Are Orchid Blossoms Waterproof?

Orchids need regular and consistent watering to ensure their health and bloom. A good rule of thumb is to water every 4 to 10 days, but this should be adjusted based on the conditions in your home and the specific needs of your orchid. To water, fill a container with water, place the wick or bulb in the container, and insert the wick or bulb into the soil. The water will gradually seep into the soil, and the roots should never sit in water as orchids are prone to root rot.

Orchids naturally grow on trees in the rainforest, so they like to be showered with water and naturally. To prevent overwatering, follow the right care routine, especially with watering. If the pot is big enough (like 7 inches), water the orchid just once every 7 days. For smaller pots, water them once every 7 days.

Watering orchids slightly more during blooming is necessary because it will lose additional water through its flowers. Any roots that grew in the air or substrate will not survive in water. Transition plants carefully by rotating between wet and dry, such as two days of soaking in water and five days of drying out.

There are three key ways to water orchids indoors: 1) using a traditional houseplant, 2) applying a splash of water to the moss once every seven to 10 days, and 3) watering in the morning to ensure any stray splashes on the leaves evaporate throughout the warmer temperatures. Water availability is critical for floral longevity, and it is essential to let your orchids be your guide when watering.


📹 Orchid Q&A#43 – Better growth with drying out, roots not growing & more!

Today I respond to the questions you left in the comment section of my videos in the past week! More info below! Orchids can …


Do orchids do well in the shower?

Orchids, tillandsias, and bromeliads are epiphytes that grow without soil, often from humid tropical rainforests. They thrive in a steamy shower with natural light. Asbell’s orchids were placed in a shower sponge, surrounded by orchid bark. Another option is burlap or cheesecloth. The plants were then placed in a wire shower caddy, topped with moisture-seeking tillandsias. Twist ties secure the orchids in the caddy.

Is it OK to leave orchids in the rain?

To ensure the health of your orchid, avoid keeping it outdoors during a rainstorm as too much moisture can encourage fungal growth. However, you can bring it out after a storm to absorb residual moisture. Orchids are sensitive to light and moisture, so don’t leave them outside for more than a few hours at a time. During summer nights, they prefer cooler environments, so if the temperature drops to 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit, leave them on a screened patio. If the temperature doesn’t drop, move them inside overnight. Keep them away from direct airflow from fans or air conditioners.

Can you keep orchids in the shower?

Asbell’s orchids thrive in a steamy shower with natural light. They are placed in a plastic sponge, surrounded by orchid bark, and then placed in a wire shower caddy. They are secured with twist ties and moisture-seeking tillandsias. The orchids are fed with shower spray once a week and are happy with the warm steam and partial sunshine. An alternative to burlap or cheesecloth is used for planting pouches.

How do I know if my orchid is too wet?
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How do I know if my orchid is too wet?

Orchids are popular indoor plants, but their care can be challenging due to overwatering. Common symptoms include yellowing leaves, brown spots, wilted leaves, soft, mushy roots, rot smell, and lack of new leaves or flowers. Overwatering can cause root rot, which can ultimately kill the plant. To rescue an overwatered orchid with root rot, it is crucial to identify the problem, treat it, and prevent it in the future.

Common symptoms include yellowing leaves, brown spots, wilted leaves, soft, mushy roots, rot smell, and lack of growth of new leaves or flowers. Understanding the basic needs of orchids is essential for their successful care.

Are orchids ok in bathrooms?

Given their tropical provenance, orchids flourish in environments characterised by high humidity, rendering them particularly well-suited to cultivation in bathrooms. They are not particularly sensitive to light intensity, provided that it is not excessive.

Do orchids love rain?
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Do orchids love rain?

In the rainy season, it is crucial to adjust the frequency and amount of water given to orchids to prevent diseases like root rot. Rainfall provides enough water for orchids, and they may even need less water than usual. The type of substrate used for planting should also be considered. If the substrate retains a lot of moisture, it may need to be watered less frequently. Conversely, if the substrate drains quickly, it may need to be increased.

Observing orchids closely for signs of water imbalance is also crucial. If leaves appear limp or yellowish, they may be getting too much water, while wrinkled or dry leaves may need more watering. Adjusting the frequency and amount of water during the rainy season will help keep them healthy and prevent diseases related to excess moisture.

To avoid excess humidity and prevent diseases, ensure good drainage in pots and place stones or pottery at the bottom to improve drainage. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to the appearance of fungi and diseases. Before watering, inspect the substrate to ensure it is dry to the touch.

Avoid wetting leaves and flowers during rainy days, as excess moisture can promote fungal diseases. Place orchids in protected areas, such as under a roof or inside a greenhouse, and regularly clean leaves to remove residue or standing water accumulation. By following these tips, you can keep your orchids healthy and prevent problems caused by excess humidity during the rainy season.

Is it OK to keep orchids in water?
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Is it OK to keep orchids in water?

Orchids can be grown in water, but it’s not the most common method of cultivation. This method is more suitable for experienced gardeners who can monitor the plant’s health and well-being. It requires careful attention to detail, including maintaining proper water quality, ensuring adequate oxygen levels for roots, and providing appropriate support. For new gardeners, it may be advisable to start with traditional growing methods like using well-draining potting mixtures.

However, not all orchids can thrive in water environments, and the success depends on factors like the species, natural habitat, and indoor conditions. Some species are more adaptable to water culture, while others prefer traditional growing methods. Ultimately, growing orchids in water is more suitable for experienced gardeners.

Can orchid flowers get wet?

Orchids thrive in humid environments, such as dappled shade of trees, where the air is moist but not stagnant. However, it is important to avoid getting water on the leaves and flowers, as this can cause damage. Orchid watering is the number one tip to keep your plant healthy, but it can be confusing for beginners. One common mistake is overwatering, which can drown or contribute to rotting roots. To avoid this, it is essential to understand the basics of orchid watering and make it a routine as easy as brushing your teeth. Overwatering can lead to a rotting root system and drown the plant.

How long do orchid flowers last in water?

Orchids need more water if their leaves, stem, or petals lose vibrancy or turn grey or yellow. They are naturally bright and colorful, and with proper water, they can stay that way for up to a week. Cut orchids should not be placed in direct light, as they thrive in tropical environments and prefer a good sunbathing experience. Orchids grow in lush jungles and forests with a thick canopy, so they need to be protected from direct sunlight.

Is tap water bad for orchids?
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Is tap water bad for orchids?

Tap water is generally suitable for use with orchids in some states due to its low dissolved solids content. However, in many states, tap water has too many dissolved solids, making it difficult for orchid hobbyists to understand the issue. There are four types of water used: rain, RO, tap, and well.

The quality of water directly impacts the quality of the fertilizing solution used on orchids. If the pH is too high or low, the orchids may not be able to consume all the nutrients provided in the fertilizer, leading to nutrient deficiencies. The type of water and fertilizer also affect the pH of the resulting fertilizer and water solution.

To test the pH of the fertilizing solution, pH test strips are the simplest method. pH is affected by two primary factors: the pH of the fertilizing solution and the pH of the orchid mix. Over time, the orchid mix breaks down, adding fertilizer and water with their own pH, leaving residue.

Several methods can be used to test the pH of the orchid mix, and commercial growers typically test the pH every few weeks. One method is the “pour-thru” method, which involves pouring RO water through a plant an hour after watering, then testing the “leachate” using a pH test strip. This method is simple, accurate, and low-cost, making it a valuable tool for orchid hobbyists.

What should you not do with an orchid?
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What should you not do with an orchid?

Orchids are the largest and most diverse flowering plant family, with over 880 genera and 22, 000 species. They are typically tropical plants, living as epiphytes or “air plants” hanging on trees for support. Some are lithophytes or “rock plants” growing on or among rocks, while the remaining orchids are terrestrials growing in the loamy detritus of the jungle floor.

To give general guidelines on orchid care, there are only several dozen species widely produced and even fewer available at local nursery. Hybrids, created by crossing different species and genera, are often sold at nurseries, florists, hardware chain stores, and groceries. These hybrids have desirable characteristics such as color, fragrance, flower size, and ease of care, outperforming the challenges of pure orchid species. Today’s orchid hybrids are rewarding house plants to grow and relatively easy to care for if understanding their basic needs is taken.


📹 Orchid Care for Beginners – What to do after Phalaenopsis blooms fall? Cutting spike & aftercare

Today we continue our Orchid Care for beginners series with an important episode, which will address what you should do after …


Are Orchid Blossoms Waterproof?
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19 comments

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  • Dry/wet cycles probably play a major roll in stimulating root grow at least with Phalaenopsis and I started to notice it like two years ago, when I had a Phal that was away from the majority of the rest of my Phals, hence I kept forgetting to watering it, however, that plant showed more root grow that the ones that kept more moist. Now, I only water them (healthy ones) when not only the roots, but even the medium is completely dry and I believe they’ve been growing more roots since that little habit change. Probably this is due when water is not constantly available to the roots, they tend to grow more to look for more water or absorb more when more water is available. Also I do not leave the medium dry for more than two days. Thank you!

  • Hi Orchid girl: I received an orchid from Grocery Store–A gift from a friend actually. –Phalaenopsis. I am so new with orchids. I took it out of the pot and the roots were covered in this spongy mossy type stuff which looked like it was ruining the roots. I took as much of that stuff off as possible. Some would not come off because the roots really stuck to it. I took some lava rocks that I got from a neighbor and a clay pot with holes on the side and bottom. I watered it first with tap water. and placed them in the sunniest window I could find but not too sunny where they would burn. I have been able to put it out side and get some nice sun and warmth (70-80F) . I have drenched/soaked it a couple of times as well in Distilled water (2-3 days apart). I have been checking the roots and they seem to be going through a dying phase because they look dry and shriveled and some browning. I trimmed away the roots that look dead. Still using the Lava rock. Wondering what I am doing wrong. The remaining roots feel hardened and stiff and greenish to pale white. Are the roots drying out too fast? Should I drench and soak more often like everyday? Should I switch to pea size gravel? I do see another flower spike climbing up along the side of leaves. Don’t want to lose anymore roots (barely has any now…) Don’t want to lose spike. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Much. Mark

  • Danny the only thing that crosses my mind about the plants that grow better or flower better when they stay on the dry side is that they are responding to patterns in the weather of the place in nature where they grow… like when some flower when the days are longer and get more light or when some do the vegetative growing on the rainy season.

  • Hi Danny! I love your website and i try to go back to your old articles to see how i can go about my dendrobium and phals. My phals are doing great but my dendrobium is completely sick. I purchased my dendrobium from the shopping mall here in the Philippines by the way. and it is suffering from root rot. i repotted it and followed your instruction and nothing of the roots are salvageable… but the biggest cane has 6 leaves and the smaller cane has only 1 leaf left… i cut the flower spikes as you mentioned. however, it is definitely rootless… i keep it in a transparent pot with moss on top and spray it a little and i did spray on the leaves a little hoping ti would help… i noticed that the lower leaves are starting to turn yellow which is inevitable.. but how long do you suppose it will take for it to create new rootS? my biggest concern is for it to grow roots and start having a normal dendro life… it’s been a month with me since I got it from the shopping mall by the way since i remove the rotted roots

  • Hello, and thanks for so many amazing articles! I startet collecting phalanopsis orchids this summer, because my hubby who has pollen allergy do tolerate them, so I love my new found allowed flowers 😉 I have some questions I hope you can help ansver. This winter I lost 6 of them to what I believe is stem rot. Super sad about it, and Im not sure why. I live in cold dry climate (northern Norway). I also have one oncidium, its in an self watering pot, first it was in old spagnum moss, but I repoted it in bark instead, because of I think it is too cold for being constant wet? I temperate the water before watering. Its not plump the sutabulbs, they are “dry”, always been like this. Maybe because winter climate is so cold here, it is always condensation inside pots after watering. Room temperature inside is ca 18-23 C (night and day) winter time. Still winter in northern Norway until april/may.. 😉 Thanks!

  • Do you fertilize orchids that are potted in sphagnum moss Danny? In my recollection I think that the bottom line was that the moss would hold on to the nutrients resulting in salts building up. If this is the case, how are nutrients provided to the plant? I asked this in a comment on the article where you repotted your dehydrated phalaenopsis and I’ve checked it off and on, but now my comment/question is just gone (?). You’ve mentioned your orchids that prefer moss – how do you feed them? Can you include this topic in a Q&A please. It would really help.

  • interesting i have recently needed to make sure my psychopsis dries it’s roots completely so it doesn’t create any infection. It was a learning experience for me because psychopsis have the oncidium and cattleya habits. i know its technically considered an oncidium but its roots and how they reac for me i would say are more inherited from cattleya type characteristics.

  • I have a question about self watering set ups. I’ve switched one Phal to self watering with leca. Do you leave water to wick constantly or do so many days wet and then so many dry? I know my conditions are different so an exact answer is impossible. Just trying to get an idea on how to properly set this up with as little damage as possible.

  • Hello Danny I’m a newbie in orchids. One difficult phal (poor roots) develops moldy patches in areas of the pine bark pieces at the very bottom of the transparent vase. It has enough air and the bark is fresh but.. how can I repot it every week to take out the moldy bits? Should it get some proper earthy mixture too? The other phals seem to be coping ok (all on kitchen window, warmish and bright)

  • Hi Danny, I have an orchid, wich I can not properly identify. The tag says it is a Vuylstekeara ‘massai red’, but I found too much match for it and each of them is a different one. Can it be some type of colmanara or “cambria”? It is sooo confusing. 😀 How water-lover can it be? Accordig to your opinion and experience wolud be okay for it a constant moist, but airy enviroment (like the semi-hydro)? I thinking to switch it to semi-hydro setup. It semms the lica as bare medium a bit too dry for it, bit i would stay with the inorganic medium.

  • Hi please can you advise. My Phal has almost finished blooming but Im getting a new spike. However, it is planted in a plastic terracotta pot and I havent repotted it yet due to blooming and now the new spike, so would the plug still be ok to leave it in for the next few months. I’ve killed a few plants lately, possibly due to the place where they were bought where they were watered automatically from above. I dont want to lose this one, which looks healthy for now????🙏

  • Hi Danny. I have a zygopedalum that came very healthy with 3 bulbs with 1 mature with bulb and a flower spike in full bloom so I didn’t repot it yet. It’s done blooming but it is PACKED with moss like a rock. I know I’m going to have to use tweezers to remove it but my question is… Can I repot it in leca in a sw pot like I have everything else. I’m in the states. I have artificial lights set up over it bc my natural light just isn’t enough. Also I have a Charles Fitch that was also extremely packed in moss so I repoted it leca but it’s burning tips and droopy leaves. It was very healthy with great roots and 1 mature growth. Is it just trying to adjust to its new experiment and leca and sw or is it in trouble, should I repot it in an organic media? Thanks, Rowan

  • Hi, thank you for this article. I have a question: I have a mini white phalenopsis, very strong with many roots. She produced a basal keiki which grew 3 flower spikes with 30 buds. The buds are opening but the flowers dry out after a few days and I see some bud blast too. The upper leaf of the mother plant fell off, maybe crown rot, but I managed to stop it thanks to your instructions. In the whole the plant is healthy but do you think that the flowers are blasting because it’s too much of an effort for the keiki to support them ? Thanks a lot

  • hey, did you ever try large grade kanuma as a media? I was wondering because it works wonders with my pleiones, and more surprisingly paphs (which are supposed to like neutral or slightly basic soils while kanuma is alledgedly acidic), but those are mostly lithophytic or terrestrial, so I was wondering if it would work with more epiphytic plants such as oncidiums…

  • Hi Danny,I have an ongoing problem with phalaenopsis orchids-crown rot. It will start with one bottom leave separating,which is happening and is normal. And then the pot leaves coming off and i can see that the stem inside is soft and orchid falling apart quickly after that.The roots ate looking good and there is no outside signs that something is wrong with the plant. I lost a lot of orchids in the same way exactly!Please advise if it can be prevented or if there is anything you can do to save the orchid? Those where mostly new orchids,recently bought,so may be it started happening before i bought it. I’m checking all the orchids before buying,so if there is something i should be paying attention to when buying orchids?

  • I live in Pennsylvania, USA. I have rescued 4 Phal. orchids and re-potted with a bark mix. One pair was tightly packed in Spag. moss which was showing signs of rot. I have added grow lights. My fear is that they are not getting the heat needed to coax them into flowering. My home is cool 68 degrees F. I was wondering, would a heating pad help them keep the pots warmer?

  • Hello Danny, I have a phalaenopsis which was in bloom and perfect roots. It started to grow a new leaf and that was perfect. But since the las flower fell of the spike, I waited two weeks to see if the spike drys but didnt get yellow so I cut it below the first bloom to see if I could get another bloom. Sadly nothing happens but the new leaf stopped to, and it didnt grow any more and it became completely dry. Should I remove all the spike that it still green? Is this normal on Phalaenopsis? The roots are perfect and the spike stills green bur the new leaf died.

  • Hi MissOrchidGirl! I have a mini phal (I think it is a mini phal although it was labeled as a phal because it is a phalaenopsis the size of my palm ) in my ICU unit with 1 small root the size of 1 cm in sphagnum moss(loose with lots of air pickets ) (it had terrible root rot when I got it as it was tightly packed in sphagnum moss). However, whenever I water it (from the top with a watering can type of thing), the sphagnum seems to compact. This leads to me having to fluff the sphagnum after every watering. Is there any ways I can avoid this?

  • Hi, I’m rather new to this hobby and still experiencing with set-ups and trying to find out what goes best with my environment and your articles have been very helpful. That being said, while surfing the world wide web, I came across the “tea bag” method of promoting root growth in orchids. It implies re-hydrating the rootless plant by soaking it in a mixture of tea and distilled water so that the tannin acid in the mixture can make new roots sprout faster. Is this something you have ever considered trying or experimenting? I saw many comments where people praised this method, but I’m not chemistry/biology savvy enough to guess if the good results they are claiming are due to the treatment or simply due to the fact that the moisture and natural growing cycle of the plant promoted new roots.