PVC pipes can be joined using couplers and glue to form a durable water-tight connection, but corrugated pipes are not meant to be water-tight. To achieve a seamless and effective connection, two types of corrugated drainpipes are used: watertight and non-watertight. To stop leaks in corrugated pipes, rubber tape or waterproof tape can be used effectively.
The Corrugated Steel Pipe PREFACE Design Manual is the first edition of NCSPA’s Corrugated Steel Pipe Design Manual, which provides an extensive review and analysis of the industry. Corrugated pipes are known for their enhanced rigidity and resistance to wear and corrosion, making them crucial for transporting liquids. External repair options for achieving watertight joints in corrugated pipes involve addressing visible damage, accessible areas, and leaks on the surface.
Steel corrugated pipes are known for their enhanced rigidity and resistance to wear and corrosion. Sheet metal roof waterproofing options include bitumen thick coating, bitumen welding sheets, bitumen repair tape, and liquid film. Polymeric coatings and structural linings are emerging as great options in the industry to help CMPs stay sealed and strong.
Galvanization is the standard treatment for all corrugation pipes to provide excellent corrosion resistance in low-abrasion environments. To seal any cracks or issues, use liquid rubber seam tape or liquid rubber seam tape. It is not advisable to combine water, concrete, and galvanized sheet metal together, as it can lead to long-term corrosion.
📹 How to Install Rubber Vent Pipe Boot on Metal Roof Super Easy
In this quick tutorial, I show you our method of installing a rubber vent pipe boot on a metal roof. It is a super easy method and if …
📹 How to use butyl tape on metal roofs?
Tapes #tape #tapemanufacturing #tapemanufacturer #tapemanufacturers #taperoll #taperolls Website：www.yhtape.com …
Quick tip…when applying sealant don’t start your bead at the most critical point of potential water intrusion (top of the diamond). Start at the point you want your bead to end and apply sealant in one continuous application toward the termination point. In warm/hot low humidity environments it only takes a few moments of delay or distraction for the initial bead to skin over, creating the potential for the finish bead to pull away from the joint at the first bead as it cures, causing seal failure weeks or months later.
I like to prefit the boot, then pencil scribe the pipe, pull the boot off then run a bead of sealant on the line, then as the boot goes back on it firm a nicer seal on the inside, then caulk the outside black rubber as well. creates a noise solid bead inside and out for double sealing protection, I also seal the pipe area to roof before boot goes on
That many screws are absolutely necessary . When we first started putting metal roofs on 10 years ago we had some pop up because of wider screw spacing.. we also always put sealant around the pipe inside the boot, in my opinion that is a necessary step, just an extra layer of protection. Love your articles by the way.
If you make the penetration hole slightly smaller than what’s required, then create an upturn with a bend using pliers around the hole you’re giving a lot of extra insurance. It’ll create a solid wall right on the hole. I make mine around 10mm tall. Slight bends with pliers then tap it vertical with the hammer.
Hey Kyle, just throwing this out… after finishing installing the boot, cut the metal off another boot and pull it down over the first. Double seal and the top will protect the under from dry rot by sun. I also paint the pipe by placing protection for over spray and paint pipe and silver metal with truck bed liner spray. Makes the pipe blend in and extra protection for the screws and rubber grommets.
When I re-roofed my house with standing seam, I remember reading a detail where you would use 2 roofing panels. The lower one gets a horseshoe shaped cut in the top to allow it to run 6″ or so past (above) the pipe penetration. Then install a typical shingle-style flashing boot. Finally, install the upper roofing panel over the top half of the flashing boot. No exposed fasteners, and a clean horizontal seam in the roof panels right at the flashing boot. However, I chose to re-route my vents out the side wall under the eaves and elbow up to get my clearance over the roof, because I couldn’t bear to poke any holes in that brand new metal!
Excellent Job! For even a better Sealant then the Tripolymer : Is to Use a Polyether Sealant. There are different brands. At a Roofing Supply you could get “GreatSeal”, or M1. Polyether sealant from GreatSeal is a Modified Polyurethane which contains zero 0 Solvents. Which Means it does Not Shrink. It has a 500% Elongation at 1/4″ Bead, (Meaning it is very Flexible), good adhering to metal, plastics, concrete… Use a generous amount and avoid only putting a thin skin amount on. It works better with an 1/4″ thickness or more and then tapered on the edges. You can even use it to fill a large gap, strike it off with a flexible plastic to spread it smooth, seams to work better than the finger at least on larger joints or gaps. Polyether Sealant cures and does not need to “dry out” any solvent out of it. It cures all the way through even on large amounts. Can be painted over immediately. I personally like the Gray Color, as the other colors seam to be a little different consistency. The Bronze is a little bit thicker, but the Gray flows better.
I will attempt to use one or multiple studor vents just under the deck. No penetration necessary. I know they restrict air flow, but meet code. Worse case, I have to penetrate and will use same method in the article. Never had a leak with those boots, even with a flue for a wood stove. Good job and thanks for the article.
Hey mate, as a standing seems roofer in Germany, we never use those type of seeling. I’d prefer to bent like a 1cm up before u put your pipe out, so if one day water come in, there is always that 1cm of metal standing up so water cannot come inside the building. And we also like to let a little a hole on the bottom tso if water come inside, she can also go out from the bottom 🙂 I not working a lot with steel, more with Zinc, koper or aluminium. U could also do a pipe out of steel, witch cover the all platic pipe then u weld on the rood itself, I don’t know If I explain it right. Your way is also good, but I don’t trust thos seleant an plastic stuff ^^
I have very successfully used epdm “witches hat” for more than a decade. Just make sure to wipe down the metal first to remove any contaminants. Apply quick primer, let dry them stick the witches hat and roll the part that contacts the metal. I also apply the sealant just like you did. It’s great to see people who take pride in their work.
We custom make a flashing all soldered up and layer it between the panels. Instead of running one long panel with a hole for the pipe we run a panel up to the pipe then overlap our flashing over the pipe with standing seems then put another panel on top of that up the rest of the way. Depending on the pitch of the roof we might add caulking between layers as well as a hook at the top of each panel/flashing to catch wind blown rain. But all of this is for custom panels we hand bend in our shop so I’m not sure how applicable this would be for you. Also the flashing is made from metal that’s solderable like galvanized but has a coating that is paint ready and we just paint to match after soldering.
What I usually do is put flashband tape around the pipe going over the dektite (that’s what we call that rubber thing) which acts as a skirt so that water runs straight over where the rubber meets the pipe. This works so well and irradiates any chance of leaks. The issue with just using silicone around the top is that it breaks down in UV light over time, so the flashband is great insurance and makes the work you’ve done last way way longer. Just a tip from England. We get a lot of rain here lol
I guess this is why we (plumbers) don’t do the flashings anymore. I never thought of the diamond idea or the tape. I’d always be super cautious about that top part and would just caulk the shit out of it. We’d run a bead on the bottom, screw it down, then run another bead around it. I’ll do it this way next time except maybe the tape unless they sell a super small amount. I guess the main reason we don’t do flashings is because most of the time we deal with TPO roofs so it really needs roofers to do the flashing. On a side note, I like to see builders like yourself who do most of the building. My dad was a builder/remodeler. When I say that people just assume he was a GC. I have to explain that they did it all. They’d frame, roof, drywall, finish, tile, and sometimes paint. It’s refreshing to see others doing that instead of every little thing being subbed out
Hey Kyle, big fan. It would be better to use 2 beads of butyl sealant versus tape on the penetration flange, beucase screws will grab the tape and pull it, which will thin out on either side of the fastener. Also, a good quality silicone sealant (tooled) with colour (Tremco Spectrem 2 or DOW CWS) is better than clear acrylic or urethane. Acrylics and urethans will craze and eventually have a loss of cohesion, and clear will allow UV to penetrate through. A bead of sealant (tooled) on either side of the flange on the high-side and at the top of the boot is great waterproofing reduntancy.
On a new building i have the plumbing, electrical and heating systems through the sheathing and then have a lower and upper roof panels that overlap with standard roof boot between them. I like the seal i get and believe it looks better. I did have to use a similar boot that split open on an existing power pool when reroofing my house and these types of boots definitely have there uses
I have actually cut the pipe on the roof pitch and marked it on the metal roofing cut it to fit tight and seal. No rubber flashing at all, one of the houses I did this way is close to 20 years old and no leaks. I might want to reseal it this year. The rubber boots on my personal house with a shingle roof had to be replaced at just under 20 years old due to going bad.
Thanks for the vid Kyle. I haven’t tried this, but I think it would make sense to break the standing seam roof panels into 2 pieces wherever there are vent pipes, and install a slimmer metal type of boot before putting the next roof panel on above it, and overlap it over the base of the boot so that it sheds water. Then again, this would require venting the pipes prior to installing the standing seam. Just an idea
Kyle just had a standing seam metal roof installed on my house. Around the plumbing vent stack pipe the boot they used had round base instead of a square one. You might want to check with your suppliers. Still has the metal ring on top to screw through. Let me know and I’ll check what the brand is they used.
I’m NOT a pro on this stuff, but I had an idea. Didn’t watch the roofing part either, but I thought: if that ridge cap was vented, could you possibly just end the vent pipe up into the mesh under the ridge to let it vent from the inside? Or, is that a bad idea for some reason? Great idea to turn the cover to a diamond for better runoff!
i know this is a common method but the idea of sinking 20+ screws around a single pipe just makes my skin crawl. a good “first step” here would be either caulk around the pipe, or, give the metal a 3/8″-1/2″ bend up (or both!) just as a secondary defense. i prefer to make my own flashings out of sheet metal and seam it into the panel. it takes time but its absolutely bomb proof.
Kyle, on a project like this would it be possible for you to pre-install the vent stack PVC pipe for the plumber to tie into later? It seems like it would be easier for you to do some of your awesome metal origami to protect the seal better and camouflage the vent stack while you are at it. Picturing a solid pyramid cut from corner to corner. Done by running steal that stops a couple feet up-slope of the stack, drill hole and install the PVC and seal, then making a peaked piece (half pyramid) like on the backside of chimneys for the up-slope side of the stack with a solid flat piece on the down slope side of stack, and continue the roof panel shingled on top of that with angle pieces to clamp to at the bottom of the up-slope run. Like how you did where the main roof meets the porch gable. And use a piece of the color matched gutter down spout tube to cover the white PVC. Would definitely be a lot more work, but is a detail that would blend in to the roof and at the same time make your skill and attention to detail stand out to the owner. It would also have a mechanical flashing to deflect water before ever getting to the seal. I just realized how hard it is to describe what I am thinking without pictures. Sorry I kind of get OCD and nerd out on little details like this, which is why I love perusal your work.
Another great article Kyle and Greg. Your local building code/regs may say vent through roof, however there may be an alternative. An Air Admittance Valve(AAV) may have been a better option as it could’ve saved you having to cut a hole in that very nice roof. I’d suggest a quick YouTube search of AAVs. Might be something you can discuss with clients and your plumber on future projects like this. Excellent content as always. 👍. #bringbackzack
I use a waterproof membrane like you use to waterproof a shower. use a product (from deco sealer) that is really sticky then attach a thick cloth type fabric. Then put on a waterproof membrane about three coats. I use deco sealer membrane brand because it can handle the UV and be painted. Hasn’t been long since I did so not sure how it will hold up against the sun.
Make sure you always use mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to clean the roof where you going to apply the butyl tape and clean the bottom of the boot where you’re going to apply to butyl tape. And clean around the pipe and the boot were you caulked. This is called prepping your surface. Stop the stop the lifespan of the sealant is in question.
Nice to see someone else installing them correctly. The Only concern I see is the mixing of butyl and silicon. I have alway been told to use one or the other, never both as they eat into each other. I have zero evidence to support this tho lol. The other thing I like to do is fit the dektite dry and mark where it sits on the pipe, this way I can apply silicon to the pipe just above my mark and then pull the dektite through the sealant as I fit it to create a nice clean seal to the pipe.
Not fitted one before but at 2:31 before putting the boot down, what about putting a bead of silicone on the roof metal around the hole in the roof as a final barrier? You could also put a V of silicone on the roof itself just above the boot once installed, to deflect water running down the roof away from the boot. Though it wouldn’t look great perhaps having a random V bead of silicone on your roof (though unlikely to be seen) and not sure how long it would actually remain in place/last? 6:21 – us Brits say belt and braces 😉
Hey Kyle, I was wondering if you have any tips on finding a good apprenticeship. I’m 19 about to finish trade school with 6 certificates is carpentry and I just love working with my hands I work for a bathroom remodeler but get treated and paid pretty poorly, I’m trying to find a good job I can grow with a learn a tun. I wanna know as much as you or the Perkins brothers one day, but I live Indiana and there’s just no carpentry jobs around here and if there is it’s 5 years experience required. Any tips?
Comment ……What I do is buy another boot and cut the metal of the boot and put it over the top of the first boot, stopping before they touch and that way the first boot is protected from the sun and weather and will always stay nice and the second boot will take all the abuse and can easily be replaced if need be and I also use a stainless steel pipe clamp on the second boot.
Cut the panel to tuck the top of the boot under the roof. Angled is best like you did so the water sheds off the bottom edge. The horizontal cut should be slightly LESS then the width of the boot or in this case, the cut could mimic the diamond shape making it easier to tuck under the panel. Horizontal cut should line up somewhere around the middle of the pipe. Top of the roof over the boot, bottom under the boot. You could also 2 piece the boot but one piece is obviously better. Dang plumbers/electricians should get done first.
Interesting – not hating but would assume there has to be a better system. That standing seam will last forever, but now there is a weak link with holes by the screws. Always assume with age water will enter. Would have thought roof designers would have another brilliant idea. Could you not add in a collar on pipe before at top so water would go around inside and leave lower corner open to drain out. The boot will also get brittle and crack with UV rays. Again not hating, but seems like there is room for improvement. Would order a box of extras for homeowner to replace in X many years. So screws line up if they happen to change designs.
I am really surprised the building-industry-nerds, have not come up with a better way of doing that. Why not have the pipe exit the roof perpendicular and then put a 30 degree elbow in it ? Groove the pipe on the inside and put an o-ring below the lip of the boot. Fill the inside of the boot with a material that does not rot and some flexible silicone. Maybe a tiny weep hole at the bottom of the boot. And why do they construct the boot square. A diamond or oval shape might work better.
Dang Kyle, I cringed with every screw! It may never leak in your life time and the diamond method will help, but you are relying purely on sealant / tape now and sooner or later it will fail. It takes extra effort and planning in new construction (need to have the pipe location pre-determined or the pipe in before roofing), but the way we dealt with it (at the roofing company I used to work for) was to split the metal roof sheet at the penetration. We would frame a box out of 2x6s or 2x8s for the pipe to come through and then flash with metal around the box and make a metal cap for the top of the box. The lower roof sheet is then notched around and runs up past the box 6-8″. The top sheet is then notched around the box and brought down over the lower roof sheet – usually a few inches past the bottom side on the box – use a dab of sealant between the panels to help hold the top panel down at the edges of the notch (or a couple screws in a screw down application). This keeps all of the roof water away from the boot. Then install a boot like you used on top of the box – which could even be pitched slightly to help shed the water. The only water to deal with in this system that is relying solely on sealant then is the water that falls on the boot/cap itself, which is negligible comparatively. It also allows for the boot to be easily replaced should it ever fail, without removing roof panels. This is the only way to keep from running a screw through an actual roof panel. Depending on what is available, if you can find a different style boot with a larger metal pan on it, you could split the metal sheets in the same fashion and avoid building the box.
Pipe is a through roof penetration. boot is a through roof penetration flashing. Butyl will never cure in a blind application. The roof panel is free floating and you have pined the panel in the middle…you should release the drag load at the ridge. Should have placed a bead of sealant around the pipe before the through roof penetration was installed should be a draw band clamp placed at the flashing termination to the pipe. maybe my 4 cents
Boy was I taken by a fly-by night outfit here in Thomasville ga. Called triple RRR roofing. The nightmare they created for me,it started that night after we got a good rain an d the leak around the plumbing roof vent boot allowed the water to pour in . I had to put buckets up in the attic to help catch the water. Called them and they sent out one of their bearded drunks .he tried sealing the boot with sealant next week got another downpour and the fu…kin leak occurred again, finally I persuaded owner to order another sheet of metal and reinstall.those flunkys didn’t even possess the proper sheet metal pliers to cut heavy gauge metal, should of used hole saw. Anyway this was about 15 years ago and now the boot has cracked and worn and started leaking again, I gotta find a new boot and supply s to fix it,and maybe look into inspecting the other ones for replacement. Ask my neighboor who they knew who was in the metal roofing biz,that was my first mistakes and a very costly one at that.wish I had run that bunch of young drunkard pothead off my property that day when I started noticing their crummy work about halfway through the job.buyers beware,don’t be an easy target like I was.
Looks like you did a good job but man I don’t like the looks of it. That rib is going to fill with water and just sit against that tape until it dries up. I feel like if the hole was cut in the middle of a seam you could cut an upside down V into the roof like how you have the square turned, put J website in that V half way down and mount half of that boot under the metal roof (Top Side) and half of it on top of the roof (bottom side) so the water can shed off to the sides…Might be worth trying it on some scraps.
The best workaround for me in my zone is to position the vents as close to the peak (within 2′) and mid cell. Then either I can or the roofer can close the cell with a solid sheet detail past the end of the boot. We recieve up to 3 meters(10′) of snow hear and the passive snow load causes so much ice lift on exposed edges of boots like this. Still use them but double boot to ensure a 50 year roof.
I believe my method of overlapped panels is better (you did ask). Just extend the lower panel past the vent location, intall the vent and overlap with the upper panel. Mine is now 12 yrs old with no leaks, and I have three vents due to horizontal distance between toilets (a code thing). My article is here. studio.youtube.com/video/I4P2j46WkSo
The hole for the pipe should be 20% smaller than the actual pipe, according to Oatey. I’m disappointed with Oatey. First off they tell you to use #6, 3/4″ screws, which are too small. I had purchased #9, 1 1/2″ screws, but ended up using #8, 1″ screws. I think they were too small. Secondly, they tell you to use silicone caulk, instead of silicone adhesive, or the butyl tape that Kyle used. Now I’ve installed the collar, and I’m hoping I don’t have to do it again.
The whole putting a hole through the roof in the middle of a standing seam roof is non compass! I’m a plumber, and I don’t like it. A little more thinking at the design stage could have made much better provision for the venting that you must have. But it could have been located so much more cleanly. that roof was awesome, and not exactly cheap- as the intended owner, I would have been a bit disappointed in how my investment got swindled by inadequate forethought by the architect/planners. Just me, venting- unless those provisions had been made and the plumber been instructed to, this is what you get. Not your fault, Kyle, but I’d make a note and try to hold it to a much smaller problem on future metal roofing, altogether.
Only problem with any method is u have absolutely no way of telling if u have a leak if u have closed cell foam sprayed underneath your roof wood decking. At least not until it’s been rotted out from years of water being trapped between foam and wood decking. I ran my vents out gable end back side of house.
I hope that cannot be seen from the street. I would not be happy seeing that on my new black metal roof. I suggest you make the vent pipe showing thru roof to be ABS. not pvc. You can easily add a coupling under roof line and change to abs. All the screws may be needed but ruin the look of the beautiful job you did on the roof. Sorry, but it’s just my opinion. You did too nice off a job on roofing to finish it with that installation on plumbing vent. At least use abs cause it’s black and not a white pipe showing thru a black roof. Good luck. No issue with workmanship. Also. You can get a black metal vent collar too and not use a silver one.
I would speak to everyone making comments about this being an abomination without providing any solutions. You’re no help. @RR Buildings that dektite will last MAYBE 8-10 years at the most. You and many of your viewers know that detail is garbage in relation to the quality of the rest of the roof but I understand that information on better approaches are scarce. I would suggest starting here youtu.be/w7lAFq7j3qg . I would simplify this process by taking a 4″ round downspout and cutting it on a mitre saw before mechanically seaming it to the panel.
How to create a leak in your roof should be the title of this article. The upper side of the boot ALWAYS goes UNDER the roof by cutting a slot in the roof. In this article he’s using a boot made for comp roofs. You should NEVER use this small style comp roof boot on a metal roof. Boots made for metal roofs have a large metal flange for fastening to the roof.