Botrytis cinerea, also known as gray mold or bud rot, is a common humidity-related disease found in greenhouses worldwide. With over 200 known species, it can spread and infest cannabis crops. To prevent bud rot, growers should maintain optimal humidity levels between 40 and 50 during the flowering stage, ensure good air circulation, and manage plant density and canopy effectively.
To prevent bud rot, growers should understand the conditions that allow mold to thrive: high humidity, mild temperatures, poor ventilation, and dense plants. Maintaining a humidity range of 44-55% is ideal for bud mold to survive. Properly ventilated spaces where air can easily circulate are also crucial. Dehumidification is an effective way to prevent bud rot by using dehumidifiers like DryGair.
To prevent bud rot, growers should keep buds dry, ensure optimal airflow, set the ideal temperature, trim bushy plants, and choose the appropriate defoliation method. If bud rot is found, remove the branch and continue to monitor all other buds.
Keeping humidity low in the greenhouse or grow room provides the first layer of protection against bud rot. However, cannabis plants transpire, and maintaining good growing conditions and proper maintenance can help prevent bud rot. Proper ventilation and air circulation within the greenhouse can help reduce the impact of bud rot.
In conclusion, controlling greenhouse or grow room climate conditions is the most effective way to prevent bud rot or its symptoms. By identifying signs of bud rot early on and pruning them, growers can minimize the impact of this disease on their cannabis plants.
📹 Cannabis Mould, BUD ROT Or Mildew – Diagnosis & Prevention Guide
Today on Lex’s World a discussion of Botrytis fungus (Bud rot), mildew and powdery white mould, the most common types of …
What is the best spray for botrytis?
Botrytis cinerea, a common greenhouse disease, is highly susceptible to bedding plants. Growers should be proactive in scouting for signs of infection and using appropriate fungicides. Botrytis can survive on leaves, flowers, stems, or plant debris, and can spread through water splashing and air currents. The disease is encouraged by free moisture on plant tissues, high relative humidity, and cool temperatures.
Condensation on greenhouse glazing can drip onto foliage and flowers, creating the perfect conditions for gray mold infection and development. Growers should use pesticides like fludioxinil, mercury, and trifloxystrobin to manage this common disease.
What to spray to prevent bud rot?
BioSafe ZeroTol is a potent bactericide and fungicide that effectively kills algae, bacteria, and fungi on contact. It is a safe and effective solution for eliminating Bud Rot in hemp gardens and sanitizing plants before harvest. ZeroTol is a mixture of food-grade hydrogen peroxide and peroxyacetic acid, and can be sprayed on the day of harvest to prevent mold. It can also be used as an anti-fungal root drench, dip for sanitizing tools, or a spray for grow/dry rooms and harvest facilities.
The author uses ZeroTol to prevent Bud Rot from entering drying facilities. The hemp industry faces numerous pests and diseases, including Bud Rot, which is a destructive pest. To combat this, it is crucial to understand the enemy and remain persistent in the fields before harvesting.
How do you prevent botrytis?
Botrytis, also known as gray mold or bud rot, is a common humidity-related disease found in greenhouses worldwide. With over 200 known species, it affects most fruits, vegetables, flowers, and cannabis. Preventing botrytis is crucial for various horticultural sectors. Gray mold begins when the botrytis cinerea fungus infiltrates the plant through soft tissue or wounds. It develops inside the plant and eventually erupts on various parts of the plant, including leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit. Proper irrigation, straight to the soil, and avoiding leaves can significantly decrease the presence of water and inhibit germination.
What temperature kills bud rot?
Bud rot is a common issue in plants, and its prevention can be achieved by following specific guidelines. The ideal temperature for bud rot is above 68°F, with greenhouses using heaters to avoid cold nights. Indoor growers should be cautious about spores, changing clothes before entering the growroom, and never allowing pets inside. Bud rot prefers plants with the most moisture, so it’s important to monitor denser colas. Infections should be removed immediately and not allowed to touch unaffected ones.
Limiting humidity is another effective way to avoid bud rot. If bud rot persists, it may be due to growing the wrong strain for the conditions. If the density of the flower is the issue, selecting a different strain may be more effective than treatment and prevention.
How do you stop bud rot in a greenhouse?
Bud Rot, a slang term for Botrytis or gray mold, is a type of fungus or mold that affects cannabis buds, commonly known as buds. It begins to grow in the cores of the densest buds, initially located on the stem inside the bud. The mold is difficult to see in the beginning stages, but once it spreads, surrounding buds are broken down. Bud rot impacts plants indoors or outdoors, producing spores that can spread to other areas. The first noticeable symptom is a wispy white mold, which turns gray, then black, and the buds take on a slimy, mushy consistency.
To prevent Bud Rot, use Trifecta Crop Control, use an exhaust fan for air circulation, shake plants to remove excess moisture, ensure humidity, remove lower and middle leaves, and thoroughly inspect plants daily.
Will baking soda prevent bud rot?
The use of baking soda and potassium bicarbonate has been demonstrated to prevent bud rot and impede its progression, effectively controlling the proliferation of powdery mildew and Botrytis cinerea. To achieve the desired result, a solution of baking soda, water, organic dish soap, and vegetable oil should be prepared and subsequently applied to the cannabis buds and beneath the leaves. To achieve the most favorable outcomes, it is recommended to combine milk with baking soda. This method has been demonstrated to be effective against powdery mildew and Botrytis cinerea.
Can bud rot be stopped?
Dehumidification is the most effective way to prevent bud rot, as high humidity is the leading cause. Dehumidifiers like DryGair remove excess moisture from the air using a controlled condensation technique, ensuring dry conditions in greenhouses or grow rooms. Maintaining low relative humidity reduces the risk of dew point condensation, making it almost impossible to prevent bud rot. In an environment with no condensation and zero water presence, bud rot can be completely prevented.
How do you control Botrytis in a greenhouse?
The effective management of Botrytis diseases can be achieved through the implementation of a multifaceted approach, encompassing the manipulation of environmental conditions, the adoption of sound cultural practices, and the judicious use of fungicides.
What can I spray to prevent bud rot?
BioSafe ZeroTol is a potent bactericide and fungicide that effectively kills algae, bacteria, and fungi on contact. It is a safe and effective solution for eliminating Bud Rot in hemp gardens and sanitizing plants before harvest. ZeroTol is a mixture of food-grade hydrogen peroxide and peroxyacetic acid, and can be sprayed on the day of harvest to prevent mold. It can also be used as an anti-fungal root drench, dip for sanitizing tools, or a spray for grow/dry rooms and harvest facilities.
The author uses ZeroTol to prevent Bud Rot from entering drying facilities. The hemp industry faces numerous pests and diseases, including Bud Rot, which is a destructive pest. To combat this, it is crucial to understand the enemy and remain persistent in the fields before harvesting.
How to prevent botrytis?
Dehumidifiers are a crucial component in the prevention of botrytis and other fungal diseases, as they facilitate the maintenance of lower relative humidity levels. In ecosystems with high population density, the tendency for water vapor to disperse is impeded, resulting in the formation of high-humidity pockets, or boundary layers. The dispersion of plants allows for increased airflow through the canopy, thereby reducing humidity accumulation and preventing condensation.
Will a fan prevent bud rot?
To prevent bud mold in grow rooms, it is crucial to have a well-ventilated space with air flow that is easily circulated. This can be achieved by using a quality intake filter and regular cleaning. Fans are often used to keep clean air circulating freely, as stagnant air can facilitate fungal development and spread faster among healthy plants. Limiting the entry of people and things into the grow room, such as clothes, shoes, pets, or anything else, can help reduce the risk of pathogens.
Additionally, maintaining a sterile environment is essential, as mold spores, pet hair, dirt, and debris can carry pathogens that can destroy crops. To ensure a sterile environment, the grow room should be properly sealed and closed off, ensuring that no openings or vents are left open.
📹 Prevent Cannabis Bud Rot From Rain | Protect or Harvest Flowers?
In this episode, you get the seventh update for TD’s season 2 to grow and learn how TD protects his plants from the rain, and why …
Wow! 450K+ views on this article! I’m glad it helped a lot of folks out. Please sub if you’re new to my website, I have a LOT of short, How-To Cannabis stuff like this. I did want to add a comment on the content of this article – in the end of it, when talking about Treatment options, I kind of lumped Powdery Mildew together with Budrot and Mould as a problem without a lot of solutions other than “cut it off”….this is not the case! In fact, unlike Budrot, by the time you “cut off” off PM, it has usually spread all over that plant anyway. There ARE many ways to manage Powdery Mildew, whether it’s wet or dry type (Cannnabis more often gets dry type)…from fungicidal sprays to googlable recipes involving ethanol-based mouthwash…there’s actually many solutions to managing powdery mildew…though it IS persistent…there is even a way to wash off small amounts of PM that formed even after harvest…see my bud washing episode!
Great info, I never had a problem indoor but outdoor I have seen this many times! I have had to trash pounds of bud just because of bud rot! Very informative and loved the article. Like I said if a plant has bud rot you’ve pretty much lost that plant! I have cut away affected areas and still end up seeing it on other bud on that plant.
Here in northwest coast of Canada this has been the problem growing outdoors. It rains allot here and once the buds get wet there is nothing that can save them. However certain strains do allot better than others I lost 3 out of 4 of my plants this year the 4th one was a white widow and it yielded 8 ounces and even withstood temps down to 3 degrees Celsius. Allso autoflower can do well because you can harvest them before the rainy September and October.
I’ve had brown mold recently growing on one of my flowering plant, I’ve open buds up picked all the mold out and the spores and sprayed zerotol and Hydrogen peroxide directly on the sites where the mold was at, it seems to have completely stoped the growth and spreading without having to chop of any buds completely!! Over a week and no further mold growth
Also if you foliar spray too late into the flowering phase you may develop bud rot and mold also .. I’ve found that your sprayer has a high percentage of causing this due the fact that it may be spraying out the solution in too big of water droplets that the stomata of the plant cannot absorb it leaving it there on the bud/leaf.. avoid this by not spraying after week 2 of flower and if you must spray after that either for a deficiency or a pest problem. MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ATOMIZER NOZZLE 👍🏼
Mate, have you ever tried spraying early stage with milk powder / water mix? Try 10% grass fed milk powder dissolved well in water and spray on the effected area. Allow to dry.. repeat the next day if there is any mix remaining. Store in fridge. Use while fresh. (It works well on zucchini plants too) Chur
I’ve never had this issue, if you have I would ask you what intake/exhaust fans are you running? If you have one or two oscillating fans that is enough but if you’re not getting fresh air in the room with an even distribution of fresh air that is being exhausted, it probably explains it. Try to mount at least one of your best fans up high, the higher the better. Hot air rises and if you mount it high it will evenly distribute the heat and air in the room. Your intake ducting should be low in the room and your exhaust should be mounted as high as possible. Use your second fan to oscillate through the buds and that is probably the best you can get.
I have a 2 fans in my tent…one above the canopy and one below. I also try to keep the middle of the plant defoliated to increase airflow. Temps are usually 77-80 and humidity around 53%. We’ve had a pretty humid heat wave the last week or so and temps have risen to around 82 in my tent and humidity around 63% during lights on and almost 70% during lights off. My fans do run 24-7 and I have a dehumidifier running 24-7 as well. I’m getting about 5 gallons of water out of the air every day and a half to 2 days…it’s simply not working. I’m so paranoid about mold lol. It’s supposed to cool down for the next 6 or so days starting tomorrow so fingers crossed. I’m entering week 6 of flower.
Mold on my beautiful Bruce Banners is what brings me here. I want to know why I got it and how to never get it again. When you said most mold can be traced to poor air flow, it started me to thinking. My tent gets plenty of air circulation but my grow room doesn’t. It’s a 10’10’ room with a window unit that recirculates the room air. I have no fresh air coming in that tiny room that has 3 grow tents and a closet growing bud. The door stays closed and there is no central air. Since my temps are kept between 70-75f and rh is 50%, and I have plenty of air flow all inside the tents, then the closed room must be the cause of the mold. Right? You never mention fresh air but it was probably implied. What do you think? Edit: The grow room itself is also kept cool 69f and rh@60%
I’m pissed I just found some mold in my buds and I’m about a week away from cutting down. I couldn’t believe I looked inside the bottom buds that were tight at the bottom and I opened it up and i seen the white hairy mold. Cost me one bud so far, it also is foxtailing. This was my first indoor grow in a while and I still didn’t do it right by using the same size pots, the same strain, and s all that. Like the grow boss says. Of a kind, of a size, under a light. Which means use the same strain, use the same bucket size, and if you veg in a 1 gallon, go to a 3 or 5 to flower. I’m going to start with solo cups and wait till they get to Big for the and then transplant into a 1 or 2 gallon. I’m pretty sure if you start with a 2 gallon that you’ll be able to flower in a 5 gallon. I got these 5 gallon cloth pots from vivosun and I swear they’re bigger than a traditional 5 gallon pot. They’re short and wide. My other cloth 5 gallon ones seem small to these idk.
Pretty much every single instance of bud mold I’ve found has been instigated by a caterpillar (yeah I’m outside)). The holes they leave exiting the stems ouput wood pulp for several days, along with their poop of course. That nasty sawdust sitting on buds will provoke instant bud mold if it gets wet. I can go to my garden every single day and remove multiple (hopefully) small bud sites where it’s just starting up. If I don’t ID the location and clean it up it can progress through the stem itself, and if it does that lower on a stem everything upstream can get internally infected.
I learned last year the hard way about rot. outside. heavy rain during September’s humidity destroyed a beautiful bud spike and some other parts of the plant.one fucking day is all it took.this year, I ‘m a little tired of taking them inside every time it rains, I think next year I’ll get a tarp roof to at least keep them away from the rain. and that’s compounded by the harvesting of a wet plant. rot is possible.
I had my first grow. 1. My plants died early flowering stage 2. My plants had mildew pre flowering stage and I had trouble combatting it.. Didn’t get too intense 3. But I think my plants died due Nutrient deficiency/over a under watering So I haven’t thrown it all away at all.., I cut off the branches and set them aside maybe 2-3 weeks ago. I dont see mould but concerned about the mild mildew I had on my leaves. It didn’t get to advanced phase. My question is, after trming everything except premature buds, is there anything I can use it for? Its sticky when you handle it a lot and its crystally.. I harvested what I could in case theres value to it ?
You do not have to get rid of your plants, in 1 spraying of 30% milk 70% water 🤔 saturate entire plant, don’t forget to go under the leaf, high fan Dry until completely dry., Something about milk microbes in the milk will kill the mold instantly, but you have to catch this early before it’s too late
Ahhhh but what about the bud rot? A friend has a small spot of rot on top of of the bud. It’s early Sept in the North East & my boy was planning on leafing them grow a bit longer but he text me saying we might have to start trimming ASAP!? I have no clue lol I’m just the laborer 😬 you think we should cut away that spot & keep them in ground?
FINALLY! My bud has these microscopic, wispy, white hairs (very much smaller & thinner than trichomes), and I’ve been concerned what they actually are. After searching for info by perusal dozens & dozens of articles– as well as checking a few of the message forums online (GrassCity, RollItUp, etc)– I’ve finally seen HERE in your vid (notably the 2 microscopic close-ups you show from 3:35 onward) some gorgeous close-ups of actual mold. The images in this vid suggest a lateral webbing, spreading across from trichome to trichome, whereas my bud has this almost non-existent “fuzz” of these densely-packed, teensie-weensie short, little “hairs” that can ONLY be seen– just barely– through the microscope. They appear to be part of the plant itself (having grown outwards, like super-fine hair or stubble; “peach-fuzz”), but I’ve never before seen or heard of such plant-fuzz or plant-hair. Still not sure what I’m dealing with here (please write and let me know if you have any ideas, anyone), but it does not seem to be any of the molds or mildew described here. The strain of bud, BTW, is Grape Stomper OG. Thanks for posting!
I have found that if there is one bud on a plant that has even a small amount of mold it has already effected the whole plant . I had mold on just one bud and after properly drying I could smell like a burnt pop corn smell under the killer smell of he weed it self . When i smoked it it tasted good on the first hit than every hit after tastes like bunt pop corn. Thats not all I then get a flu like sick ness with a fever and a tiered and week feeling. This is mold as far as I can tell but it is invisible to the eye . This always happens when there is any mold at all on any part of my plants. Please make a article about the dangers of smoking invisible mold and why you may want to discard the whole plant instead of picking what looks like good bud. Also make a vid on how some genetics can be resistant to mold. And beneficial bacteria and fungi that organic growers swear by . Not all fungies or bacteria are bad for your plants you know at least thats what i have found . Is this true is this not your area of expertise ?
One of my Plant have mold on the top Bud. I got rid of the whole Crown (top Bud) and hope now it wont come back….( i have 2 plants ) I grow in growbox and my question is. Should I move my other Plant outside? Im scared that the second Plant will get Mould too….. or Just let it grow indoor till harvest and check every day it its clean?
Here’s what to do with mouldy weed: -(optional)Grind it up & put in on a dinner plate inside a bucket/upturned tub with Ozone generator blowing ozone into the tub (ozone chamber) & blast it with Ozone in the tub to kill live mold spores – Next blast it with butane to extract it – Once butane has evaporated, remix with 99% isopropanol (at least ) 20x as much alcohol as bho / 20:1 ratio. This ratio may end up eventually being 50:1 after you wash down funnels/jars/flasks with isopropanol after each filtration stage, it doesn’t really matter though. The more alcohol you use the less extract is lost via transfer processes but the longer it will take to filter and potentially use more filters – Put solution of green isopropanol in the freezer for at least 24hrs to get the lipids&waxes to precipitate – Filter through medium speed filter paper (5-15 micron) using gravity filtration, or alternatively a buchner funnel & vac pump to speed up filtration. This will remove lipids/waxes and larger particles which may block up the smaller filters later on – Filter again (using gravity or buchner filtration, although buchner thoroughly recommended) through slow speed filter paper (under 3 micron like whatman size 5 filters). Supposedly this should take out most mold spores, I’ve seen some websites claiming mold to be 3-12 microns in size and one claiming that it can be down to 1 micron in size, either way you’re almost done – Buy some 0.2 micron syringe filters (0.22 micron are more common and will do the job) 0.
i only had mold once from a bud that fell of a plant when i harvested and a few days later i saw it on the floor and was like ow another gram! and then i saw mold and was like aww, and just threw it out. but i never hada mold problem on my plant’s my room never gets above 40% humidity usually it’s to low like 20%
I have had a great looking plant . No visible mold at all then I flushed and started seeing some minor deficiencies I assumed it was due to the flush,,,,all the smaller buds are fine,,,but the two big main colas I had that are monsters,,,,,,after hanging them out for five days, I want to check and look deep into them,,I was like wow that’s a lot of resin I was like that can’t be resin,,to Dens and I looks close yeah mold at least I got all the mediocre nugs,,,dammit big buds need lot of attention
Hmm well im later in flower and this crazy weather may have spread it. I had one plant have a branch go dark early into flower. Finally cut it off today and strangely didnt see too much spread to other main branches. Another plant has small leaves densely placked together. Didnt get very tall and now am seeing dried out darker flowers throughout the lower and smaller branches as well as going up the main stocks. Have been cutting them off today. Is there anything i can do or should be aware of? Thanks!
Hi im so confused its my first grow outdoors in a non glass greenhouse . air flow i have a little fan in there and im nearly at the harvest stage but its looks lile tje colas are going mouldy i thought it was cobwebs untill i watched this the tricombes are not ready yet as there still pretty frosty white so whats gone wrong please help anybody i live in UK
Please Help!~ some old Botrytis bud got put into my grow room with 5 plants in veg by accident, and im wondering if theres a quick solution i can spray to them to kill any would be spores and cleanse the plants/area. and if i even should, i know from experience Botrytis goes straight for fluffy bud cuz it can nest in and find a nice home of moisture but will it even effect plants during veg that will be in veg for another month or two, will the spores die off?? will it consume leaves? and linger around until it forms on bud later? If so what should i do. PLEASE HELP!~
My flowering weed tree near my house is not feeling well lately..i dnt pay attention to her cause i was away due to other reasons,she has white mildew covering all her leaves,and most of the buds have their pistils rot i guess,they all are short and curled back ..yet the buds are still kinda growing…they are messing with my head,im so worried that i might lose it all☹️…only some of the buds have tricmes on it too and the others are like dry and dull..pleaseee can someone help me out before its too late😭
I have in the past used UV light/ ozone machine on some molded bud & that nuked it, it looked like 💩 but smoked better than most 💩 you get off the streets back then 🌎🤣 you could even run one for short periods inside the grow space, i have before now with no negative effects other than a few spots on leaves & reduction in scent for a short while, which is why i was testing it in there 🌱
You smoke moldy weed you can get bronchitis or pneumonia. I spent 4 days in the hospital and 2 months recovering after smoking weed that looked OK but had mold. Connecticut legal weed stores have standards for inspecting for mold but Massachusetts and many other states do not. The weed I smoked was home grown.
Lex I am currently on my third grow. I think I have powdery mildew on a couple of my sugar leaves but I am not sure. My tricombs are ridiculous . I was wondering is the whole plant done? The bud near wear mildew is touching? Or Just the leaf? Or is there a chance the mildew has not hit the bud yet? I just found this small area yesterday. But I have been battling it with a milk and water spray off and on for the last few weeks. Been rough weather!
I had “bud rot” pop up on a few plants this year, very frustrating. It started to happen that I would find a new section everyday, so explored further. I found that there were alot of tiny caterpillars living in the buds… my assumption is the cannabis buds might be too hard to digest for them, it seems they would go between the plant stem and bud stem and eat a hole into it… anywhere eaten would be dead and rotting in a couple days. Was wondering if it common with other people as I never saw anything about it when initially looking into why the rot is happening ….
Wowww Im a new grower I’m like a year into my first successful plant ever but I remember seeing the mildew on the leaves when it was a younger plant but I never knew what it was I thought it was possibly good for the plant but I’m budding hella now & the buds are beginning to rot… is there a way to reverse this or prevent my plant from completely dying? If possible?
Mildew is caused by lack of airflow and humid air. The environment cannabis evolved in had one monsoon, and then dry weather for the rest of the year, hot and cool. The developed flowers are almost intended to attract moisture, which can be handled by reducing and eventually eliminating watering. I think that after the water table disappeared and the soil became very dry, the flowers would still attract enough moisture to lead down the stems and to the roots, and moisten the soil just enough to be able to feed.
So take it or leave it, when I get it you can see it coming. First the hairs turn a dark brown, not orange, brown. Pretty sure that’s necrosis. Then the flower around that turns a light greenish yellow. Than shortly there after classic signs appear. When I’ve got a big girl week 5 on I’ll take a knife and split the large buds on the top open (using the way the plant grows not cutting it) and look inside for the brown and yellow. If I see that I try to increase air flow and drop rh, but in truth once it starts……. There is no best thing to do but remove, freeze and distillate. I find Cheese family plants and plants that flower like that are real susceptible where as say GG family is not. Had Blue dream got mildew from my ac head (lazy and stupid), BD was toast, GG was pretty much completely fine, well passed the mold lab.
I have 18 HUGE. plants 7 foot x 6 foot dia.. in a outdoor “in ground grow. ( Not in Planters) Because N.E.Pa. is getting a lot of constant precipitation with a couple days of sun or mix of sun and clouds I am getting bud rot. yesterday I frantically went to a Home and Garden Center and bought a gallon of neem oil and I have a industrial sprayer and I coated all my plants and buds with this neem oil . I also have four fans plugged in outside underneath these plants oscillating back and forth to keep air moving across them. as of now I have four beautiful days of weather but then it’s going to start raining again or chance of rain . My question is if I harvest them soon and once I dry and cure my buds how will the neem oil affect them will it degrade enough to not be noticeable and fall off my buds or will it be in the bud when it’s ready to smoke ? if anybody has any experience with that can you let me know
I’m 65 years old and have been smoking moldy Bud since I was 12 years old I smoke cigarettes too and a tobacco pipe and crack and lately I’ve been Hawking up a lot of slime I need to cut down on smoking that I smoke moldy weed for all those years what has it done to me? Maybe it has affected my thinking and made me more retarded
My Personal Thoughts on Cannabis & How I use this Medicinal Plant youtube.com/watch?v=q8IuPiijGbY This is one episode in my series: How to grow the most nutrient dense, terpene and cannabinoid rich cannabis outdoors using Organic Soil-Building Methods: Complete Season 1 from 2021 Grow (proving he got 10 pounds from one plant) 1st episode youtube.com/watch?v=v99ovYtLDiA 2nd episode youtube.com/watch?v=EqBA8FGyjVg 3rd episode youtube.com/watch?v=nvtRxlM75Hg 4th episode youtube.com/watch?v=sbaBTck4IK8 5th episode youtube.com/watch?v=Vl7oJrBUdIA 6th episode youtube.com/watch?v=-tADd2CWw4w Complete Season 2 from 2020 Grow 1st Episode youtube.com/watch?v=CVT1XYgmamc 2ndEpisode youtube.com/watch?v=7W8JAUeWoq4 3rd Episode youtube.com/watch?v=W5MxpsQKYXU 4th Episode youtube.com/watch?v=MEDLpmNGmPs 5th Episode youtube.com/watch?v=jxIBQAK53Fw 6th Episode youtube.com/watch?v=yTmYTe_qgjA 7th Episode youtube.com/watch?v=Nj0Ckn8VhuI 8th Episode youtube.com/watch?v=fmPIn6MfKw0
i did the same thing….wish i had the whole grow info before i hurried into my first grow…..the tents with shipping tape is best…wind is brutal on tent…..Just fry up the worms they are full of thc…lol…you guys inspire me….i am disabled and this grow snapped me out of my depression and got me in the garden…i even started eating salad…plus 4 lbs of pure organic bud to smoke….all over 25% thc tested….zittlez gelato and mimosa orange x punch
TD has a good growing technique, however i’ve been growing for about 12 years and I don’t know of one person that harvest his or her plants with 40 percent clear thricomes, not one! I guess he perfers a speedy, jittery high. everyone i know or have watched grow and or harvest articles let thier thricomes go completely cloudy and to do that you will end up with about 10 percent amber. alot of growers will go 30 percent amber for a more balanced effect. also when you harvest at 40 percent clear you are really keeping your plants from reaching its full weight potential, cannabis plants really bulk up and put on the weight in the last two weeks before harvest. I really think its just his preference to have a jittery high which most cannabis consumers do not like. Nice grow non the less.
TD, I have a question for you, for next season. Any chance we can encourage you to do a test plant for season? I would like to see, what would happen if you continue weekly compost teas deep into flower. I would like to see some boogie brix mixed into the tea. Let’s see what the boogie products can do. Maybe a incredible bulk! 🎉
Jump to the following parts of this episode: 00:22 Tent City- Keep Your Plants Dry 01:39 How to Make Tents for Your Plants 02:58 Open on the Bottom 03:22 Plastic Bottle Ant Trap 04:06 Vanilla Cream Pie Update 06:38 When to Harvest Your Plants 09:04 The New Update 09:50 Use these Clearances on Your Tents 11:42 White Runtz Update 13:17 Cow Milk Secret 14:17 Glookies Update 16:40 Worm Damage + Water is Bad 18:15 Stoopid Fruits Update 20:52 Vanilla Cream Pie in 9-Foot Hole 24:12 How have you been caring for your plants over the last month 25:16 Why did your plants come out better this year? 26:02 Over 100 Gallons of cow milk fertilizer 26:27 When did you put up the tents? 27:24 When will you take off the tents? 27:50 Should you cover your plants or not?
John, thanks for another great article and series. I asked last year, and I’ll ask again, is there any way you can do a article on TD harvesting his girls and how he stores it. For those of us that are new to this it would be helpful. Maybe you can plan with TD for next year’s series to include a article on the harvest. Thanks John.
I think this is a good idea in parts of California, but a little farther up north i think it would affect airflow. I had done this my first year on my commercial grow. Half of it was under carports with open ends, the others were under longer hoops with the plastic draped about half way down like that. The ones that i draped down all got hit pretty bad with rot and i lost maybe 10% off of each plant. The ones under the car ports i maybe lost 1%. Its probably fine being small individual tents, but just make sure there is airflow if your in a wetter climate and going to try something like this! The last 4 years i let them be at natures disposal and averaged less than 1% – 3% loss due to some onset of budrot.
This series was my how to …….I’m a first time grower and I did pretty good. I used Boogie brew, pure protein and boogie brew hardener later and Dr. Zymes to keep worms and mold at bay during pre flower and flowering and it worked out pretty good. I grew Barney’s and DNA genetics and by far these two brands were the best with Kosher Kush being the best but not quite as big of a plant. The Wedding cake and Kosher Kush were the best plants. I’d love to see more on curing. Thanks for the series and TC cooperation and knowledge 😀👍
I grow in colorado at 7000 feet and most years I have to harvest my plants at the end of September, the years the weather let me go until the middle of October my yields and overall taste and smells of the buds was much better. I guess that;s why i stand by my earlier comment about TD;s preference to have a speedy, jittery high, because he could easily let his plants go for full month longer. thats one of the great benefits of living in California and why they say california produces the highest quality cannabis because they can let their plants reach their full potential.
Ok, Ic what he meant now. He meant if he didn’t cover the plant’s he would have to shake each plant off by hand. Wich sure it could knock some trichs off (maybe) but I can tell you rn it would be extremely minute. Trichs don’t just fall off when the plant is still alive and fresh. Now, if it was all dried out on the stalk and you started shaking it then yeah you would be asking to lose a ton of trichs, but not when it’s alive…..