starting my build today so any help soon would be much much appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for this article. Reading the comments I am not sure if your fan or the cooler were not up to the challenge. Some where someone named a place to size the exhaust fan just can’t remember where. As a side question what temperature should your hydro mix be when going to the buckets. Have you seen any effective cooling systems.
Great project – just what I was looking for my dIY greenhouse in South Mississippi. does it matter alot the position or height of the cooler on the back wall of the GH? i’ve read that is best to cover the entire width of the GH? Do you/anyone have experience whether width or height matters that much. Also, have you done any passive GH heating projects. like solar, etc? Thanks for posting .
Amazing. I just bought all the stuff on Amazon and gonna build it in a couple of weeks in the Bahamas. My only concern is the humidity. I dont know if it will work in my greenhouse there. I am going to build a small starter greenhouse 6×8 and gonna run the pump and Fan on solar. What do you think how much degrees I will go down in these areas? (ps I am Dutch so dont mind my English writing) Thanks for sharing and compliments for the detailed list and your decent work. It does look very pro and nice!! Jorgen
I was happy to find your article today as I need to build an evaporative cooler for a 24′ x 36′ greenhouse. However, for whatever reason, the parts list for the project did not appear at the end of the article. I have no idea where the grey parts come from that are used to surround and support the cooling pad. What is that assembly called and what kind of stores sell it? Thank you. Richard
You went to a lot of effort to build a really good cooling pad but I don’t understand why you don’t have a much larger fan in front of it with a shroud to make all the air that the fan is pulling come through the cooling pads. The small fan and the gap between the fan and the cooling pad is allowing a lot of warm air to circulate into the system.
I am trying to adapt this for my workshop in Tucson… Do I understand correctly that you have a 36 in exhaust fan that then pulls cool air through the pad? Since your greenhouse is probably airtight, this would make sense… My workshop is not, being a steel building with no insulation. If this is the case, I would have to build a more conventional EvAP cooler with the fan pulling directly from the pad. Do you have any thoughts, ideas? Thank you, great work.
you are losing a ton o cooling by not having the entire cool cell pads covered by a fan. Your fan frame should be the same size as the entire pad system. Only the part covered by the blower/fan is effective cooling. The rest of the water on your pads has no air flow to help evaporate the water on the rest of the pads which will cause them to rot. I’m a poultry farmer and I use 70ft. cool cell systems on my houses and I have 20 years experience with such systems. Get you a fan that completely covers the entire pad system. It looks good other than the fan setup.