The best color for a greenhouse should be clear, transparent plastic or glass, as these materials allow most of the light spectrum to penetrate the greenhouse and the plants therein. Most commercially available greenhouses come in clear covers to allow most of the natural light to penetrate and be absorbed by the plants. The walls of a greenhouse need to be clear to allow sunlight to get inside, and greenhouse panes should be durable to withstand years of changing weather.
Choosing which walls will work best between green and clear walls in a greenhouse depends on what you are growing. Clear walls work best for plants that thrive in full sunlight, while green walls help plants that do not. Covering your greenhouse with a green (or another color) material will prevent some of the spectrums of natural sunlight from penetrating. Fiberglass panels are one of the best roofing materials for greenhouses, and for cold climates, prioritize materials like double-pane glass and polycarbonate panels that provide better insulation and heat retention.
In this guide to greenhouse roof ideas, we’ll guide you through the best materials and essential factors to consider when choosing the perfect roof for your greenhouse. Glass, polyethylene film, polycarbonate sheets, and fiberglass panels are common options to consider, each with unique features that benefit various types of plants in different ways. Polycarbonate or glass make good roofing materials, while vinyl or polycarbonate panels work well for siding. Concrete or gravel can be used for greenhouse floors.
Green or clear greenhouse covers may reduce the overall light intensity in the greenhouse, depending on your garden zone. In general, I would go with white since you’re going to be battling heat. It is permissible to choose a material of any color, but shades of green, blue, and red absorb three times more light. Thick or dark colored frames tend to absorb light creating shadows, so the greenhouse interior should have as much white surface area as possible. A great alternative is Polycoolite by Polygal, which only shows a 50 light transmission, but it is an overall light transmission.
📹 Tip Tuesday: Greenhouse Plastic – White Vs Clear
For today’s Tip Tuesday we are talking about greenhouses (surprise surprise I know lol ). More specifically Greenhouse Plastic …
What is the best color for a greenhouse wall?
Hartley Botanic offers a range of greenhouse color palettes, including natural colors like leaf greens, stone shades like deep greys and pale off-whites, and neutral tones like bright white. These greenhouses are built to last and can be painted in almost any color to create the desired visual effect and protect the metalwork for longer. The color palette covers most of the needs of gardeners and landscapers, ensuring a high-quality aesthetic finish for your greenhouse.
Is black plastic good for greenhouse?
The objective of our panda film is to facilitate healthier growth, conserve energy, and mitigate the impact of pests and diseases. The product features a dual-sided design, with the white side maximizing light rays for plant growth and the black layer serving to block out unwanted light. The dual-sided sheeting is designed to cater to the diverse needs of plants, offering two tools in one roll and ensuring optimal growth and reduced energy consumption.
What color plastic is best for greenhouses?
The decision to pursue greenhouse gardening is contingent upon a number of factors, including the local climate, the specific objectives of the gardener, and the necessity for shade. In climates with low temperatures, clear plastic is an appropriate material for greenhouse construction. Conversely, green plastic is well-suited for use in areas with high temperatures and abundant sunlight. It is of the utmost importance to assess the degree of partial shading and to select the most appropriate shade cover in order to achieve optimal growth and protection.
Does greenhouse color matter?
The article underscores the significance of selecting greenhouse covering materials with high clarity for the optimal growth of plants, enhanced energy efficiency, and increased crop yield. By prioritizing clarity over color, growers can create healthy environments that ensure the success of their greenhouse operations. To obtain further information, please refer to the HubSpot Call-to-Action Code.
Why are greenhouses painted white?
Shading paint, also known as chalk, is applied to greenhouse roofs during warm periods to protect crops from full sun and high temperatures. It reflects light, reducing the greenhouse’s temperature and protecting the crop from light damage. Royal Brinkman offers various greenhouse shading agents, including Q4 White, which can be used throughout the season. Diffuse coatings are designed to maximize light transmission, promoting better plant and fruit growth.
In floriculture, diffused light has been shown to increase growth, while in vegetable production, it increases production and improves crop quality. It is essential to use one layer of shade paint for the entire season and remove it at the end of the season.
Is green or white plastic better for a greenhouse?
White plastic sheeting is a crucial tool for maintaining a consistent greenhouse temperature, protecting plants from wind damage, and ensuring a safe environment. IRAC Greenhouse Plastic, also known as thermal film, contains infrared additives to keep heat in and anti-condensate additives to prevent condensation from dripping onto plants. This thermal film traps sunlight energy, raising the overall greenhouse temperature, enabling plants to thrive. Available in various sizes and tailored to the greenhouse’s length, IRAC Greenhouse Plastic is an excellent choice for greenhouses.
What color polycarbonate is best for a greenhouse?
The color of polycarbonate plays a significant role in determining light transmission. Greenhouses are typically constructed with clear polycarbonate, which allows for optimal light penetration.
What color shade cloth is best for a greenhouse?
Switching between different shade cloth colors during the growing season is possible, with black being suitable for warmth and sun protection and white for cooling and speeding growth. 50 white woven shade cloth is likely acceptable for most plants across zones. The best shade cloth depends on various factors, so experiment with different colors and percentages to control sun exposure and heat retention, ensuring a healthy growing environment.
What Colour should a greenhouse be?
Greenhouse color palettes include natural colors like leaf greens, stone shades like deep greys and pale off-whites, and neutral tones like bright white. Popular options include Hypca White, Verona Light, Country Stone, Olive Leaf, True Taupe, Mist, Smoke Green, Olive Grey, Vista Grey, Iron Grey, Inchyra Blue, Bronze, Matt Forest Green, Forest Green, Manganese, Ruby Red, Black Olive, Dark Bronze, Matt Black, and Black. If your garden already has a strong color scheme, we can create a custom paint finish for your aluminium greenhouse.
What not to put in a greenhouse?
Greenhouses provide an ideal environment for cultivating exotic plants, but not all plants thrive in controlled environments. Giant trees and shrubs, which can outgrow their designated spaces and require extensive pruning, can create an unsightly and unmanageable jungle. Invasive species, which can spread rapidly and outcompete native species, can also pose a threat to the environment. Containing these plants within a greenhouse can be challenging, and if they escape, they may cause harm to the surrounding environment.
Therefore, it is crucial to research and choose non-invasive alternatives to maintain the delicate balance of local ecosystems. In summary, greenhouses offer an excellent opportunity to extend the growing season, cultivate exotic plants, and create an optimal environment for a variety of crops.
Is blue plastic good for a greenhouse?
Solar radiation wavelengths can be blocked, allowing blue and red light to pass through, resulting in increased production and improved quality. This is due to the transmission and high reflection of green-yellow light by leaves. However, plant species may react differently to each type of solar wavelength, causing morphological changes such as fruit or flower number, stem length and diameter, and color. The best plastic cover color for a specific crop can optimize production and commercial value.
New agricultural plastics containing fluorescent pigments can convert ultraviolet radiation into blue or red light (faded films) or green radiation into red light (orange-red colored films). The most important parameters for these plastics include total light transmission, spectral distribution, fluorescent effect, and photostability.
📹 Top 5 Greenhouse Covering Materials
Top 5 materials used to cover greenhouses today. Some Youtuber’s who made greenhouses: @Bigelowbrook …
I bought a prefab greenhouse with single wall polycarbonate that was too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter (SE Montana). I had to move it on the property after two seasons that required taking it apart. I took advantage of the move to put it on a block foundation, add power, lights, and ventilation, and most importantly, covered the greenhouse with Solexx twin wall. I put the original single wall polycarbonate back on OVER the Solexx and secured it all to the wooden frame, much like the greenhouse at 08:30 in this article. I mostly use the 8×16 greenhouse for starting seeds for the main garden season, and growing greens like lettuce, kale, chard and spinach under domes for winter salads with supplemental heat from heat mats. I also. Have close to 100 gallons of water in 5-gallon pails and milk jugs for thermal mass. Today is sunny and with the outside temperature of 25 degrees, the inside temperature is 74 degrees at 1:30 in the afternoon. The low last night was 13, and the low inside near knee level was about 27 degrees ( I was tracking the air temp on the water jugs) The peppers and the eggplants that I held over from last season as an experiment, that were sitting on the heat mats are OK, but a couple that were not on heat mats got frosted, though if I had remembered to cover them, they would have been just fine. Again, looking at the greenhouse pictured in the article at 08:30, my door faces east the right hand side faces north. My vertical sides on the north side are insulated with 1″ foil faced bead board, and the whole north roof is faced with aluminized Mylar bubble sheet.
I built my first 11′ x 14′ poly tunnel several years ago using what I already had – a roll of 6 mil “visqueen” from Lowes. The skin lasted exactly 2 years, and it was great. I moved it and rebuilt it this spring and used the same material again for the same reason – it’s what I had. The benefits of having any kind of greenhouse are so great that you really shouldn’t put it off because you are waiting to afford something better.
2 years ago I used the corrugated panels on the outside of a framed greenhouse. Sealing all seams with silicone. The first summer day with low humidity, I used insulating 3 mil clear plastic and stapled to the inside of the frame. with the clear tape to seal all edges. I used a clear silicon exterior caulking adhesive and staples to attach. This seems to be working well. The air gap is the width of the 2×4 I have no idea what the R value is. I think because there is no wind stress on the plastic, it still looks brand new. Because I waited for the low humidity, I am not having any discoloration between. This is only on the sides, as I use the ends for ventilation. I am still working on having both on the ends. Hope this helps. BTW it was tedious to build, as I matched the hills and valleys carefully on the ends, so they could be completely sealed with the silicone and not allow moisture between the layers.
My uncle used the corrugated panels. He used them for a 5×5 greenhouse and doubled the corrugated panels by making a 3/4″ gap between the panels. It was nice and warm and I’m considering doing the same at our house. P.S. at our previous home we made a 2×3 greenhouse with used windows that we got from the habitat for humanity restore store.
I have 2 greenhouses covered with a single layer of poly. In Tn i can grow lots of cool weather crops in the fall, winter and spring, without heat. If it makes it to next April it will be on 8 years. If not i will replace it. I bought the poly in 2013 and bought a long enough roll to cover the first one twice for about $200.00. I bought it from Amish in South West Ky in Elkton, KY. They have a high volume of sells so they can sell cheaper than some people.
I used the big box store corrugated panels for a chicken coup. Got clear & smoke panels both for testing. Placed a clear then smoke alternating over sleeping/roost areA. Idea of smoke was to draw warmth from winter sun. Worked very nice n chickens liked it & I was happy, provided winter sun to get girls up n moving n happy. I’d reach in & be quite nice even on 20° days. We get snow & of course would always melt off of smoke colored panels first. After 3-4 years, one day had a hard hail storm. Some hail measure 3/4″ in width. The clear panels it punched a few holes in, (not many) & next panel which was smoke received No holes. Both panels were the same thickness and size installed same way. The smoke survived with out holes, but clear not as well. Realize in a green house only clear be used. Just what I learned.
FYI, My father built a greenhouse using corrugated semi-clear (tinted, summer temperature was too hot) corragated plastic sheets. We fastened the sheets to the roof timbers using corrugated molding strips like these from Lowes – Tuftex Wood Solid Roof Panel Closure Strip. Over the years only had sheets loosen up a few times. Installation wasn’t too bad.
I use a corrugated Lexan in a Greca pattern from Amerilux. It is called soft lite and disperses the light so you do not have any shadows and it penetrates the canopy at multiple angles so you obtain much more growth lower on the plant. I used it on our first greenhouse and am now installing it on our second greenhouse which we are building.
Thank you for making this. I suggest for your research on corrugated plastic panels and a space between layers, to try experimenting with a combination of drilling matching holes in panels, stacking something like rubber washers for garden-hose connects as spacers in between, and for a pass-thru fastener using an aluminum pop-rivet. Inexpensive and easy. I have a growing/greenhouse project in my mind for the future to address current threats to our society’s food security by being tethered to long, complex supply chains spanning multiple continents. A second job the panels can do is be used to recover the distilled water condensate where convenient. Best of Health to you.
Additional info : polytunnel/hoophouse polythene can last 10+years if researched. I had some that lasted 15 years before I dismantled the structure. Also, never use corrugated plastic panels in areas of extreme cold or high winds. This stuff is really brittle if hit by flying debris, or flexed in sub-zero temps. The best bang-for-your-buck is the inflated doubled polythene. A high tec example is The Eden Project, Cornwall, UK, where their laviathan greenhouse domes hold rainforests and savanas. Well worth a visit.
Try building with two layers of clear corrugated sheets. Build similarly to house leaving air space in between. Where the outside is horizontally hung and the interior is vertically hung it seemed to baffle the cold air. I also used sticky window foam insulation on overlapping edges that I was screwing together on exterior walls.
There are two types of rigid roof panels sold at Home Depot and Lowes, Palruf which you showed in the article, lacks the strength needed to be durable and is known to break under adverse weather conditions, not recommended for use in direct exposure to the elements. The other panel, Suntuf is designed to withstand adverse weather conditions, I used these panels on my Ana White barn style greenhouse in central Maine and have never had a problem with snow loads, etc. The Suntuf is also a UV protected panel and has a transmission rate of 90% in the clear panel. The polyethelene rolls if bought at Home Depot/Lowes is transluscent at best and seems to block the transmission of hig red light, the result are plants are elongated, not a good GH solution. The other option, Home Depot sells the double layered panels which you mentioned, good for non flexible applications. Here in New England home grown green houses are primarily used to extend the growing season and generally not used in the colder months of the year. The greenhouse can allow one to start the growing season well into April and at the other end into October.
Thank you. great information. We live in N.W. Montana and on the side of a mountain getting more snow and colder temps, snow shedding, very short days into the winter but still wanting to grow at least 10-11 months out of the year. So this information is important for use. We are planning and will be building ours this summer 20×40 and unless something changes will be using double wall plastic inflated. Thank you again.
With grand Soler minimum coming we will all need to use green house to lengthen in the growing season. A vidio on framing the green house would be interesting. You. Would use the poly panels for the outside and add a airgap and second layer of poly sheet on the inside of the frame where it would last longer.
I just watched this article today. I’d like to add to technosarus’s comment, which by the way is an excellent idea. In addition to adding corrugated plastic on the roof, install a layer of plastic film 1st on the roof top, then install corrugated plastic on top of plastic film.Then drill 1 inch holes thru the roof trusses and side walls, install another plastic film layer inside for the roof and side walls, finally install blowers thru-out to add a layer of air to blow thru drilled holes similar to a double wall poly plastic film. Just a thought as I just bought an 20.5 acre property here in Monarch, MT and plan to build solar for my all year round 3 bedroom cabin which I will have 2 DIY Mr. Cool 24,000 BTU units for heating and cooling, 2 Mr. Heater propane wall mounted units kicking out 30,000 BTU for upstairs and downstairs, tin roof, gutters and downspouts for a rain water catch system. I will also instal in the green house geothermal & another DIY Mr. Cool 24,000 BTU dedicated to a solar system. Probably be in the summer of 2022 for the greenhouse build. I really have enjoyed this article and if anyone has any suggestions that would help me for my build I would love to hear them because I want to be able to grow year round vegetables and cannabis. Thank you.
I just had this article pop up in my feed, it’s perfect timing as I’m in the process of deigning an three season 12’x20’ greenhouse, so far I’m leaning towards the corrugated panels 26″x8’ for the roof since we live in a high snow load zone. Im looking at using DURABLE REINFORCED TRANSPARENT PVC PLASTIC TARPAULINS PROTECTIVE COVER: Thick Material, High Temperature Heat-sealed, Firm, Tear-resistant, Durable. Transparency: 99%; Water Resistance Index: 100%; Thickness: About 0.39mm thick. I just have to research it a bit more. Thanks for sharing this article.
we have an old carriage house on our property with our small 9×11 foot greenhouse next to it. We have a plan to demolish both and build a 30×50 foot greenhouse or a 60×35 foot greenhouse, our plan is either traditional or a hoop house on top of a box structure to make it much taller. We also might attempt a barn roof style, our requirements are that it must have a rectangular base, be around 30-60 feet tall, no more than that though (we plan on having palm trees in there so it must be tall, but not so tall it could shade the garden near it.) it must shed snow well, and last a long time. I was thinking glass because our current 9×11 is recycled glass, but ofc that’s too expensive, so then I was thinking polycarbonate, but that’s kind of expensive too right? I really want your opinion, and I don’t think the flimsy plastic wrap poly stuff would work for where I live where it gets down to -30 sometimes and we get 3+ feet of snow.
I built a greenhouse out of corrugated clear plastic. Only my roof is clear, my walls are solid with foam insulation. It is summer and now that it’s completely enclosed. I can’t keep it cool with a inlet and outlet fan, and a window air conditioner. If it’s 90 outside, it’s over 120, as my thermometer only goes to 120. The ceiling is really low, and flat, so that doesn’t help. I’m sure it would be great for winter time. Anyway, I’m thinking of framing a sloped ceiling above the existing ceiling, and covering it with solexx. I imagine the heat will trap between the two, and I can vent it. Also, maybe I can use it as solar heat in the winter. Being that, not sure if I should use the solexx or corrugated plastic again.
Maybe it would be cost prohibitive, but if you wanted an air gap, for insulation purposes, using the corrugated plastic, you could just mount the plastic on the outside of the greenhouse frame as usual, and on the inside of the greenhouse frame. Personally, I like the idea of using a blower to blow air between layers of poly to achieve the same thing. I may have to try that with my small greenhouse.
Imagine the weather in the area like wind storms, hail, etc. would determine what material a person would use. Recycle old windows or use more than one option within budget until afforded then wearability can be monitored like a test to see what would be best. Glass is so beautiful! Did not know there were so many options until now.
Nice breakdown. Looks like polycarbonate panels are likely the best choice for my plans for off-house cold climate Winter solarium. I want to be able to the walls off in the Spring but leave the roof as a shade in the Summer. I may look into using the corrugated panels on top of the double walled panels as a way of protecting the roof from moisture, depending on flashing options.
I built a hybrid using recycled sliding glass doors and Windows with a corrugated plastic roof. I did have to replace the roof after about 7 years because i it wasn’t adequately supported and sequered and that caused warping in the heat. It also became very brittle and fractured as I was removing the old panles. The price was great and I figure most of the issues were do to used error.
Learning how to make and store heat energy is the key to using a single surface greenhouse you can use a. J-tube ..to make heat and then use a storage bench to geothermal store that heat and radiate it out into the greenhouse you can also use a downflow propane furnace blow it into a cavity down the center of the greenhouse and then it will release heat to the plants as well you can also put water containers around the outside of the greenhouse daisychain them together and heat that water to 73° with a propane water heater and a circulating pump in the radiant heat comingfrom water..& Will do the job
I used corrugated fiber glass panels from Home Depot. Inside the greenhouse I put layer of pool covering from Amazon. Pool covering is cheap because its not though to be used for a greenhouse. Anything for greenhouse is expensive. It’s very durable too. There’s 4 inch gap between the panels and pool covering since the greenhouse is made with 2×4 lumber.
You might also want to include ETFE film in such a review as a 6th option .. It’s being more and more often used as the top clear coat layer in semi-flexibe solar panels because .. and in recent years has also started into other glazing applications like sky lights, green houses, etc .. it’s more clear than most other plastics (some types are even more clear than glass can be) .. more durable/longjevity than other films in the middle between glass and polycarbonate (20-30 yr) .. Adds self cleaning that few of the other options have .. cost is in the middle, less expensive than glass .. more expensive than poly-film initially, but in the long run might be less expensive than poly-film given the numerous (5-7) poly-film replacements over that 20-30 year ETFE life time .. ETFE economies scale allot, small ETFE projects are far more expensive per sq ft, but the larger the project the more it becomes economically dominate .. that economic scaling is partially due to bulk order discounts of the ETFE itself, and bulk discounts of the fabrication mechanisms .. but also because of the ETFE’s lighter weight, the larger the project the more expensive any heavier option’s support structure becomes… there are others of course .. I’ve attached a few example links .. etfeproducts.co.uk/horticultural-etfe/ .. or .. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ETFE … or .. ceresgs.com/an-introduction-to-etfe-glazing-for-greenhouses/
Seems like I will do my usual; scab a variety of those materials together, probably the corrugated, filtered, with a fan pushing buried air to cool the GreenHouse. PS; they have foam ‘ends’ for the corrugated panels, They could be layered to give a second elevation to set additional corrugated panel layer, i.e. two ‘pane’ls.
I covered my wife’s DYI 10 x 9 greenhouse 20 years back with corrugated fiberglass panels. It was great then. We moved from SC to TN and brokedown house and used panels again when raised. Moved again in TN, discarded panels at that time, but they were still good. Have just re-assembled frame of house this month and will go back to some corrugated panels on sides and poly on top. Thanks so much for you website.
Hi! Hope you are well and love the articles. We are planning to building a greenhouse this summer using 16mm polycarbonate panels. I am aware that we need to tape/seal the top end of the panel but what do we do with the bottom end? Do we tape it with solid tape (same as the top end) or use the air flow tape and end cap that allows moisture to escape the panel? We are hoping to use the greenhouse in the winter months (living in Calgary) but are unsure of how to treat the bottom end of the panel as we want to keep as much R value as we can. Thanks so much in advance for your time!
i was going to turn my pole barn frame into a green house *(at least temporarily) and I had thought of going with the corrugated panels on the outer frame with a poly sheet stapled to the inner side.. that would get me about 6″ of air gap easily relished with a small fan providing a positive pressure.. i think it will keep my green house from getting too hot in the summer and warm in the winter as I live in north FL and that wouldn’t take much if I connect my fan to a thermostat I hope to be able to have it self regulating without constant attention. a “smart” greenhouse. Thanks for this article.
Maybe try using some rubber stripping or weather stripping on the ends of the corrugated sheets as spacers to create an air gap then seal the ends with a liquid rubber like Flex Seal to seal it which would also allow for some flex…. Hmmm name seems rather appropriate lol. Not sure of how much that would run, but I would imagine the price shouldn’t be too steep. and with this method, you could double up on the stripping to create a larger gap, or stay at one strip, and add more sheets of the panels to create more gaps. They also make foam rubber “plugs” for the ends of corrugated rooves to keep pests out, but I’m sure they would also help with the insulative factor.
Since corrugated planes are so cheap, could it potentially make sense to double layer them for increasing R value? Like by fastening it on the top of the 2×4/2×6 stick frame, then another layer fastened on the bottom side of the 2x4s to get that air gap. Similar to the method used to increase R value of poly with an air gap. Just looked up how much corrugated panels cost, and tractor supply store has a 10 pack of 26″x8’ for $120. For that price I might just try a small build double or triple layer build to start, and see how well it can work in a growing zone of 2. Really don’t like the idea of poly wrap since a windy day could potentially blow a tree branch tearing the wrap.
First off, I think I’ve learned a thing or two perusal your articles. Thank you. I am wondering if it is possible to lay fiberglass over a geodesic dome and sand and polish smooth to a close to glass like transparent finish. I would really like to hear your thoughts on the possibilities if it’s possible.
I’m planning to build a large-ish greenhouse, but a little fancier. Glass would be ideal, but way out of budget, I don’t know the price of solax, but I have some samples of it, and it does look decent. I am thinking the corrugated sheets, they are fairly cheap and last a while. We already have poly film, it works, but the outdoor cats climb on it and put holes in it to the point that the little fan can’t keep up with the air lose, negating the insulation factor of the double layer. I’m thinking about how to cat proof this, but they can get anywhere. The corrugated panels seen to turn yellow over time, but I don’t know how old the ones I’ve seen were. The most important aspect for me is insulation and ventilation, but I want to do passive venting instead of using fans.
I’m Just now seeing your article for the first time and I to are looking into the carbon poly panels from Home Depot. How did you make out and what did you end up doing with yours? I was thinking it was it possible to double them up using the foam installation product in longer screws. Did you try this?
I have a question…my husband and I recently built a raised garden bed approx 8 x ten with tall sides to keep animals out, however we live in an area in which we get hail storms, can I use an opaque white tarp over my garden for any extended period? Will my veggies still grow under there if I leave it on for several days? This would be temporary until we have time to turn it into a greenhouse…thank you?
A friend built a “barn” greenhouse for multi-purposes. They covered that in Solexx… it’s still wonderfully intact, about 15 years later, sitting on a winter-high-wind-prone hill, full sun. We might use some, to convert a Costco canopy roof frame, into a greenhouse that lasts longer. Soft plastic might be cheapest and easiest to use, but, I really hate the fact that thousands of miles of soft plastic sheeting must be replaced so often, and becomes landfill horrors that just keep coming. My opinion is, that due to how things have become, it’s really important to rearrange the official rules to encourage using far more durable materials, instead of creating mountains of rotted soft plastics. Some things that people might need to know, kinda related. Because SOME areas charge more tax on quirky little features… 1. Making structures more “permanent” might ADD to your property tax bill, if you use a hard covering for your greenhouse, such as glass, Twinwall or polycarbonate products…. BUT…if you instead use the rollable plastic sheeting or Solexx, those are considered “soft” coverings; the Soft covering materials do NOT add to your property tax bill. 2. If you frame a structure…let’s stay it’s attached to your house….and it is just a skeleton frame…that is NOT supposed to add to your property tax bill, similar as to closets and otherwise non-traffic areas are not supposed to be taxed. For instance, a bare greenhouse frame is not supposed to be taxed, because it’s just “bones”.
I’m mid-design of a 12 x 20 using corrugated poly from HD. For a second layer I’ll be stapling very thin cheap plastic to the inside of the frame. That will give a couple inches without using a blower. Thin cheap will work because it’s just to test the design. If I decide to upgrade, an inside the frame layer of corrigated poly may be added once the cheap film dies. Even if I go with a conduit frame with not very much wood I’ll use the same test and upgrade regime. Replace staples with duct tape for that version.
I wonder why you would do a greenhouse covering material and not mention Dura-Film Thermax or Solar Wrap Greenhouse plastic. It lasts for up to 8 years and has an R-Value with a 15 – 20% heat savings at least It will survive a hail storm and take a heavy load of snow. It is also anti-drip and anti-tear. I know because I have used the Dura-film in Canada.
Informative article… I’m going to go with either poly carbonate or a polyethylene covering just because of the price and the shape of my greenhouse… I’m using plastic pipe as a frame so it’s kind a hard to nail on panels I would imagine… Anyway my sons doing it for me so he may not agree with any of this… I’m just shopping for materials
I have a 6′ x 20″wide path X 8′ long behind my storage SHEAD and Neighbours chain link fence facing south. What construction material would you suggest for a starter greenhouse, for sprouting new plants in spring from the seedlings I started in the Crawl space under grow lights during winter here in southern On, Canada?
I work with plastic. I like the idea of corrugated plastic . I don’t like the bother of using the foam gaskets or cost of them. Using screws and the dome shaped rubber washers would be simplest. For underside support instead of foam I will try using 1/4 inch thick material. Maybe plywood and route the profile in to it on one long edge. Then slide the edge up to the underside of previously installed panels and fastening that to the wood trusses. For the inside air space use 2×2 inch wood and make frames to stretch film over and simple fasten those on the underside of wood framing for air space.
Double and triple wall polycarbonate works way better than glass pane windows, even double glass paint windows with gas in between because glass does not break down sunlight it concentrates it kind of like a magnifying glass so if you want burning spots on your food or plants because it’s getting burnt and turning yellow in circles then Glass is the way to go, but if you don’t want that, then polycarbonate is the way to go. I personally have a three wall polycarbonate. I’m going on almost 21 years of not replacing them so it depends on the climate. It depends on if you have the cap so that bugs and water and stuff stay out of the air chambers then it will last as long as you, want to keep in mind it ain’t permanent because the UV rays will make it brittle is what I am told. I haven’t found that yet.
How does anyone get more than a year out of a polyethylene sheet? I bought one of those portable plastic greenhouses about 5 years ago. The original covering was totally deteriorated after the 2nd season. I replaced it with 6mil poly sheet. It only lasted 1 season. I covered it a 2nd time and tried to protect it from the summer sun. I’m going into my 2nd season. But it’s showing signs of deterioration and I don’t think it is going to last another full season. In case you are wondering, I have a article of me putting the new cover on the greenhouse.
We used corrugated plastic sheets and it looked beautiful until the very next day the sky blessed us with pea size hail. The material happened to be so brittle, ended up with fist+ size holes in the celling. Won’t recommend it as a roof covering (walls withstood fine). It was pricy for my wallet and I haven’t come up yet with better idea for replacement.
Using two layers of Glass. Polly Corrigated Panels If you can seal them in websites. With a gap between You could fill the gap with Nitrogen. That’s what the use in dual or triple pane windows Nitrogen is heavy gas No need for pressure just fill completely and silicon over There is a UTube article DIY refilling dual pane windows… ?????? That’s how I found out… Why use Nitrogen It doesn’t have moisture Moisture is what transports temperatures…
Thank you. Information presented here is useful and interesting. Background music tacked on is not useful or interesting. What exactly is it there for ? I found it painfully irritating. Like discovering, just as you go to lie down that some fool has put a bed of nails on your comfortable bed just to to make it “look more interesting” : ). Thanks again, though, for the carefully researched content and eloquent presentation. Pity about the muzak.
Another thing with glass and steel structures, like the Crystal Palace and the many other National Exposition buildings that were built, supposedly in the 1800’s, is their ability to burn spontaneously to the ground, as what happened to all of those magnificent structures, so we are told… Sad really. A friend of mine said, “green houses do get hot”!!!….”No sh*t”, i said to him. Not seen one achieve blast furnace temperatures myself though.
You want UVs to GO IN your greenhouse. Plants need those UVs to grow healthy and to produce tasty veggies and fruits. This is why so many greenhouses have pest problems, coz plants are unhealthy due to lack of UVs. Sadly, there are very few manufacters selling materials that fully let UV through. This is why greenhouse tomatoes taste so poor for example, (and it’s even worse when they’re hydroponics).
Don’t know why I watched this, not my interest. I use many different substrates in my work. From what you are saying I would go for 0.9mm PET sheeting. Relatively cheap, easy to work with even for an amateur, very tough, very durable, completely recyclable, easy to bend, scew, nail or glue to a surface. It does have a tendency to scratch. If I was building a greenhouse that has to be long lasting and on a budget, I would use PET 0.9mm as the outer layer and 0.5mm as the inner layer. Yes that is half of a millimeter and 0.9 of a millimeter. It will withstand goofball sized hail. I purchase 0.9 sheets 2500mm x 1250mm for R 325.09 (roughly $ 20.00 USD) . Easily cut with a box-cutter
Give your life to Jesus Christ. Believe and pray: God, I know that I am a sinner and unless you save me I’ll be lost forever. I believe that Jesus Christ is the Son of God, died on the cross for my sins and arose on the 3rd day. I accept Jesus Christ as my Lord and Savior. In the name of Jesus Christ, Amen. Just not sure? Then say aloud: Jesus Christ, if you’re the truth then reveal yourself to me. What do you have to lose? While the latter isn’t salvation its a step in the right direction.