Building a backyard greenhouse is a simple and affordable way to extend the growing season and jump-start plants for spring gardening. To build a greenhouse, follow these steps:
- Choose the perfect location for your greenhouse.
- Build the foundation of your greenhouse.
- Assemble the greenhouse structure.
- Select the right covering material.
- Maintain ideal temperature and ventilation.
- Customize your greenhouse design.
When the weather turns cold, maintain a warm greenhouse by installing an electric heater with a thermostatically controlled fan. The easiest way to build a greenhouse is to buy a greenhouse kit, which should contain most of what you need to build a greenhouse.
There are many ways to make an affordable, simple DIY greenhouse, whether you construct it from a kit or build it from scratch using one of these free plans. These greenhouses come in various sizes depending on each gardener’s needs and wants.
When building your greenhouse, ensure there are various ways to regulate its temperature. Popular Mechanics advises choosing a spot that will receive direct sunlight for a large portion of the day. For plant growth, consider materials such as polycarbonate, acrylic, fiberglass, or polyethylene.
In summary, building a backyard greenhouse is a great way to extend the growing season and start plants indoors. By following these steps, you can create a plant-filled oasis in your backyard and enjoy the benefits of gardening.
📹 Can you build a greenhouse in your backyard?
Can you build a greenhouse in your backyard? You can grow plants and vegetables year-round by making your own greenhouse.
📹 Why is it Not Patented? Wrap an LED Bulb with Electrical Tape and you’ll be Amazed
Why is it Not Patented? Wrap an LED Bulb with Electrical Tape and you’ll be Amazed In this video, I will show you a simple and …
Be aware that since the leds are in series, replacing one with a short (the foil) means the rest are individually handling about 11% more voltage than originally. You can get away with this much, but they’ll run brighter and hotter than the were designed to, which will burn them out sooner. If you repeat the repair when another led goes, the remaining ones will be getting 25% overvoltage, and 42% if you do it a third time – which I suspect would burn them all out the moment you turn the bulb back on. But who knows, they might fool you and last long enough to melt the bulb housing and start a fire. If you decide to try that experiment do it someplace like the driveway, and definitely make a article to compete with the deep-fried turkey meltdowns.
I have been an electronics engineer for 47 years and I would highly recommend you DO NOT attempt this repair as it’s highly dangerous and could give you a deadly electric shock or cause a fire in your building. It’s a complete bodge job. Never mess around like this with a 240 Volts ac (or 110Vac) appliance. This article should really be removed. Just buy a new light bulb.
First… if one eliminates one LED from a chain of 10 LEDs, that means the overall voltage across each of the remaining LEDs is going to increase. This means that more current will flow through each of the other LEDs which means they will burn hotter and be more dangerous. Second. Aluminum foil that isn’t soldered onto the two pads will potentially have a gap between the pad and the aluminum foil which would encourage arcing. If electricity arcs, it gets super-hot as well and might create ozone to boot. Just putting super-glue on the tape does nothing to increase the bond between the aluminum foil and the metal pad. Third, dissimilar metals in contact with each other. Aluminum does not do well when electricity passes through it and it is in contact with a dissimilar metal. It’s called, “Galvanic Corrosion”. This will increase the possibility over time that it will start sparking as the resistance builds-up in the contact area. Come on, guy. People are stupid enough and do enough stupid things that endanger their lives by their stupidity. To encourage stupidity just so you can get a couple cents when people connect, hoping they’ll actually get good tips? The correct thing to do in this case? Throw away the light and buy a good quality light, not one that has that stupid plastic globe over it. Glass bonded to the light by a reputable manufacturer such as GE Soft White LED 60W (actually 8 Watt) “Classic Shape” LED Bulb 760 lumens bulb. Has a glass globe that can’t be just snapped off with a mat knife.
Reminds me of the old style fuse box we had at home years ago. When the power goes out and you don’t have a spare fuse, we would use a tin foil from a pack of cigarettes to wrap the fuse until we can get a new one in the morning. Many houses burned down using this method because it defeats the purpose of having a fuse in the first place from circuit overload. Things break down for a reason. Just my thought.
The same shop that sold you the tweezers and the tape would have also sold you small isolated pliers, which were much safer to use. Also you don’t replace the bad LED tin foil but with a resistor of the same resistance (such a resistor costs a few cent). Finally putting super glue on top of things is totally pointless; super glue only works well as a thin layer between two hard materials; the correct glue would have been epoxy but even nail polish would have done a better job.
As several others pointed out, there’s a half dozen ways this can go really bad. Hope the smoke detectors have good batteries in them. On another note, the capacitor on that board looked like it is close to done as well. The top was showing a little bulge and the shrink wrap label was pulling down from the top.
A lot of people in the comments complaining about the potential fire risk. Actually, any risk can easily be avoided with this simple trick: You’ll need a calculator, some insulating tape, a large metal tin, some rubber hose, a small wire brush and a little lemon juice. Put all of those items in a thick, heavy bag with a strong handle and hand them to a good friend. Now ask your friend to beat you around the head repeatedly with the bag until you go out and buy a new bulb, you penny-pinching moron. See? Simple!
As someone who has a mix of old aluminum and copper wiring in my house, aside from the dangers everyone else has pointed out, having copper and aluminum directly connected like that and running house current through it can cause sparking, which will only accelerate your path to a house fire with this “fix”.
I put this handy tip right up there with showing viewers how to clean and “refresh” used dental floss. You know how expensive dental floss is? That stuff cost 97 cents for a 55 yard roll. Theoretically you could make a single roll of floss last four years instead of the usual 1.5 years. That amounts to a savings of almost 1.50 over that same 4 year period.
To people claiming this is dangerous: please elaborate how as I do this myself (using soldering) and I never thought this could be unsafe. The voltage across these diodes is scaled down (voltage across each diode is less than 5 volts) and any short in the circuitry exposed on top where the diodes are located can only burn out more diodes and in the worse case burn out the transformer in the base. The heat generated by these light bulbs is minimal so the extra heat generated by the remaining LEDs as they run brighter because of the missing LED does not seem like a fire hazard. You can argue the effort is wasted since a replacement costs only a few bucks and the remaining LEDs will burn out faster because of the extra current but my question is about the safety risks involved.
Everything said about the dangers are absolutely correct! If you are a nerd like me, 1) you take a dead bulb (same type), de-solter a good LED (check resistance) and replace the bad one in the bulb you want to recycle. 2) measure the resistance with an ohm-meter across a good LED, get a resistor with the same rating and replace the dead LED. a) have the power off while pretending to be an electrical engineer b) know how to solter c) be retired like me or be bored out of your wits d) be desperate or smart about taking the savings and adding it to your 401k (cost of bulb ~$4.60, cost of resistor practically 0) e) satisfaction = priceless
This is simply dangerous as there are mains voltages on this circuit board, and you should never short out the mains supply on the bridge rectifier or main capacitor. In The UK and Europe this can be 220 – 250VAC across the input to the bridge rectifier and its output and capacitor can have 310 to 350VDC across them, and either can be lethal to the unsuspecting DIYer. Of course the voltages are much lower across the LED’s, but nonetheless, this is a very dangerous game. Ask yourself, is your life worth the cost of just replacing the bulb? Also remember by shorting out 1 LED simply adds more load onto the remaining LEDs and they will burn out at a much faster rate than before, and potentially even cause a fire.This is just another entry in the 1000+ ways to die!
This reminds me of when l worked in an engineering company. And we got a new lad. I once gave one, an old empty small tin of oranges, filled it with a blue liquid, taped bits of string all around it, with penguin biscuit wrappers taped to the string. Told him it it was ” a radioid pengitron!”. And that the manager needed it immediately at our other plant, 5 minutes down the road. And off he went. Well. Now l feel like that kid.
Presenting…the amazing super easy to pop-off LED bulb diffuser! (One might guess that I have NEVER had a diffuser pop-off so easily as shown here. It usually involves using progressively thicker flat-blade screwdrivers and/or a rotary drill using a cutting disc.) Note: I can easily imagine a piece of high-speed shrapnel breaking off from the razor blade while doing that. They are not designed to handle lateral forces like that.
My dad about burned the house by sticking some aluminum foil in a chandelier to make a better bulb connection. Smoke started coming out of every outlet and light switch in the room! I used to work for Dale electronics where we made electrical resistors. They regulate electricity flow through things. When you start messing with aluminum that’s not regulated by a resistor, you’re asking for trouble.
Okay let’s break this down in a common sense manner since you didn’t solder anything you’re going to have electricity working very hard to jump from the contacts to that aluminum foil just because you taped it down and glued it doesn’t mean shit it’s a bad connection which causes high amperage therefore it will heat up and it will be a fire hazard but this guy’s got millions of views on this article are you serious this is what kills me deceitfulness seems to get the most credit here on YouTube better yet it’s probably more like poor judgment but a lot of these guys make shit up absolutely phony
I could see this as a solution if your bulb goes out, you’re out in the middle of nowhere, with no access to a store, and you forgot to keep a supply of spare bulbs, but otherwise, you could have replaced like 20 bulbs in the time it would take to do all that, and bulbs are only a few dollars a piece nowadays. So, unless you do only have the one bulb and no way to get another, the juice just isn’t worth the squeeze IMHO. Just replace the bulb!
A good camping or OUTDOOR idea for a TEMPORARY repair. NEVER LEAVE UNATTENDED! Foil makes the entire closed circuit run 8-16% hotter, and can result in a flash surge of fire. Do not allow young children to do this. Don’t do it in a house or near flammable objects. Replace the bulb ASAP. They’re a lot safer and cheaper than a fire!
Don’t do this, either use proper insulated tools and/or an isolation transformer to find the dead LED, then bridge it using a soldering iron. If you have issues soldering on this often aluminuim substrate board, get someone else to do it, or toss the lamp. The foil in this article can easily have a poor contact and start arcing.
This is an excellent way to start a fire. It’s apparent that the circuit is a series circuit given that when one LED goes out the circuit can’t be completed. This is why Christmas lights as a whole don’t go out. They’re connected in a series-parallel circuit. It would be better for a person to try and see if they could find a similar LED and solder it to the circuit board. Using aluminum foil as a jumper is just a great way to cause a fire.
As said by other people, a serious fire risk. By shorting out one LED the others in the string all work harder than designed, running hotter and thus failing shortly afterwards plus the foil is not properly connected so its likely to heat up and cause a fire which could burn a house down. I suspect that they publish these sort of stupid things as a wind-up, to get people to react, like I do.
For myself I would unsolder and save the good ones. Then for the future bad bulb I would replace the “bad” LED with my “saved good” one. And yes for me I would determine (not hard) the “pretty good” estimation of the actual wattage for ONE of these LEDS AND same these in properly marked bags of burned in used LED to use to fix “bad” bulbs.
AS an Electrical Engineer for some 20 plus year, I would not recommend doing this. Reason 1) being in series you now have increased the current level through the board traces which were not designed to carry that current 2) It also increased the current flow through the LEDs which again may have driven them out of the safe specification. 3) By increasing the current through the LEDs you now have increased the thermal dissipation of each device again possibly taking it out of the safe thermal specification of the LED devices as well as the board and in-closer. Besides by doing this you now have increased the current load on the LED driver the will degrade it. In other words it will probably blow out in a very short time. 🙂 Like Always, Just my thoughts God Bless.
As an electrician, I was wanting to see how insulating the socket end of a lightbulb was going to make it more conductive. Sadly this wasn’t the case. Instead it turns out that he uses electrical (not even high quality branded stuff that’s UL rated, but the cut rate no-name color coding junk) tape to insulate metal tweezers to create a tool that (rather clever-ish, admittedly, but I’d never use this at line level voltage. 110vac is gonna shock the piss outta the user) quickly finds the bad LED. With the series wired LEDs this will make it he remaining lights burn brighter with around 10% higher current running thru them, so it may burn brighter overall than before, but last not as long. Considering, it has already failed its life’s expectancy, this does make it last longer, It’s rather amusing that not only does he circle the bad part of the circuit, but even puts an X on it to be double sure to make sure it’s not going to be questioned. lol. OH NO! He didn’t! Oh shit, he really does? Aluminum foil? And he even uses the bargain bin super flimsy stuff! I buy two type of aluminum foil for my kitchen. The regular duty stuff for maybe wrapping a potato in, or to cover a casserole for the oven. But the HD foil gets used for cooking since it is simply more sturdy and doesn’t tear as soon as you touch it. Plus, it’s better for electrical repairs like this nonsense. Not. Using foil to complete the circuit is possibly an arsonists secret when setting up an insurance fire. I’m only speculating, guessing that lightweight foil would be burned away and serve as a fuse that vanishes.
As a former electronics service technician, I can tell you that the capacitor in the center if this bulb has gone bad. This is probably the reason why one of the LEDs burned out in the first place. The rest will also burn out soon. It’s also ridiculous to wrap the metal tongs in electrical tape. Those LED segments don’t operate on 110V. 😂
I was just fooling around with those types of bulbs, thinking how I’m gonna get rid of the two broke ones Now I know..THNKS! Whoever comes up with these ideas, some are pure genius, other ..not so much, useless and who has the time for some of the crazy stuff ppl decide to rebu ild lol This one here is usedful. Not only for the pocketboot. Those bulbs are NOT CHEAP, but also a win win for the environment, as least for awhile longer!
LED’s have a voltage drop, by jumping that one out you just increased the current to all the other leds. Each remaining LED will run hotter and eventually fail assuming the entire bulb don’t go up in smoke first. Just always buy the same brand and wattage LED lights then you have spare LEDs when one goes out. Takes 2 minutes to solder one in and easy to check which one is bad with a multimeter, no powering the bulb up is needed to diagnose. You could just stick your tongue on the terminals and see if it tingles, maybe I am thinking of 9V batteries, getting old so who knows…
I came here to read the comments. I’m sure if you want to jam crap into a light socked, this is the article for you. Make sure you switch off the breaker before cleaning out the remnants of the bulb & tape from the socket. Also bring a flashlight incase the fixture is in some area that receives no light, or you plan to do this after sunset. Similarly, Mr. Fork & Mr. Electrical Outlet are not friends. Just in case.
1. The answer to why it is not patented is because what is there to patent? foil and tape? 2. There was no wrap on the LED bulb. 3. On the bright side, this may come in handy when you absolutely can’t go out to buy a new bulb like if you are kidnapped and thrown into a dungeon and the light burns out, or a zombie apocalypse or worse, the wife is pissed off at you for forgetting to buy one for the 10th time!
It takes very low amperage to run an LED.. The reason the light stops working is because the LED’s are wired in series like the old Christmas lights. One blown bulb, and the whole strand goes out.. Basically, each individual bulb acts like a fused link. The ppl making the bulbs could wire them in parallel, but then ppl wouldn’t need to buy bulbs as often.
This is so smart. You increase the voltage and heat to all of the other LEDs. Then, tin foil instead of solder, or a resistor, pure genius. Sparks and flames if it gets too hot, letting you know to turn it off (if you’re home), and it’s almost guaranteed to void your fire insurance policy after the arson investigator writes his report, giving him excellent job security. Way to support the local job market!. Think of the money you will save. At least $1 or 2 for a new bulb. Next, can you please go over the fuse panel hack? Tin foil or a penny? Tin foil has so many uses! You must be a Boeing engineer…
So, what the article shows is that because just ONE of the LED lights burnt out, and because they are “wired” IN SERIES, all the LED lights stopped working. By removing the bad LED and shorting out the connector with aluminum foil, the rest could be made to work again, restoring the light to functionality, albeit, at a slightly dimmer level of light. Good to know if the bulb cannot be replaced immediately.
For the whole point of this article is to repair an LED bulb that has internal LEDs connected in series and finding out which one is defective. So you’re bypassing defective one with aluminum foil, but you will be losing some light. I would just change the LED since I work in electronics manufacturing.
Soldering irons are not expensive. Even the cheapest soldering iron and the cheapest solder would have done the job properly and cost less in materials. Though I would probably have put a low value resistor in there instead of just bridging the points. That way you’d avoid burnouts in the future and have that bulb basically forever. The reason bulbs die like this, is that they’re run to hot. It’s partly to save money on LED’s and partly as planned obsolescence. When an LED burns out in this way, adding a resistor to the circuit (with more resistance than the original LED) will make the rest of the resistors run cooler. LED’s last for a VERY long time if they aren’t run hot. There will be somewhat less light emitted, but you may never have to change the bulb again.
If you want to do stupid things on your own time, don’t encourage others to do them too. There are so many things wrong here – if you are thinking of doing this, please don’t get hurt. Electrical items have a standards mark on them for a reason, and your insurance company will be delighted to tell you that, for the cost of light bulb, your fire claim is invalid. Just don’t. The insulating tape is not sufficient from a safety point of view. Tools going to mains electricity should be VDE and Cat rated if you are touching them. A small sharp spike on the tweezers will make itself know very quickly when it pokes through the tape and touches your hand. Cannibalising an exact match LED from a second failed LED light with a proper solder connection is the only way to repair the circuit and have it working to specification. Finally, the pearlescent plastic cover should be fitted at least as as securely as before poking about. MAYBE, that would be okay. It certainly would make for a completely different article to the irresponsible method depicted here.
If you’re gonna fix it why not fix it right? Grab another LED from a donor bulb and solder it in to the circuit board. Honestly we throw away so many electrical fixtures because of bad LEDs it’s ridiculous. And unlike this $1 bulb some fixtures like exit signs with emergency lighting can cost nearly $100. Or a light bar in my buddy’s fridge that costs $142 to order. article is clearly ridiculous but the concept of fixing an led circuit can make some sense in other situations
1) As an electrician I have to say that you should just buy a new bulb. This is dumb and potentially dangerous. 2) The article title has virtually nothing to do with the article content. Of course if you did wrap the base with electrical tape it would keep the bulb from turning on and thus save you from the fire hazard you created. (For those wondering, this article has 39K likes, 93K dislikes).
in all honesty each led light has around 15-18v going through it i believe its dc even if it was ac at that voltage it couldn’t pierce your skin only points on the board i’d be cautious of would be the transformer and the capacitor overall interesting technique. would also suggest soldering a salvaged led on the board or making a soldering joint to complete the connection the tape method he uses is worrisome.
DON’T DO THIS. Let me explain in a practical way, if you don’t know much about led circuits. Suppose you’re working a job with 10 people (led) altogether. You all have, equally, the same amount of workload (electrical current) to do. Someone quits. The boss (driver) doesn’t care if you’re “short” a person now. You still have to do the work of 10 people, and now there are 9 of you. Each person works harder (brighter / hotter) until another one burns out and quits because it’s more work than they can handle. Now you have 8 people doing the job of 10. The boss keeps driving you to get it done by a certain date. Harder and harder they work, so they burn out faster, every time someone quits, with each person carrying more workload. Now there’s too much work, and one person burns out so much that he goes insane and burns the place down. Crude, and I don’t know nearly as much about electricity as an electrician, but I used to work hospital and industrial maintenance. I tried, anyway.