Cattleya orchids are easy-to-grow and are popular due to their iconic corsage orchid, which is used in tropical-themed events. They require bright light, moderately warm temperatures, good drainage, and proper watering at correct intervals. To grow them well, they need the right amount of water, adequate lighting, the correct potting mix, and access to nutrients.
Cattleyas have a broader range than cattleya orchids, with a temperature range ranging from the upper 40’s to mid 80’s depending on the type of Cattleya. The key to blooming and growing cattleya orchids is to provide bright light and appropriate temperatures. You need to know how to water, fertilize, and pot the plant.
In our region, Cattleya can put out new growths at any time of year, although initiations slow down by about 70 in winter (say July and August). To ensure successful growth, it is essential to provide the right amount of water, adequate lighting, the correct potting mix, and access to nutrients.
To ensure the success of growing Cattleya orchids, it is crucial to follow expert tips, step-by-step instructions, and valuable insights. By following these guidelines, you can nurture these exquisite blooms and enjoy the beauty of Cattleya orchids.
📹 Dividing my Rootbound Overgrown Cattleya Orchid into 8 Divisions | 3 Years of Growth over Time
IG @nicoledeannaorchids Growing Conditions & Climate: Almost all orchids grown indoors Eastern Exposures (4-5 hours direct …
What is the easiest orchid to grow?
The moth orchid is a simple and easy-to-grow orchid that blooms in winter with long spikes of colorful flowers that last for months. These flowers can be white, purple, pink, salmon, or yellow, and some may be speckled and blotched in interesting patterns. They prefer lower light and prefer temperatures in the 70s and 80s degrees F during the day and in the 60s at night. Humidity should be above 50.
The classic corsage orchid, also known as the moth orchid, blooms in winter and early spring and requires high light but not direct sunlight. It prefers temperatures between 70 to 85 degrees F at day and 55 to 60 degrees at night, with humidity above 50. Water mature plants weekly and feed them at a quarter to half strength of the recommended label dilution.
In summary, the moth orchid is a versatile and easy-to-grow orchid that thrives in a variety of conditions, including low light, temperature, humidity, and watering.
Is Cattleya an orchid?
Cattleyas are tree-growing orchids native to Costa Rica and South America, known for their large, fragrant flowers that last for a shorter period than other orchids. They thrive in well-drained roots and ample light. To ensure their growth, Cattleyas should be placed near east-facing windows or south or west-facing windows with a sheer curtain to diffuse light. They should not get direct mid-day sun or sunburn, and red-tinged leaves indicate too much sun.
Indoors, they prefer temperatures between 60-64° F and 70-80° F, with night temperatures of 60-64° F and day temperatures of 70-80° F. They are popular in flower arrangements in the 1950s and should not be exposed to direct mid-day sun or red-tinged leaves.
What is the easiest Cattleya orchid to grow?
Guarianthe skinneri is a bifoliate species from Central America, known for its vigorous growth and free-flowering characteristics. Its stems are about a foot tall, bear two largish leaves, and produce five to ten fair-sized flowers. The petals and sepals range from pale to deep rose-purple, with the lip a deeper purple with whitish disk and throat. Guarianthe skinneri flowers in the spring, typically March.
Cattleya hybrids are a confusing array of options for beginners, as the progeny of complex crosses is even more variable than the species. However, if a beginner deals with a reliable commercial source, they can generally get the value for their money. Seedlings with average-quality flowers can be found from moderately priced plants, while top-quality award-winning flowers are not common and expensive. The development of mericloning has changed the equation regarding the price of award-quality flowers, making it possible for everyone to have the same awarded clones for remarkably low prices.
To achieve unique plants, beginners should focus on learning to grow their orchids well at first, looking for hybrids with vigor, robustness, and ease of culture and flowering, rather than highest quality blooms. They should also keep their own cultural conditions in mind and get crosses with species most suitable to their conditions. Even the finest plants will not be satisfactory if they are not grown well.
What is the hardest orchid to grow?
Habenarias, often considered one of the most difficult orchids to grow, are actually one of the easiest to care for. The most important key to their culture is watering. Asian species of Habenaria go through a monsoon-type growing season, developing from dormant corms in their native habitat. In early spring, rains soften the soil, sparking new growth. The plants are kept in a constant state of wetness until midsummer, when the rosettes of leaves seem to slow down. At this point, watch for emerging flower spikes from the center of the rosette.
When the foliage starts to appear dying, stop watering the plant and give no water at all. Place the plants on an electrical service panel where they will not receive any water, even accidentally. Repot in dry mix at this time.
In February to March, check for any growth through the top of the soil and water if necessary. If no signs of growth are present, put it back. An occasional misting by the middle of April can spark the plant if no signs of growth are present. Habenarias purchased as bare-root corms should not be planted until April, as damp soil mixes will start growth and alter their growth cycle unfavorably. The preferred mixes are soilless blends, such as ProMix HP.
What is the most beautiful type of orchid?
Phalaenopsis, also known as butterfly orchids, are a popular orchid species with elegant, flat flowers resembling flying butterflies. They have wide petals and a characteristic lip. These orchids can be purchased from a nursery and cared for using care tips. Cattleya orchids have large, striking flowers with royal-looking structures and are often frayed at the edge. Oncidium orchids, known for their small, many flowers on the stem, dance on the stem and are popular in colors like yellow, pink, and brown. These orchids can brighten up any room and can be purchased through a nursery’s webshop.
Which type of orchid is best for beginners?
Phaleenopsis are popular beginner orchids, with 80 or more of all orchids sold in the US being these long-flowering, easy-to-grow plants. They come in various colors and sizes, from full-sized elegant whites to tiny miniatures suitable for space-limited growing spaces. As an experienced phalaenopsis aficionado, you can try out fragrant species or variegated foliage available at orchid shows or mail order suppliers. Phaleenopsis are one of the least expensive to purchase, with a healthy plant in full bloom costing less than a cut flower arrangement and staying in flower longer.
They are undemanding in their cultural requirements, and should be kept in a warm spot with brightly diffused light. However, it is important not to overwater them or allow water to stand in the crown of the plant, as this can lead to diseases.
Phaleenopsis have dramatic, long-lasting flowers and gorgeous foliage. They are not demanding in their growing requirements and are great companions to phalaenopsis. There is a wide variety of species and hybrids to choose from, with Paphiopedilum sukhakulii being a popular choice due to its gorgeous foliage and long-lasting flowers. Hybrids, such as Maudiae type paphiopedilums, come in burgundy-red and green and white forms, both easy growers and can bloom more than once a year when well established.
Are Cattleyas hard to grow?
Cattleyas are a popular orchid due to their ease of cultivation. However, they often face common mistakes in their care, such as giving them too little light and too much water. To ensure proper growth, it is essential to follow proper lighting conditions and watering regimes. Cattleyas require indirect light, as they are acclimated to it and won’t flower without enough light. They grow on the side of trees in Central and South America, where they receive a decent amount of sunlight but are below the forest’s canopy, allowing the light to be filtered by tree leaves. This allows them to thrive in indirect light conditions.
How long do cattleya orchids last?
Cattleyas flowers, known for their versatility in corsages, come in various colors and shapes, with a typical flower size ranging from quarter inch to over ten inches. Hybridized Cattleyas bloom twice a year, producing two to three flowers per stem, lasting three to four weeks. Many hybrids have a delightful fragrance, and their life span can be over one hundred years. Cattleyas are suitable for beginners and make a great addition to any orchid collection.
Are cattleya orchids hard to grow?
Cattleyas are easy-to-grow orchids that prefer indirect light and don’t require frequent waterings. To care for Cattleyas, it’s essential to focus on proper lighting and watering. Common mistakes include giving the flowers too little light and too much water. Cattleyas thrive in indirect light, as they grow on the side of trees in Central and South America, which provides them with enough sunlight but is filtered by trees’ leaves.
They won’t flower if they don’t receive enough light. To ensure proper care, it’s essential to review the proper lighting conditions and watering regime, monitor the temperature, and repot the orchid when necessary.
Why is it so hard to keep orchids alive?
Orchids often face root rot, which can cause dropping leaves, lack of blooming, and unhealthy plant stalks. To address this issue, dig out potting material around the roots and look for black, mushy roots. If the roots are rotting, remove the orchid from its pot, tap off the potting material, trim off bad roots, and treat the remaining roots with fungicide. Allow the roots to dry before repotting.
If the leaves are turning yellow or dried out, it may be exposing the orchid to too much direct sunlight. Move the orchid to a cooler area with indirect sunlight. If the roots are too tightly tangled, it may indicate that the pot is not providing enough space for the orchid and may need repotting during its next dormancy cycle.
📹 Easy Orchids VS Difficult ones – Rating my Orchids by difficulty level! 🤔
Some Orchids are a joy to grow in a home, others.. not so much.. Here’s my list from easy to difficult! 00:00 – Intro 00:52 – 1.
I can understand getting rid of it since it had no fragrance, I got rid of mine for the same reason (also because I paid for a clone that was supposed to be deep yellow and it wasn’t). The RM x labiata just finished blooming so I need to try extricating it from the other plants in the same tray so I can send it on to you. It is fragrant, so no worries there and the blooms are large. I’m not going to unpot it unless you want me to, the pot will have to be cut off to repot it. If you want me to cut off the pot, I’ll wrap the roots in sphagnum and plop it in a larger pot to ship it.
Hey you big meanie! 😂😂😂😂😂 just kidding! Bullying that yellow bird! How dare you! 😂😂😂 ok i quit teasin! Those massive beasts are tough! They take along time! Sometimes! I dont blame ya! Im agrivated at mine! Its that huge and WONT BLOOM! Ihave it in such bright light I burnt some tips! Oh well it will bloom or burn up! 😂😂😂 so frustrating when i see a 3 pseudobulbs bloom and my massive mount wont! Ugh 😑 yes been rainy here too! Have a wonderful weekend! 😊
Oh man. My old flat was awful for us, but created a rainforest environment for the orchids! Phals hated it, kept losing them. The nobiles loved it, as did the bulbo and oncidiums. Moved house, this one has radiators (heat and dryness!!! What a godsend!), the phals are loving life. I lost 3 nobiles, 4 denphals, 3 oncidiums and I’m hoping I’ve saved one of the vandas (totally my fault, hung it near the radiator to drip dry not realising it was going to turn on 😬) My nobiles that survived threw maaaassive tantrums, dropped all leaves off all their canes over 1week. They’ve started growing new growths now (one has 4 growing, another has 1, but grew 4 flowers on the tip of an old cane…. 🙄 Drama queens) Love them, but it is like having a house full of teenagers XD
I LOVE Oncidiums, yet I completely agree with your ranking. I live in a temperate climate, but I still have problems getting the moisture levels consistent enough to prevent leaf wrinkling, but simultaneously dry enough to prevent fungus. I CANNOT grow a proper Miltoniopsis. My Paphs, Phals, and small Vandas are great! My Cattleyas are hit or miss.
I completely agree that paphs are some of the easiest to grow, but I was surprised to hear you say they don’t bloom for long. One of mine reliably blooms once a year for 4 months straight. I was also surprised to see Oncidiums ranked so poorly, but I completely agree with that! I thought it was just me. I think epiphytic Epidendrums are some of the easiest to grow in terms of tolerance to over- or underwatering, and they usually root ferociously when they’re repotted so they can be very forgiving. Catasetums may not be easy exactly, but they’re also very forgiving since you get a chance to start over every year. I also feel like Phragmipediums are easy because there’s no guesswork when watering—you can water every day if you want—but I know some people don’t want to water often so they’ll forget and have a dehydrated phrag. My most difficult orchid is a Stanhopea, because it’s the only one I’ve ever had that doesn’t like ANYTHING I do and it’s been hanging on in a sad state for years.
I have most of these orchids in my “tiny” collection of just about two years – with absolutely NO PEST situation!! Not even a mealy bug. All my orchids are outdoors; I live in a tropical zone; I water every other day, or if it rains – I count down when next to water; they are in shade, and facing east. I. do have the odd snail or African snail in my garden, but they seem to know their boundary (and I get rid of them at first sight). My other plants all seem OK, and seem to be pest free. I say “Seem”, because, there might come a day!! Currently, we are in drought season, so I water every day. Thanks a lot for this article – a blessing and a keeper (“Saved”).
Thank you Danni. I put two long rambles the other day from my computer (which I think is a different YouTube login) and I promise this is the last one: but you have really helped me in many ways. ☺️ First, you saved ALL my orchids from a black rot outbreak and I think even my old phalsnopsis who was hit the worst by far and is my baby(she only has one full leaf left now so time will tell but so far she is looking strong even on the partial leaves). And you use all natural remedies which is essential to me to try to only go that way since I was a child. You also reflamed my old love for orchids and educated me on them properly. I know a lot about many other types of plants, but orchids I was never as in depth as I have become in about two weeks of perusal your website – every break I get now. 😂 I was raised on a mangrove nursery and my father was friends with Kerry from Kerry Orchids who at the time was the largest orchid producer in the world (our nursery didn’t make money and was for environmental restoration but Kerry always treated us with the utmost respect and like family). I bring him up because I used to almost daily rummage in his garbage for orchids that the company would throw out. Not due to problems but because they weren’t to size standards. I had hundreds of orchids attached to trees, attached to my stairs, attached to my fence 😂 in pots in my house. (I also had other plants growing even in my fridge back then. My friends loved it bless them) It was awesome.
II killed 20 Phil’s and then found Miss Orchid girl. I put an in flower supermarket, phal under and LED and before the blooms died new buds emerged. Before I could take it pit of the plastic container, it started blooming! It is month two and I have six new blooms that have been blooming for two months! Now I need to study Danni’s oncidium articles!
I can’t believe that you put Oncidium at the bottom of your list. They are probably my favorite type of orchids. I don’t grow as many varieties as you – Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, Tolumnia, and Oncidium, plus I am just getting more into Paphiopedilum – but I have more individuals of the Oncidium alliance than any other type. Luckily, I have not suffered any pest problems (brought in mealies once on a flower shop mini-Phal but contained it quickly) so maybe that is the difference. I am in Ohio, USA, so a temperate climate may help me there. I liked seeing how your list compared to mine. It’s all about where you grow, isn’t it?
Uh oh I just got a small oncidium mix to try again. Many years ago I didn’t know about proper watering and diseases so sadly I killed a few. Cattleyas were the pest magnets for me and I couldn’t keep up with controlling them and had to give up. I’m trying a few mini ones again. I should try growing a slipper orchid one day. Thanks for all the growing tutorials
The larger vanda’s are a nuisance to water in the winter, in the summer I just hang them outside to drip. The neofinetia’s are a dream however 😀 they are so much easier to handle. Phals, oncidiums, cattleya’s, even the Vanilla planifolia is doing great ( I managed to lose one some years back) but the dendrobiums absolutely hate me! They keep getting spider mites and infecting the rest of my collection. I kind of gave up on them. I only have one dendrobium lobulatum in a terrarium, together with a few species orchids and a Trichophilia apache, which are doing great, but I will not be trying dendrobiums again any time soon🙄
I must agree with your list, especially having oncidiums on the bottom of the list. Everyone says, “they are the next EASY type of orchids to grow after Phals”. I beg to differ. When I first found them at a local grocer, I bought as many as I could afford; I found them so exotic… sadly to say only 3 out of 7 are still with me. They are spider mites MAGNETS. Currently still fighting them 😡. That being said, I do try out other orchids (I like the challenge) and what’s better than keeping your brain active by learning new things in your favourite hobby?? Thanks for making your articles, I always learn something new and add more to the wish list. Currently my absolute FAVE blooming orchid is Vandachostylis Pinky, first time bloomer and it smells like grape soda!
Thank you, great list! Good to know I’m not alone with oncidium dramas, tell me about it! Spider mites, aphids, Bush snails, take your pick because it has attacked my oncidium collection at some stage! For people perusal in the UK, dendrobium nobiles are pretty easy on the whole. I give them a good winter rest in my cold conservatory and they flower really well year on year, however, I do find that our UK summers aren’t quite long enough for late canes to fully mature.. I have on the odd occasion, decided to keep them warm and not give them the bloom triggering cool down, just so that all the canes have time to mature and wow! The flower show is so much better. It means you have to wait 2 years for your bloom show but when they do… They are amazing! Flowers that last 3 or 4 months even.
I feel you on the dendrobium nobiles. I am on my fifth try. The last one I got almost died except for some small keikis. I have them tied to a tree with partial shading. They’re growing slowly,and more keikis are growing. I got another potted one to try again. IDK. If this one doesn’t work, that’s it for them. I will watch in envy from afar, but keep my coins in m pocket.
Yeahhh I agree on the Onc and Milt subfamily… When I had orchids 15 years ago the Milt had the pests and other issues. I’ve criminally neglected my phals this past year due to both overwatering (sitting in puddles of water), underwatering (forgetting for a solid month) and keeping them in absurdly low light levels… Somehow I only lost 2 (one of which my dogs knocked over and broke) and 2 of them even rebloomed in spite of terrible levels of neglect. I’m rebuilding my collection now and rehabilitating those poor phals that have been through so much. One of the worst cases has even put out a basal keiki so she will live on. Most of them are in the 5-10 year range too, so not young plants at all.
Wow! The order of the list was somewhat surprising! My most recently purchased dendrobiums have been “easier” to get right (they are not den phals), but phals are a challenge for me. When I repot phals from the original medium, the roots all die and then they get set back for a long time. I have only had two phals to rebloom so far. I have six others and nothing. In fact, one barely puts out one new leaf a year. It’s a challenge to make them happy for some reason, even in the exact same spot and on the same schedule for water as the ones that bloom. My oncidiums seem to be okay, except I agree that if there’s any neglect (don’t water in time), you see it there first. Either way, it’s a joy to try to make all of my orchids happy. It’s a nice challenge and plants are so calming to be around. Thanks to your articles I have built up some confidence and have gone from two phals to a more diverse collection of about 25 orchids. Most recent purchase was Macodes petola. I hope I can make it happy.
If you live in the tropics slippee orchids are the most difficult because of their cool temp requirement and they dont flower for years. Though where i live there are a few native species but all ony grow above 1000 metres above sea level and require cold temps Phalaenopsis are easier here with the exception if the wether is not suitable such as hot rain. But if theyre planted outdoors in the perfect spot they legit need 0 care But they do flower based on the seasonal weather
I live in South Florida, and I’ve been able to grow Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum inside rooms with AC. I just had to modify the soil a bit. However because of the AC, orchids that do not like water, end up dying on me. I will try it one more time. But I think the problem is that the AC doesn’t like the roots dry up
I agree with your Oncidium ranking! I’ve lost a couple to diseases and the two I managed to save are doing very well. I have them on the trunk of mango trees in South Florida. They look happy, they’re bright green, lots of new growth and roots, no signs of infections, HOWEVER, they just will not bloom! It drives me crazy… like I have been babying you for years, give me at least ONE flower spike, please!!! They get direct sunlight in the afternoons and indirect in the mornings.
1. Dendrobiums 2. Phals 3. Oncidiums 4. Cymbidiums I tried Catleyas and did not like them, I avoid slippers and blubophillyms since they don’t like dry spells. I prefer orchids that can handle long droughts/dry spells… learnt the hard way that Cymbidiums like a lot more water. Found out that almost all my Dens and Oncidiums (surprisingly even Phals) can handle 2-3 months without water – don’t recommend it though as it will stress the orchid.
Wow thanks for this article! I always thought that Paphiopedilum and Cattleya are hard to grow! So now I think I’ll give it a shot 🙂 By the way, I find Dendrobium phalaenopsis are the easiest! It’s crazy, they just survive everything. I’m now doing an experiment trying to grow at different media, including without any medium and they do so well! (And I live in a dry area!)
nice article, for me the big Vanda’s are the most difficult to grow well, i kill them all, difficult to keep air humidity high in the winter in home, there roots ware 2 meters long, i tried to keep them in pot and they rotted very quickly, shame on me, i love them so much with there huge flowers and the one with the chocolate flavour is just amazing to fragrant your home, but yeah, really difficult if you dont have a greenhouse to keep them at high air humidity, thanks for your article, it helps a lot to learn for caring and knowing wish one needs the specific condition to keep healthy
I love perusal your articles, they are so educational. Fortunately for me Odontoglossums and Odontiodas do magnificently, Miltoniopsis do well also, I have a smattering of other cooler growing genera as companion orchids. All the heat loving orchids perish just crossing the threshold. Your observation is correct about Oncidiinae, they have a LOT of leaves and if you have many of them you will find pest control relentless. I use systemics in my greenhouse in order to stay ahead of it. The yard is a no chemical zone, the greenhouse is a war zone. Home growers might consider taking plants outside to use systemics (in a protected area) and let them fully dry before returning to the home. Almost all nursery grown plants are treated with systemics. Always use proper protective gear!
I live in North Carolina and have 5 oncidiums, 4 of them are doing great and enjoying their lives. The only one with problems is the species sotoanum which came with scales and cramped in a pot. I’m trying to get rid of the scales by watering with systemic granule water and recently repotted it. The bulbs shriveled but are still hanging on. Hope it could recover soon
Interesting.. In my climate, in Canada, I have no issue with Miltoniopsis. They are, with vandas, my favourite orchids. However, it is true: they require more care and humidity. The trick is to have a cool mist humidifier, close enough to the plants, which provides what they need – especially during dry period here (November to late April).
It’s funny because I live in a temperate/subtropical climate too (Buenos Aires City) and nobile-type Dendrobiums just grows alone, outside year round, like many other plants (including many orchids). I just try to keep them dry-ish during the colder months (it is quite rainy here and there’s no dry season) and they just bloom consistently. Many people have them just mounted in trees with other “tough” orchids that are pretty common around here like Oncidium bifolium (actually native to the area, quite hardy), Miltonia flavescens and Brassavola tuberculata (both natives to the northern part of the country), and some others (a friend of mine has a tree full of Dendrobium moschatum, Epidendrum type-radicans and Trichocentrum nanum). I get that it might be because you have them inside, but for my growing conditions (pretty much as outside plants, with some repairs) Dendrobium nobile’s are one of the most robust and rewarding orchids you might grow. Maybe, if you can in your house, try to grow them with less love and more “exposed” to the elements that the rest of the orchids that you mention in the article. And i’m not being trivial with the Dendrobium nobiles, learning to grow this one could open to you a whole lot of variety, particularly now that you’ve moved to a more tropical-ish climate. I think the “”mistake”” could be that you try to keep Dendrobiums (and Oncidiums from what I can see) as tropical plants when many of them are not, in fact as you mentioned they can suffer in tropical conditions; if I would to keep a Phalaenopsis as I keep my Dendrobiums and Oncidiums it would probably die within the first winter or maybe it won’t be able to bloom (depending on the hybrid, of course).
Cattleyas: Easy to grow, but somewhat challenging to bloom and to repot. Vandas: Impractical because of their huge roots; if there is an issue (i.e. fungal infection), recovery is not easy. Odontoglossums, Odontiodas, Beallaras: The higher the Odontoglossum percentage, the cooler you need to keep them; if you can keep them cool, they are rewarding.
I accidentally got Angrecum, to my surprise orchid grows like crazy! My conditions are dry, cold, low light, so no luck with cymbs, dendrobiums, vandas. But paphs and masdevallias growing just fine! Oncidiums are doing good, phals – not so much. Jewels not growing at all, no matter what. So it is trial and error for each environment.
I live in Southwest Miami 2 / 2023 and I had to have a shade house built in the yard 20 ft by 20 ft went to every Orchid show every event in Florida, had a notebook with all the names all the different classifications, over 1,000 orchid I had of course, the most expensive are the first ones that died and I killed quite a few of them, I lied I killed a lot of them but a lot of them survived my shade house still looks full later I learned more when I went to an orchid Club well I’ll still love my lady slippers, cats and others oh, I just learned the hard way I suggest to anyone that likes orchids to go to an orchid Club and also watch these Miss Orchid girl articles thank you
I live in a humid subtropical climate, cold in winter, very hot in summer, & very damp year round. I’ve lost 2 phals (one was a mini) so far, due to fungus & crown rot. I plan to try again, but I’m waiting a bit. Probably will get another phal because those are the most available & affordable where I live, but I’ve been wondering if another variety might work better. With both of my failures, I caught the issue & treated with hydrogen peroxide, but I was too late 😢 they both lost all their leaves within 36 hours, it happened so fast!
buna daniela. urmaresc canalul tau, imi place cand cumpar o noua orchidee sa vad parerile altora de cum le cresc, ambientele … in article de azi m-am indragostit de phalaenopsis world bonnie vasquez. eu traiesc in italia, si am intrebat la cei de unde cumpar si nu o au. imi poti da un site de unde o pot cumpara inafara italiei. multumesc. am inteles ca esti romanca, dar unde traiesti acum?! cristina, placere sa te cunosc.
But u know i started getting into epiphytes from Dendrobiums cause here in India Dendrobiums are the cheapest orchids and available in abundance and many people end of killing them. Never happened to me although I killed two Phals and thought they are the difficult ones. But hoping of getting one more Phal to try it…. Hope it works this time.
I’ve had the most trouble with my Onc. Sharry Baby. It has produced new growths (and even has 3 directions of growth going on) and has bloomed, but it always seems like the leaves are yellowing and needing to be trimmed or end up being lost entirely. Not sure how to stay on top of this one’s care! My other Oncidium grows beautifully.
I’m surprised you left the vandas so far down the list …. in my opinion they are the easiest to take care of I even grew mine mounted on a tree outside in an extremely hot and dry environment with highest temperature reaching 52° and they’re still healthy however they haven’t bloomed for me yet probably because I get intimidated by feeding them and I’m afraid if I do it might be the wrong nutrients and might end up killing the orchid but for the past 6 years they are still growing stronger. Also I would’ve thought you’d put vanilla at the bottom