This video provides an overview of the installation and maintenance of Halls and EDEN greenhouses, including the main frame and structure. The video also covers tips and tricks for installing the greenhouses, including choosing the right type and preparing groundworks. The Halls Greenhouses Universal installation manual is available for download, as well as the Silverline 86 LEAN TO greenhouse kit. The video also covers building and installing an auto roof vent opener, popular and supreme roof vents, and applying the rubber glazing strip.
To ensure a level and rigid greenhouse, Halls offers a simple-to-use base that can be placed directly on soil, prepared for subsequent paving installation. The area should be level to prevent the greenhouse from hovering above the ground. The video also includes assembly videos for Halls Greenhouses Eden/Cotswold right-hand door fitting instruction and Halls Qube side section. The video is a valuable resource for those interested in learning more about Halls greenhouses and their installation process.
📹 Installing A Halls Popular 86 Greenhouse
How to install the halls popular eight-six greenhouse. We’ll go over the process for installing a greenhouse this is a house popular …
What do you put in the bottom of a greenhouse?
A concrete slab base is the most durable foundation for a greenhouse, and there are various types of bases available to suit different climates and soil conditions. The primary benefit of installing a base is the ability to freeze and unfreeze the soil, which can affect the greenhouse structure over 5-7 years. There are various types of bases, including concrete slab, wood, perimeter, raised perimeter, and soil/earth. Assessing which base is best for your climate and soil conditions is crucial for selecting the right greenhouse base.
How do you attach a greenhouse?
Attaching a garden hose coupling to a water source is a simple process. Place the female coupling onto the male coupling of the water source, twist the female coupling clockwise, and secure the couplings with a quarter-turn to half-turn more. For smaller round or octagonal-shaped female couplings, a wrench may be needed, but avoid over-tightening to avoid damage to the washer and leak. Swan’s garden hoses, such as PROScape Hose and SoftTOUCH Hose, have an ergonomic female grip on the outside of the female coupling, which can be used as a wrench to tighten the connection. Larger ergonomic aluminum couplings are used on heavy-duty hoses, eliminating the need for a wrench.
How do you attach a halls greenhouse to the base?
Base plinths come with anchor spikes for each corner, designed for installation on soft ground like gravel, soil, or gravel. These spikes can be sunken into the ground and potentially cemented into place, providing a rugged way to secure the greenhouse structure. If installing on a hard surface like cement base, paving slabs, or patio bricks, the corner spikes are unnecessary. The base plinth increases the greenhouse’s overall height by 12. 8cm (5 inches), providing more internal vertical growing space, ideal for tall vine plants like tomatoes and green beans.
Where should you not put a greenhouse?
Place a greenhouse under tall trees to reduce sunlight and prevent glass damage. High walls, hedges, and trees can serve as windbreaks, providing shelter without blocking light. These barriers keep plants warm and prevent wind damage during storms. However, it’s important to ensure the trees are a suitable distance to provide shelter without blocking light. Providing ample room for cleaning and maintenance is crucial for maintaining a healthy greenhouse environment.
In what order do you glaze a greenhouse?
The sequence of glazing a given structure is contingent upon the particular circumstances of the case at hand. For example, if the greenhouse is positioned adjacent to a shed and wall, it may be necessary to glaze the sides before the entire structure is relocated with the assistance of multiple individuals.
What should a greenhouse sit on?
The foundation for a new greenhouse must be constructed in accordance with the specific location and the owner’s preferences. The construction materials that can be used for the base of the greenhouse include slabs, concrete, or bare earth. However, it is recommended that slabs be laid on a level surface, ideally using a sand and cement mixture. In the event that a slabbed or concrete area is already in place, no further action is required. The optimal foundation and base for a square, level greenhouse is a level one.
What should I put on the bottom of my greenhouse?
Greenhouse floors can be made from various materials, with poured concrete being the most ideal choice due to its ease of cleaning, drainage, and heat retention. However, there are other options available depending on the budget and considerations. Before installing the floor, it is crucial to consider factors such as time spent in the greenhouse, the longevity of different flooring materials, and the budget. Concrete, for example, can last many years, while mulch floors degrade rapidly. Ultimately, the choice should be based on the specific needs and preferences of the greenhouse.
How to fix a greenhouse to the ground?
To guarantee the security of your greenhouse, it is imperative to utilise cemented anchors for soil-based sites and to drill down deeply into hardstanding bases. It is recommended that the anchors be placed in a manner that distributes the load across all sides. Hard-standing bases, such as a concrete pad or perimeter, provide a stable foundation, facilitate maintenance of level ground, and are less susceptible to weather-related fluctuations.
Do you glaze the inside or outside first?
To glaze pottery, start by dipping the glaze into the internal area and rotating the piece to cover it. Once the glaze is completely absorbed, pour it back into the container and let it dry before applying it to the outside. The glaze will no longer shine. Brushing is the most common method for applying glaze to small items and creating detailed designs on larger pieces. A soft brush with a good amount of glaze is recommended, with hake and sumi brushes holding extra glaze for more even coverage. Fan brushes can cover large areas smoothly and evenly.
How do I keep my greenhouse from blowing away?
The video discusses various DIY solutions for securing a plastic greenhouse to the ground. Some suggest using ground anchors, digging them into solid ground, and strapping the entire greenhouse, cover, and all, firmly to the ground. Others suggest mounting the frame on wood and attaching it with pipe clips or burying the wood in a trench. To prevent the plastic cover from blowing away and tearing down the greenhouse, it is crucial to ensure that the wind doesn’t get inside or damage the cover.
The cover is hard to replace and can be difficult to repair once damaged. To prevent damage, replace Guy Ropes and Ground Pegs, as they are useless and give a false sense of security. They should be thrown in the trash as soon as possible.
📹 Halls Greenhouses: Building and Installing an Auto Roof Vent Opener
Building and installing a ventox vent opener for a Hall’s Greenhouse um the right place to do this is not out on your lawn where …
Today I have been constructing the panels of my Popular 8′ x 6′ – in the house!! Its very cold, wet & windy outside. The printed instruction manual that came with the frame is totally useless. The article above – helps but still skips over major pointers, like which way round to have certain pieces. I resorted to Halls online chat this morning, but that ended with the assistant telling me to look on YouTube! Its been an arduous task, however a call to helpline this afternoon, proved very helpful – thank you Rachel. I was directed to the assembly guide on Halls Website with clear diagrams which has helped greatly. Waiting for the opportunity to carry on with the construction over the next couple of days. Fingers crossed it all works out.
If you are using a home made wooden base, the door bottom rail has to overhang the wood by about 1 centimetre. I put the base central on the wooden sleepers and the door was jammed solid (it would not slide open or closed). I moved it to overhang and it slides perfectly now. This must happen in the article? but you do not mention it.
Yes, there has to be a space under the door rail, otherwise the door won’t slide. You can accomplish this most easily by sitting the greenhouse sill plates on small strips of wood (we use cedar here) in the following dimensions: 1 1/4″ wide by 9/16″ thick, as shown in the article. This allows the door to slide easily and keeps the sill plates elsewhere from twisting. Good luck with the glass. (Do the roof first). Brian Russell
UPDATE: 10 months since I built my Halls greenhouse. It has been excellent this summer. As stated in the comments the instructions are a bit rubbish. Tiny line drawings where you cant really see what you have to do. A bit daunting when you start to assemble it. It is actually not difficult to assemble when you know what you are doing. I used the (crappy) instructions and also this article, and between the two managed to assemble the greenhouse. The trickiest parts were the door assembly and the roof window. I fitted mine on railway sleepers as I did not like the look of the base that came with it. Make sure the door rail overhangs the sleeper (or whatever else you use by a 1/4 of an inch or it will not slide properly. Also you have to fit the rubber inserts at the same time you assemble the roof window . They do not tell you this in the instructions (it just means doing the job twice otherwise). It is the best greenhouse for the money in my opinion. Just need Halls to provide some better instructions.
Ive had this greenhouse for a couple of years now and am still quite happy with it, it has been through a few heavy storms and is still standing, lost a few panes of glass but that is to be expected. The only downpoint is the door, the plastic fixings are very flimsy and low standard but i replaced them with some i made myself. It was quite straightforward to put together as well.
Note 1: The black rubber glazing strip on the opening window only goes up to the end of the bottom glazing if you add the glazing strip all the way up the bottom bar with window opener holders will not fit throws it off by few mm of the rubber, suggest adding the glazing and cut the glazing strip to the top of of the bottom glazing then add the bar window holder at a slight angle to slide in above the bottom glazing…hope this helps a few !! Note 2: If adding rubber glazing strip in cold months bring inside drop in hot water, leave for approximately for 1 hr this helps the rubber to expand then apply to greenhouse fits like a glove.
I have 10 thumbs on my hands and I’m the undisputed king of useless when it comes to DIY but with 2 days work and couple of labourers I’m ready to install the glass in my Halls 6×8. I’m hoping I’ve done everything right so I can get it finished off tomorrow and get some plants moved in…. It’s been a fun project so far although I will say that the instructions could be clearer at times though particularly with regards which way certain pieces face. Here’s hoping I’ve done it all right…👍😆
After getting it assembled (Halls Popular) you’ll realise that 8×6 is ok for a tiny garden but that the 2ft wide door and and 4 ft eaves are too damn tight even for small gardener. I’m 5″4 and with a few plants in their its a very tight working space. Some hard won experience: Buy an extra roof vent! Small space, low roof = solar plant cooker. When you get the greenhouse buy the vent and sort the glazing changes out with the supplier. Think carefully where you want your Tomatoes and Cucumbers or other tall plants and put the vents on the other side of the roof! Budget for paving slabs! you can grow directly in greenhouse soil but manoeuvring in a 8×6 with a low roof isn’t worth it. The tiny door makes it awkward Pave the floor grow in pots and containers. Uneven ground or a slope. = Don’t dig it in flat, build it up I dug mine in and its been a soggy mess at one side every time there is heavy rain. The galvanised base (an extra from halls) is rusting badly on that side.
The instructions from Halls are useless it is ridiculous when you think how much they charge for their green houses it’s a photocopy of a photo copy and nothing more than 18 pages of smudge there are plenty of alternative Greenhouses out there who provide accurate instruction for assembly my advice is buy one of them !
WELL, FINISHED THE GREENHOUSE (FINALLY(. I AM WRITING IN CAPITALS, NOT TO SHOUT BUT I THINK IT IS EASIER TO READ. PROBLEMS THAT MIGHT OCCUR ON ASSEMBLY…… 1) IF YOU ARE USING A NON HALLS BASE (WOOD,BRICK ETC) MAKE SURE THE BOTTOM DOOR SLIDER HAS 1/4 INCH OVERHANG OVER THE EDGE OF THE BASE, OTHERWISE THE DOOR WILL NOT SLIDE. BEST TO FIT THE DOOR BEFORE YOU FIX THE GREENHOUSE TO THE BASE (SO YOU CAN CHECK IF THE DOOR SLIDES SMOOTHLY FIRST). THE article DOES NOT REALLY MENTION FITTING THE DOOR AND THIS IS THE HARDEST PART OF THE WHOLE GREENHOUSE. 2) THE OPENING ROOF WINDOW NEEDS GLAZING STRIPS FITTING BEFORE THE GLASS GOES IN OTHERWISE THE GLASS JUST RATTLES ABOUT AND YOU WILL HAVE TO TAKE THE WINDOW APART AGAIN. NO MENTION OF THIS EITHER IN THE HALLS INSTRUCTIONS OR IN THIS article. I HOPE THESE TIPS MIGHT BE SOME HELP TO SOMEONE. PLEASE MENTION THESE THINGS IF YOU MAKE AN UPDATED article. P.S I SEE SOME OF THE DOOR ISSUES ARE ADDRESSED IN PREVIOUS COMMENTS.
I could build a second one in a day, but give yourself a week to build . 80% of the instructions can be followed, use this vid to cross check. the other 20% is a pain in the butt, the instructions are wither vague or non existant and the vid also seems to leave the same pieces out. You will be pleased with it when you get it finished.