Methods For Maintaining A Cherry Tomato Plant?

Cherry tomatoes are bite-sized tomatoes that grow quickly, ripen early, and are good for you. They are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 11, growing as a summer crop in cooler areas. To care for cherry tomatoes, start seeds indoors or purchase seedlings about four weeks before planting.

Cherry tomatoes are easy to grow and can be a rewarding introduction to gardening. To ensure the plants thrive all season, drill holes around the bottom edge and center bottom of the container to drain excess water. Choose varieties for containers or the garden, and give indeterminate varieties some support.

Tomatoes need at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day, with the soil being slightly acidic, loose, and well-drained. Cherry tomato plants should be planted after the last frost date and when temperatures consistently above 60 degrees during the day. They need full, direct sun for at least six to eight hours per day, about an inch of water a week to grow and produce fruit.

To grow tomatoes, choose a location where the plant will get at least eight hours of direct sun each day. For best fruiting, pick a location where the plant will get at least eight hours of direct sun each day. As you plan your garden, keep in mind that tomatoes are happiest in well-draining soil with a pH balance of 6.2 to 6.5, and they require four to five weeks of sunlight per year.


📹 How to Prune Cherry Tomatoes: Maximum Yield for Your Effort

Ask ten tomato growers how they prune their plants and you’ll get 10 different answers. Minimum. Throw cherry tomatoes into the …


What conditions do cherry tomatoes grow best in?

To ensure tomato plants thrive, add garden compost before planting and choose a warm, sunniest spot sheltered from wind. Space plants 45-60cm apart, depending on their size. Avoid growing tomatoes in the same bed consecutively to prevent soil build-up. Ring culture in a greenhouse border is a suitable method. Regularly water tomato plants to maintain soil or compost moisture, as fluctuating moisture levels can cause fruit problems like splitting or blossom end rot. Container plants may need daily watering in hot weather. Curling leaves may indicate a lack of water.

Can cherry tomatoes get too much sun?
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Can cherry tomatoes get too much sun?

Sunscald is a condition where tomatoes are exposed to direct sunlight without any protection, similar to sunburn on humans. It occurs when tomatoes are exposed to extreme heat coupled with direct sunlight, causing them to develop white or brown spots on their leaves and blotchy spots on their fruits. Over-pruning can also increase the risk of sunscald, as tomatoes often appear in bunches exposed to direct sunlight.

Jennifer McDonald, a certified organic garden specialist and co-founder of Garden Girls, explains that sunscald can be caused by over-pruning, which can lead to the loss of natural shade and the umbrella effect. It is important to consider the natural shade provided by the foliage before over-pruning tomato plants.

What is the best fertilizer for cherry tomatoes?

To fertilize tomato seedlings, choose a fertilizer with a high middle number, representing phosphorus, in the N-P-K analysis. Common fertilizer analysis options include 8-32-16 and 12-24-12. Mix the fertilizer with water according to package directions. Avoid excessive fertilizer application or use at once, as it can damage plants and harm the environment. Follow package directions for application rate and frequency. Tomatoes may need additional nutrients as they grow, such as slow and spindly growth, or leaves with a blue-green tint and poor growth.

Why is my cherry tomato plant dying?
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Why is my cherry tomato plant dying?

Tomato plants can wilt and die suddenly due to various factors, including lack of water, fungal wilt diseases, tomato spotted wilt virus, walnut toxicity, and stalk borers. Tomato plants require approximately 1 inch of water per week, and a thorough watering once a week during hot, dry weather is sufficient. If an overhead sprinkler is used, water the plants in the morning to reduce foliar disease problems.

Fungal wilt diseases, such as Verticillium and Fusarium wilt, can cause plants to overwinter as fungal spores in garden soil or on infected plant debris. These spores enter the tomato plant through the roots, blocking water and nutrient movement, leading to yellowing and wilting.

Plants can be infected at any stage of growth, with young plants wilting and dying soon after planting. Older plants show symptoms when leaves wilt during the day and recover at night, eventually becoming permanently wilted and dying. Stems of infected plants show brown streaking within the vascular tissues just under the green outer tissue.

There is no cure for fungal wilt diseases, so infected plants should be removed and discarded, but not placed in the compost pile.

How do you keep cherry tomatoes good?

To preserve tomatoes, store them vine/stem side down to prevent squishing or bruises. Once ripe, store them in the refrigerator and bring them back to room temperature before serving. For cherry tomatoes, keep them on the counter, but if they are very ripe or warm, move them into the fridge. Allow them to come to room temperature before freezing. To speed up the ripening process, store them in a paper bag with an apple. Learn easy techniques to preserve seasonal tomato bounty.

How to grow the best cherry tomatoes?
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How to grow the best cherry tomatoes?

Cherry tomato plants are the first type of tomato to ripen in summer gardens and one of the last to produce when frost threatens. They are easy to enjoy fresh or use in flavorful recipes. To grow cherry tomatoes, pick award-winning hybrids, such as the red ‘Valentine’, orange ‘Sungold’, and dusty plum ‘Purple Bumble Bee’. These varieties have received awards for their flavor, disease-resistance, ease of growing, and productivity. Some of the All-America Selections winners include ‘Crokini’, ‘Jolly’, ‘Purple Zebra’, and ‘Valentine’.

‘Crokini’ has a sweet round fruit with a firm texture, excellent disease resistance, and is suitable for the Southeast. ‘Jolly’ produces clusters of a dozen or more round, red fruit, and is disease-resistant and productive. ‘Purple Zebra’ is a green and deep mahogany striped tomato with a complex flavor and firm texture. ‘Valentine’ has oblong, deep red fruit with a sweet taste and resistance to splitting.

How many cherry tomatoes do you get from one plant?
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How many cherry tomatoes do you get from one plant?

Tomatoes are a popular homegrown vegetable, with a single plant producing between 10 and 12 pounds. Roma tomato plants can produce up to 200 tomatoes in a single season, while cherry tomato plants can produce up to 100. The number of tomatoes depends on the plant’s care and growth conditions. Tomatoes thrive in warm temperatures, so planting them during fall decorating may not yield many. Bell peppers can produce five to 10 large peppers per plant, depending on their maintenance and growing conditions.

A healthy mix of bell pepper plants is recommended. Zucchini, a plant that requires only one plant, can produce three to ten pounds of produce, depending on its care. These plants are essential for a healthy and vibrant garden.

How often do you feed cherry tomatoes?

The application of water-soluble fertilizer is a more straightforward process, particularly when working with containers of tomatoes. A solution of one tablespoon (15ml) per gallon (4L) should be prepared and applied every one to two weeks throughout the season using a watering can. For horticultural applications, a ratio of two tablespoons (30ml) per gallon (4L) is recommended. It is advisable to refrain from applying the fertilizer during periods of high temperatures or low humidity. A volume of 4 L is sufficient to cover approximately 4 square feet of garden area or ten 8-inch pots.

Do cherry tomatoes need cages?
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Do cherry tomatoes need cages?

Growing cherry tomatoes requires a large cage for optimal results, but if space is limited, there are still options. The author’s collection includes various shapes, sizes, and colors, but they are particularly fond of cherry tomatoes. Growing cherry tomatoes is similar to growing big tomatoes, but it is important to choose the right variety for your soil, climate, and taste buds.

Despite being small in size, cherry tomatoes have robust and varied flavors that can hold their good taste even after the end of the season. With the right care and varietal choice, you can enjoy great tomatoes all season long, even in a smaller package than expected.

The cherry-tomato season begins in early spring when seeds are started. Start seeds in an unheated greenhouse or indoors under grow lights for best germination. Wait until seedlings are about 4 inches tall before hardening off and transplanting them into the garden. Don’t try to get all plants outside too early in spring; wait until two weeks after the last spring frost, when the soil is warmer and cool spells are fewer or no longer occur. Tomatoes planted too early will struggle to grow in cool soil and weather, succumbing to blight later on.

Soil should be amended with composted poultry manure several months prior to transplanting. Granular synthetic fertilizers don’t work as well at giving plants a needed nutrient boost. Plant seedlings in holes poked through black agricultural plastic for weed and disease control. Organic mulches don’t limit weeds or splashing as well as black plastic.

How to protect tomatoes from sun?
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How to protect tomatoes from sun?

To provide afternoon shade for your plants, use shade cloth that blocks more than 50 percent of sunlight. Attach the cloth to a frame along the southwest side of your beds to protect them and keep them easy to harvest. This can reduce ambient temperatures by 10 degrees. Remove the shade cloth when temperatures drop below 95 degrees to allow the plants to get their needed sun.

Add 2-3 inches of organic mulch, such as rice straw, wood chips, dried grass clippings, or other organic material, to reduce soil temperature and slow down moisture evaporation. Studies have shown that adequate mulching can reduce soil moisture loss by up to 70 percent.

Be cautious with watering your plants as temperatures rise above 90 degrees. Use a moisture meter or finger probe to check for moisture in the soil, checking multiple times during the hottest days. Keeping the soil moist can help reduce fruit cracking and blossom drop. When tomatoes appear wilted, use a moisture meter to prevent overwatering.


📹 Grow Cherry Tomatoes in a Container

Cherry tomatoes differ from other tomatoes and those differences have to be taken into account. I had a lot of viewers taking my …


Methods For Maintaining A Cherry Tomato Plant
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24 comments

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  • Of all the “experts” out there doing articles, you are my “go-to” for my various issues. I used to garden 1,000+ square feet on our farm. Over 35 years of learning what works (and what doesn’t), I got good at producing bushels of heirloom and hybrid vegetables nearly every year from good ol’ farm dirt and home-made compost. Now I’m limited to “gardening” in plant pots on a deck, having moved to a suburban condo with a restrictive HOA. (Age-related health decline). I now have to buy compost, manure, and soil amendments. I’ve found your methods and tips to be the most reasonable, reliable, and functional from seed starting to keeping my “babies” healthy and productive even though I’m forced to grow in plant bags. Your knowledge of horticulture and article production skills are the best I’ve found on YouTube. Thank you for the effort you obviously put into high-value and entertaining presentations. Subscribed long ago. -Old guy in S. Central Michigan.

  • A tomato article!!! YAY!!! I’m in NY and I have spring fever so bad but it’s still cold here. I’m just getting ready to start my tomatoes and peppers in the house. Last year I had a lone cherry tomato that I didn’t have room for so I stuck it in my flower bed in amongst the marigolds. Holy cow…it was the biggest, bushiest tomato I’ve ever seen with hundreds of fruits. No disease whatsoever and it produced until the frost. Guess my flower bed is getting another tomato this year. 😆🍅

  • In addition to a big tomato cage, I like to use a wooden or bamboo stake/pole in the center of potted cherry tomato plants too. Then I spiral the tomato plant around the central stake as it grows, and this helps it withstand strong wind from any direction, as well as helps the plant stay a bit shorter (the spiral is a longer path than straight up) so that it doesn’t get too top heavy by being excessively tall and doesn’t extend too far above the top of the tomato cage.

  • Its still cold here in Ireland and currently a NE wind blowing. But temprature is slowly rising; I had 20 C, about 68 F in my poly growing tunnel during the week, so I will be getting some seeds started soon. It might seem a late start but we could have snow turn up out of the blue. We call March the month of many weathers. I saved some Cherrys from last year as they were great and kept well. I intend to grow more tomatoes in my raised beds this year. I use Egg Shells in the ground / pots for calcium. I wash the shells and dry them over the winter and when I have enough, I grind them to a reasonable size in an old coffee grinder. I sprinkle them around lettuce and it does seem to keep slugs away. They have a very slight citrusy scent which may help. Cinnamon mixed with potting compost helps keep fungus at bay and helps damping off. It also deters quite a few harmful insects too.

  • egg shells ground in a coffee grinder is a great additive to tomato plants. i wash all the shells and dry them. then crush them by hand to small chips. then grind them to a fine powder. i add this to my compost and extra for tomatoes. for soil, i use my aged wood chips which hold moisture and nutrients very well. cheers 🙂

  • Your older articles are what I watched for growing tomatoes in containers. I am in the SF Bay Area (East Bay) and own a corner lot home. We are still building out the front and side yards but also didn’t want all areas to be permanent garden space so containers were a great option! I found that 15 gallon containers are ideal for cherry to medium sized tomato varieties and 20+ gallons for larger tomatoes. We are investing in drip this year because watering is needed almost daily once it’s hotter outside and the plants are large. For support, We bought a couple rolls of coated wire fencing and 5-7′ stakes to make cages for the small to medium tomato varieties. For larger tomatoes, we used the wire fencing material and t-posts to make a fence trellis for the larger varieties. The bottom of the wire fencing is just a few inches above the grow bags and we used stretchy elastic, twine, or garden Velcro strips to attach the plant to the trellis fence.

  • I live in North Louisiana and our summers have lots of days over 100 degrees and very humid. When I used a black self-watering container for my tomato, I wrapped it in tinfoil to help keep the heat off and the pot retained its moisture better. I was going crazy having to water it twice a day until I did that. I know it’s unconventional but it worked! I now have raised beds but I still love that container for other plants

  • Congrats on 1 million. I want to thank you for all the great articles. I have gone from being a terrible gardener to giving away tomatoes and other vegetables to friends and family. You are a great inspiration for all of us who are learning to garden. I even raised my tomatoes from seed this year. Keep up the good fight.

  • Always appreciate the tomato articles. We grow in pots since our soil is pretty lousy and the growing season pretty short. I know you have mentioned this before, but growing them in bags? Is there a link to a article on that subject? We will not plant until later in May because of our last frost date, but I would like to know if folks have found success in growing cherry tomatoes or any other kind for that matter in bags. Thanks as always and congrats on the 1 million +!!

  • I grew cherry tomatoes in a dark grow bag 2 years ago; they were so good! Unfortunately, I got the starter plant at a big box store and didn’t keep the tag to know what kind it was! 😢 I do know that what I bought last year was not as good. Oh, and I didn’t know you were supposed to spread out the legs on those tomato cages! 🤯

  • 2 Tips: 1) There are many Dwarf Tomato varieties you can grow easily in pots that won’t get as crazy big as their inrderminate cousins and stay quite compact between 3-4 Ft tall. For example Eagle Smiley, Johnson’s Cherry & Moby’s Cherry. 2) I use the double 5 Gallon Bucket method. This creates a water reservoir of 2-3 inches at the bottom of the pot, which helps ensure consistant watering all season and especially through the hottest days of summer. Search on YouTube, Khang Starr’s website has the most comprehensive article on it.

  • I’ve got honeycomb cherry tomato seeds I’m trying this year. It’s supposed to be sweeter than sun gold. It’s a burpee release so if you can’t find plants you can get seeds in the burpee section of seed racks. I’ve never seen the plants here but I have seen a few YouTubers say how great they are so I thought I’d try it.

  • I’ve been experimenting with hydroponics, and “accidentally” got more tomato starts than I needed. I’m trying to plan what to do with them all, and wondering if you have ever done this exact pot set up inside, in a south facing window? I don’t think you mentioned this, but one of the benefits of growing in a pot is being able to move the plant if it’s an unseasonably hot/sunny summer. Lots of people in KS had trouble summer before last because everything got scorched. I have been experimenting with tenting and better watering systems and it seems to be helping. Love your articles, thanks sharing your knowledge!

  • Hi Brian, about the purple sweet potato you got. It is really tasty, but it is important to pick the tubers of a reasonable size, not too fat because they are made with tough fibers In addition, regarding the container for planting vegetables and plants in general in a hot and dry area, it is highly recommended to make drainage holes on the side of the container up to 5 cm high to create an inner bottom that will return water and minerals into the plant. This saves bags in the long run. Just wait for the water at the bottom to absorb back. If the container is already perforated., you can place inside a bottom that you buy or a piece of nylon that is cut to the right size

  • Hey, first I wanted to say how much I enjoy and appreciate your articles, I have learned so much. I started my cherry tomato seedlings using your solo cup method, I am so excited about the success. Here is my issue, I am located in Georgia, our weather is so unpredictable right now, for example, today it is 81 with a system coming through tonight, rest of the week highs in low 60s and lows down to 39. I have a few plants that are ready to be hardened and not sure what to do with this weather. Do I leave them inside under lamp and wait for consistent conditions. Thank you so much!

  • I’m trying to grow blueberries (2 types of species) and I want to avoid chemical fertilizers what would you recommend me to use? And also for my 2 other indoor trees- elephant ears and Red Leaf Abyssinian Banana Tree just to keep them healthy/green the trees I was told will stay at a 4ft height. (I emailed you my questions too.) so glad I came across your YouTube!

  • Question Hi Brian, I’m up here in 7b Southern Ontario, Canada. I really appreciate all your articles. I love your new place and love all your garden hacks. I’ve learned so much from you. I’m just a renter but have an east back yard and west front yard, that gets full sun after 12 noon. I have several fabric bags and a 4×10 planter in the front yard. I’m adding another 4×6 in the front yard. Quick question, will tomato plants work better in 10-gallon buckets, fabric bags, or in a raised garden bed set over a gravel driveway?

  • I will be growing indeterminate cherry tomatoes for the first time this year directly in the soil. I’ve started my seeds inside. When I transplant how much space is needed between them? I plan on using two cages one right side up one upside down like you showed in a previous article. One row, only a few plants.

  • Based on the pet bedding, and the thing about rabbit manure, what are your thoughts about using (lightly) used pet bedding from either rabbits or gerbils or something? As you water, the chips/bedding would release into the soil… but I’m not sure about if it would be the right nutrients, and wondering about bacteria or diseases. Conversely, what are your thoughts about soaking the pet bedding in a mixture of the watered down fertilizer you use every couple of weeks. Two ways I can think of. One, wet it, let it drain in like a colander, and then place it. The second, soak it then spread it out and let it dry in the sun, then use as mulch and when you water it should release the fertilizer gradually each day, right??

  • I would probably jam 2 cherry tomatoes into that pot. I have a 26 litre pot with a water reservoir and I always put two tall growing cherry tomatoes there. My saviour was when I realised I can tie a rope to the balcony ceiling to prevent those from falling down. I also invested in a metal spiral support that can carry enough of the growth mass. Every year the tomatoes reach the ceiling and they also try to escape between the balcony windows into freedom😅 I think my south facing glassed balcony is as close to a greenhouse as is gets.

  • I’ve been watering all my plants in grow bags with the Masterblend formula at a 12-6-12 gram ratio (Approximately 2.4 EC) per 5 gallons (12 G Masterblend, 6 G Epson Salt, 12 G Calcium Nitrate). Everything loves it and happy and healthy. I do have a small $2 Walmart Oil Change pan under each grow bag to catch excess water and give them about a half a gallon every other day. They benefit from top watering and bottom watering at the same time. No other soil amendment – It’s my poor man’s hydroponic system with soil 🙂

  • Please help. It is planting time here. You just posted this article so I am hopeful to catch you for a response (about planting tomatoes). I can’t find your older article. But I CONFUSED MYSELF! I am growing determinate tomatoes in a container. I have gypsum, epsom salt, bone & blood meal, chicken manure Neptune’s Harvest fruit and veg and rock phosphate. What products do I use? Or can I use all of them mixed together at planting time?

  • About the “epsom salt is a salt, so not too much” comment, well technically yes but not in the bad way that such a comment will make people think. A “salt” just refers to the way to elements are bonded (a non-covalent crystal). Epsom Salt is just hydrated MgSO4 (magnesium sulfate), and does not contain either sodium or chloride so it has no chemical resemblance to table salt. Also the sulfate is not so bad in tomato soil either, because that could perhaps increase acitidy a little, and I think tomatoes like slightly acidic soil.

  • I got to ask anyone else having problems with cheery tomatos growing, the jelly bean and the red cherry large fruited my fav but there are very fincky not like there cousin beef master and so on? Very small steams and leaves so the smallest bump they flop over ugh am I alone with this problem I am on a fixed income so going out and buying some kind of super soil is out of the qustion has to be done on the cheap thanks cheers.