- Sweep the surface thoroughly to remove any dust, debris, or plant material.
- Wash the bricks using a gentle detergent and sponge, covering the entire surface.
- Repair and protect the bricks by applying a sealer that can be applied to bricks, concrete, wood, and other surfaces.
- Apply the sealer to the surface, filling any cracks or gaps with mortar before applying it.
- Use a water repellent masonry cream to apply one coat of the treatment to the untreated brick wall using a brush or roller.
- Waterproof old brick by coating the exterior of the masonry with a silane or siloxane penetrating sealer, applying several thin coats rather than one thick coat.
- Allow the sealer to dry and become part of the brick.
- Look for a paint product that is compatible with the sealer.
- Apply premium quality brick waterproofing solutions and sealant products, such as those from Asian Paint’s SmartCare range.
Brick sealer is a clear or tinted waterproofing sealer that penetrates pores, improving the value and beauty of masonry construction. It effectively protects the brick from water infiltration, reducing the risk of spalling and crumbling. If the external side of the wall is exposed brick or unpainted render, apply one coat of façade cream such as PermaSEAL Facade Cream, Remmers’ Funcosil FC, or Microshield Ultra.
📹 How to Stop Damp Penetrating Brickwork
Waterproof your brick walls with Stormdry, a colourless, breathable, water-repellent treatment for brick, concrete and stone walls.
How do you stop water from coming through brick walls?
Breathable sealant can help repel water and release moisture from brick walls, making it ideal for homes with occasional water seepage. Preventative measures include regular maintenance checks, consulting professionals like All Weather Coating for periodic inspections, and choosing a reputable service provider. They have extensive experience in exterior wall coatings and weatherproofing services, and their team of experts can provide a comprehensive assessment and tailor a solution that best fits your home’s needs. Choosing a professional service can save homeowners from costly repairs and ensure their property remains water-resistant.
Is sealing brick a good idea?
Brick sealers are ideal for preventing moisture ingress from bricks, but they are not the best solution. Sealers create a film on the surface, which acts as a waterproofing layer, but they can be weathered and pulled off in a short period, causing the sealer to fail. Additionally, these sealers are often non-breathable, trapping moisture within the property. This moisture, which naturally builds up due to condensation, can lead to damp problems and structural deterioration.
To waterproof exterior walls, a breathable treatment is necessary. The best form of clear waterproofing treatment is masonry cream, which is clear, gel-like treatments that chemically bond to brick and other mineral surfaces. Masonry cream forms a part of the material, making it waterproof, rather than being coated in a waterproofing layer.
A breathable sealer or sealant must have an SD value of below 1 to be considered breathable. If a sealer or sealant is not breathable, it can have severe consequences, such as the sealer eventually failing and damp problems worsening. To waterproof brick, use a masonry cream, which chemically bonds to the surface, forming a part of the material and becoming waterproof. This approach ensures that moisture is trapped and unable to escape, preventing the sealer from failing and enhancing the overall appearance of the property.
What is the best way to waterproof a brick wall?
Microshield Masonry Water Repellent is a single-coat liquid water repellent designed for large areas, providing high-quality water resistance for 10-15 years. PermaSEAL Brick Sealer is another high-performance non-cream option, but waterproofing creams like Microshield Ultra and PermaSEAL Facade Cream can provide 20-30 years of water resistance in a single coat. To apply the water repellent, the substrate must be in sound condition and untreated, with structural defects like cracks, joints, and connections remedied. Applying the masonry cream involves applying one coat using a brush or roller, or spraying it.
How long does brick sealer last?
Brick sealing typically lasts under 5 years, with some lasting only 12 months. The best product for brick sealing is a Silane/Siloxane sealer, which provides a hydrophobic barrier within the pores to protect the brick. Key ingredients in brick sealers include silane, siloxane, or acrylic-based compounds, which effectively protect brick surfaces from moisture damage. It’s essential to choose the right product for long-lasting protection.
How do you seal brick walls?
The Interior Brick Sealer and Dustproofer is a simple and effective solution for sealing interior brick walls. It can be applied using a brush, sponge, or microfibre cloth, or a low-pressure sprayer with a coarse nozzle. Excess sealer can be removed with a brush or roller, and any excess can be blotted off with cloths or a dry roller. Sealing surfaces is crucial in commercial environments to prevent airborne dusting, which can contaminate electrical systems and the working environment.
Is waterproofing brickwork a good idea?
The untreated surface on the right is experiencing severe damp and moisture issues, particularly during rainfall. This has led to mould growth due to water seeping into the substrate. If left untreated, health-threatening mould problems may occur, potentially damaging the brickwork. Applying brick sealer can protect walls from moisture, reduce costs by minimizing heat loss through wet walls, and significantly reduce cleaning costs.
For long-term protection against damp and moisture, consider using our Brick Sealer or Masonry Cream, which offer value-priced products that increase thermal efficiency and protect your home from damp and moisture.
What is the best sealant for brickwork?
Smartseal is a brick sealer that is easy to use and effective in protecting bricks, masonry, and facades from water ingress and soiling. It is suitable for bricks, masonry, and facades, and is oil and water repellent, preventing organic growth, stain and dirt resistant, and solvent-free. The product requires two coats as it quickly soaked into bricks. For best results, apply generously, allowing complete saturation, with coverage expected around 5m² per litre for most brickwork and up to 10m² per litre for stone walls and specialist bricks.
How to stop moisture in a brick wall?
Water often gets behind the veneer in a home, but this can be mitigated by a free-draining cavity between the brick and structural frame. Proper weeps and through-wall flashing allow incidental water to escape, reducing moisture-related issues. Weep holes are needed at the base of walls, below windowsills, at all lintels, and where horizontal structural elements interrupt the drainage plane. If blocked, water can trap and work its way past the WRB, leading to pest intrusion, rot, mold, and even catastrophic damage. Proper weep holes and drainage cavities are essential for maintaining a dry home.
How long does brick water seal last?
The longevity of masonry and brick sealers is contingent upon several factors, including the climate, the intended use of the wall, and the degree of exposure. When applied correctly, these sealants can last up to five years. Some manufacturers assert that their products will remain effective for up to 25 years before requiring re-sealing.
What are the disadvantages of waterproofing?
DIY basement waterproofing can be dangerous due to the use of harsh chemicals, mold, and potential injuries. It’s essential to have proper protection and be aware of the risks associated with working in tight spaces and lifting heavy objects. Additionally, DIY basement waterproofing can be costly, especially if done by professionals with experience and training. Therefore, it’s advisable to leave the job to professionals for safer and more cost-effective solutions.
Can you waterproof the inside of a brick wall?
Tremco’s ExoAir 220 product is a fluid-applied air barrier that can be specified for above-grade applications with the purpose of waterproofing the interior face of masonry walls.
📹 Brick Sealer/Waterproofer Comparison
If you want to know if brick waterproof sealers discolour the bricks, this video is for you. I tested four different brick sealers that are …
I used a similar product on a Victorian house more than 20 years ago and the problem is still solved. Amazing stuff. It also stopped the brick surface weathering. I just wish more people understood how good it is and stopped wasting so much money on avoidable scaffolding and brickwork or ineffective internal replastering.
i have worked with with these products for 7 years now.. its actually what they class as nano technology. Once applied onto brickwork or stonework the nano particles sink into the substrate and provide a protective barrier.. aswell as not allowing water to penetrate it also provides thermal efficiency, brethability and also is self cleaning due to the moisture repelling properties in the product. Awesome product.
About six years ago I had water coming in round two windows. I replaced several bricks that were spalled, did some re pointing and sealed round the windows with CT1. Still the water was getting in so I did some research and found Stormdry. It is very expensive, I think it cost me around £300 to do the whole side of my house. I did it myself in a few hours and really pleased to say it does work. I would definitely recommend it.
I’ve had a problem of water penetrating the roof space. The builder decided after doing everything that the bricks were porous on our 1820 chimney. Rain was soaking into the bricks and exiting in the roof where a wooden beam touched it. Stormdry24 absolutely solved the issue 100% … It really is amazing stuff. It’s meant to last 25 years with one coat. I gave it two anyway as I might as well use up the 3 litre tub. It’s expensive at £80, but as the builders and scaffolding costing me £1300 its dead cheap. Ps yes I too noticed the cement pointing rather than lime mortar on the article. Who the heck does that!
Have used this product i had cavity wall insulation which had broken down allowing penetrating damp instead of spending 6k to have it removed I used this product, it worked brilliantly if you throw water at the wall it beads off and does not penetrate although it is expensive £120 for 5 L but it is BBA approved and is warranted to last at least 25 years good vid as always Roger
I have used silicone based liquid to waterproof brickwork on chimneys, roof tiles and below dpc. There are 2 types: water and spirit based. The water based was a pain to get on as you had to work to get the brick ‘wetted’. The spirit based went in like blotting paper so I always use that. Your product looks very interesting
Interesting product, could be useful in some situations, especially in money saving situations. The real crux here seems to be that this grade 2 building was clearly originally lime pointed, you can see it in the b roll shot and at the front where the pointing has failed, has been pointed with cement. Get that off, repoint with lime and the failure of the bricks will be greatly reduced, moisture escaping that wall will be using the bricks causing deterioration as the cement is to impervious.
Fantastic articles you post here, I watch every one. I only wish I could find builders as good as you lot. My last builders were so crap I had to undo what they did and ended up doing it myself, with help from YouTube articles like this. One guy invoiced me £5000 for some steels which I found out cost him £500!!! Beware of builder’s trying to rip you off! Or like me never trust anyone again and do it yourself.
Very good, I have a brick built bungalow and the course below the DPC are not engineering bricks and seem to absorb water. The walls are cavity with a injected cavity wall insulation the damp is visible above the DPC and know what brickies are like the will be a lot of mortar down at the base of the cavity which gets damp and transmits the damp through to the inner leaf of thermal blocks. This article has just introduced a fix from sorting out the problem before it becomes a larger issue.
Keep up the good work Roger, there is no end to how much people can add to their skill and knowledge base, and lets face it, its in short supply at times. Builders need to be encouraged to engage their brains more as well, is the greatest gift we’ve all been given as well as working on fair levels of disclosure.
great article. Ive just built a house and realised the bricks and mortar are very pourious .im considering coating the south east wall in stormdry. many building friends warn me against doing this as the brickwork is less than a year old and needs to weather. my questions are – 1. is this a good idea on a new build? 2. does the wall need to be dry for application of this product ? 3. is product water or spirit bassed? thanks for any replys
Damp issues are a really complicated thing and I guarantee you, you’ll get a load of grief from the ‘Peter ward’ brigade, but, I know one thing, as much as he’s right in many ways, he also talks a load of bollox on others. Your option may well be a great way to deal with the issue and I can see your thoughts, absolutely. Something I noticed on that area was there are a few blown bricks and cement pointing. The cement pointing stops the bricks and joints from breathing so moisture is kept in the brick, when it freezes the brick blows out. A possibility may have been to point it in lime to allow the brick to breathe though I think maybe it wouldn’t have been any more affective than what you did. If it was my house there is no question I’d have done what you did. Thinking out loud mate 👍🏻
One other issue is that the inside of the wall has been painted with modern emulsion. Limewash would allow the wall to breathe from the inside out. The emulsion has most likely sealed the inside allowing the damp to work in from the outside. I am assuming that modern plaster has not been applied to the wall beforehand. Lime plaster allows the wall to breathe.
Hi! This is really very informative. I live in a 140-year old cottage bungalow. Everytime there is heavy rain, there is a leak coming into the chimney although it has been closed off from the top and bottom fitted with a vent. We had 5 roofers who have looked into the problem but no one has yet solved the issue. It has costed money! Is it worth using this product around the chimney bricks? I would reallh appreciate any help as this has caused us so much stress.
should have been repointed in lime soft red bricks and had waterproof cement doesn’t work. Soft red bricks absorb water if pointed with lime as some of the originals on the wall seem to be higher up the water absorbed by the soft red bricks evaporates through the lime mortar (the original mortar) the lime mortar may well need repainting at some stage the problems occur when it is repointed with ‘waterproof’ hard cement. In the winter when the bricks get wet the cement mortar largely stops the moisture escaping and in freezing temperatures the water freezes blowing the faces (spalling) off some of the bricks. The cement mortar can also develop small cracks which draw water into the wall by capillary action. That wall has been repointed with the wrong material. You can see it sometimes on old walls on bridges in the countryside over small rivers where they have been repointed with cement instead of lime over years the faces of the bricks spell and crack much worse than they would otherwise and recede to the point where only the cement mortar remains outstanding, clearly making the point as this does not happen to anywhere near the same extent with lime mortar. Lime mortar allows the evaporation of moisture from the wall and so results in massively fewer spelled or damaged bricks. The mortar itself is soft ish and allows for movement too but may need to be redone over time but saves the majority of the faces of the bricks. It’s easy enough to research. Stops any damp problems on the inside then too.
I’ve discovered that the damp we talked about, is a rain ingress issue, ear to the wall, you can hear heavy dripping in the cavity. Have zero clue how. Have done 7 jobs so far, ridge tiles, new felt, silicon, sandtex, not made any difference, rain causes the constant dripping noise. At a total loss. Going to try to a tarpaulin experiment, covering each area of the roof, gutters, old kitchen chimney. If that doesn’t id the source, I’m knocking the house down and buying a tent😭😭❤️
While I think the product technically works I have seen instances where this or similar products have been applied to buildings where proper diagnosis has not been carried out. Sealing brickwork is not a panacea for preventing damp. Mend leaking gutter is often all you havevto do. So please, if you have a listed building learn to live with its vulerabilities, keep it warm and don’t slap stuff on until you know that the principle is correct. If water gets in but can’t get out the situation could worsen.
Good Morning Roger, I’m hoping you can share some of your valuable advice and knowledge. I live in a semi-detached 1903 stone built house in Wales. We have signs of damp on the inside wall with bubbling paint and plaster. I believe this is because of the 6-7 months of rain experienced over the last autumn and winter 2023/24. I’m going to be renovating this room completely with new plaster etc. but before commencing the work I’d like to solve the damp issue. Your thoughts and opinions would be gratefully received. Kindest regards Michael. I have some photos, how can I send these to you.
SB, if you have a solid brick Pot brick, walls with no cavity what is the best method to insulate the property, internal Or External, if the outer walls have rendered masonary and the property is a terrace property, with minimal signs of condensation. Would weather proofing cream being applied to external walls be enough?
Going to have to try this,last option before considering cladding. My house is 1890 end of terrace and the side takes a right battering. The neighbour’s was built 1914 and we chucked a bucket of water at the side of the house and I could not believe how quickly the water was absorbed. 2 seconds and no trace of water at all.
Hi Roger, My daughter will long-term renting a flat in an old tenement in a few weeks. A couple of cupboards have exposed brickwork in really poor condition and possible damp as if the doors have just been placed over a recess to cover it up. What would you recommend to seal this such that there is no damp smells and the cupboard can be used?
Hi, I was looking at this product for my house which is stone(white lias stone ) it has been repointed with lime mortar about 4 years ago. I also have stone mullion windows(bath stone) I rang the company who make this product and they advised i use Raincheck LS instead as better for limestone. Do you have any experience/advice when sealing stone walls not brick and which product to use please? Thanks
Hello love your articles . I used the abacus board to do my bathroom fantastic stuff . In relation to this water profer I have solid walls on my bungalow with horrible pebble dash which in future I’d like to have silicon render out on would this stop the rendering adhering properly or it it ok to use ? Any advice would be fantastic 👍
Hi Roger lovely rewarding article. Just wanted to kindly ask you if I can use this storm dry on external block work. Or what do you recommend. The pea shingle set on render has blown away and become brittle so the rain is penetrating through to the internal kitchen wall. Some advise would be much appreciated, Kind regards, Saj, London.
I’m guessing the building is quite old, has solid (non cavity) walls and did not originally have a modern DPC membrane. It would have been built with lime which is much softer than cement, allows the building to breathe and helps moisture escape. I’ve just removed the awful pebble dash & cement plaster from my 1870-ish stone building and there is no longer any damp issues. At some point someone without historic building knowledge has probably used the wrong materials (inside and out) and you are now fighting that battle. Sure, this product may work in the short term and it probably does what it claims. But there is no substitute for using the right materials for the job.
Bit of advice Had a block built 6 x 4m unit built ( while on holiday) on a reinforced concrete pad Apparently no dpc was put down It’s single skin block, what’s or how is it best to move forward as it looks like damp is coming in will the celotex stop this coming through when done, no gutter fitted as yet so they will help Would you tyvek the outer and then clad ?
This is very helpful actually because I live in an Edwardian house that’s been converted into a downstairs and upstairs flat and the bricks have been crumbling for years and I know when it rains the walls are affected. I too experience my electric tripping but had no idea why. I keep going on at my landlord about the state of the bricks all they do is pay a surveyor to make reports but not much happens or they tell me they have no evidence of any reports. Now I’m told they’re going to spray the internal walls which have been affected but surely the outside walls need treatment also???
I just spray the wall with ‘Siliconate K’ diluted with water. Lasts over 10 years and waterproofs the masonry. I had water tracking issues in the past but no longer and after any rain the house is dry fast. p.s My house is built out of faux stone but when wet looks dry now. This is like water when applying and soaks in well. Just for heavens sake do not get it on glass as it will etch and never come off so cover your windows and move your car if spraying it !
Hi I have a new shed built with cavity blocks. Plastered on the outside and skimmed on the inside. During heavy rain one bottom corner inside gets wet. Seems to be right in the very corner and spreads according to the amount of rain. No sign of damage on outside. Really worried about this,do you have and suggestions why this might be happening or better still a cure. Thanks
Hi Roger, ive got thick thick moss growing between my bricks on my rear house wall. I’ve scrapped some off but you can never remove all the spores and i can see it developing again 6 months later. What do you reckon would be a permanent solution?. Have a builder remove and repoint all my bricks or apply some sort of solution to let it die, remove, repoint and use stormdry as a sealer? ps my house is 10 years old, was a new build and is a single brick skin over a timber framed substructure..cheers
Tried this product and it didn’t work at all for me. Applied it as instructions stated, on the weather prevailing single brick walls on my garage, didn’t notice any improvement on these wall at all, so complained to the Stormdry. They were not at all sympathetic to the problem and seem to blame my application method (which I had already stated that I had followed the instructions). I sent them the batch numbers of the four tubs I bought, they then wanted me to test the walls with a kit they sent, which didn’t work. I know the product doesn’t work, it doesn’t bead water off, as shown on the articles, and the walls get soaking wet inside, when the rain beats agains those walls. I gave up in the end, but in my experience, I definitely can’t recommend this product, it was a very costly mistake.
Hi Roger, love your article tutorials. 👍 Could I please get your advice on recommending the right Masonry lacquer or paint to improve my sandstone coloured wall? I’m not a builder, but had a go, and built a 30ft wide retaining wall at the rear of the garden, but after using brick cleaner to clean up my mess, it doesnt look particularly appealing to look at. It looks much better when its wet. All the products I can find are Matt finish, but not sure if that will work. I have also built a 10ft x 8ft summer house from the leftover bricks, using the same bricks, but that looks a little better. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, regards Stuart, UK
We had new windows fitted 2 years ago and ever since we’ve had leak above our living room bay window coming from the bedroom directly above it. We have had a builder in to look and silicone around the window to try and cover any holes. Would this product be useful on rough cast? Really want the leaks and mould to stay away. Love the articles very helpful for novices like me
I used this 5 years ago on a wall that had had cavity wall flock injected and caused mould to form inside. After application I have had no more problems and after rain, you can tell that my house is protected when you look at the rest of the houses around me. It’s not cheap but better than a damp house.
Peter ward said not to use “Stormdry” as it Seals the moisture in & doesn’t allow the bricks to breath. We’ve bought a early 1900’s Terraced Property with Gable End Wall with damp issues, where the Bricks have been turned in, as tie’s & the previous owner has coated the whole wall in bitumen making it far worse after 20yrs of rain & sunshine baking it. I was considering sand blasting the wall to remove the old bitumen & sealing it with Stormdry. Any Views on this ?
I live in a 1897 house and have a problem with a reoccurring damp patch on the inside wall. The wall has been skimmed and I applied damp paint prior to the skimming but it keeps coming back? Should I use breathable water sealer on the exterior wall to help solve the problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Can someone tell me if this product can be used on the interior brick wall face? We will work on the exterior grading to get the water away from the outside wall. But we had in the past had someone apply an interior stucco finish (1″ thick) and now that painted surface is crumbing off. We have taken it all off 50ft long interior basement wall and now want to seal the interior brick from the floor to above exterior grade.
Can this be used on pebble dash, I have a corner on my house just under the gutter that always looks wetter than the rest of the house. Some penetrating damp appeared in the corner of the bedroom on the inside, I cleaned the guttering out and replaced the corner, it has dried out but sometimes still feels a tiny bit damp.Could this be a solution. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.
rodger what would cause small holes in mortar. these are occurring on a east facing gable end and with a quick poke with a skewer revel that they penetrate through to the cavity. only noticed the last few days as there has been a lot of bee activity. there are not 1 or 2 holes but numerous ones over a large area. thankyou
I am not in the humor of Trolling down through all the comments but an RCD trip is due to a neutral to earth fault so I think she should call an electrician. Damp coming into contact with electrical sockets in theory does cause problems but only if you have a neutral fault. As a safe electric contractor please advise her to get this checked. Thank you
As others have said, the problem in this case appears to be the cement mortar. My understanding is a Conservation officer should be consulted prior to conducting any work on a facade, the cement repairs might be ‘part of the history of the building’. Alternately they could be quite recent and unauthorised, in which case you might have to pay for the work to be put back to it’s original state. Always best to seek advice before going ahead.
hi Roger mate, could you pls tell me if l could use Stormdry on a rendered wall? l was hoping l could, but, after listening to your clip above lm not feeling to hopeful as beforehand. We have a lot of cracks in the render and was hoping it might have been an easy fix for me to just paint along all of them. just wanted to confirm what l am thinking myself now after as said, perusal your clip above. cheers
My trouble is direct penetration through a building stone (mortar-plastered inside and out) wall 2’4″ thick. Inside you can see a damp patch radiating out for about 2′ diameter. It surrounds a double socket that’s used occasionally. There are some structural cracks on outside wall growing from the window lintels. I was afraid that water could have got into these, froze during a recent icy spell and forced more space during the ice’s expansion. I can switch off a circuit-breaker controlling the sockets near the damp patch. But how does a fella fix the damp getting in ?
Hi Roger, that house will never dry out now. The product is sealing the exterior and stopping any chance of moisture in the fabric of the building escaping. Buildings this age need to breathe. Rake out all cement mortar, rake out any perished lime mortar, replace any detoriating bricks and repoint in a breathable flexible lime mortar, a hot lime mix preferably. The homeowner is going to notice more mold and mildew and this can cause health problems. To paint on a PVA is what…. 2 days work?. To rake out, replace brick and repoint supports a craftspersons trade and can provide weeks of work. The trade is happy, the building is secure and the client is delighted. If it’s a Grade 2 listed building then grants can be applied for so the job is affordable to the client. Sorry but I just see this product as being harmful to the structure and that’s based on experience backed up by the fact that breathability is the life blood of traditional structures. All the best Roger.
Can anyone recomend a good breathable coloured masonry paint? I have a patchy “I think its construction Brick, probably, Fleton Brick” wall I want to paint and make it look a bit better. The house already has problems with damp and poor insulation. So I want something breathable that will help with this and not make it worse. I’m looking at. Keim Soldalit ME, Its expensive but does not require a primer. I would appreciate peoples thoughts on this and alternatives, because I want to get something good. I don’t mind paying a bit more as long as it’s a genuinely good product.
StormDry is a great product but not for this Building as its build with lime mortar. You need to rake out all the cement pointing done and repoint using a traditional lime mortar.. back to its original condition. This will allow the building to breath naturally. Kind regards Chaplin Building And Repointing
The Brick Development Association states, ‘We believe the use of sealants and water repellent treatments on brickwork is totally unnecessary and take the view that properly specified and built work performs perfectly satisfactorily in resisting water penetration by wind driven rain, without their need. Brickwork inevitably gets wet in rainy weather and dries out later. This is the way it works and has done so for thousands of years.’ You would think they would know what they are talking about!
AH PUT THE WRONG STUFF IN YOUR DAMPCOURSE YOU WILL GET WHAT A VERY REDUCED HOUSE PRICE BE DONE DELIBERATE A LITTLE DAMP COULD LEAD TO SUBSIDENCE EASY TREATED SEEING STRUCTURAL WEAKNESSESS POSSIBLE TO ARTIFICIALLY BUILD IN OR FALSE SURVEYORS FALSE APRAISAL OH MR SORRY TO SAY ALL THE WALLS NEED AN THE FOUNDATIONS OH I AM SO HAPPY FOR ME ?
Hello. I’ve JUST found your website, and have subscribed. Would these types of products be any good to seal a breeze block council shed? It has been horribly wet and damp for years and seems to be getting worse. The roof is asbestos, and the council won’t do anything about that. The council gave it ONE coat of white paint last year (their 20 year maintenance 🙄) but wouldn’t do a 2nd coat. I’m disabled with Chronic Illnesses/Severe Chronic Pain, and I live in a rural area, where it is nigh impossible to get any DIY help, but have just recently employed a cleaning lady who can garden too. She mentioned that she could do some shed painting for me. Obviously it’s too late in the year now…we have been getting a lot of frosty nights. Do you think another coat of white paint should be put on first, before anything else? It was in a bad way before the council painted it….peeling paintwork, but their layer is so thin, it’s peeling again in parts. Any advice would be welcome. Thank you.