Repotting houseplants is a crucial gardening task that allows plants more room to grow and prevents soil loss. Houseplants need fresh soil for nutrients and oxygen, and larger pots for outgrowing their current pot. Even if your plant isn’t crowded, repotting is a necessary step every few years to refresh the soil.
Repotting indoor houseplants is easier than you might think, taking around 10 minutes. The process involves five steps, including all the tools needed, and takes around 1 – 2 hours. It is important to avoid repotting immediately after bringing the plant home from the plant shop, as it can add extra stress like root damage or transpiration stress.
Plants typically benefit from being repotted every 12 to 18 months, depending on how actively they are growing. For most tropical houseplants, it’s time to repot when roots begin peeking out of the drain holes at the bottom of the container. The best time of year to repot plants is just before the new growing season, so either late winter or early spring is ideal. If the plant easily comes out in tact and there are lots of roots and feels very little dampness, it’s time to repot.
Re-potting your plant into the same container works wonders by refreshing the soil and freeing up root space. Follow this guide to learn how to repot your indoor houseplants and make the process easier for you.
📹 Should You Repot A New Houseplant Right Away? Reasons Why You Should Wait To Repot!
Repotting a new houseplant may cause more damage than benefit. Waiting until you see the first signs of new growth is key.
How long can a plant go without being repotted?
Plants should be repotted every 12 to 18 months, depending on their growth rate. Slow growers, like cacti, can live in the same pot for years but only need soil replenishment. The growing season, early spring through late summer, is the best time to repot plants, as they get the most out of additional space and fresh nutrients. If you notice signs of repotting, such as roots growing through drainage holes, the plant pushing up and out of the pot, slower growth, top-heavy plants, drier potting mix, larger foliage, noticeable salt and mineral build-up, or it’s been over a year since last repotted, it’s a good time to repot your plants. This helps ensure they receive the most out of additional space and fresh nutrients.
How do I know if my houseplant needs repotting?
Repotting plants is necessary when they dry out between waterings, top-heavy plants fall over, produce small leaves with little new growth, or if a salty crust is seen on the soil surface. Repotting is best in late winter, when natural light levels increase and plants are awakening from winter doldrums. Most plants grow as large as their root system allows, so larger pots lead to larger root masses and larger plants. However, large plants require more room inside the home and are more difficult to move outside during summer.
It is generally okay to let some plants get rootbound, as it keeps them smaller and easier to manage. Pot size should be gradually increased, starting with small pots and gradually increasing as the plant grows.
What happens if you don’t repot houseplants?
Pot-bound plants can outgrow their pots, displacing potting mix and depriving them of water and nutrients. These plants may struggle to survive and may outgrow their pots in just a few months. Some vigorous plants may outgrow their pots in just a few months, so they may be moved into larger pots to accommodate their rapid growth. Or, plants may become pot-bound when they have been forgotten about for a few years, noticing only when they show signs of decline. They may have exhausted all available potting mix and nutrients, and their roots may fill the pot or grow out through drain holes around the base.
Should I repot my monstera after buying?
Monstera plants should be repotted every two years or so, even if they don’t seem to be outgrowing their pot. To repot, measure the diameter of the current container and choose a pot 2 to 3 inches wider at the top. Avoid using terra-cotta pots, as they allow the soil to dry out too quickly. Always use fresh potting mix, either a standard houseplant mix or premade formulated for aroids like monstera. A basic aroid potting mix can be blended by combining equal parts peat moss or coco coir, perlite, and orchid bark. Avoid using terra-cotta pots as they can dry out too quickly.
Should I repot monstera after buying?
Monstera plants are ready to be repotted when their roots grow onto the soil’s surface or out of the pot’s drainage hole. The presence of aerial roots is unrelated. If the monstera is large and falling over, it may need to be staked or supported better. Repotting can help a healthy monstera plant thrive or help a pot-bound or overgrown plant bounce back. This simple task requires basic gardening gear and simple steps. Repotting a monstera plant is recommended when roots grow out of the holes in the bottom of the pot or appear to fill the soil surface.
Overgrown foliage, stunted growth, or a dull appearance are other signs of rootbound plants. It is recommended to repot monstera plants with fresh soil every two years or so, even if they don’t seem to be outgrowing their pot.
How long should you wait before repotting a plant?
If you notice signs of soil compacting when watering your indoor plants, it’s likely that they need new soil. They can stay in the same pot for 12 to 18 months. Repotting indoor plants in spring is the best time to do so, as it allows them time to grow their roots into the new soil. If your houseplant is in dire straits in fall or winter, repotting it as soon as possible is recommended. Sometimes, the plant just needs fresh potting soil to gain the necessary nutrients to survive. Repotting indoor plants in the spring is crucial for their growth and survival.
Do indoor plants need repotting?
Houseplants are low-maintenance plants that occasionally need to be re-potted. They may show signs of struggling, such as yellowing foliage, excessive leaf loss, sluggish growth, poor flowering, and a mass of roots emerging from the base of pots. Compost can become depleted over years, and stressed plants are more prone to aphid infestations. To repot houseplants, choose a slightly larger container with plenty of drainage holes to reduce overwatering.
Water plants a day before repotting to ease them from their old pots and minimize damage to roots. To remove the old pot, gently ease the root ball from the pot, and remove any dead or damaged roots. Fill the base of the new pot with houseplant compost, place the plant in the new pot, add or remove compost to prevent water spilling over the edges, and fill the gaps at the sides of the root ball with fresh potting mix. Gently firm the compost and water well.
How soon after getting a plant can you repot it?
Repotting a new plant is recommended for at least a few weeks after arrival due to the plant’s acclimatization to the dark, dry environment of the new home. This allows the plant to adjust to the new environment and may alleviate stress during the initial weeks of adjusting. After a few weeks of acclimation, repotting can be considered, but it’s not necessary at this stage. Plants should be repotted every 12 to 18 months to receive refreshed nutrients from the new soil. Once deciding to repot, follow these simple steps:
- Remove the pot from the nursery and ensure the roots are not escaping out the base or top.
- Remove the pot from the pot and remove the roots from the base or top.
- Place the pot back in the pot and water the plant regularly.
- Water the plant regularly to maintain its health and growth.
Should you wait to repot plants after buying?
Repotting houseplants is best during active growth, which occurs from April through August in Iowa. After this time, plants go dormant and should be avoided unless they show signs of being severely rootbound. If a new houseplant is brought home, give it 3-5 days to adjust to its new environment before repotting. Overplanting is a common problem with houseplants, as it occurs when plants are repotted into containers that are too large, leaving a small root system in a large volume of potting soil.
Most plants prefer smaller containers and it’s okay for them to be a little rootbound. It’s recommended to sizing up no more than one size from the current pot, usually done in 2″ increments. Orchids may need a specialized container with large holes for extra air circulation around the roots.
Is repotting traumatic for plants?
Repotting houseplants can be a challenging task, especially for those sensitive to disruption. The journey from the garden center to the home is a significant adjustment for plants, and they should be given a little time to rest before repotting. Repotting is best done during active growth, which occurs from April through August in Iowa. After this time, plants go dormant, and repotting should be avoided unless the plant is severely rootbound. If a new houseplant is brought home, give it 3-5 days to adjust to its new environment before repotting.
Overplanting is a common problem with houseplants, where plants are repotted into large containers, leaving a small root system in a large volume of potting soil. Most plants prefer smaller containers and it’s okay for them to be a little rootbound. It’s recommended to sizing up no more than one size from the current pot, usually in 2″ increments.
Should I repot a new plant?
Plant doctor Maryah Greene offers tips on how to repot a new plant in a way that makes it feel right at home. In the latest episode of Well+Good’s Greene Thumb series, Greene works with a group of roommates in Brooklyn to help them choose and repot new plants for their new apartment. Greene helps them learn valuable tips, such as the importance of correctly repotted plants. The video, which is available on the Well+Good YouTube channel, provides a breakdown of the process and provides a comprehensive guide to repotting plants in a comfortable and welcoming environment.
📹 Should You Repot New Houseplants? Talking About Growing Conditions and Coco Coir
Links to products shown in videos and some that I just like. These are associate links, so I do make a small commission off of …
* I need to add a note to this article about nutrient holding capacity that accidently got cut from the article and I didn’t notice until it was already done and public.* Coco coir has excellent moisture and nutrient holding capacity. As long as the coir stays moist, the nutrients it has absorbed are readily available to be used by the plants with the exceptions of the mentioned, iron, magnesium and calcium, which sometimes can be bound up in the coconut coir. When I talked about fertilizing with every watering, it should be noted that I meant to fertilize in extremely dilute concentrations with each watering. Finally; yes I know I spelled, “dilute” incorrectly in the article. On the little editing screen the “i’s” and “l’s” all blend together. It’s fine.
One of the more effective ways to deal with nutrient deficiency in coir is to use a fertilizer with chelated metals. Chelation makes the nutrients available at a much wider range of pH, up to nearly 8. There are many out there but most are chelated with EDTA, which some people are strongly opposed to. There are some that are chelated with organic acids but they have a higher cost. Plant potion #9, TPS nutrients and some others do offer non EDTA chelated metal supplements (TPS and some others offer a balanced feed with the chelated metals, plant potion #9 is chelated metals only). There are fertilizers made specifically for use with coir as well but any hydroponics specific fertilizer will typically work.
Hi Jeff! This article was very helpful! The difference between coco coir and peat have never been explained so thoroughly, and I really appreciate the time you took to explain this. I’ve tried several of the wider leaf dracaena’s, but they don’t do very well for me. They leaves tend to start turning brown at the bottom of the plant, then just continue until they’re dead. I really like them, but am about to give up on them. Is there a chance that you could do a care article on them? Turbo’s so precious! Thank you so much for sharing!
With the cost of Proven winner plants I’m going to be trying to save a lot of them through the winter. I figure I can do that because I’m not going to be selling them. I’ve taken cuttings of my coleus and some impatiens so far. I need to get busy trying to root some other things too. Maybe a potato vine and some sun impatiens. I figure that I can dig up the dichondra silver falls and hopefully the four o’clocks made a tuber for me so I can save them. I know 4 o’clock s are vey easy to start from seed, but I want to try and save the tubers if I have any. I’m also going to try an experiment with my Proven winners petunias. I’m going to try and take cuttings from them and see if I can root them. I also am going to TRY and start some perennials from seed this winter🤞🏻. Oh I also want to try and save my geraniums for next year 🤞🏻. I didn’t get the grow room set up yet, I NEED to work on that otherwise the house is going to be an absolute jungle until I get it done🤣🌺💚🙃
Good point, thanks. Is there any good peat replacement for indoor plants? All the commercial potting mix I can get are peat based. I tried to use composted manure as a main base and there’s too much organic matter and very quickly caused root rot and stunned the plant, I have to fall back to coir to save it. I’m considering using leaf mold next time, but am afraid if it will cause rot again.
My voodoo lily showed up today and I’m at a loss as to what I should do with it now. Do I plant it and mulch the heck out of it, or do I plant it in a container and bring it in for the winter? You said that they need a cold period and I’m really pushing the planting zone on it. My original thought was to plant it and keep it growing in the house through the winter. Now I’m totally confused. Maybe plant it in a container then bring it in and move it to the basement for the winter? A little help here ? JK I bought it my headache.🌺💚🙃