Houseplants have been found to improve health by promoting breathing, productivity, reduced stress and anxiety, and a happier outlook. They also help with healing and clearing the air of toxins. The best indoor plants for health include Peace Lilies, which are members of the genus Spathiphyllum, which have a positive impact on mental health.
Houseplants can also help with healing, as they consume oxygen during the night, which can be dangerous. Overwatering plants can lead to mold growth on the soil, which can trigger allergies and asthma symptoms. Indoor plants can also affect participants’ functions positively, particularly those of relaxed physiology and enhanced cognition. However, the fine powder from the husks can cause increased health risks for workers, including many debilitating lung diseases.
Indoor plants may help reduce stress levels, sharpen attention, and work with plants can be therapeutic. Some plants can even remove pollutants from the air, but this is barely noticeable. Overall, houseplants not only look good but also support human health in homes, offices, schools, and hospitals.
In conclusion, houseplants are beneficial for various aspects of our lives, including their physical appearance, mental health, and overall wellbeing. While some plants may not be as noticeable as others, they can provide numerous benefits, including improved sleep, improved memory, productivity, and improved air quality. It is essential to choose the right indoor plants for your specific needs and preferences to ensure their long-term health benefits.
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How many house plants does NASA recommend?
NASA recommends the planting of one plant for every 100 square feet of surface area, which equates to a density of approximately nine plants per 100 square feet. Two square meters are recommended for residences with an area of 1800 square feet, which is equivalent to 167 square meters. In a residence of 1, 800 square feet, the recommendation is to have 15 to 18 plants. The “Clean-Air Study,” conducted by NASA, underscores the salutary impact of plants on human well-being. Astronauts, too, have benefited from the presence of plants in their oxygen-optimized space stations.
Do house plants actually clean the air?
The belief that plants clean indoor air is rooted in a 1989 NASA study that found that houseplants can absorb carbon dioxide and remove volatile organic compounds (VOCs). This led to numerous studies confirming that houseplants can reduce pollutants like formaldehyde and benzene, which cause health issues like respiratory problems and cancer. However, a 2019 meta-analysis review found that to achieve the same benefits, one would need 10-1, 000 plants per square meter of floor space in a home, office, or other indoor environment.
Researchers used past research observations, standardized metrics, and extrapolated findings to larger rooms and a larger number of plants. They found that natural ventilation would be most effective in removing indoor VOCs, unless there are 680 plants in a 1, 500 square foot home or office.
Do houseplants have a lifespan?
House plants’ lifespan varies depending on various factors, with an average lifespan of 2-5 years. However, most plants die sooner due to improper care. In theory, house plants can live forever with proper care and growth, with some living decades or centuries. External factors and unmet needs can cause plants to die. This article provides tips on how to keep indoor plants happy and healthy for years to come, with the average lifespan depending on the type of plant and the level of commitment to their care. Some indoor plant types can live up to 20 years.
Why shouldn’t you have plants in your room?
Plants in bedrooms do not cause carbon dioxide poisoning as they stop photosynthesis when light is turned off, releasing CO2 in the dark. However, any plant small enough to fit in a bedroom produces far less carbon dioxide than a sleeping human and is safe to share a room with. Some plants may die of old age, while others may be better at sucking up carbon dioxide. It is possible that an intelligent species could evolve on Earth that breathes carbon dioxide, and the number of plants needed in an airtight room to be able to breathe is not known.
Are indoor plants bad for health?
Kathy Kennedy, a master gardener at Farm Chastain, suggests that plants can improve air quality by replacing carbon dioxide with fresh oxygen. Houseplants can remove cancer-causing chemicals like formaldehyde and benzene from the air, and the soil in potted plants can also clean indoor air. Microorganisms in the soil also help clean the air, and they have anti-depressive effects. The bigger and leafier the plant, the better it is for air quality. Garvey recommends peace lilies, bamboo, aloe vera, figs, and Boston ferns.
Is it healthy to sleep with plants in the bedroom?
Plants in your bedroom not only provide safety but also offer several benefits. They can improve air quality by removing toxins, as found in NASA’s Clean Air Study. Greenery also promotes better sleep due to its calming effect on the mind. Aromatic plants like lavender can also promote a good night’s sleep. Additionally, being around nature can enhance mood and reduce stress levels, making plants an ideal addition to your sleeping space. Overall, plants offer numerous health benefits.
Is it bad to sleep next to a plant?
Plants undergo two essential processes: photosynthesis and respiration. During the day, plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen through photosynthesis. At night, they respire, taking in oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide, similar to humans. This has raised concerns about depleting oxygen levels in the bedroom. However, the amount of carbon dioxide released by plants at night is minimal and unlikely to significantly impact the room’s oxygen levels. Some plants, like the Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue, continue to release oxygen even during the night, making them an excellent choice for bedrooms.
What are the disadvantages of houseplants?
Houseplants can be a source of health hazards, as they can harbor fungal spores and bacteria. Hospitals often ban potted plants due to increased safety and hygiene standards, rather than health concerns. However, healthy people are not affected by these microorganisms, as they are constantly surrounded by them in their everyday lives. Regular care is crucial in the bedroom, as spore load in the air can increase if plants start to mold.
While plants in the bedroom have disadvantages, they also offer advantages such as their beautiful appearance, providing a unique homeliness, and providing a better indoor climate. Air-purifying plants absorb pollutants like formaldehyde or cigarette smoke, which can positively affect health. Some plants, like CAM plants, produce oxygen at night, providing good air even during the dark hours. Lemon balm, for example, is an insider tip against mosquitoes due to its pleasant scent. Overall, plants in the bedroom can provide both aesthetic and health benefits.
Do plants take toxins out of the air?
Plants can efficiently remove most pollutants from the air, including harmful petrol-related pollutants like benzene, in just hours. The more concentrated the toxins in the air, the faster and more effective the plants become at removing them. This demonstrates that plants adapt to their growing conditions, as they can remove toxins more efficiently. The findings were confirmed after installing plants in hundreds of office buildings across the US.
Can indoor plants get diseases?
Houseplant diseases are often secondary symptoms caused by poor environmental conditions and care. These diseases are typically caused by fungi, bacteria, or viruses. Providing a proper plant-growing environment can prevent these diseases. Gray mold, leaf spots, viruses, crown and/or root rot, and powdery mildew are some of the diseases that can affect houseplants. Gray mold is a tan, papery patch on leaves and flowers, often covered with gray, fuzzy masses.
Leaf spots are brown to black spots on leaves that enlarge with age, often with fruiting structures. Viruses cause color break, off-color patterns, ringspot, and blight. Crown and/or Root Rot is caused by water mold and fungi, causing dark, mushy, limp, easily broken roots. Powdery mildew starts as small powdery colonies and advances across leaves, often caused by overcrowding, low light, poor air circulation, and high humidity. Addressing the primary issue caused by poor environment or care is often more effective.
Do houseplants absorb toxins?
NASA scientists conducted research on the potential of plants to clean the air, revealing that many houseplants are effective in removing toxins found in indoor environments. The research also found that microorganisms in the potting soil also contribute to air cleaning, provided leaves and other detritus are not covering the soil. The most common toxins removed by plants include formaldehyde, benzene, acetone, ammonia, trichloroethylene, and carbon monoxide. Formaldehyde pollution can be found in wood floorboard resins, pressed wood products, furniture, exhaust fumes, fabric treatments, and heating and cooking fuels.
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Ironically, sometimes giving up can be the best thing for the plant. I’ve had that experience (gave up on a herb for it just dying inside, threw it on the balcony in the cooling fall weather to wait for throwing it in the trash, stopped watering it and all. The dead plant started thriving there) and my friend as well, who had a plant that was just dying in their home no matter how they tried to take care of it. They threw it outside and stopped paying any attention to it and from dying stated it started growing happily. Sometimes they just want to be neglected in a less than optimal environment I guess. Of course you talk about giving up in whole. I agree, I always had my green thumb in the middle of my palm (combining two local sayings) and struggled to keep them alive, but little by little by studying and perusal articles like these I’m getting to understand my plants.
How very true are the statements about overwatering and over-fertilizing. For years I watered every week regardless of the plant. Additionally, I fertilized at the same time. My plants were a disaster! Then a friend told me she didn’t fertilize so I stopped completely and eventually only used a very small amount a few times during the summer months. I greatly limited watering, too. My plants are truly amazing now. How I wish I had learned this years ago.
Some things I’ve learned over the years having plants is, less is much better than more, like, less watering, less sun, less fertilizer, it’s like seasoning your food with less salt than necessary, because you can correct the amount of salt if it’s less, but if you get the amount of salt wrong, it’s quite difficult to make a food less salty. Also, another thing I’ve learned is, there were sometimes that you’ll encounter with a quite challenging plant with it needs, and normally they just got weaker and not matter what you do, they can’t keep up, so in my case, rather to expending too much energy and time on that plant, I just gave them a new life, I turn them into compost and with that compost I feed my other plants, it sounds kinda rude, but for me, that’s the cycle live I give to my plants.
I just discovered your articles this morning and am so pleased I did! I’m now the owner of a lot more houseplants, thanks to moving and gaining more space. I’ve always accorded my plants scant respect – the sink or swim approach – but NO MORE! Your tips and advice are so clearly given, and make such good sense. Thank you very much – I’m going to be the owner of a happier bunch of green companions!
This is awesome! One note I would add is that gravel mixed into soil does reduce the usable space in the pot, but it does help it to dry out faster for that exact reason. Some plants prefer small pockets of soil, filled with rocky gravel (mostly desert plants) because they dont hold water, and they replace soil that would be holding water, helping the pot dry out faster (like how small pots dry faster, its less to dry)
I am not in the UK but in a desert-like weather zone. I learned my lessons that all my succulents and cacti prefer shady areas rather than full sunlight. Otherwise, they get sun burn! I can understand succulents but cacti? Don’t they love sun? Heck, it is what it is. As long as they are happy in the shades, I am okay. Although we are in different weather zones, I can still apply some of your words of wisdom except sun-related matters 🙂 I have subscribed.
Gravel in the bottom of a planter is not the same as gravel in a pot with drainage holes. You put the plant in a pot with drainage holes into a planter with gravel in its bottom to actually allow for drainage. Then water into the planter, not the top of the pot soil. This will keep the surface dry and reduce fungal growth and the arrival of fungus gnats (sciarid flies).
The gravel will actually lead to root rot too. The bottom of the soil holds onto water more than the rest of the soil so if you move the base of the soil up it’s reaching more of the roots. You can test this with a sponge and you’ll notice that most if the sponge goes dry while some of it collects at the bottom
In regards to the last bit. I have had multiple people tell me they wish the could grow what I grow (indoors &outdoors) but I always tell them that “Inside every master garden is a plant serial killer” 🤣. In other words we call kill plants but we learn. Hell, even now my garden that those people loved last spring not requires a ton of work after the drought this summer. Sometimes the best way is to start with something extra simple like an indoor vine. Then immediately try to propagate so you have some additional plants (just incase) to help you figure out where something is going wrong. Seriously, the basic vines are so easy to propagate that it helps you move forward over the loss of the original plant if you have multiple propagations from it. I used to try the gravel in the very beginning but now I use an unbleached paper coffee filter at the very bottom of the pot to allow for drainage. Watering is always an issue for me during seasonal changes 😅 always an adjustment.
Nice. Probably the only exceptions to ‘not in full sun’ for houseplants would, of course, be cacti and most succulents, which want as much full sun as you can give them. Even then, cacti as houseplants, even on the most sunny window sill never will match those grown in a greenhouse. My 30 year old Ferocactus (which I grew from seed) has spent the last 24 years indoors (and its first 6 years in a greenhouse, which I no longer had access to when moving) and has etiolated as a result. It’s still healthy though despite being half the width and twice the height it would normally be at this age ! Oh and carnivorous plants too, full sun for them.
First, I would like to say, thank you for your extremely useful and informative articles. You just seem to know what problems we encounter and can get so frustrated over. I did chuckle at one point when you were fiddling with your green and pink leaf begonia. I have exactly the same one, and I love it! My daughter bought it, came to me for help potting it then almost promptly killed it with love, JUST like you say in this article! I am going to send this to her so hopefully the plants she has left in her apartment WILL survive! So, thank you for doing her a great service 😁👏🏻🌿🌵🌱❤ Next, I too have been guilty of putting gravel in the bottom of pots. My mum, who had an extremely green thumb, taught me to do this. It wasn’t a really thick layer just a very small amount, usually around the outside of the inside of the pot. The gravel size being just a little bigger than the holes in the pot. The reason she told me to do this wasn’t actually to do with drainage, it was about soil loss. She told me that if you put soil directly into the bottom of the pot some of it, a small amount, would come out through those holes every time you lifted the pot, like the mistake of constantly moving it, or even if you water it too vigorously. This was true at the time, as I witnessed when she demonstrated what she meant to me. Nowadays though there are things you can buy that are made to help with this problem, or you may make up your own. Instead of spending g money on fancy solutions I like putting in a piece of chux or something similar (I live in Australia so I don’t know if you have it there.
Ok, can I just say how refreshing it is as a beginner to have advice from someone who is concise and knowledgeable! I really appreciate the way you explain things without all the crazy editing, music and chat that goes along with so many other articles! My brain can actually absorb your advice!!! I have a tall snake plant that Ive had for 8 months-ish. I have been keeping it in our north-ish facing bathroom and seems to be doing ok (no thinning of leaves ect) after perusal your article on snake plants not liking too much moisture and enjoying full light better I am tempted to move it. Now, this article says don’t move and I’m conflicted. Do I keep it where it is or move it to my south facing living room!? I’m a plant killer but really really trying so would appreciate anyone’s advice on this 😂 Thank you!
☕️ ☕️ Good morning BRO, i’m Nido, your NEW SUBSCRIBER from the Philippines, 🇵🇭 i learned so much from you, most especially the care tips, i’m a PLANTITO or another term in the Philippines who loves plants 🪴 or someone who cares a lot about plants. I’m a simple gardener, your articles are very informative, straightforward & based on SCIENCE as well, you are one of my favorite plant article shows and PLANTERINA 😃 PERFECT for my morning coffee, MORE POWER! MABUHAY! 🪴⚘️🌷🌻🦋🦋🦋
This issue is far more complex than being discussed in this forum! Not all gravel is good for horticulture, yes, it does stop the holes in a pot from being blocked but it can also become a wet sump! Hard, smooth gravels have low water and nutrient absorbency (Cation Exchange Capacity). When parked in the bottom of a pot as a group the gaps between these “pebbles” have a strong water surface tension capability, retaining water that cannot drain away or be drawn up by the plant. Horticultural substrates are designed to be absorbent and, because they have a rougher surface giving them a higher surface area they not only absorb micronutrients but create a lower water surface tension avoiding a wet sump! This applies equally to substrates that include high levels of fine sand, organic matter and horticultural grits, both of which can deny the substrate of air pockets and promote compaction! There are a number of Hydroponic substrates available which give a consistent water retention and nutrient capacity. Most are based on high temperature baked clays, however, they are often expensive. Bonsai enthusiasts have discovered diatomaceous earth (Molar Clay) a calcined hard clay product which is capable of holding moisture, not free water, whilst still allowing good air circulation within the pot and because it’s a clay, is second only to organic matter in capturing micro nutrients and releasing them to the plant! So there is gravel and there is gravel! By all means drop in a layer of hydroponic pebbles, pumice or lava rocks as base drainage but leave the granites, flints and builders sand out!
I have what was sold to me as a philodendron Florida Ghost. I think It may well be one… But I put the root in well-draining soil with plenty of perlite. When I got the cutting it had a substantial root on it and one leaf. This remains to this day… 15 months later. I’ve tried moving it (not often, twice) to see how it responds to less and more light. I’ve tried watering it less often (once every 3 weeks, to watering once a week). In Canada, where I am, there is significantly less light in winter (as in the UK, only a little less severe). I expected at least one new leaf last summer, but nothing happened… What do you think?
As an agronomist i’m horrified by people fertilizing their house plant. That a very very polluting practice and totally useless (and expensive) if soil is good quality and repotting frequent enough. Plus, organic matter (ie compost liquid) is largely enough for high demanding plants. In fact soil in topical forest is very poor (btw that partially why deforestation go always further because the soil is very superficial) so exotic house plants don’t need fertilizer that just for making money that this stuff exist. And i dont even dare talking about fertilizing CACTUS like…. that on of the most bullsh1t stuff on earth 🥲
So, I took a Purple Shamrock, pressed it into a scooped out a banana with some soil, then wrapped it in a nylon stocking with orange peels, perforated a water bottle and filled it with peanut butter and a tea bag, then…. Nah, Actually I just left it alone. It looks great. Funny how they know what they’re doing. -_^ Few drops of water now and then. (Me to houseplants) You guys are doing awesome! I’m gonna just go prune the Pothos for a new pot! (Houseplants) wink
I always use either stones or expanded clay at the bottom of my nursery pots, but I only use it for covering the holes of the pot so the soil doesn’t clog it. It’s a very small amount of either. Is that also bad? New plant mom here, sorry if it’s a silly question 🙂 Thank you for all your articles, I love your content 🙂
Use a few leca pebbles at the bottom of most of my plants. Even though they have drainage holes. But I’m essentially growing all my succulents in rock substrates anyway. Pumice, broken brick, lava rock. It’s almost impossible to over-water them (almost) since the water just flows right through and then dries out quickly because of the air movement between the rocks.
r.e. Gravel in the bottom of the pot. If a shallow layer of gravel results in too little soil, then I need a deeper pot. But I use the smallest gravel I can without it leaving via the drain holes. Using my trusty drill, I also usually add drain holes to my pots. I also use pebbles that have rounded edges. River rock over driveway gravel. I don’t KNOW that the sharp edges of the gravel would cut or damage the roots but as I have an option, I err on the side of caution. I also buy the smallest roll of screen wire I can purchase, Steel will rust so the options left are stainless steel, aluminum, and nylon. Both the metal ones can be unfriendly to your scissors and your skin. I then cut a piece of the screen to cover the rock, and then my soil on top of that. Also be aware that screen wire has different sizes of mesh. If the mesh is too fine, then it may not drain as you wish. Pet stores that sell aquarium supplies are a great source for the type of rock I use. I also use the small colored aquarium gravel as a top dressing for some of my plants. i.e. I have an Old Lady Cactus that loves to strut her white fuzzies. I painted her pot glossy black and used black aquarium gravel as a top dressing. The old girl looks gorgeous. I think I have mentioned before that it’s all about finding what works for your plants in your specific environment. And of course doing research for each and every plant you have. I have a Hoya, (Hindu Rope Plant) that actually prefers to be in a pot that looks way too small.
From my experience with cactus which absolutely cannot tolerate high water table or wet soil, I noticed that using a porous rock like pumice or lava rock (the one used in barbecue grill) instead of rocks /gravels will prevent the high water table problem. And it is literally the only material that can safely retain soil moisture for cactus without root rots
I finally got my 1st monstera,I got it home,transplanted it,and went to wipe off each leaf,only to discover little rusty yellow spots,on top,and underneath the spots had a coating that could be wiped off ! I kept it separate from the rest of my plants,wiped all leaves off with a damp cloth with dawn,and a few drops of vinegar, but they came back but just a few,I got it from Lowe’s 1/2 price sale,I have never had problems b4 after all these years 😢oh can’t find my recept, and don’t have the money,to replace the dirt I bought,for the plant even if I could exchange it😢
When I give up on a plant it’s because I’m disgusted with it. Not knowing what to do, I threw it away and BEHOLD, it improved. I did that with my Echeveria Agavoides. Now she is over 4 years old, beautiful and huge. It’s a good thing she ended up in the trash, as that’s the way I learned she did not like being in the sun.
It’s been many, many years since I have brought plants into my home…. This year I begin to garden outside again…. Because I live under trees and their root system fortunately are very strong which makes it almost impossible to dig holes…. So I have gone back to outdoor potted plants… When I tipped over old pots with soil where there had not been any plants in them that we’re not still alive or just weeds growing… I noticed that the pots that had the stones at the bottom for drainage had the best soil and also had worms living and thriving…. I personally will keep stones as drainage at the bottom of my pots…. Because looking back the pots that had drainage rocks live the longest….. Plus I believe that the worms use the rocks to cool down their bodies or even get small fragments to digest their food…. I was taught by the old Japanese about putting drainage rocks in my potted plants… So I will keep that old wise tale…. Thank you for those in the past that have taught me so well….
About watering especially plants who do not require so much light!!!!!!! I keep notes of how hot it has been during the week and how much sun on that window and I water accordingly….. But people come over and give them water from their bottle, idk why people come to people house doing these things at all?. When we know what we are doing, which is why our plants last all year long and are green and healthy!
😂YOU FORGOT TO MENTION THAT PEOPLE WITH CATS DONT HAVE NICE PLONTS🤙 Montana is a little different on care for plonts, especially in the winter. The soil dries out super fast and even the plonts that I have as starters and just growing in containers with straight water or damp moss. I try to TALK to the plonts when I do anything other than just watering them, kinda a let them know what I’m doing and mention it’ll be better after 🤷🏻♂️ I have pineapple plants I try to water down their leaves
If you have a Norfolk Island Pine 🌲and do not mist occasionally, like three times a week and keep soil moist, you will have a lot of dry needles that fall off. Even branches. Our year round temperature is 77° F and average humidity is 55 %. Still these conditions are not good enough for our Norfolk Island Pine two feet from South facing window. When I mist this tree/bush I mist the needles, the stems and the trunk. The trunk stems are nice and green. Skip misting for two weeks and browing starts. Just saying 👨🏾🌾
Gravel or rocks in the bottom of the pot is pointless. The only thing that determines how much water drains is the texture of the soil. The finer the texture of the soil the more water it will hold. There have been studies on this. They never put gravel in pots at the nursery and pretty sure they would since gravel is way cheaper than potting soil.
Can you please tell us how often some of the basic plants need watering? And literally how much to give water at a time? I often think about if I am giving it too much or too little, a cup or a glass, 200ml or 50ml? And how often. There are just two plants that I water more than others because their leaves show me that they need it… and all others I water every two weeks. I would really like to know more about how to give them proper amount and at a perfect frequency. Please help
While I agree that if your lucky and can consistently find a plastic nursery pot that fits nicely in the pot you want to use, it’s super. However and with much respect, you’re incorrect that this method is wrong or bad for plants. 1) Sometimes you can not make a match between standard plastic nursery pot sizes and the pot you’d like the plant in. 2) If you’re dealing with a large plant, it’s simply not feasible to water a plant and then pour out the excess. 3) I’ve worked with plants for years and we’ve professionally, depending on the types of plants, used all kinds of things to fill the bottom of a pot. This is to either reduce the insane cost you’d endure to fill a large pot with potting soil or, especially when the plant or collection of plants are located outside on a patio or in your garden, to reduce the chances of your soil becoming to dense from natural rainfall. There is no difference between your plant’s roots reaching the bottom of the pot or reaching a stone layer. Rarely if ever have I seen a plant where a (a) root has gone rogue and tried to burrow down through the stone…and never have I seen the roots go all willy nilly and grow down into the stone. They bend and curl around in the soil just as if they’d hit a pot bottom. Plants are smart and want to remain where the nutrients are. 🌱👍
Some plants do benefit from heavy misting though, don’t they? Lots of tropical plants need rainfall to keep their leaves clean of insects. There are some plants here in the tropics that need some water going over them every week or two, otherwise they become dry and get problems with dust accumulation and red spider mite infestations. These plants need the physical action of the water passing over their leaves in order to stay clean and prevent these mite infestations
Out of topic question. Your accent, they way you pronounce the letter A like if it’s a double aa or even triple aaa, like in the word plant, you say it like ”plaant” and ”plaaants”, is that a Sheffield thing? Does this accent have a naaame? It’s funny but also interesting, it reminds me of Norse sounds.
We lost 25 plants to fungus gnats that were coming from orchid bark.. We didn’t check the new bag before using it for our soil mix and the spread was so aggressive since it was during summer when it was humid as hell here (80%) und we had to water the plants a lot. I am still mourning, money eating away by gnats and nothing helped. ): Thats a tip I would recommend: ALWAYS check your new bought soil throughly for little bugs, spiders, white little flies and well.. larvae and literally gnats.
my grandmother gardened & kept house plants for “45”+ years ! 1960-2006 in SANTA CLARA CALIFORNIA USA🇺🇸 she taught me everything i know since i was a child in 1970s ! out & indoors and growing non common vegetables like artichokes & asparagus and more “huge ROSE bushes turned into tree trunks and Roses bigger than a aver man’s hands ! today 3 of her tiny jade plants are 4 to 5 ft JADE TREES ! at my brothers house – i have pictures for proof her 3 different colored CHRISTMAS CACTUS – 3 different large pots •are HUGE & full & long !!! unbelievable and this is typical for Santa Clara California region ! ITS NOT HUMID there – the complete opposite Never misted her TROPICAL plants inside ! MANY HOUSE PLANTS !!BIG – my brother took alot because he makes his own tiny bricks and makes his own underwater CASTLES for his BONSI trees for 22 yrs now ‼️ yes yes yes then i now hear youtube people randomly saying don’t do this and don’t do that – they do not have 40-50-60 years of experience with house plants – i am 100% sure my point is = different CLIMATE conditions will change everything! LIGHT EXPOSE to – where the house plant sits northern california where i grew up – my brother still 5 min drive from our old house ! his house is full of house plants of ever type ! he is 51 yrs old and i am 55 yrs old … it does matter ! yet northern California all the way to Wine Country – Sonoma & NAPA and on down pasts to San Diego = EVERYTHING LIVES !!! this is why in 1900-1960s everyone wanted to live there 1940s was huge boom in growing fields of vegetables there to this day is GARLIC & ARTICHOKE CAPITAL of THE WORLD .