Citrus trees are a rewarding fruit tree that can be grown in-ground or in containers. They require ample nutrients to produce new growth, and once depleted, they may need a larger pot. To replenish these nutrients, repot the plant. Citrus fruits can provide a variety of fruits, including oranges, lemons, limes, kumquats, and even berries.
To grow citrus, choose a sunny, sheltered outdoor spot in summer and a greenhouse or other bright, frost-free location for winter. Water citrus trees deeply twice a week during establishment, but the frequency can be reduced when the tree is established. Citrus plants grow best with temperatures at 18°C during the day and between 5°C and 10°C at night.
In summer, houseplants can be moved outdoors, and they need access to full sunlight and well-draining soil to avoid waterlogging. A sunny south-facing window is ideal for citrus trees, which require 8-12 hours of sunlight per day. Consistently water the tree, especially in the summer, and apply a generous layer of mulch around its base to lock in moisture and nourish the soil.
The best citrus tree fertilizer is a slow release, low nitrogen fertilizer, which should be fertilized every two months during its first growing season. By following these guidelines, you can successfully grow and care for citrus trees indoors, providing a variety of fruits and vegetables.
📹 How to Plant, Grow, & Care for Citrus Trees (COMPLETE GUIDE)
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Are coffee grounds good for lemon trees?
Coffee grounds are a nutritious organic material that can be used to feed your lemon tree. They are high in nitrogen and other nutrients that promote plant health. Instead of using traditional fertilizer, coffee grounds offer a cheaper alternative and reduce the time spent on buying and transporting it. Benefits of using coffee grounds include building strong cell walls, accelerating root system growth, and providing a natural repellent for snails, slugs, and deer.
The calcium in coffee grounds allows the tree to build strong branch structures, while the high dose of nitrogen accelerates root system growth, resulting in healthy foliage. This eco-friendly solution is a cost-effective and environmentally friendly way to maintain plant health.
Where does citrus grow best?
Citrus trees thrive in temperatures between 55 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with ideal temperatures for spring and summer being 75 to 90 degrees. In fall and winter, the optimal temperature range is 60 to 70 degrees. Containerized citrus trees can be moved indoors during harsh cold weather, and planting in a wind-protected spot is the best defense. Heaters can reduce humidity, so they should be avoided.
If located in Growing Zones 8 to 11, planting in the ground is possible, but in zones 4 to 7, pots are recommended for indoor use. If temperatures drop below freezing for extended periods, protection is necessary. For questions about plant hardiness, contact your local County Agricultural Extension Office.
What is the best position to grow citrus?
Citrus trees require light soils with good drainage and sunlight, and should be planted on a raised mound for heavier soils. Prepare the soil with well rotted manure, blood and bone, and potash. If the soil is very alkaline, add sulphur to maintain a neutral pH. Plant the tree in spring when the soil temperature is around 16°C, clearing at least 1 meter of space around the planting hole. Allow the tree to establish, allowing other plants to rob it of moisture and nutrients.
Introduce shallow-rooted groundcovers, but keep cultivation under the canopy to a minimum. Plant the tree at the same depth as it was growing in the container, and mulch well to prevent collar rot. Water the tree well, but over-watering and poor drainage are more harmful than drought.
What citrus grows best in pots?
For citrus growers, it is recommended to use a 10-14″ pot for starter-sized trees, including Primo trees. Clay pots and wooden containers are attractive but less mobile choices. Ensure the container has sufficient drainage holes and drill extra holes to improve drainage. As the tree grows, increase the size to a 16-20″ diameter pot.
For citrus growing in containers outside, provide 8 or more hours of direct sunlight per day, supplemented with grow lights if less than 6 hours is provided. An unobstructed South or Southwest facing window is ideal, and sunny, wind-free locations with southern exposure are the best. If unsure, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. Reflected heat from sidewalks or houses can help create a warmer microclimate. Avoid placing citrus in containers near lawns that get frequent, shallow watering. Nest plastic nursery pots into slightly larger decorative pots to reduce excessive heat on roots.
Ensure the pot never sits in standing drainage water and use a saucer with river rock to ensure adequate drainage. Protect young trees and tender new growth from the scalding sun by using Plant Guard tree paint and foliar spray for an easy-to-apply layer of protection.
Are eggshells good for lemon trees?
Eggshells are a valuable resource for citrus trees, as they contain calcium. They can be pulverized and incorporated into the soil surrounding the tree’s base, or utilized as mulch. However, it is advisable to avoid excessive use in order to prevent potential adverse effects on plant health.
What is the best food for lemon trees in pots?
The text advises planting citrus plants in a potting mix specifically designed for citrus, such as Scotts Osmocote 25L Citrus And Fruit Premium Potting Mix. However, the plant may grow well in the current mix. For feeding, Scotts Osmocote 500g Citrus and Fruit Controlled Release Fertilizer is recommended. The author’s baby Dwarf Lemon Meyer plant, which is only half a meter tall, has been loving the PineGro Tomato and Vegetable mix, which is currently out of stock.
They are advised to add extra fertilizer when needed and to thin out the buds as with fully grown citrus. The author wishes good luck to DIYers in the Perth district and Sydney-siders during the scorching heat and fires.
What is the easiest citrus fruit to grow?
Citrus can be grown from seed or propagated from semi-soft stem cuttings taken in spring or summer. Commercial varieties are almost always grafted with a different rootstock, and suckers should be removed to prevent vigorous growth that detracts from fruiting wood. Citrus trees can be pruned at any time to shape and balance the tree, and lemon trees can even be trained as bonsai specimens. Most commercial oranges and other citrus grown outdoors in warm climates are too large to be grown indoors. Dwarf cultivars, or those on dwarfing rootstocks, are especially suited for growing in containers.
Sweet citrus, such as oranges and tangerines, need a lot of heat to ripen, while acid citrus, like lemons and limes, need much less and are more easily grown indoors. Some of the easiest cultivars include Bearss lime (C. x latifolia), Variegated calamondin (Calamondin), Citron (Citrus medica), Kaffir lime (C. hystrix), Eureka lemon (Eureka), Kumquat (Fortunella spp.), Meiwa kumquat (F. crassifolia), Limequat (Mexican lime and kumquat), Mandarin or satsuma oranges (C. reticulata), Meyer lemon (Meyer), Tahitian orange (Citrus limonia ‘Otaheite’), and Trovita orange (C. sinensis).
These citrus varieties are known for their unique characteristics, such as their vigorous, thornless growth, sweet fruit, and ever-blooming nature. It is essential to purchase a known variety and ensure proper pruning to maintain the tree’s health and fruiting potential.
How often should I fertilize citrus?
It is recommended that trees be fertilized on a year-round basis, with particular emphasis on February, May, August, and October. This is especially important for new trees in their first four years of growth.
What are the best conditions for citrus plants?
In order to ensure the production of flavorful fruits, citrus trees require sunlight and warmth. Therefore, it is essential to select a location that receives ample sunlight and has a southwestern exposure or reflective warmth. It is inadvisable to plant citrus trees in lawns, as they have disparate water and fertilizer requirements. In the event that a mulched, grass-free area beneath the tree is required, this should be maintained. It is essential to select the most suitable citrus varieties for the prevailing climatic conditions.
What is a natural Fertiliser for citrus?
To feed citrus, use natural, easily assimilateable materials like homemade compost, well-rotten manure, vermicastings, fish waste, or seaweed. Avoid artificial fertilizers and overfeeding to prevent pests and disease. Apply the feed on top of existing mulch, if well-broken down, or pull it back if raw. Spread a fine layer of compost and a few spades of chopped kelp or well-rotten manure or vermicastings. Mulch is crucial for citrus, as it holds moisture, builds humus, encourages thriving soil life, moderates temperature, and reduces competing weeds.
What is the best fertilizer for citrus?
It is standard practice among citrus growers to utilise a 13-13-13 fertiliser for a period of three years, during which time the root system is developed. Should fruit develop, it is harvested in order to facilitate root development. It is recommended that trees older than four years should use 13-13-13 as a fertilizer, although 15-5-10 is considered to be the preferred option.
📹 3 BIG Mistakes Gardeners Make Growing CITRUS Trees
This video discusses 3 BIG mistakes gardeners make growing citrus trees. Citrus tree care is different than most fruit trees, and …
If you enjoyed this article, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for perusal 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Common Mistakes Growing Citrus Trees 0:26 Mistake #1: Fertilizing Citrus Incorrectly 3:44 Mistake #2: Pruning Citrus Incorrectly 6:05 When To Prune Citrus Trees 7:46 Mistake #3: Thinning Fruit Properly 11:05 Adventures With Dale
I think this is the overall best gardening website on YouTube. Your knowledge on such a wide variety of topics and plants is pretty much unmatched on here. There are those of us who specialized in tomatoes, giant pumpkins (sorry you have heard this from me about 10 times before), peppers, etc, but you know more about a wide variety of plants and pushing zones than all of us. And thanks for correcting a lot of garden myths as well.
Not only do you share tips and growing guides you also explain the “why’s” . You inspire any level gardeners to try stuff, you assist new gardeners to jump in and grow stuff, and you minimize and save us years of trial and error by creating these articles. They educate us with such a personable way that makes it seem doable. Thank you!!! and keep up the hard work of gardening and sharing your world.
Millennial Gardener, I have a lime tree in a container. It is 42 years old. But it is now suffering. I hope you can make some recommendations to help me and this tree. I live in Wisconsin about 30 miles south of Milwaukee and I bring the tree inside in the winter. It is located in front of south facing patio doors, so it gets good sun light. In March and April and continuing into May, it is loosing a lot of leaves. One whole side is leafless. It has not been repotted in a long time, so I am sure it is root bound. It is planted in regular soil, not potting soil, so the root ball is so thick and hard it is impossible to loosen. When I water it some water flows through to the overflow pan under the pot and the water is colored a bright yellow / orange. I think the following, but would really appreciate your recommendations: I think the water is indicating that the soil has too much residual fertilizer and needs to be rinsed. I know it needs to be repotted, but I can’t break up the root ball. I poked some 1/4 inch holes through the root ball about a month ago to help aerate and get water to the center of the root ball. Perhaps I could cut off the bottom third of the root ball, cut some 2 inch deep vertical slits in the remaining root ball and put it back into the pot with new potting soil in the bottom. I don’t want to put it in a bigger pot, because the pot is already heavy and I am not getting younger:-)
I love this website! I’m in the process of reviewing all of the articles here to increase my gardening knowledge and skills. And shockingly to me, these articles don’t bore me. I know all others do their best but you go the extra mile. Currently, I’m readying my evergreen trees for winter in Florida and your article for what to do is my go to. Zone 9a can throw some unexpected freezing temperatures for periods longer than the recommended cold hardy temps for tropical fruiting trees. Furthermore, the rainy season can plague gardeners with root rot, blights and other various plant diseases; And don’t get me started on the endless pests and insects all wanting to crunch on, to suck or raise their broods inside your tree and/or roots! I tried organic methods and lost a couple thousand dollars worth of fruit trees. Nearly every resident gardener here eventually abandons the organic approach. Finally, after taking gardening advice from sources and experimenting via trials and errors, my fruit trees are the healthiest they’ve ever been. So, if you can share how you protect your trees from tree borers, citrus psyllids, armoured/soft scales, citrus leaf miners, citrus thrips, glass winged sharp shooter and the host of diseases they transmit to your citrus trees, I’d just love it! Thank you for another great article.👏😍
Thank you for all the information! I am in zone 7B and bring my container citrus trees inside for the winter months. My trees (2 year old grafted trees) seem to struggle for a few months (mainly leaf drop) after they are brought inside. Although they are under a grow light (for 10-12 hours), proper watering, and pest free, I would be curious to see how you transition plants in the winter months to reduce the stress on the plants (leaf drop, etc). By the way, the organic and water soluble approach to fertilizing was a game changer in my garden!
My only lemon tree I bought had about four leaves and 3 little buds. I got it with 50% price reduction, I repotted him and I see him sprouting more leaves and twigs this is the first time that I grow citrus tree, I’m not so good in gardening, I worked mostly as a computer engineer and informatics teacher. I hope to go in pension this year and God willing I might have some years to do some gardening. Thank you so very much for your advice I will try to follow your way and hopefully I can do something right… May the Lord keep and bless you.
I will have to go back a look at the older articles. Thanks for the info. I’ve been doing my citrus all wrong. I brought my mewa qumcuat in and it dropped its leaves and fruit second year of doing that. So sad. I have to figure out where I can place my pots. I was thinking about planting them in ground but where is the question?
Amazing. I finally understand what’s gone wrong on my lemon trees, it happened exactly as you described, to the letter. I bought the trees and they clearly had far too much fruit on them (young rootstock with older fruit tree grafted on), the fruits were small and didn’t all ripen and I haven’t had any fruit since and the trees are really struggling. I have kept on top of pruning but no where enough fertilising and you have just in-ravelled the whole thing. Thank you so much.
Thank you for your information. As a fellow fig enthusiast and backyard container gardener, I always enjoy perusal your articles. I live on the Southeast coast of Virginia (Hampton Roads), and I recently acquired a small Meyer lemon bush from an online vendor. It came looking a bit dried out but no damage, I have it inside in a west-facing window and under 14 hours of grow lights and its beginning to flower. I am concerned, because I read that citrus will bloom when stressed and maybe dying. Is there anyway I can know if the tree is ok or if the flowers are a warning sign of imminent decline? Any thoughts
This was so helpful as we are in our first year with citrus trees!! Two lemons and one Meyer lemon! I just pruned the smoke lemons before I left for a couple of weeks. When I returned they had begun to flower and I was freaking with the colder weather coming but our trees are doing great! Your articles have helped so much!! We are in Shallotte, not far from you in Wilmington. Thank you so much for the time & effort you put into your articles🤗
I live in the sandhills of NC. I bought a small Meyer lemon tree from Tractor Supply last summer. Can I plant it in the ground? It gets cold here and I worry I will lose it. I have it inside my house and it’s dropped all it’s leaves. How can I keep it alive. HELP please!! I enjoyed your article! Very informative.
I agree with you about fertilizing and some thinning of the fruits when tree is young. As for prunning, I do not prune much other than dead/crossed branches. There are some articles about citrus tree prunning…and that is very little prunning is needed and do not expose the trunks/branches to sun for fear of getting them sun burnt…Well, I do not know if that is true, but I am not prunning much and my Sutsuma tree bears over 400 fruits two years in a row for the matured tree. The tree flowers a lot, but it tends to drop the young fruits a lot as well, so I let nature does the prunning for me.
Hi, I bought my first fig trees this past August. I wasn’t sure on what type of soil I should plant them in. My garden soil is needing to be built up, so I planted them in my High tunnel greenhouse in raised beds. They have done very well in the bought mulch I purchased from Home Depot. Did I do the right thing planting in my greenhouse. My thoughts is: should be planted in the outdoor garden instead; Also will it hurt to retransplant them into my outdoor garden instead of leaving them in the greenhouse. Thanks I loved your latest articles as usual. You must have taken some public speaking at college level, as you are very well spoken. you do a fine job with what you are doing. Love your garden yard etc. Jessie from Arkansas
For people who bring their citrus indoors in the winter: Be sure to keep your trees away from heat vents. Heat vents can dry out the plant and cause them to drop all their leaves. Give plenty of light. You want to keep the room above freezing but not super hot. You are imitating its natural winter of 40-50F. Do not overwater. Overwatering when the citrus are not actively growing can also cause leaf drop and/or root rot. Make sure the pot has exceptional drainage and the tree does not sit in water. During the winter, only water when the top couple of inches of soil are dry to the touch. Watch for pests. Aphids can be washed off leaves in the shower or squished. Scale can be wiped off with alcohol and a cotton ball. I usually rinse with a little water after usuing alcohol but its not really necessary.
How do I tell the difference between sucker branches and fruit-bearing branches? I have Meyer lemon, clementine orange, and Persian lime trees. They all produce branches all along the trunk of the tree, so I try to keep some of the trunk bare. However, none of the trees are producing new fruit-bearing branches, so I am wondering if I am pruning the wrong branches.
I was given 2 lemon trees from someone that was moving. I have no idea what sort of Lemon they are. They did great during the summer and fall. Being in Washinton State I took them inside and have a plant light on them. They are still doing fine but this last week I am seeing new leaves turning a deep red color. Is that due to bringing them inside or maybe the temperature??
Help!! I started from seed in spring of 2022 in peet cups. Several wintered inside well, leaving me four that in Spring of 2023 I repotted into larger pots. They’ve tripled in size, and are healthy. I recently put them in bigger pots (last weekend). I have never pruned them. My question is: At 18-20″ tall, should I prune 1/3 of their tops before wintering them inside again, or should I go ahead prune the tops and plant them in-ground? I am in Zone 8b in Mississippi. We had a very harsh winter last year, and I fear putting them in ground they wouldn’t make it until they’re bigger. Question 2: is it even possible they will produce? Someone told me because they were Meyer from store bought lemons they will not produce.😢
Ok I love what you are doing, but I am still debating if it is worth the effort for me. I’m zone 8a Georgia, southwest of ATL. I have no southern wall to plant against. I could possible cover small trees, but they all grow up! I had a satsuma years ago and the pot just kept getting bigger and bigger till I couldn’t move it back in the house. I tarped it, but it didn’t make it through the winter. I am considering digging a pit into the south facing hill side to plant it where it would get a little geothermal protection. The question is, do I want another project on my hands. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your wisdom with us.
Is there a maximum life span for a citrus tree? I have a lemon tree that’s 40+ years old that produces the most amazing fruit with no effort. I would be devastated if I lost it as I don’t know the variety and have never had anything like it. Is there something I can do to “re-grow” another one if there is a maximum lifespan for it?
My Meyer lemon tree is loaded with blossoms and I’m starting to see fruit. But I think there is just too much! This is the first time I’ve gotten any blossoms/fruit. It’s in a container and I’m in zone 8a coastal Carolina. The constant wind has caused some of the fruit to fall off. My instinct is to cut off some of the tiny fruit but I hesitated every day I’m out there looking at it 😂
I’m dealing with leaf miners right now on my citrus. I’m going to spray more pyrethrin tomorrow. Hopefully I can get on top of it. I did not know to give them fertilizer year around. Thanks for the information on that. What about deciduous fruit trees. What is the fertilizing schedule for them? Thank you!
I’ve never heard of pruning citrus, unless a branch breaks or you are forcing it to dwarf. However, if you get leaf miners, which I’ve dealt with for 25 years successfully, then I would prune lower branches off. I trim tree to three feet, or hip height, off the ground. The larvae of the leaf miner is in fallen leaves and matures in the soil. If I trim up high enough, few succeed in finding their way up to the canopy. Those that do, deform the new leaves now; and I clip THOSE bits back. Don’t compost. Remove from your garden. Also, remove fallen leaves from ground. One year, I was lazy and didn’t trim the infected leaves tips off. The leaf miner slowly spread upward 10 feet high thru the season. It took me two years to get the tree healthy again. Last week, I found only five tips at eye level. (nothing higher) on a tree that’s at least 12 feet high and wide. I get cases and cases of perfect fruit… So it’s a success.