This article provides a step-by-step guide on building a dry stack retaining wall for a raised garden bed using natural field stone. The method is suitable for short walls but not for taller ones. The first step involves digging a trench 2-4 inches deep for the first installation. The dry-stack method is an easy, no-mortar way to build a stone retaining wall by stacking stones on top of each other.
A dry-stack wall is built from natural stone and involves laying a three to four-inch deep base of gravel, crushed stone, or sand as wide as the planned width of the wall, plus at least an inch on each side. As you build a row, add more gravel behind the stones and use a rock hammer to tamp gravel under/around the rocks to hold them in place.
The project area is identified, cleared, and prepared, and the puzzle pieces are sorted. A line level is run and the first course is laid, with pea gravel being used to hold the rocks in place. The soil should be leaning slightly back at an angle against the soil, supporting and stabilizing it.
The first course should be kept random, with the size of the rocks being kept random. The article also provides tips and techniques for making a DIY dry stack stone planter for the slope in the garden.
📹 Building Stone Retaining Wall 🔨🏗// Simple DIY Dry Stack Raised Bed
Learn to build a simple dry stack retaining wall for the garden, using natural field stone. Great for making inexpensive raised beds …
📹 How To Make a STONE LANDSCAPE BED BORDER | Step-by-Step Process
Want to install a new stone border around your landscape bed or garden beds? Watch this video for some great tips and tricks!
I enjoyed this, I’ve been moving a lot a rock around my property. An old German man owned the home prior and he stacked and moved rocks all around. But, many of his rock walls and gardens were in need of some repairs, as they were neglected as he grew old and had health issues. I’ve been really enjoying keeping his legacy going with all the stones. Your article was a real pleasure!
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one to experience what you went through. Too high, too low. Spend a few minutes trying to get this one to fit, only to reject it in favor of something else. Look at this angle look at that angle. Stagger the spaces. Dig a little, put some back. Finally in the end, when the last few rocks fit and make you look like you make stonewalls for a living, the feeling of real accomplishment sets in!
This is great. I learned this when working with a landscape architect in Marin Co. CA in the late 80s. I have to rebuild one wall at my house and add 2 other sections. I’ll probably do it myself as I get so much satisfaction out of the process and finished product. I can take my time and fit things such that it is clean and tight and not just have a contractor dump off a load of stone and some guys of possibly dubious skill level just pile stuff up.
Quite helpful to have your experienced guidance. Rocks sloping inward and each new course spanning the one below, for example. I also appreciate the measured patience and attention to craftsmanship. Comment on freezing a good help and important to remember. I’m in Colorado in an extremely rocky place. I see lots of really horrible rock retaining and terracing efforts. Most frequently they are tossed on a slope like a blanket, or a rock slide.
I didn’t know what this was called but tried it last year and it held for the summer . Simply from under my small deck to the ground to hide underneath. I will try to do a modification of what you’ve done with the staggering minus dirt on the other side . I think it will certainly improve stability for sure. Thanks for your wisdom. 🌟♥️🇨🇦
What “will prevent things from falling out” is to run the length of the stones into the wall, perpendicularly to the dirt it’s supposed to be holding back, not run the length of the stone parallel to the dirt it’s holding back, like he does. That mistake is called “tracing” and is why his wall keeps failing and he keeps having to rebuild it. I see these comments, like “this is the most comprehensive and helpful article on a rock wall I’ve ever seen” and “The most helpful straightforward article I’ve found on dry stacking,” but this man makes every mistake in the book. Maybe that’s what’s meant, that this is a comprehensive example article of what not to do, like he only goes to two “layers” (they’re actually called “courses”) because it’s much easier, but that’s only because he doesn’t know what he’s doing, because three courses would be much easier, especially since it’d mean building the wall up to the required height instead of below it and having the ground slope down into the top course and especially since it’d mean not having to redo it in a couple years but having it built to last decades or even centuries– a dry stack. I mean, he fails to create a foundation that’s dug deep enough or level enough, fails to set up a guide string to keep the bump of each face stone in a plane (these two failures being a big part of why his second layer is so unstable that it’s too hard for him to do a needed third layer and fourth layer called a “cope”), fails to set the foundation stones so their length runs perpendicular to the dirt the wall’s to retain back but instead traces the wall by running them parallel (the very weakest way to do a dry stack), fails to run those stones two deep such that there’s an outer stone that creates the face of the wall and an inner stone that comes into contact with the dirt and retains it back, fails to tightly wedge in hearting (smaller stones shoved into the gaps between the face stones and the stones behind them forming the interior face stones that face into the dirt–hearting being like the filling in a foundation-stone sandwich–in order to then have a level course to set the next course) or pinning (smaller stones wedged lengthwise into gaps in the face stones to stabilize them and to work with the inner hearting to create a level surface for the second course), fails to establish a consistent batter both interiorly and along the face (the batter being the angle of slope of the wall with the face stones angling back planarly and the interior foundation stones angling at an upright 90 degrees from the ground below rather than also angling back as their 90 degree angle will be kept from tipping forward by the face stones, hearting and pinning and shouldn’t lean back towards the hill like the face stones because then you have a heavy wall whose weight isn’t being redistributed stably straight down into the earth but a wall resting on its back such that its weight is being transferred along the slope of thill and so in short order will result in that wall sliding down the hill.
Very helpful article. Thank you. I have a question. Do you ever begin a short wall like this with the rocks two deep on the bottom, and then sort of wedge the second layer between/on top of the two rows on the bottom? That is what I’m trying right now. I’m making a raised bed, only maybe five, six inches raised, and I’m using much smaller rocks than what you use in this article, a quarter or less than the size you have. It seems like if I get them situated right, it can be quite sturdy. Wondering if you’ve tried it that way? Thanks so much.
I’m in zone 9a and my street always floods onto my lawn about a 1/4 to 1/2 way in. People always drive on my lawn making a mess! I’m trying to deter that so, I was thinking about a rock wall like this. Do you think that would work for me ? It is a heavy traffic street …the waves of 💦 may be a concern. What do you think 💭.
Thank you so much for sharing this. Just researching to learn more, I want to border a spot in the yard for berry bushes. Learned a lot from this! Thank you for sharing your joy of this work as well as your grateful and humble spirit in doing your best. You are making the world a more beautiful place both on and off line!
I’m a novice “waller” and have been doing a lot of research before i atempt my first wall. All research say to “not” put the long face of the stone as facing. Best to put the length of the stone in this creating the strongest possible wall. It is tempting to put the long face out because u cover more distance, however, this practice promotes a weaker wall. Very respectfully, DS
Just need to be careful about what weather zone you live in. I live up near Canada on the US boarder in Ohio. We always dig down below the frost line about 40″. If there is a slope that allows drainage be installed at bottom of trench, we install black 4″ drain Poole, cover with coarse gravel and use a plate compactor to remove voids. Next we take a lazar level and level all the footer heights. If on a long slope we will stair step footers below grade and stack the stone a little further below grade in those areas. We do all this because the walls tend to heave in the winter and over time then walls can become unstable. Looks lien these walls are being installed further south.
Thank you for sharing. Great article. Excellent workmanship. I have a question – I am reparing the rocks surrounding an old bed… these rocks are not all “flat” and I wondered if there is a modified method – perhaps that uses dabs of cement in between crevices of the stones to fortify the structure given the lack of uniformity of thickness of the stones…. have you any experience that you can share on this? The preexisting layers of rock around a garden are coming unhinged after many years… my thought was to remove the rocks, grade the ground, and start fresh using the same rocks…. perhaps there is another article for this type of technique that you can suggest for achieving a high quality outcome? Thank you!
I’ve been landscaping 25 years in California. Built just a few dry stack flagstone walls like this. I just realized I was doing it wrong! I always backfilled with just native soil. Using gravel as you pointed out gives it strength and stability. Adding many more years of enjoyment. Great job young man! I’m excited to do my next stone wall like this.
Loved perusal you both do this, for what me and my neighborhood here would consider, the good ol’ fashioned way…. you even just used a piece of stone to do the job of what would have been done with a tool made for tamping 🙂 Came to your article cause wife n me are wanting to build 1-2 foot high rock walls around the oak and maple trees in our yard. So would have a circular rock wall around the tree, but its difficult finding articles that pertain to our type of job that we’re wanting to do. Well keep up the good work guys!
Great work! Beautiful! I had started on my smaller project then took a break & found your article! Needless to say, I realized I was doing things all wrong! Stopped where I was and headed to the home store for some gravel. I do have a question about what to do if your area is uneven, as in, one side is about 15 inches lower. I’m guessing I need to start at that side & work my way around so the top layer of stone is level. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Great job. I have a similar, but much smaller planting bed our landscapers put in front of our front porch. Now, after 10 years, the soil is washing out one side. I’m not sure how to fix without dismantling the whole side nor do I know if it’s something best left to the professionals to repair or if it an easy diy fix. With mature Hostas, Ivy, Creeping Jenny, weed barrier and bark mulch, I don’t know how to go about fixing without damaging the plants. Any thoughts?
Haha nice design and job well done!! Ben u r acting like the Egyptian Task Master of the Moses time to poor Ethan!!!! Please pay Ethan Sleepy Biden’s new minimum wages $15s /hr.!!!! 😜 And I will see if you r still in the gardening business!!! 😜 One more Idea to earn more money make Ethan dance to house owners.. A good dance from his school. Probably you will get more money for bringing school dance to house owners door step!!! 😜 Any way.. It was a good article. I am happy to see Ethan working with you n learning gardening. Love you Ethan for all your good gardening work!! And God bless you!!! . 💐 😇😇🎁👏👏 Ethan is the Hero of the day!!! 😜