Is Construction Grade Plastic Ok For A Greenhouse?

Greenhouse plastic is a more durable and flexible material than regular plastic, as it is knitted instead of formed into sheets. It is ideal for greenhouses due to its resistance to tearing and weathering. Different types of greenhouse plastic have different constructions, with some having more or less layers and additives like anti-condensate and anti-dust. Polyethylene plastic is the most common material used to cover a greenhouse, being inexpensive, flexible, and lasting up to four years.

Greenhouse-grade plastic is more durable and is treated with UV stabilizers, allowing it to withstand outdoor applications and weathering. It is warranted for four years or more and costs about twice as much as co-poly. The best overall choice for greenhouse plastic is Grower’s Solution 6-Mil Greenhouse Clear Plastic Film, Frost King 6-Mil Packaged Polyethylene Sheeting, and Arc Direct 14-Mil Heavy-Duty.

However, plastic sheeting used in construction should not be used for greenhouse applications due to its lack of UV stability. This means that it will break down quickly if exposed to sunlight and wind. To ensure the longevity of your greenhouse plants, it is crucial to choose plastic sheeting made from virgin resin.

In summary, greenhouse plastic is a more durable and flexible material that is ideal for greenhouses. It is important to avoid construction grade materials with less strength and opt for high-quality plastic sheeting made from virgin resin. By choosing the right material for your greenhouse, you can ensure the longevity of your plants and protect them from the harsh elements of the environment.


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Top 5 materials used to cover greenhouses today. Some Youtuber’s who made greenhouses: @Bigelowbrook …


How long will 6 mil plastic last in the sun?

6 mil plastic/poly sheeting, introduced in the 1960s, is an economical and durable option for hoop house greenhouses. It can survive the sun for up to 3 years and is still used today by budget-conscious growers. However, it is susceptible to damage from bad weather and strong sun, and may require labor and time to recover every 3-4 years or sooner if it tears.

Twin-wall polycarbonate, also known as twin-wall plastic, is an extruded polymer product that is impact resistant, thermally insulative, attractive, and does not yellow. It is easy to install but can be easily damaged from wind, storms, and blizzards. It is also prone to attracting dust and dirt, reducing the amount of light entering the greenhouse. Cleaning polycarbonate is essential to prevent algae growth and condensation.

Glass greenhouses are a beautiful option with great light transmission and longevity, but they lack thermal efficiency and may burn some plants. They are great unless broken from hail or other objects, but the labor-intensive installation and handling can be labor-intensive. Glass may not be the best choice for pure functionality if the goal is pure functionality.

Is 6 mil plastic good for a greenhouse?
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Is 6 mil plastic good for a greenhouse?

The best greenhouse film depends on several factors, including price, energy considerations, UV lifespan, brute strength, and labor for replacing the coverings. For a low-cost film, 6 mil plastic films are the best option due to their relatively low initial investment. However, these films may not last very long and may not come with much guarantee. Additionally, the cost of heating and cooling is the second biggest expense, and the film should offer the best R-value. Solawrap, a popular plastic film in Europe, offers a 10 year full warranty, making it a top choice for its durability.

When it comes to repairing the covering, SolaWrap is the best option due to its built-in strips design, allowing for only 4′, 5′, or 6″ sections to be replaced. This makes it a cost-effective option for those who need to repair the entire structure. Overall, the best greenhouse film depends on various factors and can be found by comparing different options.

Can I use 4 mil plastic for a greenhouse?
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Can I use 4 mil plastic for a greenhouse?

4 mil poly plastic is a lightweight, cost-effective option for greenhouse coverings, offering basic protection and light transmission. It is suitable for temporary or seasonal greenhouses, but may require frequent replacements. 6 mil poly plastic is a commonly used material, providing better durability and strength compared to 4 mil poly plastic. It offers decent protection against weather elements, UV rays, and light transmission. However, its ability to tolerate wind, hail, and heavy snow loads can vary depending on the quality of the plastic, greenhouse structure, and prevailing conditions.

10 mil poly plastic is a thicker option, providing better resistance against punctures, tears, and other potential damage. It can withstand more challenging weather conditions, including higher wind speeds and heavier snow loads, but may slightly reduce light transmission compared to thinner options.

Can you use construction plastic for a greenhouse?

6 mil contractor plastic cannot replace greenhouse plastic due to its UV stability, which can quickly break down in sunlight and wind. Other options include high tunnels, all high tunnels, peaked high tunnels, mobile high tunnels, round hoop houses, caterpillar tunnels, backyard greenhouses, greenhouse covers, polycarbonate, polycarbonate, shade cloth bulk, shade cloth finished edges + grommets, sidewall components, auto roller motors, and hardware.

Is opaque plastic ok for a greenhouse?

White greenhouse plastic sheeting is recommended for plants that will live their entire life within the greenhouse, as it ensures evenly distributed sunlight. Translucent or white greenhouse covers are ideal for this purpose. Opt for opaque covers if clear or opaque is available for your specific plants. Clear greenhouse covers are the top recommended to support your growing season and provide a consistent light distribution throughout the greenhouse.

What is the difference between greenhouse plastic and regular plastic?

Greenhouse plastic sheeting is a more durable and UV stabilized material compared to regular plastic sheeting, which is prone to shredding when exposed to the sun. It is more expensive than regular plastic sheeting but can be used over multiple seasons, saving more over time. Growers can choose between clear or black/white greenhouse plastic sheeting depending on their needs. Clear plastic is beneficial for areas needing more sunlight, as it diffuses light and reduces the risk of sun damage. White greenhouses or light deprivation covers can help control temperature and light. Depending on the specific needs of the growing area, a specific type of plastic sheeting may be suitable.

Can you use any plastic sheeting for greenhouse?

UV resistance is crucial for the longevity of greenhouse covers, as it prevents plastic sheeting from degrading due to deteriorating sun rays. Without adequate UV resistance, plastic sheeting can deteriorate rapidly, leading to cracks, brittleness, and reduced effectiveness in maintaining the ideal greenhouse environment. It also protects crops from harmful rays that can cause yellowing, abnormal growth, and death. The labor to replace sheeting due to early failure can offset the cost of purchasing a higher-quality product with UV resistance.

Is 4mm polycarbonate OK for greenhouse?

4mm polycarbonate sheets, available in clear, are optimal for use in greenhouses, cold frames, and shed windows as a replacement for glass and for allowing light while providing a slight degree of obscurity.

How long will 6 mil poly last on a greenhouse?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

How long will 6 mil poly last on a greenhouse?

Our 4 year 6 mil Clear Greenhouse Plastic is a durable and affordable greenhouse cover that is commonly used for new greenhouses or re-covering old ones. It offers a long-lasting cover of over four years at an affordable price. The product is cut-to-order, with a current lead time of approximately 14 business days. If you need your cover quickly, check out our pre-cut and ready-to-ship 6 mil covers, which ship out in 1 to 3 business days if in-stock.

Larger sized poly rolls will be shipped via LTL motor-freight, while larger rolls will be shipped on a pallet. The rough weight of this greenhouse plastic is. 0302 lbs per square ft., and customers should plan accordingly for unloading and moving the plastic rolls once delivered. LTL freight shipping rates do not include liftgate services, but straps can be cut and the plastic can be removed easily with two people. If customers request liftgate services, they will be billed for the cost (approximately $75. 00 depending on the shipping vendor).

What kind of plastic to use for a greenhouse?

Polyethylene (PE) is a widely used greenhouse plastic due to its competitive price and excellent mechanical properties. It is easily incorporated with additives to improve its characteristics. PE is classified based on density, with low-density being the most common. Medium-density plastic is used in small tunnels and mulch, while high-density plastic is used for pipes, bottles, caps, containers, irrigation, and drainage parts. Low-density polyethylene is the most commonly used in agriculture, offering four-year durability and resistance to sulphur. It can be yellow or colorless.

Is greenhouse plastic different than regular plastic?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Is greenhouse plastic different than regular plastic?

Greenhouse plastic sheeting is a more durable and UV stabilized material compared to regular plastic sheeting, which is prone to shredding when exposed to the sun. It is more expensive than regular plastic sheeting but can be used over multiple seasons, saving more over time. Growers can choose between clear or black/white greenhouse plastic sheeting depending on their needs. Clear plastic is beneficial for areas needing more sunlight, as it diffuses light and reduces the risk of sun damage. White greenhouses or light deprivation covers can help control temperature and light. Depending on the specific needs of the growing area, a specific type of plastic sheeting may be suitable.


📹 Ten things you must do if you get a polycarbonate greenhouse. This advise is bourn of experience.

I give you this advise now bourn of experience and wish someone had given it to me before I built my Polycarbonate greenhouse.


Is Construction Grade Plastic OK For A Greenhouse?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

21 comments

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  • I have a palram polycarbonate greenhouse and have bolted mine to concrete flags and Ive siliconed every single joint inside and out..The recent gale force winds didnt effect it at all…except for the noise of the panels flexing. I’m 100% confident that without the silicone most of the panels would’ve blown out.

  • I erected my polycarbonate-glazed 8×6 greenhouse, all on my own, 22 years ago, and I have never lost a single panel due to wind. The manufacturer sent out standard glass glazing clips with the kit, realised their mistake, then sent me the plastic quadrant clips it required. I saw that these would not do the job on their own, so at the top and bottom of each panel, I drilled through both the frame and the glazing sheets, then secured them together with standard greenhouse nuts and bolts. Prior to assembly, I secured the bottom edge through heavy tent pegs into a cubic foot of concrete at each corner. I was advised by an old lag to cover the open ends of each sheet of twinwall polycarb with aluminium tape. This stops water, then algae from getting in. If windy weather is at all likely, I remove the pin from the autovent window opener, and wire the window shut with gardening wire. The sliding door is locked shut by a large screw pushed through a hole drilled in the frame beside the closed door. As polycarb doesn’t like the standard whitewash shading stuff, I hang netting over the south-facing side of the roof to provide shade in the height of summer. After 5 years, the glazing was starting to whiten, so I bought extra panels to replace the roof ones on the south side, They are still in the shed after all this time, waiting to be used if the panels ever shatter. Happy growing!

  • Good morning, Jim! ☀️ I bought a poly carbonate cold frame a year ago. There was no octopus for hire at the time that I put it together, but I agree that I wish there had been. It took me two days to put it together in my garage before moving it out. It lasted one season before the Oklahoma wind ripped it out of the ground where I had buried it and wrapped it around a tree.

  • I can certainly relate to this! My made in China model took me several weeks to assemble, including 4 trips back to the retailer to pick up missing parts or return wrong parts. I’m in Canada, so each trip was approx 100 miles. First winter storm, both doors blew off and several panels ended up in the neighbour’s yard. Since then we have covered it in the winter with a heavy tarp tied down with strong ropes.All 4 roof hatches no longer work and leak badly on a rainy day. Other than that, everything works fine!

  • On my 2nd greehouse ( a tree took out the 1st on after 4 years) Great advice for my second build. I TRIPLE the W clips, does the job. I am going to caulk the ends of the panel’s this time to stop water and icky earwigs from going in the website’s of the panels. I have done 90% of the build myself (65 year old lady)😊. Although wind wasn’t much of a problem, i am going to put your reinforcement strips along as well. Being in Michigan, i also put a clear huge tarp over the entire structure and heat it when necessary in March each year to get a BIG headstart on the growing season. CHEERS TO ALL❤

  • We put up our Palram Snap-n-Grow 6×8 Greenhouse last summer and it lasted well through the fall, then in January we had a storm with 65 mph gusts. Fortunately the greenhouse was in our fenced off garden, which is also in a chain link fenced off yard. The greenhouse flipped upside down, right over the garden fence but stayed within the backyard fence. Once the weather calmed down and we had a slight warm spell, we turned it upright and secured it with webbing (like car seat belts) from one side, over the top, to the other side and wrapped the ends around huge and heavy long pieces of granite and we even piled some wall stone on top of those to be sure. It hasn’t budged since, but we’ll see with this next winter!

  • I think I had every problem you mentioned when building my first polycarbonate greenhouse about 5 years ago. I did it on my own…Doh!, so only had it half finished when I went to bed, so I had to pick the pieces up in the morning. I siliconed all the panels inside and out and haven’t lost a panel. What has happened though, and I wonder if any of your viewers has had this, is that literally hundreds of small holes have appeared on the outer layer. I haven’t a clue what caused it and it’s only on the roof panels. I’m changing them out for glass next week.

  • I landed on this article when i was searching about greenhouses, and especially due to many reviews complaining about their polycarbonate greenhouses blowing away in the wind. I won’t buy one unless I can hugely reinforce every part of it. However, a simple 8ft x 10ft greenhouse comes in many varieties and qualities so it is very hard to determine what one is best.

  • This was good to see..we have bought one of these but its still in its box. Must get it together soon as its January already. Apart from anchoring it down, i wonder if a bungee cord set up to fasten the thing to the fence would help also? Ours is going in a corner that has fence on 2 sides….we might bungee the frame to the fence. We had a cheap platic greenhouse there and the wind ripped the plastic off the bottom of it. Hopefully this will be worth it! I just want to grow strawberries without all the critters getting them all!!!!

  • Great Advice, also stake her down good, I use 1.5 feet or 45 cm lengths of rebar w/ a nut welded to top and a fender washer. Drive them in at opposing angles if possible instead of straight down. Love the tip on watering can, never realized that was what it was for Haha ! Learn something new everyday !

  • I cannot shut my window in sunshine, it just gets too hot, as lon as it is on the catch ok. I have lost my window a couple of times, even when it is breezy. I put my polycarbonate gr on a concrete base, that has a least stopped the whole thing from blowing away. The base is starting to rust after nearly twenty years so may have to consider buying a new one soon. Poly is great if there is danger from balls of any sort, but toughened glass probably better still. I think the poly that I have with a double wall probably provides some insulation. Nice to see we are not the only ones to be making repairs at odd times. It is also permanently taped in some places. All the best for the year ahead.

  • Hi Jim, Hope you had an enjoyable safe Christmas. I can appreciate the article, I have built 2 greenhouses 8ft x 6ft and 12ft 6in x 10ft and not only should one build in calm dry weather but READ the instructions. eventually, they were both built but I am delighted with the results, more importantly, I still have them. Thanks for your article Jim Gordon, Halifax

  • 😂 on water can Thank you for the foresight. Lock nut Lock washers Cattle panel on the outside bottom. 5′ high. Can place rail on the inside/ superstrut or metal support with grommets for point of contact (poc with +/- matching on the outside with rubber poc). You have the basic structure build upon it. We did have questions on the wind effects. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Former QA (Quality Assurance)

  • So glad I’ve seen your article!! I live on Corfu and am just starting to build a new greenhouse with poly carbonate in mind, I am now re thinking! My old greenhouse was built by my dad and myself and we used anglenirons, plenty of bolts, wood andfibreglass for covering and it has lasted almost 30 years. I live in a very windy area so it has to be strong, my nephew wants to use glass but I am dubious and am re thinking fibre glass yet again, the problem is getting hold of it out here!! An ongoing problem!! Thanks for your tips!

  • If you know anyone who is planning to purchase or build a greenhouse this article might just save them from a catastrophe. Hit the Share icon above this text and send them a link to this article on one of your social media platforms. It’s what a good friend would do. If there was a ‘Flimsiest Greenhouse In The World’ competition, mine would be up there with the flimsiest. Ps Now some of my Polycarbonate sheets are disintegrating. Check it out at the end of this updated article: youtu.be/B8GjoJgcRAk

  • Hi thanks for the article im thinking of ordering one now but its a Augarden brand looks exactly the same. i want to build it in my workshop so i can take my time and have no interruptions with wind and weather and do it properly with sealant and brace it a bit more now my question is do you think this could be picked up by 4 people on each corner to move it say 50 meters, 150 ft with out it falling to pieces? Simple yes or no would be appreciated. Thanks

  • I bought an 8×6 at the end of march 2022 and have just got around to build it now in June only there is no build instruction paperwork and I have e-mailed them at Garden Universe but not had a return. I tried to call them but it was a recorded message saying “there’s no-one to take your call, please try later” then the call ends.

  • Muy bien explicado, yo compre otro si no es de la misma marca es muy similar pero de 4,88 x 3,08m con 106 kg. de peso, con la superficie que tiene y el peso me preocupaba mucho la estabilidad frente al viento y la nieve, la altitud donde esta montado esta a 930 m sobre el nivel del mar, con lo cual prácticamente en la totalidad de los inviernos siempre nieva alguna vez, yo también, realice dos articles sobre las medidas que adopte para anclarlo y reforzarlo estructural mente. El invernadero de por sí, es muy bonito pero se realiza una inversión y seria muy lamentable que por inclemencias meteorológicas se viese perjudicado.

  • You greenhoue look’s very flimsy / flexing in the wind. Is the Frame metal or Plastic {Polycarbonate} ? ? ? From my Festival & Market day’s in Retailing, I would use rope over the roof to hold the greenhouse down. This worked extreamly well in some pretty bad wind’s when I was on the Festival circuit with a 24 x 12 Marque with my China & other Breakable’s inside….

  • Unlike the generic brands sold on Amazon direct from China, Harbor Freight sells replacement parts for their greenhouses (parts list linked as a PDF to the product page). Still, however, piecing it back together would be cost prohibitive given how ridiculously overpriced polycarbonate is as a rule. As for storm damage, however, I don’t know if ANYTHING left unprotected outdoors should be expected to fair well. Depending on the size of the hail, it will damage structures of many kinds, including outdoor furniture and even homes and automobiles. Ideally, the location for a greenhouse would be somewhat sheltered. Mine will be situated under a deck (more like a balcony) so if any hail or snow accumulates, the roof won’t take a direct hit.

  • Or…. you could just do the 1 thing you must do, & just build your polycarbonate greenhouse they way it is supposed to be built… & you won’t have those 10 problems. I built a 26′ × 28′ × 14′ polycarbonate GrowSpan greenhouse, with double sliding doors on both ends… & it’s built the way it is suppose to be, & I don’t have problems with heavy wind & rain trying to destroy it.