This guide provides a simple and quick method for changing the water in a freshwater fish tank. It emphasizes the importance of proper preparation to ensure the safety and well-being of your fish. The general rule of thumb is to change the water once per week, as a change in water condition can shock and stress your fish. To change the water, use a siphon and bucket to remove 1/3 – 1/2 of the water, checking the pH level and making necessary adjustments.
A good quality Water Conditioner can be used to disperse the water quickly and mix it in slowly. For weekly changes, siphon out 10-15 of the tank’s water, while for bi-weekly schedules, change about 20. To change the water in a 10-gallon tank, use a mini gravel vac to siphon water from the tank into the bucket. Never remove all the water; only take 50 of it.
To do almost 100 changes using a water hose, bucket, and water vacuum, first remove 50 of the water using the vacuum. It is essential not to clean a lot of the water, as this can cause damage to the fish.
In summary, maintaining a healthy aquarium environment is crucial for the well-being of aquatic pets. To change the water, follow these steps: prepare the new water, prepare the tank, clean it, siphon out old water, vacuum the substrate, and add the new water.
📹 How to Do Faster, Easier, and Cheaper Aquarium Water Changes
Showing you a few pieces of equipment that I use to speed up the partial water changes on my aquariums and waste less water in …
Can a tank cycle in 3 days?
The Nitrogen cycle takes 2-6 weeks to establish, so be patient. Introduce small amounts of fish to your tank to lower ammonia levels, reduce stress on fish, and allow beneficial bacteria to build quickly. Monitor water parameters using the free AQUASPIN Advise tool, testing water every 3-4 days and documenting numerical values. Cloudiness during the process indicates a bacteria bloom, so test the water and perform a 30 water exchange if ammonia or nitrite levels are elevated.
How long does it take to change the water in an aquarium?
In the first 15-30 days after setting up an aquarium, it is important to remove algae from the glass and other objects to ensure the Nitrogen Cycle is established. Introduce algae-eating fish like plecostomus, otocinclus, snails, and other scavengers to control algal blooms. Test water before adding new fish and wait at least a week between additions. Consider buying a plant or decoration with each fish purchase to give newcomers a place to call home.
If fish become established in the aquarium, they may act aggressively towards newcomers, especially among cichlids. Rearranging the aquarium and adding new decorations can help calm this behavior. Perform a 25 water change after 15 days, treating tap water with Aqueon Water Conditioner before adding it to the aquarium. Small frequent water changes are best.
Feed twice daily, as long as ammonia and nitrite levels remain at zero. Feed only what your fish can consume in 2 minutes or less. It’s okay to skip a feeding every few days, as it allows fish to clear their digestive systems. Change cartridge(s) on hang-on filters or mechanical and chemical media (carbon, ammo-chips, etc.) after the first 30 days and then once a month thereafter.
Observe your fish closely, especially at feeding time, and watch for rapid breathing, gasping at the surface, clamped fins, white spots on fins or bodies, scratching against objects, unusual behavior, or external markings that weren’t there before. Consult your local aquatic expert if you have questions or concerns. After the first 60 days, it’s time to set up your next aquarium.
How do I know my aquarium is cycled?
Your tank is fully cycled when nitrates are produced and ammonia and nitrite levels are zero. To determine when the cycle has completed, buy test kits or bring water samples to a fish store. The process usually takes 2-6 weeks, with longer times at temperatures below 70F. Nitrifying bacteria grow slowly, taking 15 hours for a colony to double in size. It is advised to avoid getting more fish until after the tank has fully cycled, as more fish increases ammonia production, increasing stress on all fish and the likelihood of fish deaths. Once ammonia levels reach toxic levels, the tank has not fully cycled, and the accumulating ammonia is lethal to the fish.
Do water changes stress fish?
Water chemistry in closed water ecosystems like aquariums is constantly changing due to factors like fish excreta, leftover food particles, and dead plant matter. However, sudden and drastic changes can cause significant stress for fish, leading to sickness and death. Changing the water without proper measures is more damaging than not changing it for a long time. Fish may not adjust to the new water parameters, leading to immediate death or illness over a week.
Another potential cause is sudden changes in water temperature, which can cause shock and death in fish. Some fish may die within minutes, while others may die over several days. Therefore, it is crucial to take necessary measures and replace the water when necessary to prevent further damage to the fish.
How to change aquarium water easily?
To maintain a healthy aquarium, follow these 7 simple steps every week: 1) Unplug all electrical components, including heaters, filters, lights, and lights, and ensure the minimum water level line is visible. 2) Wipe off the sides of the aquarium with an algae pad to remove any algae that may be growing there. Flip over decorative rocks that may have algae growing on them two weeks later and continue with every water change. 3) Use a siphon and a bucket to remove water from the aquarium.
Place the large end of the siphon into the aquarium, suck on the hose for a second, and place the other end into a bucket on the floor. Alternatively, use the Marina Aqua Vac, which fastens to your kitchen sink and makes water changes easier. This tool is rated “Must Have” by Aquariums West and is used in stores all the time. 4) Check your pH level and adjust if necessary. 5) Use a good quality Water Conditioner.
Can you do a 100 percent water change in my fish tank?
To maintain a healthy fish tank, it’s essential to avoid completely replacing the water, as it can remove beneficial bacteria and reset the nitrogen cycle, potentially killing the fish. Instead, a partial water change is recommended, allowing for the introduction of new water over time. For smaller tanks, 10-15% of the water should be changed weekly, while larger tanks should change 20%. If using tap water, allow it to sit for three days, use a dechlorinator before pouring it, and test the water quality daily to ensure balanced pH levels. This will help maintain the natural balance and health of your pet fish.
How to change fish tank water without killing fish?
A partial aquarium water change is a more efficient method for maintaining water quality in freshwater aquariums. This involves leaving all fish, plants, and decor in the main tank, allowing important biological communities to remain intact. A 25-gallon water change is recommended, and it is important to check the temperature, dechlorinate, and slowly pour the water back into the tank. If there is an emergency like high ammonia and nitrite levels, change 50 daily until they have returned.
Regular partial water changes using a gravel siphon can improve water quality and maintain healthy fish. Adding additional bacteria to the water change can also help maintain consistent water quality. For new fish tank setups, filter start products are highly recommended to promote good bacteria in the aquarium.
How to change water in fish tank without killing fish?
A partial aquarium water change is a more efficient method for maintaining water quality in freshwater aquariums. This involves leaving all fish, plants, and decor in the main tank, allowing important biological communities to remain intact. A 25-gallon water change is recommended, and it is important to check the temperature, dechlorinate, and slowly pour the water back into the tank. If there is an emergency like high ammonia and nitrite levels, change 50 daily until they have returned.
Regular partial water changes using a gravel siphon can improve water quality and maintain healthy fish. Adding additional bacteria to the water change can also help maintain consistent water quality. For new fish tank setups, filter start products are highly recommended to promote good bacteria in the aquarium.
How to speed up the cycle?
To increase your average speed on a bike ride, follow these tips:
- Bend and tuck elbows.
- Get proper tire pressure.
- Brake less.
- Ride on the drops.
- Add intervals to your training.
- Use an aero bike or wheels.
- Wear tighter clothing.
Cyclists of all levels are interested in benchmarking and building upon their pace. Even inexpensive cycling computers can show your max, current, and average speed. However, it’s crucial to see where you stand compared to other riders and how to increase your speed.
In addition to race content, interviews, features, reviews, and expert buying guides, you can also receive expert buying guides directly to your inbox.
How to get water out of a fish tank fast?
To siphon water from a tank, one must first fill the end that is to be connected to the drain with tap water. The water can then be allowed to drain out. Once the process of water drainage has commenced, the tank will continue to draw water. An alternative method is to utilise a gravel cleaner, submerging the intake end into the gravel. It is recommended that the device be lifted and repositioned periodically as it drains, as this method is more straightforward and less messy than using a siphon hose.
Can you cycle an aquarium in 24 hours?
To cycle an aquarium, monitor the water’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Test the cycle by adding around one ppm of ammonia to the tank. If ammonia levels are undetectable after 24 hours, nitrites are undetectable, and nitrates are present, the tank has completed its cycle. While adding bacteria manually can speed up the hydrogen cycle, it can lead to fish problems later. To speed up the nitrogen cycle, use a filter and substrate from an already cycled tank. Bottled bacteria and recycled filters can speed up the nitrogen cycle. The best option is to let the process occur naturally.
📹 Aquarium Water Change – Fast and Easy (HOW TO)
Fast and Easy aquarium water change for your Fresh Water Fish Tank. Water changes are a must in this hobby. The build up of …
I always vacuum the gravel and the water goes out the window to a planted area that loves it. I do things a little unorthodox when it comes to filling the tank back up. I have a 25 gallon tub of water that I keep in a closet near the tank. I keep that water at the same parameters as what is in my tank including temperature. I use a fountain pump to pump the water from the tub to the tank. Then I fill the tub and add the water treatments so it’s ready for next time. My tap water is treated with Chloramine so it has to be corrected prior to putting it in the tank. I do a 25% water change about every 3 weeks. The water is always super clear and I have not had any spikes in PH, ammonia, nitrites or nitrates since I have been doing this. The entire water change takes about 15 minutes for my 90 gallon.
I do the same for draining the tank but for refilling I put a large bucket into the bath have the water running at the correct temp them use the pump to top the tank back up. You should get one of those clip on U bends for the hose they also have a little G clamp built into them so they won’t let the hose jump out of the tank. I got mine from e bay for a few £s very helpful little thing.
I have a hose and a floor drain for emptying and a 50ft garden hose hooked up to a shop sink that comes from my well water. No contaminates and fills up at 78* when I mix hot and cold. I change 150 gallons out of 3 tanks every friday in the time it takes to drink 2 beers. I use plastic clamps from Home Depot to hold the hose in place so it doesn’t flop out. I fill the first tank while the second is emptying and go right down the line of tanks. It works out pretty well and I haven’t been hating water changes as much. Happy fish keeping! 🙂
LINKS: EcoPlus Submersible Pump: amzn.to/2rKurOv Python No Spill Clean and Fill System: amzn.to/2rIjfTv Python Snap Connector: amzn.to/2rKnP2U Also some have asked about cleaning out waste. Most of the time I use this: amzn.to/2rJUiHf Full list of equipment recommendations here: kit.co/stevepoland/aquarium-gear/
I do about the same thing using an Ecoplus 396gph pump. Looks like the same pump you are using. I run a about an 8ft pc of garden hose out my window to my front lawn. Empties the water quicker. It looks like you can fill faster than you can drain. I am the exact opposite since I drain out a window. But during the winter I will have to run it to my sink. Great article! While I think python type systems are better than buckets nothing beats a submersible pump in my opinion.
As a fellow Cichlid-keeper, it’s good to find another that thinks alike… especially when it comes to tank maintenance. I too use that model pump to drain my 20-gal… but rely on a different method for my 40-gal: Having installed quick-connects and a diverter valve on the return hose of my system, I just flip a few valves and allow my API XP4 to pump the waste-water out a nearby window via a short hose. Meanwhile, I connect a collapsing hose w/quick-connect to the nearest sink, get the water temperature right & just close the ball-valve on the other end. When the tank level drops low enough, I switch-off the canister via it’s surge-protector, connect the fill hose to the return, flip the valves again then add all my chemicals as the tank refills. After that, it’s just a quick flip of the valves to stop the refill and restore the system’s flow-loop, then powering-up the canister again. BTW: I don’t use brass Q-D fittings, as they tend to promote brown algae… but I DO use braided 7/8″-o.d./5/8″-i.d. clear-vinyl hose. It’s kink-proof, won’t collapse under heavy suction and withstands heavy clamping, like when garden-hose fittings are used.
Great vid Steve. I have a 20mm (20 metre) hose. Drains very fast but I have fall from the house to the garden. I jam the top bit of a 3 litre juice bottle over the end and can use this as a vacuum if needed. Then fill from the sink with a 12mm hose fitted to a big pvc T that has a snap connector and spreads the water as it fills. The eheim battery vac is great but can cloud the water a bit as it picks up waste. I still use it depending on the tank. It’s best for planted tanks to give a gentle vac.
A free way to save water for those without a submersible pump is to use the faucet to start the python but then turn the faucet off. It won’t save you time, but it will be cheaper than letting the faucet run for suction. The pump is a great idea because you’ll get the nice suction for vacuuming the gravel. I currently don’t have a pump but I have a python. Thanks for the tip!
Dear well done, I also have 90 gal tank with 15 cichlid & nearly 50 fries of 1 inch size in breeding net hanged in same tank, I am facing problem of low oxygen in tank for that I have added 5 air stones in tank & one wave maker for cleaning sand substrate also for oxygenating water but still I saw my fishes some time taking fast breath specially after feed. But u did,t have a single air stone in tank also no wave maker then plz tell me how u add oxygen in water. Plz guide me what can be the problem in my tank, 1 point this issue starts from last month when I changed substrate from gravel to sand before with gravel there was no issue of low oxygen only 3 air stone used no wave maker. Now some time fishes looks OK but again start fast breathing also stay on air bubbles.
I have a 55 with a drip system off my water well with a timer set to 2G/hour/4H/D/7D making 56 gallons every week. It works great never carry a bucket again. I did have to install a heater for a 125G tank to keep the water at 78. My water is a constant 56 degrees all year out of the well. The water has .005PPM TDS with a PH at 7.2 PH. I use the Caribe Sea African Cichlid sand. The PH is a solid 7.8 PH. I have a drain that siphons off of the 1.5″ top level then drains back to my basement. It works great. I have been keeping fish for years and hated the water changes but no more.
Good article I have to empty my tank with buckets every time I add tap water I add water conditioner bout half a spoon full half of 5ml for every. 10litres if water so I have a 10 litre bucket fill it up then add my 2.5 water conditioner we’re as u only put on lot in?how do you have your water crystals clear?mine has bits floating round never see thru like yours?how do I have clear water?
I would love to have this but unfortunately my water heater is really inconsistent with temperature. I bought a 45 gal tub from Fred Meyer with wheels and I pull the sob to the tank to get the temp right and put my dechlorinator in then use the pump method. Works well with my 75 gal as I do 50% every week since I fertilize heavily which is about 39.5 gals so it does the job! I run my hose outside to the shrubbery so at least water doesnt go to waste.
Set up an automatic water change system using a calibrated drip feed at a rate of your liking, and then build a leveling siphon to draw off to a drain. The leveling siphon is simple to build and it maintains the water level you choose at all times. I have all my tanks on this system and I never have to change water on my own. Totally hands free.
If I have a bathroom sink near my room where the tank is, can I just take a clean garden hose and attach it to the faucet and snake it to the tank? Would I have to put the chemicals that I use (ph decrease and some slime replacement) into the hose before I turn it on? or after the water is in the tank?
Great vide Steve, thanks for sharing! I have a similar method. Like VB Nautical mentioned, I use the python gravel vac in combo w/ a water change. I have a sump, so I vacuum the poopy water down to the sump return pump chamber, where I simultaneously pump the water to rain barrels outside with a long hose. In so cal, we have an epic drought going on, so water is expensive/ precious. I use the poopy fish water from my rain barrel to water my garden. I had the most awesome figs this year all thanks to poopy fish water, ha.
I am having some issues with my water. So I tested my 60 gallon fish tank and everything is good. I have a canister and a regular filter in my tank. But now I’m having issues with my water where it’s now a little bit cloudy. What can I do without messing up the balance in the tank right now? I wonder really appreciate the help on some ideas. I have south and North Africa cichlids. Thank you
Great article Steve . saving all that water is really important .especially for people who have pay for there water . I had a 55 gallon .years ago .with hose and 5 gallon bucket . I did a 50% water change everyweek .and carrying all that water back and forth is hard on the back .so I hear you .God bless.
I see that you add top water and dichloride directly on the tank. My question is how long do you wait to turn the canister back on? And of your fish get sick ( gill information) by the untried water? I will like to try it but I don’t want my fish get sick. Idea and question. Can you leave the water pump on for some hours with something like filter ( water bottle or clear tube and some filter in) to collect the extra food and poop on the bottom
I have a smaller 20 gallon. I just do 25 to 30% once a week. I use a small pump and fill up a home depot 5 gallon bucket. Takes like 15 minutes. Most the time is spent filling the bucket. I’m still cycling the tank so I have done any gravel cleaning. Trying to get my ammonia levels up. Once my tank is cycled how often do you guys clean gravel?
What do you mean by you run the water until it reaches the right temperature? You use a mixture of hot and cold and fill directly? I thought it was harmful to the fish to do this. Asking because I’ve been filling gallon jugs and letting them naturally get to room temp – I didn’t know I could use heated water.
So, I dont like to put any chemicals or extrats like you but it gives me back aches to carry water in 5liter bottles every time (the water waits in bottles for few days before put into the aquarium, but hey that’s another issue to fill them up) what can I do or should I do if I don’t want to add water directly from the tap?
How does the water goes to waste? I do the water changes and the only waste i got is when i spill some drops into the floor. Besides (and correct me if im wrong) The declorinator doesent reacts instantaneously, so there would be some chlorine in the tank for a couple hours, not counting that the hot water contains copper that may be poisonous to the fish.
+ Steve Poland Cichlids – years ago while researching how to install my own irrigation system in the yard, I discovered that there are laws requiring the installation of what’s known as a “backflow preventer”. What this does is keep water from your lawn (which may contain pesticides, fertilizer, etc.) from seeping back into the potable water system. You might want to check with an actual plumber, but it seems like having the python connected to the faucet while you pump water from your tank may be filling your pipes (and possibly your neighbor’s as well) with dirty fish-tank water. Your tank seems clean enough, but I still wouldn’t want to drink a glass of water from it.
Boy do I feel like an idiot. I have the python and the pump, but I use a totally different hose for draining the tank. It’s a big fat hose and a pain to move around and store. I don’t think the python hose would fit on my pump’s outlet. I may need a smaller pump to do it this way. Thanks for the tip!!
I use two hoses. One was a DIY no spill thingy that I made. The part that hooks up to the sink broke so I ended up getting a aqueon changer. For some reason it doesn’t want to drain so I alternate with the hoses. One for draining the other for filling. Only bad part about it is that the hoses get tangle up sometimes if I’m not paying attention. I’ve been thinking about getting a pump to make it faster but I just don’t know. Before you start the pump do you get the poop out first or is the filtration enough to pick that up? That’s really only been my biggest concern.
dude it works or get the reg fat tube that you used for the 90 gallon u have and put a loofah right under the water tube and empty the water filtering to another tank on the ground with a rubber band or something tight. king of DIY joey. he uses loofah’s for his aquariums maybe no all but he says go cheap and save and less or 0 water changes. again his opinion and also I agree with him if it saves me money in water then sweet!(:
I love the idea with using a submersible pump on the end of the python. I was looking at these, and is it possible to just turn off the water tap while you’re siphoning the water out using the python in the “normal” way? Or does this just break the vacuum and stop the water from the tank coming out? Because it would negate the need for the submersible pump if I didn’t care about time? I’m happy to buy a pump, they are super inexpensive and I think it has a higher pressure anyway, than the python by itself – so it would save time. I live in Australia and am appalled by the waste of water by running the tap while siphoning the tank with a Python in the “regular” way.
Best way to do this is: Fill a rain water barrel with water and add your dechlorinator and leave overnight..this will bring the water to room temperature….use your pump to empty the tank and hose it out of a window into your garden..refill the tank from the water barrel into your tank..that way it wont stress your fish out as the room temperature will be much warmer than the water coming from the tap…
I’m going to apply this to my South American Cichlid tank soon! I have not been cycling out enough water during my water changes and my nitrates are too high because of it, I have a question though. I just did a massive 50% water change and as a result the water is incredibly cloudy, now this is normal for any massive water changes I’ve done in the past but I noticed while perusal this article that your water doesn’t get cloudy at all! What kind of system do you have in place to keep the gravel so clean that no materials are really kicked up during the water changes? This method you use does not involve gravel vacuuming so I was just curious. Thanks!
This is a good process, but what about chlorine… I see you add chemical product in water beofre adding tab water. If I’m not wrong, chlorine takes some time to be eliminated from the tab water you added. Nothing happens to the fish with chlorine until it isn’t completly eliminated?? And in winter how do you heat the water before it goes into the aquarium??
I am not an expert by any means but have had tanks for over 30 yrs. I have a 50 gallon now with an 18 inch 8 yr old Pleco and two Angel fish I’ve had for several years. The tank is Crystal Clear and fish are healthy. I never do water changes by emptying my tank…it naturally evaporates and I refill it once a month…with buckets yes. Never understood all this water changing. Glad I don’t have to. Too much maintenance!
It took 19:46 (almost 20 mins.)to take water out. Next time when you use the water pump to do a water change, do connect it to the faucet just let it hang down firmly in the sink. Then connect another hose from the faucet to the tank to fill up. Turn them both on and let it run for 19:46-20mins. Since it took that time just to take water out you waste no time at all by doing both at the same time saving you almost 15 mins.
If I do this I would probably kill all of my wish the very same day. My water has chlorine so much I can barely see through the water. So I have to put it in the bucket then add seachem prime until I can see clear water in the bucket, then I put it up in the tank. You are definitely lucky your water is as such.
I prefer to remove chlorine from the new water before adding it to the tank so I do it a little different for folks out there. I place my 5 gallon bucket in my sink and add tap water while also checking temperature, if it’s it’s good I proceed to fill it up till its at the 5 gallon mark. Then add my Prime or other chlorine removers and aquarium salt as needed while agitating the water and test the Ph and deal with it if needed. I use my water pump to then pump this nice ready water to my tank. For bigger tanks this would be more time consuming but maybe using a much bigger bucket or a plastic basket in the bathtub would work for the bigger tanks, I only have a 29 gallon so… Yea lol
I’m just starting my 46 gallon tank and can’t seem to find any good advice on how to add water that is at the compatible 75-78 degrees for my tropical tank. I have an in-home water softener which I have been told is a horrible thing to use and will mess up the entire balance of the ecosystem. I can not by pass the hot, only the cold. Boiling to heat water is a no no for other reasons, but was told by a local aquarium shop manager that she lowers her heater to be sure it is covered with water for the water change, and just runs her cold water into her tank very slowly. I would think that even at a very slow rate that would also be bad for your fish, but she insists she has never had a loss. Can anyone give me some practical advice? Thanks
Hi Steve, just subscribed great article. As I live in UK the problem I have is the python tap connectors don’t fit my mixer tap. Don’t you add any Cichlid Salt or conditioner. I use Seachem Malawi buffer, salt and trace. Adding them into my Aquarium during the water changes. Just added Caribsea Cichlid sand substrate into my Aquadecor set up. Check out my YouTube page, and Facebook page. Now going to watch your other articles. That’s my day sorted CichlidChip
The reason it’s less waste is because the original way the connector works to suck water out of your tank is by turning on the tap, Wich creates a suction and then tap water + Aquarium water Comes out the bottom of the connector. For him, it would’ve been 30 minutes of running tap water. But instead he uses a pump Wich doesn’t use tap water to suck out.
I have mostly small tanks so this won’t work for me. Plus I like using fish water for my mom’s garden. And the main reason I don’t water changes is to vacuum the substrate. This is for people with large tanks. But even for my 50 gallon someone gave me, I would like to clean the substrate because it’s light colored and look gross with all the fish waste.
I get the easier part. I do not get the water saving part. Depending of how long the hose, you will lose several liters of water. Also if you empty it to 50%, lot of the old water will still come back from the hose, when filling back up. Not a problem if you consider this, but it would have been nice of you, to point that out.
Water changes are for people who don’t know what they’re doing. I never do water changes and my fish tank is thriving. My fish are constantly having babies and my plants grow so fast I have to remove some daily. The only time I ever add water is when it evaporates and that takes weeks for a single gallon to evaporate.
Dear Steve Poland Cichlids,If you don’t like to waste water (and this is only a suggestion), you could use the water from your aquarium to water the lawn and plants; hence, the water is so rich in nutrients, and your garden (assuming you have one) will love you for it. Drain your aquarium out the window behind it. I also recommend you watch the article, “No touch no suck fish tank siphon,” by Sudarshan Bhat. It’s only 8 seconds; but it’s most impressive. No pump needed, and just as quick for draining. I tried it because I thought it was too good to be true, but I was in shock because I succeeded; and, if I can do this, anyone can do it.Cheers
Why not permanently attach your pump in the aquarium and put it in a timer on a daily basis and let your water drip in your tank and make sure that your pump will turn on before your tank get overfilled? In that case you really dont have to do anything? Just siphon the fish waste once a week? Just a suggestion thats what I do with mine
I do this a little backwards to your method, but it’s easier for me. I bought a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket that I only use for the fish. I put the bucket in the sink and fill it half way with water. I put the pump in the bucket, and the other end of the hose into the aquarium tank. I turn on the pump until water begins to flow into the tank, then I turn the pump off. This primes the hose with water. When you turn off the pump, the water siphons out of the tank. I take the pump out of the bucket so the water goes down the drain through the pump. Once the tank gets down to the half mark, I put the pump back in the bucket and turn the pump back on. I flow water into the bucket to keep the bucket filled as the pump refills the tank. After the tank gets topped off, I turn off the pump then remove the hose from the tank. The water in the hose drains out into the bucket as I roll up the hose. I pour the water out of the bucket, then put the hose in the bucket and put everything away. I finish in about 25-30 minutes. Doing it my way you don’t have to worry about dripping water on the floor when you remove the pump from the tank, plus you aren’t dropping 120V pumps into the tank. I have a 125 gallon and a 75 gallon tank. I do water changes in both tanks in about 45 minutes. I use a waterproof power strip to turn the pump on-off.
You know your not supposed to put the water directly in the tank you’re supposed to do the dechlorination before the water goes in… It takes time for the dechlorination to work. So what you’re essentially doing is allowing your fish to breathe in chlorine until the dechlorinator works. Definitely not the right way to do it I’m surprised your fish haven’t died.. or maybe you got lucky and there’s not a lot of chlorine in your water.. I know people have tried this before and their fish died..
Nice website and articles, but I’m sorry,I didn’t like the way you drain and add water, both of them… Using powerhead in the tank while fish in it not safe for smaller fish. Adding water from tap? Maybe your water source doesn’t have chlor or other chemicals in it but it’s not the same situation for everyone.And it’s better to test nitrite and nitrate before water change, maybe you don’t need to change %50 every week…
surely doing this is not cleaning your tank right, dont you have to get all your excess food out of the gravel and fish waist that has sunk to the bottom, i could be wrong. by takeing out half the water and replaceing it but then leaving all the waiat under the gravel is soon going to build up. it may be easier but its lazy and not good for your fish. my opinion.
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I’m from South Africa, and uptaking my hobby again after almost 20 years. It’s overwhelming to walk into petstores and not recognizing anything other than tubing, some fish & driftwood haha. Appreciate your articles in refreshing and helping me understand avail products and practices used with success.
So my question is when you do the water change do you just add tapwater back in from your faucet? I have angelfish, glow fish types and sucker fish, in my tank and Im still new to fish keeping. But I have not familiarized myself with adding water or doing a water change and how I’m supposed to go with the type of water to add back in I have a 110 gallon tank. Basically what I’m confused on is when you add the tap water into your tank so you put in the de-chlorinator before adding water into the tank or after. Cause I know you said you do a pre mixed bucket for your certain fish but idk if I should do the same to mine since mine arnt the same fish
Another great article.For a 25% water change how much chlorine do you need to add? Also do tell me for a 50% water change and for 75% water change accordingly. My tank size is: Height 1.7 ft,Width 1.6 ft,Length 6 ft Water capacity is U.S. Gallons 122.08 ( Liters 462.13) Please advice based on the above size of my tank.
love your articles. I have done so much research but can never get enough. I have myself my very first fish tank and a big 75 gallon tank at that! In a few weeks I’ll have the water parameters good to add fish. I had a question in regards to maintenance water changes. It’s obvious I need to add dechlorinator to my water but….. When the water has been taken out of the tank…Before I add the new tap water …do I put the dechlorinator in the current tank water then it’s safe to just pour tap water into the tank with the fish and old tank water!?? It Just sounds weird that I could put tap water in the tank right away after putting in the dechlorinator in the old tank water. or should I add tap water to a bucket with the declorinator before I put into the tank directly or is that being over cautious? I just want to make sure I don’t hurt my fishies when I get them. I may be asking a silly question but better safe than sorry I just want to take the correct steps when doing my weekly changes. Is it that safe to do so? Thank you for all the education articles.
I haven’t done a water change in months & my tank is as healthy as ever. I top my tank off with RO water, my plants handle all the nitrates in the water. I also have a fluval 307 with a uvc on the output. I test my water weekly and haven’t seen nitrates rise above 0 ppm. I gave it a month before rinsing out my 307 filter without changing any of the media to see how it handles the water parameters, so far it’s been clear water, thriving plants and stress free fish. They really like to swim in my wave maker during the day, at night they just chill still. I have driftwood that some plants are attached to, they have controlled most of the outcome of the water. I only know thing because my nitrates are so Low, prior to this they’d peak at around 3 weeks before I’d take 30% of the water out and change. Since the addition of new plants and better filter, who know how long before my next water change.
Love these articles! I went to buy a goldfish for my son, got chatting to a guy in the shop… needless to say I didn’t buy the goldfish and things escalated quickly. We love it and my 7 year old is super into it too! So, I bought the set up, bought the dechlorinator stuff, bought the starter bacteria and dosed as per the instructions, left it for a week and the levels were nice and low (though my strips were saying there was very low ammonia, even though there was nothing on there, so that’s first question). After a week we went to buy fish. About half what the tank capacity it going by the 1cm of fish rule and I’ve been continuing to put the starter bacteria in at the start up rate because my levels are still higher than it should be. A week later I’ve spiked and I’m scared. If I do a 50% water change (with dechlorinator stuff) reckon it’ll help? Another article you did said I won’t loose my beneficial bacteria that I’ve got but realistically with the amount I’ve put in (daily dose for a fortnight) I don’t understand what’s going on! Any advice would be greatly appreciated, we’ve already had one die because the others bullied it and were pecking at it 😭
How many gallons is this tank? Mine is a bowed 36 gallon. You can put cichlids in that low of a tank? Thought it has to be 75 gallon or bigger? And also on the water changes I thought every bucket I fill up with has to be mixed with the prime first. Can you just add the right amount of prime in tank and then fill it up with the chlorinated water without it deleted first? Looks like you added the chemicals in the tank and just added the hose water to the tank. Looks like it woukd be much faster which is cool but wonder if it wouldn’t mix right away with fish already in the tank? Forgive me as I’m a newbie.
Awesome article! This website has been so soild. So it is safe to very temporarily add untreated tap water to the tank? I’ve been enjoying using the python for water removal but I’ve been pre treating 10 gallons at a time and using a transfer pump to get it in the tank with fish in it. Is this a completely unnecessary step im taking?! I’d love to stop doing that loll
This is so much easier than what I usually do I didn’t know you could just pour the dechlorinator in the water while you’re doing the water change otherwise I would’ve just used a hose to begin with I thought you had to let it sit in the water for a minute for it to kick in (so I would pour the water into a bowl or bucket add D chlorinator to it and then scoop by scoop slowly refill the water)
Hey there, love all of your articles. Quick question when you add the de-chlorinator are you pouring it directly into the tank as much as you need in one shot? Or a little as you go? Or are you drawing the water from a premixed bucket, I’m assuming the python is connected straight to your tap though. Thanks for all the great content keep it up! I’ve learned a lot.
can i re establish a tank in one day? it was a family member’s, and i cleaned the tank but kept the gravel and decorations wet, and i put the pleco in old water along with new water and prime. it’s only at about 40-45% now, i’m just wondering when to fill the tank fully, I have Stability as well, if needed. Your articles have helped me so much to get this first tank started and I’m just hoping I’m doing it right!
Thanks doing this article i it helped me to change my water, it’s only been a few months I start keeping Fish and I have Malawi is in my tank I have a peacock yellow lab harps and Fronterra doing well in the tank but sometime I’m concerned about the water getting bit cloudy any advice on that please reply
I use the python as well… My problem is that I live in Florida and the water coming out of the tap is warm most of the year. So doing water changes over around 25% in my opinion, changes the temp too much and can harm/stress the fish. Do you come across this problem or know a solution besides filling buckets and letting it cool? Lol 🤦🏻♀️
Wild caught one definitely needs a higher ph but it doesn’t mean yours or other needs because most of what you buy is home bred or bought from store. Whatever their ph is low, medium or higher than 8 ph u just follow theirs. So if you buy it from someone that kept the african cichlid at a neutral ph lvl … then there is no point to use buffers to get them 8 ph or higher. You know what i mean right? So if i buy your cichlids then i will premix buffers to have a similar ph like yours but its not neccessary for other african cichlids that you buy.
Hello again Unfortunately I cannot use the python because my faucet has no way of me hooking up the python So I have to use my 5 gallon buckets but I do have a question For each bucket of water that I am going to put into the tank after taking out the water I put the solution in the bucket in the bucket I fill it up with water up with water and I let the bucket of water sit for 15 minutes for room temperature My question is for every bucket of water do I have to put the solution in the water of the bucket
I enjoy your website, you’re to the point and on the point and that makes for good articles – but I dunno about this one. I can see your water changes involve water going out of the tank, then water going back into the tank by means of some hose, but even long before I even thought about keeping fish, I recon I’d have worked out that much on my own. What I wouldn’t -and still don’t – understand is what that python thing is all about as you don’t show or explain it’s use at all! I’m starting to think maybe it IS just a long bit of hose and that’s all there is to it?? …. But otherwise I love your work😉
My brother I need this hose but it is no longer available 🙁 my back is struggling to cope carrying buckets back and forth with my cold water tank, All my tanks in my bedroom upstairs and the bathroom is the other side of the house, anything smiliar to this? I need to work out the measurements and length I would need!
You went way to fast. When did you add the dechlorinator? Did you did it directly to the tank or add it to the premixed replacement water? How long did you let the pre mixed water sit before you added it to the tank? What did you premix your replacement water with? How do you get the new water temperature right before you add it? I’m fairly new to the hobby and your website and have been both successful and unsuccessful at fish keeping.
For those who are looking to get this python tube thinking this will make their job of extracting and refilling fish tank with hardly any effort, then you are dreaming. Don’t get me wrong. This python tube does help a lot but it is not what you are thinking. *1.) If using this python, then get ready to run back and forth to and from your faucet and your fish tank. 2.) If you want to make it easier on you, then you can’t just depend on this Python Tube and its accessories alone. The little tube you use to create suction with to start the water moving is not really easy to use. Half the time you are going to be sitting at your fish tank shaking it back and forth hoping the water starts moving. Some people think just by running their faucet to force the fish tank water to the sink is more than enough. They couldn’t be very wrong. Suction created by the running water is almost next to nothing. What you need is a pond PUMP along with python tube to really make it easier on you to extracting and filling your fish tank. 3.) If the python tube didn’t come with it, then you must purchase WATER EXCHANGER adapter to connect your Python tube to your faucet.* P.S. If you have fish tank that is bigger than 10 gallon, then it is a MUST that you get this Python tube… 🙂 That’s my two cents… 🙂