Ways To Irrigate Grass On Sandy Soil?

Sandy soil is notoriously porous and does not retain moisture as well as other soil types. The large spaces between sand particles allow water to pass through quickly, making it difficult to grow grass in sandy soil. To achieve a lush green lawn, you need to select grass varieties that thrive in this environment and water them less.

To grow grass in sandy soil, you need to amend the soil with organic matter, choose the right grass seed, water less, and use mulch for moisture retention. Sandy soils require more frequent and smaller amounts of water than clay soils, but less water is needed to wet the soil to the 4-inch depth. Irrigation on sandy soil needs to be more frequent and in smaller amounts than on heavier soils. Water quickly and for short periods, just long enough to thoroughly wet the root zone.

Sandy soils should get 1/3 of an inch of water three times a week for very sandy soils, and ⅓ inch of water three times a week for soil high in sand. Silty soils are prone to erosion, so it is important not to overwater. Incorporate organic amendments like compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold into the sandy soil to improve water retention and absorb water quickly and drain well.

In summary, growing grass in sandy soil requires a combination of organic matter, selecting the right grass seed, watering less, and using mulch for moisture retention. By following these steps, you can transform your barren yard into a lush, green oasis.


📹 5 Super Easy Ways To Amend Sandy Soil

Have sandy soil? Check out these 5 easy ways from chop and drop, vermicomposting, charging wood ash, back to eden method …


How do you improve water retention in sandy soil?

Sandy soils are often non-wetting or water repellent, making them difficult to manage. To overcome this, a quality surfactant-based wetting agent is recommended to break down waxy coatings and allow water to penetrate. Organic matter, such as aged sheep manure, can also be added to retain water and nutrients. Ground rock dust, a less common soil amendment, contains trace elements that plants need in small amounts but can be harmful if not used. Mulch, such as pea straw, keeps the soil cool, protects microbes from harsh UV, suppresses weeds, and reduces evaporation.

For vegetable gardens, fine compost is recommended over sheep manure due to its quality. An organic, humus-based wetting agent is also recommended to maintain wetability and enhance soil microbial life. Rock minerals and mulch can also be added. Vegetables should be fed a mix of seaweed solution and fish emulsion to keep them thriving.

Sandy soil requires ongoing effort to build structure and maintain fertility. Garden beds should never be left empty, as rain and irrigation can leech them back to sand. Grouping plants based on their water and nutrition needs can make managing the garden easier. By following these simple tips, you can create a little oasis in a sandy desert.

How to keep moisture in sandy soil?

Michelle suggests using soil wetting products and organic matter to retain moisture in dry sandy soil. These products, available in granular, liquid concentrate, or hose-on form, improve water penetration by penetrating through the waxy layer, allowing water to be absorbed throughout the soil. Applying these products regularly, especially during the hot summer months, is recommended. For ferns or hanging baskets that dry quickly, soil wetting agents and water storage crystals are particularly useful. Applying these products in a granular, liquid concentrate, or hose-on form depends on the sand resistance to water.

What sprinklers are best for sandy soil?
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What sprinklers are best for sandy soil?

When choosing a sprinkler system, consider factors such as size, budget, soil type, and grass type. For large areas, consider sprinklers with longer throw distances (impact sprinklers, gear-drive rotors). If you’re looking for a cheaper option, above-ground sprinklers are more cost-effective than in-ground systems. If you plan to stay at your current property long-term, a cheaper hose-end sprinkler may be a better choice.

Water pressure is another factor to consider. Impact and gear-drive rotors require a minimum water pressure to throw water greater distances. If you have low water pressure, consider oscillating or stationary sprinklers. Sand or clay soils need different water requirements, with impact sprinklers being suitable for sandy soils.

Grass types also play a role in water requirements. Cool-season grasses need more water than warm-season ones, so durable in-ground or impact sprinklers are recommended. In hot climates or areas with frequent drought, in-ground sprinklers can help conserve water.

The shape of your yard can also affect the choice of sprinkler. Some sprinklers cover square or circular patterns, while triangular spray patterns work best for irregularly shaped yards. Water usage restrictions may apply, so consider investing in a hose timer for above-ground sprinklers.

If you’re on a tight budget or prefer to do things yourself, consider installing your sprinkler system yourself. Connect the sprinkler head to a garden hose connected to an outdoor spigot, using a kink-proof hose for convenience.

In summary, choosing the right sprinkler system depends on factors such as size, budget, soil type, turfgrass type, water usage restrictions, and ease of use.

What is the best irrigation method for sandy soils?
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What is the best irrigation method for sandy soils?

About 250 million irrigated hectares worldwide face moderate to high soil erosion due to lack of experience. Surface runoff and deep percolation decrease irrigation efficiency, making it crucial to select suitable methods. Over 95% of irrigated land is used by surface methods, which are not desirable for sandy soil due to high infiltration rates. Sprinkle and drip irrigation methods are more suitable for sandy soils due to their low rate and frequent application. Drip irrigation is more efficient and suitable for both sandy and clay soils, and has been successfully used with saline water.

Irrigation scheduling is essential for water conservation practices, as increasing water demand and protecting aquatic habitats necessitate effective and affordable practices. Precision irrigation optimizes irrigation by minimizing water waste and energy, while maximizing crop yields. Real-time monitoring of soil moisture and direct water application, combined with information about soil hydrological properties and evapotranspiration, is the most effective method for determining crop water demands.

Do sprinklers work in sand?

It is inadvisable to utilise sprinklers in the sandy sections of a beach farm, as they are designed to operate effectively only on dirtier terrain. Nevertheless, certain modifications to the beach farm allow for the use of sprinklers on the sand. One such modification is Allow Beach Sprinklers. Despite its designation as a “beach farm,” Ginger Island is equipped with sprinklers due to the presence of a sizable dirt patch where sprinklers are typically utilized.

How do you keep grass alive in sandy soil?

The application of fertilizer to lawns with sandy soil requires a more frequent and smaller scale approach than is typically necessary for other soil types. The utilization of slow-release nitrogen forms is recommended to minimize nitrogen movement, and the selection of a fertilizer with high potassium content is advised, as this essential element is often lacking in sandy soils.

How do you improve drainage in sandy soil?
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How do you improve drainage in sandy soil?

To improve soil drainage, dig organic matter into existing soil, especially for compacted, clay, and sandy soils. Mix in organic materials like peat moss, compost, shredded bark, or manure to improve drainage. Nutrient-rich, properly drained soil is crucial for healthy plants. For unplanted beds, spread 3-4 inches of organic matter across the surface and work it into the top 8-12 inches. For planted beds, add a couple of inches of compost each year.

Compact and clay soil can drain poorly, causing plant roots to sit too long in wet conditions. Avoid adding sand to clay soil to improve drainage. If heavy clay or compacted soil has poor drainage, amend the soil or choose plants that can tolerate wet areas. Clay soil can be improved by installing a drain tile. Sandy soil can drain water away from plant roots too quickly, so amend the soil or choose plants that can tolerate dry and drought-like conditions.

Installing raised beds or creating well-draining soil in pots is another solution. Mix high-quality topsoil with compost or other well-decomposed organic matter. Create well-draining soil in pots using bagged potting mix or make your own blend. Don’t use soil from your garden in containers, no matter how well-drained.

Drainage may vary in different parts of your yard due to factors such as construction removal, compaction with heavy equipment, drainage towards municipal systems and utilities, or land lay. Select plants that thrive in poorly drained, soggy soil, such as Elephant Ear, ferns, and willows, or drought-tolerant plants like ceanothus, lavender, and yucca.

How do you increase water retention in sandy soil?

Sandy soil types drain off excess moisture quickly, so they may require more frequent watering. Mulch on the surface can help reduce water loss through evaporation. Peat moss or coconut coir can help hold more water. When the soil is dry, dampen it briefly and then water it slowly with a soaker hose or drip irrigation method. Watering frequency should suit the plants’ needs. Root vegetables like carrots, beets, radishes, parsnips, and potatoes prefer sandy soils, as they prefer the light and loose texture of sandy soil. There is no single method that works for all plants, so there’s no universally preferred watering frequency.

What is the fastest way to improve sandy soil?
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What is the fastest way to improve sandy soil?

Compost is a cost-effective solution for improving sandy soils by providing nutrients, increasing water and nutrient retention, and creating a suitable habitat for microorganisms. It can be made at home from yard and kitchen waste and can be spread over landscape beds and gardens, tilling it deeply before planting. Mulches can also contribute to the soil’s organic matter as they break down. In vegetable gardens, compost should be added at least once a year to maintain productivity.

In lawns, allowing grass clippings to fall onto the lawn can gradually build up the organic matter in the soil. Cover crops, grown for their ability to turn into soil, are another inexpensive source of organic matter. Common winter cover crops include crimson clover, hairy vetch, and mustard, while summer cover crops include buckwheat, cowpeas, and pearl millet.

How to improve the water holding capacity of sandy soil?
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How to improve the water holding capacity of sandy soil?

Soil organic matter can improve water absorption, reducing water stress during dry and wet periods. This can be achieved by incorporating compost, manures, high biomass cover crops, perennial crops, sod crops, and reducing tillage. Mulches, such as hay, straw, cut forage, wood chips, or plastic, can retain soil moisture under dry conditions and offer weed control and organic matter benefits. However, they can also compete for limited water and nutrients, be expensive and time-consuming to purchase, apply, and dispose of, and may tie up soil nitrogen supplies.

Mulches with a high carbon-to-nitrogen ratio may also introduce weed seeds and disease if not carefully sourced. Additionally, mulches may slow germination or plant growth, and soils prone to flooding or pooling may experience standing water more readily when mulched.

Does sandy soil need to be watered more?
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Does sandy soil need to be watered more?

The average lawn needs 1½ to 2 inches of water per week, depending on the grass type, to promote a strong rooting system. Watering wets the soil to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, creating enough reserve moisture for the next watering. Sandy soils require more watering than clay soils, but less water is needed for sandy soil. To water the lawn, water each section twice a week for 35 to 40 minutes, ensuring even distribution. Avoid watering daily, as this can spread lawn disease.

Water deeply and infrequently, a couple of times a week. In southern climates, watering as often as needed is necessary to maintain the desired green color and saturate the soil, strengthening the rooting system and reducing run-off risk.


📹 How To Level & OverSeed A Lawn : TimeLapse

Levellawn #oddlysatisfying I use a mix of fine rye grass seed and 70% sand with 30% soil to overseed and level my lawn.


Ways To Irrigate Grass On Sandy Soil
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37 comments

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  • I have been building soil for my garden for a year now. Started with layers of pine needles, went to mulch when that decomposed, added a layer of alfalfa hay, layer of compost, then a layer of hay. Hay from tractor supply, mulch and compost from local vendor. I have gone from no worms in the yard to a healthy soil.

  • I live in the Florida panhandle with sand for soil. For the past 10 years, I have not used anything you are advocating but I use LEAVES from all these Florida oak trees in which they shed leaves in the spring when I do my planting. I get my leaves on the side of the streets and roads in plastic bags that go to the dump and they are free. I spread them in the garden for weed control and during the year they are breaking down into the soil. It has been a slow process but I am beginning to see progress. One thing Florida has is LEAVES.

  • For chop and drop you need to find a particular species that grows well in the poor soil. So you are in florida you may be having certain bushes that can grow easily before the set seeds you just chop the flowering parts to allow more growth and force plant to produce more branches. In my case we are in Dubai, UAE and we have salty sand, so we need a lot of water to let plants grow, we grow a lot of leucaena and small native bushes. Napier grass/Bana grass is one of the plants that can grow easily easily in sandy soil. Secondly to add minerals what I recommend is to add sea water mixed with normal water to add minerals into the plant ecosystem. The ratio that I have experienced is 1:100 so every 1 liter you take add 10 ml. to offset the salt form sea water, so to get rid of sodium from the soil, you plant purslane plant (Portulaca oleracea) to mine the chlorides and sodium to remove the salt, but ensure you do not compost the cuttings of purslane, better option is to feed to chickens or rabbits that you may eat as meat.

  • Some take money, some take time…. options we also exchange every time we visit the produce aisle. The huge takeaway for me is knowing what we’re eating while learning how to grow some of our food. The reward is the superior quality of our garden food versus the bland (yet often times) pretty store bought fruits and vegetables. Thank you, as always, for sharing as you do.

  • Thanks for your ideas and those from your subscribers. I live in Lincolnshire England really sandy infertile soil. This area is known as carrot country. There are some beautiful gardens I’ve no doubt their owners add some sort of mulch to enable a garden to grow. As for my garden we lost the lawn in the 2020 drought now weeds and moss. I’ve scarified an area ready for a new wildflower area. The next area I dug the sand over then and I’m now throwing and digging cardboard, newspaper next doors horse manure old clothing and clippings in. In order to get some nutritional support I’ve built a bonfire area the ash goes on. I’ve no intention to reseed until the ground turns a darker shade and holds water. The wind just blows any moisture off. I also dig the weeds in from the garden at the front of the house. I do leave weeds in situ until may before removing. Gardening on sandy soil is a constant battle but to see something grow is amazing. I also do the no dig bit laying cardboard down and building a substrate on top. Wishing all fellow sandy soil owners the very best and thanks again for your advice.

  • I’ve had some good success amending with bokashi compost for annual vegetables. It’s a cheap, pest-free, relatively easy way to compost food waste (including meat and dairy). It’s also filled with beneficial bacteria and fungi. I still used some storebought manure/compost but I’m trying to get away from that for both cost and sustainability. Mulch is amazing but it takes a while to see the benefit.

  • Howdy from Hudson, FL (Pasco County). I just finished with my first harvest, and it was not great. I bought my home Nov 2022 and refer to it as “my empire of sand.” I am amending as we speak, as my fruit and veggies were small. I am using granular fertilizer and cheap bags of cow poo and organic matter from Home Depot. I had enough lima beans and Roma tomatoes to feed a family of 7, but my Big-boy tomatoes and Bell Peppers are and were small at first harvest. At the end of this harvest in DEC I will till everything with a fertilizer mix, coo poo compost and let sit till Feb and re-till for planting. As you said, we basically have beach sand. lol

  • I’m from Clearwater but right now I’m up in Crystal River. I have a small pond with duckweed on it. I have been trying to clean it out and have pulled a lot of leaf litter and other bits of organic materials. I’m thinking this water is packed with nutrients. Also I have been looking at all the Spanish moss we have. I’m sure there’s tons of nitrogen in all this but I’ve a bit of old woods next to me. So I started to mix all this easy to get material to build compost. Shredding moss for a mulch is a pain but I’m thinking this would work to improve a garden bed. I like using nothing to make something. Have you made a article on this crazy idea?

  • 🙋 North Florida area here. How do you deal with pest problems in these in-ground gardens??? Because up here, even in grow bags and raised beds June bug larvae are a huge issue, even with preventatives and pesticides! 😭 Everyone I’ve talked to has the same issue. I’m concerned that the issue would get worse in-ground. Thoughts?

  • 13:20 – talking about inoculating biochar (with pee etc) – you can also use a liquid nutrient supplement and water. Nice, because it requires no previous prep like compost tea or urine saving. I must admit I am saving urine to incoulate some biochar I am making at the moment haha. But I plan on adding either SEA50 or probably dyna-gro foliage pro 9-3-6 (did a soil test & this should be right for me) to soak the biochar. It doesn’t have to be compost tea or urine if you are not concerned about using it on food products or you are just cool with it, supposedly. source – mostly david the good & validation from other sources.

  • Hmm, interesting. We just moved from Miami to Ocala and have more land. We have dedicated some to a few goats and we have been collecting their poop for fertilizer. I have a burn pit with lots of ash as I had to burn a lot of scrap wood and when I have to pee, I don’t like going inside to the disgust of my wife…she is just jealous! So, i just planted some blueberries and an ice cream banana plant. I amended the sand, I mean soil, with peat moss and compost for the berries (blue berries, I know bananas are berries too). They like acidic soil and sandy soil here seems to be on the acidic side but dropping that pH another whole point would be great. No peat moss for the banana plant…I really didn’t research that piece but I have ash and pee ready to go and goat poop is always available. I am not a smart person but can learn from people like you and so I thank you.

  • hey great article with lots of information. I’m gardening in south FL sandy soil as well. my city gives out free wood chip mulch and the town to the south has a large equestrian population and I was lucky to find 2 different parties that give away free horse poop compost. prior to amending soil I did a lot of container gardening and also got into native plants. some, like the dune sunflower, are really remarkable how well they thrive in hot and dry sandy soils

  • Locally we have bulk soils like mushroom compost and a mix called gardener’s special. Mushroom compost is too hot for some plants, if you don’t know how mix soil that can be a problem. Gardener’s special is everything in it and more expensive. People who are allergic to camphor trees, Brazilian peppers, need to let a tree trimmer know before they start bringing mulch.

  • after a week of back breaking work (removing all grass, digging, removing stones, levelling, fertilising and adding top soil), I got some lovely turf that’s coming on nicely. That ground leveller looks quite handy, but I think they are expensive. I used your DYI method with wood planks and bricks on top to level :))

  • A couple of questions: 1. Why have you not put a few mill of top soil over the top of the seeds as you’ve talked about doing in your other articles? By just giving it a rub over with the lawn lute after seeding you’ve essentially just knocked the new seeds off the existing grass so they have contact with the new sand/soil but they’re uncovered? 2. Why not use the landzie spreader you reviewed? I used the method you’ve shown with a sandy top dressing and a lawn lute last year, and to be honest the results were not great at at, produced patchy coverage and a bumpy lawn a couple of months after, after it had settled. I’ve bought the landzie for this attempt this year hoping for a much more even coverage

  • I can understand using sand on golf coarse because the course is on the beach hence soil make up is mainly sand i guess. but what I don’t understand the advantage of using sand and why use sand for peoples gardens which is mainly soil, would soil top dressing have any advantage, confused as to why people go for one solution over the other, help, I am baffled to what situations and why people use 2 different variables and why they pick, them sand over normal top soil .what are your thoughts . many thanks in advance Great articles .

  • Ever considered a livestream from your garden? A sunny spring day for an hour to address pre submitted questions. This vid is only up an hour and the amount of questions is crazy. We are all big fans. Might be worth trying out? Lawn care websites are booming right now. Covid gardeners like myself are still novices. I’ve a rubbish lawn that I’m really struggling with. Birds have taken most of my seed. Can’t find a good decoy anywhere to keep them away

  • Great tips and ideas how would you combat a low spot that slopes down to as much as an inch towards the back of a garden? Also unrelated to this article but my new grass is 10 months old and a little patchy with light spots I fertilised the grass with a 10-2-1.7 feed and weed/moss killer with 8% soluble iron sorry to burden you on this article. Your articlesare absolutely brilliant and informative!

  • Hi Matt, another great article. So is this the correct order…scarify, grass cut, part seed, top dress, more seed and lastly fertiliser? On your advise I purchased your All American seed and the evergreen seed sower – what dial number should it be on please? Thanks for all your help, keep up the good articles 👍

  • Hi Matt, another great article. I’m interested in your 70/30 mix of sand and topsoil for levelling our lawn after buying your seed and fertiliser. Would you kindly tell me how this mix is made up and with what type of sand etc? Or is this ready mixed? Your link appears to show just topsoil and not the sand/soil 70/30 mix. Many thanks, Richard

  • Hello again I got the same seed, different bag to yours, I have started digging out unsightly crab grass about 75mm deep and filling with good soil then turf, so looking patchy, gonna rake the rest, seed and then level, my question is your one and a half tonne did it come pre mixed, and where do you get it from, keep up the good work, Regards Gaz

  • Two questions. 1. I thought grass seed would not grow on sand, even 70/30 sand/soil, have you found that it does? 2. A fair percentage of my grass looks as if it has died, no pattern to it, just random. In these areas healthy green blades of grass and dead? white blades are side by side. Any ideas? (Can send pics) Thanks, Jim

  • Nice attempt, but…if you want a golf course level lawn do what golf courses do. Use a 1mm or 2mm screened course sand and use quite a bit more than this guy. I’ve leveled many dozens of lawns, some using up to 20 tons of sand. Using a leveling product with anything but sand is counter productive. The organic matter will break down and you’ll have an uneven lawn again. After you level it, use a shop broom to work the sand down. Put down a good fertilizer to force the grass to grow threw the sand. Unfortunately you really need to pick leveling or over seeding.

  • Good article as always. Sorry I’m 4 days late, for some reason I never got the notification. I had to do a similar job a few weeks back, and fortunately it’s looking good now, even got a couple of cylinder mower in! So I’m sure yours will be up to scratch before too long. It would seem last Autumn and winter were just particularly hard times in the lawn world 😅

  • Hi there. I don’t need that much top dressing as my lawn is only 10m2. Can you buy it in smaller 25kg bags or make your own mix? If so what is the type of sand and would it be with good quality top soil? Great vids, already purchased the same seed from your shop, just need the top dressing/soil mix now and wait for that last frost to come and go!!! Cheers

  • Just wanted to say the lawn looks great welldone.the tips are really useful and as you are in the uk also it helps me to relate and think I can do it.ive started in April not seeing your vid at that stage and have skipped a few things I am getting grass but its patchy and a cat or fox keeps digging and scratching it super frustrating

  • Hi Garden Lawncare Guy. I’ve scarified and aerified my lawn and bought your pre seed fertiliser and dark green grass seed, so I think I’m ready to go! Quick question on working the topsoil in – I only have a wooden bristle brush or a rake. Will either of these suffice instead of your contraption? Thanks

  • One thing I get confused about with overseeding…. just a general overseed raked into the existing grass… is when you should resume mowing again? The existing lawn will be growing fast, but you may need to wait 14 days for new seed to have germinated and to be resilient enough to mow…. Is it OK to continue mowing the existing lawn throughout, and hope that the new seedlings that should be appearing within the lawn won’t get damaged? If you waited a full 14 days ( or more if the seed takes a long time to germinate) then the lawn would be far too long.

  • Awesome! I’d like to get something close to this done this year but may run out of time. I have a couple of questions. How do you ensure the sand won’t blunt your mower blades in the future and, do you have any tips for killing sprouting bulbs like bluebells and crocus that are coming up under a new lawn?

  • Hello, i have a lawn which is uneven and and has some deep craters. We moved in this new build in December and the builder laid turf. can i use the same technique to fill those holes and dead patches? Secondly, would a roller help even out the existing lawn. I dont have the money to dig out everything and start afresh

  • Hi, I really like your articles, very informative. Last year I laid a new lawn. Removed all the previous “grass”, rotovated the soil, spread 2-4 inches of top soil (50/50 mix I think), laid new turf. This year there are a million bare patches which I think have come about because of the huge amounts of worm casts over the winter which I failed to deal with at the time. Also there were a lot of low spots because I guess the topsoil had settled over the winter. In March I bought 50/50 top dressing to fill the voids but I find that it has just made the ground so sandy, and I only placed around 1 inch of top dressing in the worst parts. It hasn’t binded with the soil at all and just sits there all sandy. At the bottom of the garden I filled quite a large low spot with around 2 inches of soil and it is now so soft under foot, it feels like quick sand. Is this normal?

  • Good morning thank you for your really useful articles can I ask them advice I unfortunately bought some cheap topsoil which had stones on it I’ve laid it down and after watering in the topsoil I can see the stones are top of the grass is there a quick way to remove these or is it a question of just going round by hand?

  • Matt; not sure if you remember me from another of your articles a few weeks ago. I over-seeded two and a half weeks ago and have seen absolutely no germination due to the cold snap we had. Have kept watering but sparingly when I didn’t think it needed it (looked moist). My question to you; at what point do I give up on that seed and re-do it? Absolutely gutted at the moment! Cheers!

  • We have a new build which I turfed myself last summer. Over the winter the rain and dog killed most of the grass, leaving large patches of mud. Over a month ago I seeded and some of it has come through, but there’s a lot of seed sitting on the top and I don’t think this will germinate. One of the problems in the winter was the drainage – should I aerate the lawn with a fork and reseed again with a top soil where the patches are or do you have any other tips?

  • I have put down the all American and top dressed with top soil using Landzie. Nothing happened yet its now about 10 days. Lawn needs levelling. I have lute similar to the one you used but never used it. What should I do? I’m getting a bit worried no germination yet. The birds seem to be having a great time out there.

  • I completed the renovation of my lawn (60sq m) last May ie, remove turf, rotovate, top soil (100mm) and laid new turf. After cutting the grass I find it is quite lumpy underfoot. Would I get away with heavy watering it, then either using a roller or ‘slammer’ to flatten it? It is not hollows, but high spots.

  • If the lawn was that threadbare at start of article, implies the base wasn’t prepared properly or otherwise not suitable for lawn. Looks like a fast build new build estate so probably turfs laid on poor base. Levelling only patching up fundamentally unsound plot. If you must have a lawn to be proud of, instead of more interesting planting, dig up, establish drainage, improve soil to 12 to 28 inches, then flatten, treat with topsoil, lay turf or seed